anyone got any good tips or a parts list for a junkyard disc brake swap for a ford 9 inch from a 78 bronco? trying to spend as little money as possible. looking to use a caliper that has the ebrake built into it.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934

I used Suzuki Sidekick rotors, Subaru front calipers and made my own brackets.

The 93 Subaru Loyale front calipers have a mechanical lever for e-brake and the Suzuki rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Ford axle and fit the Subaru calipers. When everything is all together, the bracket is just a flat piece of plate and no shimming or welding is required.

A few pics:

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7440%20(Small).JPG

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7442%20(Small).JPG

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7443%20(Small).JPG

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7444%20(Small).JPG

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7445%20(Small).JPG


Super easy to make. The brackets are only held on by the flange bolts in the pics but they will be welded to the axlehousing for maximum strength. As for the e-brake setup, take a look at a Toyota truck setup and that is what I'm going to fab up to work with the calipers.


Sean :cool:

did you use 1/4 or 3/8 thick steel for your brackets?

did you use 1/4 or 3/8 thick steel for your brackets?
I originaly wanted to make them from 3/8 but I had some 1/4" lying around so I made them from that. Because the bracket is not offset or shimmed in any way, I think it will be plenty strong. Keep in mind that this axle is going under a LWB Samurai on 35" Boggers. If It was going under a FSB with 40"+ tires I might have found some 3/8" steel plate to make them from instead.


Sean :cool:

I know you can swap the rear brakes off of a 90's crown vic on to a small bearing 9" rearend (I did it on my 67 mercury cougar), but not sure if it works on the big bearing rearend. Everything is a direct bolt on replatment except for parking brake cables. I did it for under 100 bucks.

I have heard about exporer rear disks off of 8.8's working too.

if i'm not mistaken, the explorer disk brakes are 5 on 4.5, not 5 on 5.5 that 9's are. so that conversion would require different rotors or redrilling the 8.8 rotors? please correct me if i'm wrong.

and the lincoln versailles had disks and a 9" but it was a small bearing i think.

the 8.8 explorer disks are a common swap, and great if you want to change bolt pattern, if not then you would need redrilled rotors.

Almost all 9" aftermarket kits use explorer disks

cool. i had no idea, always good to learn something new.

check my thread. next few days my super duper cheap 9 inch conversion is going to be installed.

search under the newbie jeep forum for a disc brake conversion i did on a dana 35.... besides the tech in there, im using all the same hardware, and the funnay at the end of the thread

I know you can swap the rear brakes off of a 90's crown vic on to a small bearing 9" rearend (I did it on my 67 mercury cougar), but not sure if it works on the big bearing rearend. Everything is a direct bolt on replatment except for parking brake cables. I did it for under 100 bucks.


I'll try that. My 9" came off a 68 Cougar and is 5 on 4.5. Is the Crown Vic 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5?

I'll try that. My 9" came off a 68 Cougar and is 5 on 4.5. Is the Crown Vic 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5?
5 on 4.5


Sean :cool:

I used Suzuki Sidekick rotors, Subaru front calipers and made my own brackets.

The 93 Subaru Loyale front calipers have a mechanical lever for e-brake and the Suzuki rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Ford axle and fit the Subaru calipers. When everything is all together, the bracket is just a flat piece of plate and no shimming or welding is required.

Hi Sean,

I did the same conversion in a CJ7 and I am courious to know the following:

What kind of master cylinder are you using (Could you please specify) ?
What did you do with the proportioning or combination valve??

Mario

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/tmp/586/58620.520.390

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/tmp/586/58625.520.390

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/tmp/586/58626.520.390

Off an old lincoln mark VII if (78ish) i remember correctly. The middle picture is the lincoln caliper and rotor and the right is a 81 caliper and 92 4wd rotor (front brakes from f-150s) the calipers are direct replacements for each other (the lincolns have ebrake where the trucks ones donot which could be bad), the truck rotors are slight larger in diameter (like a 1/4 i think) but the caliper brackets are a 2 piece (very strong though) setup and as such you unbolt the two halves and then use a couple 1/8 washers (grade 8 or whatever and some new bolts) to space it out, the flange that the calipe slides overr may need to be taken down with a grinder (get a budddy to sping the opposites axle, be sure the rear end is kept together, then rest a grinder on the flange and go till the caliper slides over nicely.) then bolt everything together and you're good to go other than putting in the mc you got from the car you took the brakes from.

I snagged mine for a 100 bucks, and other than rebuilding the calipers new rotors and pads and playing with the brake lines this is a fairly cheap way to do it.

Wait so lincoln calipers, ford truck front rotors, truck caliper brackets?

Hi Sean,

I did the same conversion in a CJ7 and I am courious to know the following:

What kind of master cylinder are you using (Could you please specify) ?
What did you do with the proportioning or combination valve??

Mario

Hi Mario,

The 9" is going under a Suzuki Samurai so I was going to use the master from a 4 door Sidekick. The front axle is going to be a HP Dana44 with discs so I wanted a master that would bolt up to the firewall without any modification. The 4 door Sidekicks/Trackers have bigger brakes than the 2 door models and will be able to power the D44 and 9" with the disc conversion. They will also be power assisted and apparently I might not have to run a residual valve for the rear as others have done this before and they claim it works.

Another option, ironically, is a CJ or YJ master which I am told has the same bolt pattern as the Suzuki ones. You might be OK with your stock master but you may need to plumb a residual valve into the rear circuit and if needed a proportioning valve after it. (or just a combo valve) My application is a rock buggy so I'm not too worried about a proportioning valve at all. The stock components will all be replaced in my case.

Here is a little info on how to plumb disc/disc setups.
http://www.hot-rod.com.au/builder/brakes.html


Sean :cool:

Hey Mustange70!,
I'm working on that same set up for my Bronco.
What Brake pads did you use with yours?
The Lincoln ones, or ones from the Ford F150 also like the rotors?

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/axles/9inch_rebuild/discs/IMG_7444%20(Small).JPG

Hey Toughguy, do you need me to send you some better condition 9" housings? The one in the pic looks so pitted that you should be topping off gear oil once a week....:D

:flipoff2:

Wait so lincoln calipers, ford truck front rotors, truck caliper brackets?

Almost, lincoln caliper brackets, trucks rotors and calipers (if i want too, but this is a street trucks they're going on so i want to keep the ebrake, so rebuilt lincoln calipers but you can go the other way if you want to).

Haven't got to far with this, still just a pile of parts, but if i remember right i think i can use the truck pads which is what i want to do cause they're cheap, i also will be using an inline wilwood porp. valve cause my truck is lighter in the rear than the lincoln and the lincoln p-vavle is probably setup for that so i'll need to turn down the pressure. i';; look at the parts this weekend when i go back to the farm for the weekend.

i checked tonight... the factory 78-79 F150 front dana 44 rotors fit really nice on my Moser 35 splines. ill have to make the shims, but i was surprised they cleared without grinding...

Hey Toughguy, do you need me to send you some better condition 9" housings? The one in the pic looks so pitted that you should be topping off gear oil once a week....:D

:flipoff2:

Looks like hammered paint or rhinoliner to me.

I just use some stock explorer brackets, calipers, and rotors, just redrill the rotors to the right pattern or buy them from currie. Cheap and Easy, $150 and your set with E-brake and parts are easy to find/get at most junkyards and 100% bolt on.

Hey Toughguy, do you need me to send you some better condition 9" housings? The one in the pic looks so pitted that you should be topping off gear oil once a week....:D

:flipoff2:
Yeah well this came off an '80 F150 that spent its life in Northern Ontario. We pave the roads with salt here every winter and it just eats everything. It's still solid enough though....................I hope! :eek:

Looks like hammered paint or rhinoliner to me.

Sorry TJ, that really is rust pitted. I think the black paint makes it look worse than it really is but thanks for the idea. I'll just spray-bomb it with that hammered paint and tell everybody it's supposed to look like that! :flipoff2:


Sean :cool:

I just use some stock explorer brackets, calipers, and rotors, just redrill the rotors to the right pattern or buy them from currie. Cheap and Easy, $150 and your set with E-brake and parts are easy to find/get at most junkyards and 100% bolt on.

and this went on a big bearing rear end??
if so how did you shim the bearing to stay in place???

the stock plate is like 1/8" and the explorer one is like 3/8" that is alot of play for that axle bearing to play in...

You can buy the shims from Currie or do what I did and cut up a old bearing and make your own.

Bummer you want an ebrake, I got a complete setup, non ebrake, sitting here in the shop to get rid of...

Toughguy:

You still on pbb?

Got a Q about your disc conversion.

Toughguy:

You still on pbb?

Got a Q about your disc conversion.

What you need to know?


Sean :cool:

How is the conversion working out?


I am considering rear discs on my Early Bronco.
This looks like an inexpensive way to get discs with e-brakes.

And do you want to make me some adapter plates or do you have a template?

Never in a million years would I have considered using a Subie caliper.

How is the conversion working out?


I am considering rear discs on my Early Bronco.
This looks like an inexpensive way to get discs with e-brakes.

And do you want to make me some adapter plates or do you have a template?

Never in a million years would I have considered using a Subie caliper.

Not sure, it hasn't actually been put to use yet. Other projects keep getting in the way. Theoretically, it has more than enough power to lock the wheel but if you have deep gearing and like to drag the brake for traction then it might not be powerful enough. I'm not competing so it's not a concern of mine. The emergency brake part is all manual so eat your spinach. :D

Very inexpensive. The only custom part is the adapter plate.

I live in Canada. It would cost more in shipping than the steel to make it.:shaking: Use a piece of cardboard to make your template (I used corplast, a plastic cardboard) and get someone with a plasma cutter or even a oxy/acet cutting torch to cut them out.




Sean :cool:

Hi Sean, I was wondering if you could take a pic of just the rotor, pad saddle and brake pads installed. Cause I think you might have a problem there. The diameter of the rotor is to small and the brake pads will be hanging over the edge of the rotor damn near 1/4inch.

i had to grind my caliper brackets down where they welded to the axle to make the caliper sit closer to the axle....

But you can see in his pick the pad saddle is already right up against the rotor hub. There is no way to bring the pads closer or more over the rotor.

cant see anything, work filters out the pics :(

I'm out of town on business right now so no pics available.

The Sidekick rotor is actually bigger than the Subie rotor those calipers were on. Kick wheels are 15", the Subie wheels were 13". I can tell you the pads sit perfect on the rotor.


Sean :cool:

Well I have 1990 suki sidekick rotors, and early 90's front subaru calipers, there must be a different size pad option or something.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc174/darryn7577/010.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc174/darryn7577/009.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc174/darryn7577/007.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc174/darryn7577/005.jpg

you guys make this WAY to hard.

Oops I deleted a whole bunch of pics from photobuck, including those above. Damn newbs. :D edit: fixed

I'm not sure what you mean "Making this way to hard" As soon as I get some muck in my rear drums my rear brakes don't work....at all. So I searched around a little and found a cheap disc brake swap, including E-BRAKE that someone has done and said it worked. I have to have an e-brake for inspection and this seemed to be the cheapest and easiest way to git r done.

But I ran into a snag and I am now trying to figure it out.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=419527&highlight=



read my little ditty here.

apply it to a 9 inch. its all the same parts, except go get a ford bronco/f150 rotor instead of a jeep rotor :laughing:

part numbers and everything are there.
i would use ruffstuffspecialties (gravelmaker here on the board) weld on caliper brackets. they are way more beef than the thin AA brackets.


[/end thread]

I didn't see any E-brake setup :confused:

And its not a jeep rotor :confused:

I didn't see any E-brake setup :confused:

so use a caddilac ebrake caliper... even though they are expensive and suck at holding.

get a driveline brake. that way when in 4wd, all 4 wheels are locked, not just the rear.

And its not a jeep rotor :confused:


:shaking::shaking: never mind. your on your own.

Sorry I guess you were referring to your jeep post and not the suki rotors, my bad.

But whatever dude, your not following the original post. Some of us have to have an e-brake setup on our trucks, you keep referring to a non e-brake setup. Of course a driveline brake is the shit but that won't satisfy the coppers around here. I need to be able to drive it on the street as well.

:confused: how the fawk does a driveline brake NOT satisfy the cops?
how the fawk is it NOT street legal?
use caddy calipers then.

A ton of vehicles come with factory driveline brakes, most med duty trucks with hyd brakes, 90s GM 3500hds, early jeeps, etc. I don't see how they could fail you.

For rotors use 1995 dodge ram 1500 4x4 front rotors. On my calipers i use
k3500 calipers and put them at 12 O-clock but i have to pull them off and put piece of wood between the pads when i bleed the brakes. If i did over agin i would put the bleed valve on top. Use the lug nuts to keep the rotors on bolt your calipers to the plate and slide it over the rotors and weld it up.
(that is the way i did mine and it works good with 16.5 rims.)
http://www.mymudspace.com/file/pic/gallery/70664_view.jpg
http://www.mymudspace.com/file/pic/gallery/70663_view.jpg

I really appreciate the feedback and opinions. I have searched and reviewed lots of different rear 9 disc swaps. Most of them with no e-brake. I priced out and checked around for availability on some caddy stuff but couldn't find anything. I came across this post which was a "junkyard 9 conversion" that supposedly has been done and worked. I was able to get the parts for basically no cost, but ran into this pad size issue. I am trying to figure out if there is anything I can do about this and if not I will scrap the whole idea.

I honestly haven't checked into a driveline brake setup, I haven't seen or found anyone that has done this setup on a ddriver weekend warrior. Not sure about the cost. I will check into it a little more.

hi-Angle drivelines is where i got mine. its spendy but worth it. its on my cruisers NP205.

i had one on my toyota (allpro-----really jess's d/line brake) it worked superb.

Not sure, it hasn't actually been put to use yet.

Sean :cool:

Just to let anyone who's checkin and considering this thread for a "junkyard 9" disc brake conversion" I haven't been able to find a pad size option for those subaru calipers in those years, unless someone can find someting I can't this conversion will not work.

http://www.mymudspace.com/file/pic/gallery/70663_view.jpg


are you able to get the 4 axle retainer bolts out if you need to? looks like they are permanantly blocked now....

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=419527&highlight=



read my little ditty here.

apply it to a 9 inch. its all the same parts, except go get a ford bronco/f150 rotor instead of a jeep rotor :laughing:

part numbers and everything are there.
i would use ruffstuffspecialties (gravelmaker here on the board) weld on caliper brackets. they are way more beef than the thin AA brackets.


[/end thread]

So you are saying to use these parts-


[COLOR="Red"]rotors:
Stock ford 150/bronco

calipers:
part number c135, c134. 9.99 apeice w/ core of 11 dollars
brake lines:
77227, you need 2. 11.99 each
you will need the banjo bolt that attatches the brake line to caliper... about 6 bucks.

brake bolts (pins):
h5004, you need 2 packages. 11.99 each

hard brake lines, approx 6 bucks for both
brake fluid. 5.00

and these brackets- (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/9WELD30.html)

YUP. the pads are a touch too thick, so a quick slap with a grinder on them will make em fit (in my case) or you could get the rotors turned down.

either way it worked very well. you also may have to touch the axle flange with a grinder to make the hats go over them..........


jack stands. strip axle down to shafts. put truck in gear and set grinder on the axle flange. redneck lathe :D

could you use 78-79 chevy 1/2 ton calipers too?

no. 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton's have different spacing