I'm running in circles now.
I put the 231 together bench test it and it seems to be binding a little. I can get it to shift into 4low but then the input and out put is completely bound up and won't turn.

I did a search but found other shifting issues where the tcase wouldn't go into 2wd.

Any idea what the hell is going on?
did I maybe put the syncro cluster in backwards?
I"m pretty sure I didn't put the ring in backwards.

I can get it to shift fine with out binding up at all with the back half of the case off. I also have cut off the excess shift rod that is some times required.

Problem only happens when the case is put together and the rear yoke is tightened down:(

I did not hafta shorten my shift rail. According to the instructions .5" is the most you'd ever hafta take off. Only 1" should protrude in 4lo. Make sure that is all that protrudes.

The housing that came with mine had a hole for the vacuum actuation on cherokee models. The hole is right behind the shift rail on the output housing. A screw in plug is used on wrangler models to plug this hole. This screw in plug also uses a white plastic washer that is nearly 1/8" thick. Make sure you have this washer installed. If you don't then you won't be able to get it into 4lo.

It sounds like you put the Synchro sleeve in backwards. It's the piece that slips over the mainshaft that gets moved back and forth by the mode fork. If you look at the Synchro sleeve from the side it will have a wide edge and a thin edge to it, even though it can slide on the main shaft either way. The Synchro Sleeve must have the wide edge facing the inside of the case. The thiner edge must be facing out towards you when your looking at it.

So pop off the rear yoke, the rear retainer you just got done siliconing in place pull the chain gears and shaft, and verify that the Sychro sleeve is in correctly, if is backwards, your T/ case will do exactly what your describing. So flip it, button it back up and bench test it.

Sorry, just reread you pust and my response won't help you a bit since you do say you can get it into 4lo.

Originally posted by swampintj
It sounds like you put the Synchro sleeve in backwards. It's the piece that slips over the mainshaft that gets moved back and forth by the mode fork. If you look at the Synchro sleeve from the side it will have a wide edge and a thin edge to it, even though it can slide on the main shaft either way. The Synchro Sleeve must have the wide edge facing the inside of the case. The thiner edge must be facing out towards you when your looking at it.

So pop off the rear yoke, the rear retainer you just got done siliconing in place pull the chain gears and shaft, and verify that the Sychro sleeve is in correctly, if is backwards, your T/ case will do exactly what your describing. So flip it, button it back up and bench test it.


Thats not it I made sure the ring was in correct.

I'm wondering if something might be biding with the planetary section.

It's a new day and I think I can take a nother unfrusterated look at it tonight when I get home tonight.

sounds like maybe your shift range fork, shift mode fork, or shift selector may be tweeked or out of alignment. that would definitely cause bind in your t-case and stop it from shifting. when I did my SYE last week I had trouble getting the main shafts in until I saw that the shift lever node had flopped out of the shift selector. Open it up again and make sure everything is in place.

good luck

so did this problem ever get solved?

Is the oiler installed correctly? Remember it fits inbetween the rear half and the new tail section. I have seen people try to put it inside the rear half and you get bind when you crank down the bolts. Hope this helps.

Here are some things to check;
The easiest is the check already mentioned regarding the threaded plug.
Also, I have seen people install the pump below the rear case half and this is incorrect.
The last thing is something you may not have noticed. There is a large oil port drilled into the large end of the shaft where the range sleeve slides. If the oil hole is not deburred when the shaft is produced the range sleeve will stick in the area that it would normally be located in while in 4Lo. If this is the case you would need to remove the shaft and debur the edge of the hole.

I am betting on the pump installed on the wrong side of the rear case as prevoiusly mentioned because I did that and had the exact problems you initially described..

Holy ancient threads, batman! Noobs, when you do a search, don't reply to threads from over a year and a half ago asking if it's fixed yet!

hahahahaha! I think that transfer case is long gone!!!

That t-case is in his Mom's YJ, and gets driven often:D

I have no idea what the problem was, but I can't belive that someone pulled this thread out of the spiderwebs to see if it was fixed:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Ah, I thought Todd sold the whole XJ a while back :) I think the case was the one with the 4:1 kit

Gui

gui im picking up todds red xj tonite:p yep number 6 is coming home:eek:

Oh Geez.

This thread is so last year:flipoff2:
Except for the part about the cherokee getting picked up tonight.

guess I'll bring this one back from the dead again.

I'm having the same problem with a 1990 231 and the AA kit. Binds, shifts bad, then gets stuck until I dissasemble and reassemble it.

What did you do to fix this?

add ATF, replace te chain. does it bind in deep snow and other loose terrain?

Originally posted by Shmitty
add ATF, replace te chain. does it bind in deep snow and other loose terrain?

replaced chain and it was assembled with atf all over the placed. havent ran it, only turned it by hand on the bench and then hooked it up to the Jeep once earlier tonight and the shifter would not come out of 2wd.

The shift rod may be contacting the inside of the pocket on the tailhousing. If there is any casting "flash" in that area the rod will not let the fork move.

Most of the time the fix for this problem is to install the oil slinger OUTSIDE the case where it belongs instead of INSIDE the case.

its outside, the hole on the tailcone for the shift rod has plenty of clearance.

Picking up a junkyard 231 tomorrow and going to see if its a fawked case or not.