I'm trying to get my 1980 Scout II back on the road. I've got to get it cranking first, but that's a different issue. It runs fine if bump started, but the starter's not turning. My question(s) are on the brakes. I've had this truck since high school (Nov. '95, I think?), and the rear brakes have never gotten any pressure. The lines are clean, but no pressure. Second issue: shortly before I stopped driving it, the brakes started failing. If you pressed the petal hard, everything worked normally. If you stopped on in incline and had to hold it there, though, the petal would slowly leak down until it bottomed out, and the truck would start to roll. Also, if you pressed the petal slowly while you were moving, it would go all the way to the floor without slowing the truck. See why I stopped driving it?:p

I was told by another group a year or so ago that I needed to replace the master cylinder. Would that most likely solve both of these problems? Are there any other parts I should replace while I'm under there? Also, is the stock system a good system, or would this be a good time to upgrade? I've replaced the wheel cylinders and shoes in the back and the pads and a rotor up front, but I've never messed with any part of the brake system under the hood.


Edited to add the required pic:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/Red_Sc/Guns/308scout2.jpg

listen to the other group, look on your floorboard for brake fluid stains..

Ditto. Seems pretty straight forward. You have a 26 year old part, maybe it is time for some routine up keep..... :shaking:

The Master cylinder is very cheap, I think mine was like $22 including the core.

Thanks, since I don't know much about the brake system, I wanted to check before I just started buying parts. I was surprised when I called to check the price of the MC- I expected it to be a lot more.

Have you ever installed a MC? If not you must "bench bleed it". There are several ways to do this so do yourself a favor and do some searching on the BB before jumping in there and then wondering why your brakes are so mushy.

Have you ever installed a MC? If not you must "bench bleed it". There are several ways to do this so do yourself a favor and do some searching on the BB before jumping in there and then wondering why your brakes are so mushy.


and do yourself a favor and buy a manual so your not guessing anymore..

Have you ever installed a MC? If not you must "bench bleed it". There are several ways to do this so do yourself a favor and do some searching on the BB before jumping in there and then wondering why your brakes are so mushy.

No dis, as I know you help Jeff, but I'm sure he does not have antilock brakes. Slap it on there and start bleeding at the pass. rear, then driver rear moving up to the pass front and drivers front bleeding the brakes. Stick a rubber hose on the bleeder valve and put into a jar and pump until the fluid come out clear, since you’re going to buy a QT of brake fluid you will have plenty.

No dis to you Craig, but you need to bench bleed a MC before you slap in on the truck and bleed the rest of the system.

Any takers on how long before an argument about bench bleeding breaks out? :p

Seriously, bench bleed the MC, it makes bleeding the rest of the system 100 x easier

Yeah, they dont put that little piece of paper in the MC box with bench bleeding instructions on it for fun. I did not bench bleed once and it took 2 days and about a gallon of fluid to get all the air out.

No dis to you Craig, but you need to bench bleed a MC before you slap in on the truck and bleed the rest of the system.

not mandatory but helps, I kinda like to flush the system and it kinda ensures ya do that way.

Makes chasing air in the lines a lot easier ;)

Hey, I wanna jump on the noobie bandwagon with the thread that I am kinda surprised is still here and I am not brave enough to start a new thread so..

Someone got a pic on how the bikini top mounts to a S2? Is it a rail like a jeep?

Someone got a pic on how the bikini top mounts to a S2? Is it a rail like a jeep?

no pics, but on the front it's just the piece with the slit in it that the top goes into (5 screws to hold on), and the rear is just two U-shapes pieces that screw down onto the quarter to hold the straps.

yep, just like a jeep then. Fabbin a rear roll bar hoop right now, time to take the top off!

No dis, as I know you help Jeff, but I'm sure he does not have antilock brakes. Slap it on there and start bleeding at the pass. rear, then driver rear moving up to the pass front and drivers front bleeding the brakes. Stick a rubber hose on the bleeder valve and put into a jar and pump until the fluid come out clear, since you’re going to buy a QT of brake fluid you will have plenty.
Your absoluety correct, you do not HAVE to bench bleed the MC. However this is obviously a kid that has not done much under the hood and I felt inclinded to try to ease his pain some. Also why push air though the whole system instead of just bleeding it out at the sourc?. I still bench bleed my MC's as it is the proper instalation method. Just the way I do them and my .02
Edit: I also wanted to add that just because I help Jeff in NO WAY means that I know everything at all. One of the biggest bennifets of having a great freind like Jeff is he is always teaching me something. That is also a great thing about this board the wealth of info and knowledge is stagering. Craig I in no way took any disrepect from your comments.

Thanks all. I put the MC on Saturday, but had to order a starter, so I can't proceed until I get that put in tonight. Thanks for the tips on bench bleeding, I'd already come across that in my reading. I asked at Advance Auto for the tubes to bleed it with. They ended up calling the 'experienced' guy from the back, who looked around and said he didn't have any, but said I didn't really need them. He said he did the same thing, but didn't use the tubes, just let the fluid run out. I did that, but still don't feel great about having all the air out. I'll check at another auto parts store, and if they don't have the tubes, I may have to just bleed the rest out like normal.

Thanks all. I put the MC on Saturday, but had to order a starter, so I can't proceed until I get that put in tonight. Thanks for the tips on bench bleeding, I'd already come across that in my reading. I asked at Advance Auto for the tubes to bleed it with. They ended up calling the 'experienced' guy from the back, who looked around and said he didn't have any, but said I didn't really need them. He said he did the same thing, but didn't use the tubes, just let the fluid run out. I did that, but still don't feel great about having all the air out. I'll check at another auto parts store, and if they don't have the tubes, I may have to just bleed the rest out like normal.

IIRC, they might have the bench-bleed kit under the "HELP" area. Just some plastic fittings and a little hose that you run back into the m/c.

Yeah, they dont put that little piece of paper in the MC box with bench bleeding instructions on it for fun. I did not bench bleed once and it took 2 days and about a gallon of fluid to get all the air out.


Damm, I'm screwed now. I said something and now my luck will now run out! I can see it now, I will bench bleed the M/C, and then drizzle a little brake fluid on some painted area I care about. :shaking: Or skip the process and have to use a gallon of brake fluid. Fawk, I might as well buy a power bleed tool now as I'm going to need it next time I change a M/C.
Does making sure fluid comes out before connecting the lines count.:D

Yeah, they dont put that little piece of paper in the MC box with bench bleeding instructions on it for fun. I did not bench bleed once and it took 2 days and about a gallon of fluid to get all the air out.


Damm, I'm screwed now. I said something and now my luck will now run out! I can see it now, I will bench bleed the M/C, and then drizzle a little brake fluid on some painted area I care about. :shaking: Or skip the process and have to use a gallon of brake fluid. Fawk, I might as well buy a power bleed tool now as I'm going to need it next time I change a M/C.
Does making sure fluid comes out before connecting the lines count.:D

you can also use the plastic plugs that come in the master cylinder, with threads. tighten them in the holes and bench bleed until no more air bubbles up in the reservoir. thats the new way to do it.

you can also use the plastic plugs that come in the master cylinder, with threads. tighten them in the holes and bench bleed until no more air bubbles up in the reservoir. thats the new way to do it.

What, is it double day? :D

you can also use the plastic plugs that come in the master cylinder, with threads. tighten them in the holes and bench bleed until no more air bubbles up in the reservoir. thats the new way to do it.

Hah, now you tell me. I put the new starter and battery in it yesterday and fired it up. The brakes feel as good as they ever have. I haven't checked to see if the rear brakes are working now, and have to put in the order for the manual. Still, just having it running and STOPPING made me go :D