Has any body here used or seen the cast iron transfer case from MAF,or know how much they want for it?
How does it compare with the billet case from Wardens, that sucker is like 1300 bones!(OUCH!!)

The reason I ask these questions?

1. I like the offset rear output of the stock t-case, it helps keep the tranny up off the rocks.

2. I have a very long drivetrain SB350, Ranger T/S, SM420, Space Ghost 3/4" adaper, late 3spd soft t-case

3. I just finished my disk break E-break swap and want to keep it!

Fire in the hole!!

I have heard that both units are very nice. With the cast case you will still have to bolt your weak aluminum input and outputs on the case, leaving you open for a problem.

With the Billet case (if you can still get it) you have a complete Billet case I think.....

I don't know how much it would cost to get the Billet bolt ons, but I do remember that Danny sells them separately.

I think that would be the best combo IF it will save a fer hundred $$

You can also use a Dana 18.

Originally posted by Cruzilla


1. I like the offset rear output of the stock t-case, it helps keep the tranny up off the rocks.



Why would offsetting the rear output keep the tranny off of the rocks??????

From what I have heard the MAF tcase is fairly strong. The wardens case is however milled for the larger gears if so desired.

If you do not have a tcase support I would highly reccomend that you get on if you go the MAF route...

I understand that the cast iron one (which by the way, was originally designed for the Bandeirante) will hold much bigger gears than stock, and even bigger than the billet. In fact, rumor has it that the supplier for the cast iron one is having 4:1 gears made for the cast iron one...think about that! :)

By haveing bolth outputs low on the same plane you are able to keep the transmission high up in the frame and still have good driveline angles, so all that hangs down is the lower part of the transfer case.
Now if you had an Atlas or some other t-case you could clock mite work, but that would require swaping to a center diff rear and then you would have to lower your tranny to get your angles.

Now that is sounding like a good idea! Cast iron and lower gears!!
So what does it cost?

Originally posted by Cruzilla
By haveing bolth outputs low on the same plane you are able to keep the transmission high up in the frame and still have good driveline angles, so all that hangs down is the lower part of the transfer case.
Now if you had an Atlas or some other t-case you could clock mite work, but that would require swaping to a center diff rear and then you would have to lower your tranny to get your angles.

Maybe I am being dense here but why does that keep the tcase out of the rocks? I can see the DS being in the same plane and that is a good thing. But most offset tcases are dropped on one side anyway... So they are still going to get hung up on rocks..

So either you have both driveshafts on the same side that hang down low
Clock the dual passenger rear output so that the tranny is not the lowest part of the belly.
Run a centered rear output that hangs down on only one side
or run a centered rear output with the tranny clocked so that both ds are on the same plane and nothing hangs down..

Or am I just wrong here
:confused:

What I am saying is that by having bolth drivelines off the same plane you can keep the rest of the drivetrain higher or more level. With a short rear driveline and a high center output on say a GM205 t-case, you would have to point your transfer case at a steep angle to achieve good driveline angles, and as a result you would have your front transfer portion of the t-case digging into all kinds of stuff(hanging real low) This would be ok if your rig was springover but not in my case.

all of these options have one thing in comon

a .500 front out put shaft.

so I wouldnt spend any money on the case.....

Has anyone thought about building a new front output shaft for the cruiser's? At this point I think it would be good so those of us with (and want to stay with) the Cruiser tcase we would have all
options covered to have a very strong unit.

if i had a spare one on hand i would have my uncle make one outta some high-tech crap. he owns a machine shop--he could make a computer outta aluminum if he wanted:eek:

lotta maazak machines.

maybe brian has one i could borrow for measurements....

good idea--yay?, nay? :confused:

Wardens doesn't offer the full line their good for the case, front nose cone, and cove but still have the rear...I have the full deal with Marlin gears. I thought Danny made both but could be wrong....The billet is nice just wish(note to Jesse) they had a disk version of the e-brake. Had a MAF version but it sucked so bad and didn't hold that I sent it back. Everything is cool with the billet as one of the first owners its nice knowing that its behind you....

So.......... back to his original question. Does anyone know how much MAF wants for the cast iron case:question:

Dan