View Full Version : Thickest HOT oil..?
Fordtrucks
04-29-2006, 01:05 PM
I have a 466 that has bad berrings.With a highvolume oily pump at 1000 RPM at 190 degrees it has about 10 pounds with lucus oil stabilizer ONLY.
The lucus is thick when cold and provides almost 20 pounds of pressure but thins out when warm.Is there a thicker oil out there I can use?
Diesel oil?
Hydrolic oil?
Anything? I dont want to hurt the rest of the engine due to the oil I use but want somethin that will get me by a lil better than what i have now til I can fix the problem.
Thanks all..
Will.
bronco23
04-29-2006, 01:08 PM
gear oil :)
Simply dont run the engine. Just put straight 30wt in it if all you plan on doing is moving it around the yard. DO NOT DRIVE IT on the street. You tempt throwing a rod if you continue. But then I suppose you know this. eh, whatever.........
BUZZISCRAZY2
04-29-2006, 01:38 PM
Umm......New bearing will prolly work ok too.:rolleyes:
Or try 50 wt.
:jester:
Fordtrucks
04-29-2006, 01:45 PM
Someone above said gear oily...How do you think 80/90 would work?I have to get this to drive for a while til i can pull the engine and fix it.The rods are still ok but its the mains that are bad.Would 80/90 work? Does it stay thick when warm?
I am serious guys so please help in a serious way.Thanks.
BUZZISCRAZY2
04-29-2006, 02:28 PM
Yep, ran 80-90 and STP combo in a torino wif a cleveland with a Bad rod knock:eek: Kept it quieterr.........:smokin:
I hope this is not your DD:laughing: :laughing:
If it is, buy a beater. Keep the Ford alive:D
Buzz :jester:
bremen242
04-29-2006, 02:30 PM
I've ran 20W-50 in my 300 when the bearings were going south. kinda rough in the winter, but worked good in the summer.. truck is still running..
Stoked
04-29-2006, 03:06 PM
id just bite the bullet and park it till it can be fixed, or you WILL have more of a problem on your hands, the rest of the motor probably wont be happy at all about running any kind of gear oil. just depends, do you want to replace a few bearings now or a long block later?
I think you would be hurting something else running 80/90 gear oil.
it isnt gonna want to travel like engine oil.
real stressful on the oil pump drive at the very least
Fordtrucks
04-29-2006, 04:51 PM
Well I have been running the straight lucus now for a while and it hasnt gotten any worse since i first started using it but i want to get it a little better.Its not my DD or wheelin rig but does still need to make a 50 mile trip doun the highway at 2000 RPM for an hour and a half.I just need somethin to get me by for a while.Do you think the 80/90 would hurt it? Or would it be ok for a while? I do plan to replace the oily pump cam berrings aswell as the rodds and mains when i do the overhaul on the bottom end.
EDIT= maybe I could drain 2 quarts of my lucus out and add 2 quarts of the 80/90 and mix them so its not as thick as straight 80/90 but thicker than now..Wacha think??
Thanks all.
ddestruel
04-29-2006, 05:21 PM
when the mains wear out you will start getting the crank walking in there if it is so loose that straight 30 or straight 50wt arent able to keep the pressure up i wouldnt be asking that motor to do much. i recently just tore down a 396 that the previous owner had tried something similar to "get him by" since a bearing or two was going so he thought since the oil pressure was so low ect ect ect. instead what we found in the tear down was a piggy backed bearng and a crank that had ground itself into the block. No amount of line boring could have fxed the block nor the crank. also the heavier oils like gear lube and lucas leave a hell of a varnish inside that block that is a real pain to clean for a rebuild...
just a thought but if those mains are that wore out i would be willing to bet regardless of how thick an oil you throw at it you are a hair shy of spinning a beariog if you havent already and then the damage to the main cap (s) or bloack may be irrepairable
Fordtrucks
04-29-2006, 05:29 PM
Its a NEW 460.The machine shop that ground the crank said to keep the crank inside the bag til it went into the block.I did.They never cleaned the crank journals out and during the first few hundred miles it ruined the berrings.I pulled the pan and replaced the rod berrings but could not do the mains.I thought maybe a thicker oil would help for a while.
mooktank
04-29-2006, 10:27 PM
If it's new, why are you risking losing all that investment of a new engine by running gear oil in it???
JoeBlow
04-30-2006, 12:21 AM
if it is a new engine(gone over by a machine shop) I would be talking to the machinist and asking him why this happened.
BUZZISCRAZY2
04-30-2006, 06:31 AM
if it is a new engine(gone over by a machine shop) I would be sicking it up the machinists Ass.
Edited..........:D
Now ya tell me it's a Fresh motor, See how ya are:rolleyes:
As dude said, you'll be fu@king it up.........no matter What you put in there:eek: Don't do it mon, it's not a cheby:laughing: Seriously..........
Buzz :jester:
Fordtrucks
04-30-2006, 09:00 AM
The machinist is 1300 miles away in another state.Tacoma Washington.
BUZZISCRAZY2
04-30-2006, 09:05 AM
The machinist is 1300 miles away in another state.Tacoma Washington.
Buy a beater, and Try to find a "reputable" machinist in your area to handle your needs. Not always easy to find Quality machinists:( It took me years and alot of money.
:jester:
NetBSD
04-30-2006, 09:29 AM
my 400 is the same way, bad main bearings so i have 0 oil presure at idle, i run 20w50 with about 2oz of ATF to help my valve seals that are shot aswell and some lucus, still have 0 oil presure at runniung temp idle but when i get on it or keep the RPM's steady i have normal presure. your best bet is to just redo the bearings before it kills them, the 400 is known for bad oil presure so i didnt really care about it and have been running mine for over a year like this
BUZZISCRAZY2
04-30-2006, 09:58 AM
^^^:shaking: :rolleyes: He said 460 !!! Everyone is aware of 351m-400
And this is his DD, Not a toy:rasta:
:jester:
NetBSD
04-30-2006, 10:08 AM
^^^:shaking: :rolleyes: He said 460 !!! Everyone is aware of 351m-400
And this is his DD, Not a toy:rasta:
:jester:
did i say he had a 400? no i told him what W oil i use and that i use ATF to help seals, my rig is also a DD but what does that have to do with anything?
bobbywalter
04-30-2006, 10:16 AM
Its a NEW 460.The machine shop that ground the crank said to keep the crank inside the bag til it went into the block.I did.They never cleaned the crank journals out and during the first few hundred miles it ruined the berrings..
well, i can see where you would not have checked the holes with air, but if they relent to this, i can not see why they did not immediatly send you a crank kit to rectify the situation with a 10 visit pass to the chicken ranch to shut you up.
I pulled the pan and replaced the rod berrings but could not do the mains.I thought maybe a thicker oil would help for a while.
well, shame on you should have been applicable in the first quote, but you get the boot in your ass with this one.
why could you not replace the mains????? in any case you may have got away with a crank kit if you did it immediatly after the pressure dropped. it would have been worth pulling the tranny and jacking the motor up. but you have to start over or the cam and shit is gonna kill you now.
were you running straight 50 and then went to lucas? the lucas straight is a bad idea, 90 wt is doom, even synthetic, its not for combustion..i have done this in the past but it was on shit i knew i was throwing away.
try straight 50 and then start looking for a block. hell a good used engine probably be best at this point over a beater...700 bux and a saturday. you gat half that in the rod bearing replacement and oil experiments.
it is up to the assembler to clean the parts.
the machine shop owes him nothing if he didn't clean the parts before assembly.
the crank has to come out, you are nuts to run it.
Lucas stabilizer is thick like cold honey, I havent seen any oil thicker.
LeviGarrett76
04-30-2006, 01:07 PM
buy 6 quarts of "motor honey" or "smoke away", haha it will take you about an hour to dump it in
seriously, if this is a fresh build....why chance ruining it
Fordtrucks
04-30-2006, 01:53 PM
I built the engine 2 years ago in WA state.It then sat for almost a year before i got here to SD and got it put in.Then for the past year i have been running it like this.It hasnt got any worse but i was hoping to make it a lil better til i get it fixed correctly.This engine will still spin 6000RPM and i have done it.ITs not that bad but there is a slight ticking from the rockers when its warmed and if i hold the carb at a 2k idel there is a slight raddel in the mains.The lucus it thick yes but when its warm its not verry thick at all just STICKY as all hell.I do planning on grinding the crank and installing new berrings and cam berrings aswell.Its in my mud olaying truck and has a decent cam in it.NOT a DD.I dont go playing with it right now but still need to be able to run it sometimes a little.
Thanks for the replies.
Also like i said above the machine shop (cope brothers) said to leave it in the bag till install time and said nothing about cleaning the journals.Both shops here in toun do that for you.Maybe it was my fault but its to late now huh...
ddestruel
04-30-2006, 10:51 PM
bet youll find some piston skirt shavings when you open her up lucas is for a loose motor not for a fresh one
Fordtrucks
05-01-2006, 10:12 AM
Well thanks for your comment However if you read the lucus oily bottle it does say for NEW and used engines.It is verry sticky and helps the oil stick to the engine parts to help prevent drystart.
Dustball
05-01-2006, 11:58 AM
Well thanks for your comment However if you read the lucus oily bottle it does say for NEW and used engines.It is verry sticky and helps the oil stick to the engine parts to help prevent drystart.
It's for new and used engines when MIXED WITH OIL! Not running it straight.
TubaMan
05-01-2006, 02:18 PM
I thought you weren't supposed to run lucas straight. I used to run a gallon of lucas in the Tractor Trailer i used to drive ( 12.7L Detroit) to keep it from smokin too bad. Then again, that gallon of lucas was mixed with 10 gallons of oil :)
-Jeff
bremen242
05-01-2006, 04:23 PM
bet youll find some piston skirt shavings when you open her up lucas is for a loose motor not for a fresh one
there will probably be a lot of nifty shaving in there.. :shaking:
ddestruel
05-01-2006, 06:04 PM
Well thanks for your comment However if you read the lucus oily bottle it does say for NEW and used engines.It is verry sticky and helps the oil stick to the engine parts to help prevent drystart.
Let me re-phase what i said. "bet youll find some piston skirt shavings when you open her up lucas [in high concentrations] is for a loose motor not for a fresh one."
Though the clearances at your bearings may be loose those at your pistons ect are nt as well your rod bearings are now tight once again. thick oil cannot get into and out of tight areas so in the case of your rods the thick oil is floating the bearing but is not getting past the bearing so there is less cycling past .... less cooling and lubrication because if the oil stays int he same spot for too long it will break down. in the case of your pistons the lucas is so thick that i doubt much has gotten in between and cooled/lubricated the cylinder walls. this is why newer motors with tight psiton to cylinder wall clearances and tight bearings call for thinner oils. What you are subjecting your motor to is the same things as starting it in -30 below weather with 20/50 or straight 50w. 99% of engine wear occurs at start up and in the case of thicker oils they provide minimal lubrication until they warm up and start to slip into tight places....... enjoy the shavings you can think what you want regardless you are in for a full rebuild.
Oh yeah on ANY Engine you put together you should clean out all oil passages, including those in the crank before assembly. engine shops tell you to keep it in the bag till assembly to minimize exposure to the elements... moisture, oils/acids from your skin ect, but you are still supposed to clean everything right before assembly to assure a clean startup. If the machine shop didnt do the assembly and you ate the bearings i cant think of a single shop that would cover that. now if the bearing tolerances were too tight or cylinders were bored for cast pistons vs forged then you would have reason to gripe but right now you are making a bad situation irrepairable and costing yourself more money.
plus what are oild changes costing you for that thing id just park it but then again what do i know
bobbywalter
05-01-2006, 07:24 PM
if it makes you feel any better, i knew what you meant with the first post:grinpimp:
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