All pics and related info will be posted here. Start time on the project will be 8:45 MY TIME (I think its Mountain Central):beer: :nuke:

Ok, I reall didn't get started till 9:30 (had to make room in the warehouse)

but already at about 9:45 the highlift gave out on me and dropped the scout, but the TWO jackstands caught it (ALWAYS USE JACKSTANDS!!!)

Everything else has gone REALLY smoothly. The only run I had to make was to rent a torch and get some GOOD 3/8" Drill bits (the first leaf in the first spring ate TWO of the cheapies)

I have some pics and will be posting them as soon as I resize them and shiat :)

PS: Air tools are makeing short work of this project!!

Here's after it fell off the high-lift

The MT/R's are only a little bigger...hehehehe

Here I have the new bushings in the springs and the spring plates I had made are bolted on as well.

Here I've ground off the old spring perches and am setting the new ones on so I can mock it up and set my pinion angel and center the axle.

When I was grinding off the orgional drivers side spring perch, the grinder jumped and I ground RIGHT THROUGH MY BRAKE LINE:mad2: Oh well I could use some new hard line anyway.....:(

Here is AFTER I bolted in the 14bolt everything is snug and looks good.

I had a pic of the weld I layed down, but I don't have a camera that I can get close enough with and get a good pic. Which is too bad cause I layed down some sweet dimes baby!!!

DAYUM that looks like more than 3-1/2" of lift to me TSM1MT....

......I guess it must be the 1-1/2" of steel plate I used huh? :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Here's the rear, From the rear :rasta: I love the look with 37's :nuke:

SEE!! I won't need to trim the fenders, I'll just use LOOOOONG bump stops :rasta:

Just kidding, I'm just glad I have enough clearance to roll it around where I need it.

Well that's all for tonight guys. I stopped working on the rear @ 5:45 (my time again) I think I kicked ass today.

Opinions welcome (but it's a little too late to change things now :p)

PS: I didn't move the axle back like I was gonna.
:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

:smokin: , i love to see cool parts going on dented trucks:D .

nice work,you are quittin' a little early though,i'd be tempted to do an all niter.:D

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Well that's all for tonight guys. I stopped working on the rear @ 5:45 (my time again) I think I kicked ass today.

Opinions welcome (but it's a little too late to change things now :p)

PS: I didn't move the axle back like I was gonna.
:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

5:45, ain't marrige a bitch:flipoff2:

Looking good, but :question:

Are you not going to change the upper spring bushing

Don't be a hack :flipoff2:

Those things are shot, and with the new stiffer poly the old rubber bushings are going to take a beating.

I hope you did some trimming on that big fat ass lip that hangs off the bottom of that diff

jdjanda: I didn't feel like taking the time to change the UPPER shackle bushing. I know it will need to be done for sure; soon, but it can wait.

Jeenjer: Actually I was gonna work later, but I didn't have anyone to help me turn it around to work on the front, so I called it a night. I might be pulling an all nighter tonight though.

Joe V: No I didn't, I was gonna but, I don't have the time right now to tap new holes for the diff cover. So my plan for the near future is to SHAVE it A-lot. Instead of just trimming it a bit. :)

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
SEE!! I won't need to trim the fenders, I'll just use LOOOOONG bump stops :rasta:

Just kidding, I'm just glad I have enough clearance to roll it around where I need it.

It looks like the rust is already trimming the fenders for you:flipoff2:


As for the clearance on the diff...If you have a Skil saw, go buy one of those 7" metal cutting blades for it. That's what I did. Ripped right through the bottom (At an angle) and only took about 5 minutes at the most. I'll clean the rest up with a grinder once I get mine back on some wheels...

Originally posted by Scout Dude


It looks like the rust is already trimming the fenders for you:flipoff2:


As for the clearance on the diff...If you have a Skil saw, go buy one of those 7" metal cutting blades for it. That's what I did. Ripped right through the bottom (At an angle) and only took about 5 minutes at the most. I'll clean the rest up with a grinder once I get mine back on some wheels...

That's EXACTLY what I have planned. ;)

Well everything is done, except for bleeding my brakes and bolting up my driveshafts. (Which I'm gonna do here in a minute)

It wasn't easy today like yesterday, I'm tired, I'm sore, I'm dirty (and I like it!! ;) )

I did run into a problem with my steering set-up. I'll have to call scott @ rockstomper about a new draglink. :(

I'll have pics and shiat some time next week. (yes I have a digi, but I'm F'n tired!so leave me alone :flipoff2: ):beer: :beer: :beer:

PICS!!

What problem with the drag link? Are you runnng hi-steer:question:

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
PICS!!

What problem with the drag link? Are you runnng hi-steer:question:

Joe

All I have left to do now is get shocks and bleed my brakes. :bounce::bounce:

Pics my ass :flipoff2: ....hehehe

Uh, you remember those spring plates I had made to help me clear the 37's?? Well the worked really well helping me clear the tires, but I forgot about my crossover set-up. The height I gained for tires robbed me of clearance for my crossover (I'll have pics on this later) and now my drag link hits my springs on the pass side.

I'll need to call rockstomper and have a longer one made with a slight bend in it. Either in the middle or towards the end (I'm linking in the middle, this way I can reinforce the bent area *like the ROCK RODS need it*) :rolleyes:

I'm done cleaning up now and am going home. Talk to ya guys a little tommorow (I'll be out of town most of the day)

PS: HEY TERRA, I'll have those tire measurements for you by the end of the week also

LATER GUYS...I"M STOKED :D:D:D

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
DAYUM that looks like more than 3-1/2" of lift to me TSM1MT....

......I guess it must be the 1-1/2" of steel plate I used huh? :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

LOL. Did you miss the part about me using some FLAT and SHOT non-HD pre-75 leaf springs? :D

On the bump-stops.. I need to re-do mine again. Maybe come up with a permanent method of securing them. :) I spit one out yesterday and did some custom grooving to the swamper.. boy did it make it HOWL on the drive home.. ;)

Originally posted by Cliffhanger

tires, but I forgot about my crossover set-up. The height I gained for tires robbed me of clearance for my crossover (I'll have pics on this later) and now my drag link hits my springs on the pass side.


I did the same thing.

I had just enough clearance before.

Now I put the degree shims in.. and now the draglink is a hair from touching the spring at-rest.

I need to upgrade the draglink. My current TRE is a "dropped" Chevy unit. That is, the draglink comes in from the side, vs from the top/side, which costs me a half inch or so of draglink height.

I'll need to move up to a more normal TRE.

At the same time, I'm hoping to get a new pitman arm soon to raise that end and keep it away from the spring, too.

Managed to get my t'case adapter replaced this weekend. Need to put some RTV on the bolts and put 'em in n' torque it, then bolt in the Dana 20.. and I'm almost ready to race again.

after removing the origional D44

Another

and another

and another. I'm not sure how comfy I am with this, but no one else has had a problem that I'm aware of.:nuke: :beer: :beer:

and another

The entire depth of the backing plate is not that thin just towards the front, so I'm sure theres still enought steel there to hole the caliper in place securely.

FINALLY BOTH TIRES ON, after about 1-1/2hrs of grinding and fine tuning the clearance.

I'll have more/ better pics later (the digi takes shitty night pics.)

Later, I'm off to work now. :rasta:

Cliff,

What axle is that? Looks to be a chebbie as I can see the studs for the hi-steer. Before you waste more money on a new drag-link why don't you just hi-steer it, or at least run cross over? Looks fawk'n great, are you running any body lift to help clear the tires?

Joe

Man, that is one ugly Scout.:D

I love it.

Like someone said earlier. "I love it when you put new, pretty parts on dented trucks".

Originally posted by jdjanda
Cliff,

What axle is that? Looks to be a chebbie as I can see the studs for the hi-steer. Before you waste more money on a new drag-link why don't you just hi-steer it, or at least run cross over? Looks fawk'n great, are you running any body lift to help clear the tires?

Joe

it is a Chebby... but I don't have the pass side flat tops. But I do know where to get them if I need.

I don't know if the cost of getting a steering arm for the pass side and having a new rock rod made and having my flat tops drilled and taped and other misc. parts for that set-up would justify the expense vs. just geting a new rock rod bent.

I'll think about it though.

PS: I have more pics....:flipoff2:

First

Second:

Last:

Definitely looks like those front fenders need a trim job.. :D

Looking good though.

I guess I never realized just how ugly your Scout really is.. :D

At least mine is mostly one color (except where the deep gouges are..)

I'd throw in an Add a Leaf in the front. Might help with the clearance.

Joe

Go to a 2" or so lift spring in the front. Loose the block and you steering may just work fine.


Its the block thats casuing you trouble. Or loose both blocks and get out the grinder and sawz-all!!!




See, its not thats dificult... to do a SOA..... now you just need to spend the next 3 weeks tweeking and fine-tunning it to get it to drive good, not bind and safe :D :D


BTW Love the 2-different decals and patch job :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Definitely looks like those front fenders need a trim job.. :D

Looking good though.

I guess I never realized just how ugly your Scout really is.. :D

At least mine is mostly one color (except where the deep gouges are..)

hehe yeah it is ungly huh??:flipoff2:

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
Go to a 2" or so lift spring in the front. Loose the block and you steering may just work fine.


Its the block thats casuing you trouble. Or loose both blocks and get out the grinder and sawz-all!!!




See, its not thats dificult... to do a SOA..... now you just need to spend the next 3 weeks tweeking and fine-tunning it to get it to drive good, not bind and safe :D :D


BTW Love the 2-different decals and patch job :D

Hey all you guys are JEALOUS of my double style stripe scheme, so SCREW YOU ALL!!! :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I wish I could afford to use a lifted spring instead of the blocks, but first of all I don't know of anyone who makes a 1-1/4" lift spring, second I sure as hell ain't gonna pay NATIONAL to do it $$$$ :eek:

And I defintely won't be using add-a-leafs. I despise (sp) those!!:mad2: I'd rather lose the fender all together ....hmmmm...;)



PS: BEFORE

And after, notice the light above the scout. Kinda shows how much taller it is.:beer:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
And after, notice the light above the scout. Kinda shows how much taller it is.:beer:

Dang, you really kicked your front axle a long way forward??

So here's some follow-up info:

I need shock, RS9000's that won't be for awhile though, since the tires tapped me out :(

I know I need new front shackles (the bolt holes in them were ovaled out) I welded them up and drilled out new holes. It'll work for now.

I need a new drag link or, considering the hy-steer, because if I went that way I guess I wouldn't need a new drag link....hmm.....we'll see after I talk with scott @ rockstomper.

I need a new front driveshaft, however I haven't test fitted my blazer one. It might work?

My rear blazer driveshaft fits GREAT!! I was stoked about that.:D:D But I do need to put a CV on it (have one!) since I pointed the 14 bolt @ the Transfer case.

The rear SS-Extended brake line off my blazer worked on the rear. There was an adapter that came with it to fit the blazer brake line, and I took the adapter off and the line bolted right up!! SWEET!!! :D:D Alread replaced the hardline I ground through :emb:

Need to eliminate my proportining valve and run the front line direct and and get one of those SUMMIT adjustable units for the rear line. (Anyone have the web address for those adjustable units, I forgot it :emb: )

and I still need to figure out that backfire thing....

Oh one more thing,........ a stepladder to work on the engine ;)

I think that's it. And terra is still waiting for a tire measurement.

Originally posted by Hooper


Dang, you really kicked your front axle a long way forward??

Actually my wheel is just turned, optical illusion. I kept the wheelbase the same.:beer:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
I need a new front driveshaft, however I haven't test fitted my blazer one. It might work?


Oh one more thing,........ a stepladder to work on the engine ;)


Run a square for the front. Cheap and easy, won't break, who needs 4-Hi :D

Get good at standing on the tire:p

Cliffhanger,

I know you are itching to wheel the rig, but the blocks (at very least the fronts) and the cheesy steering have GOT to go. Those 2 things are 100% hack, and dangerous.

To eliminate the blocks, use some 2" lift springs. If they are too tall, mix and match with some of the stock leaves to bring it down. Or you could use add-a-leafs, I don't know what kind of bad experience you had with AAL's, but they can work just fine.

For the steering, since you are on a budget, you can do high crossover, which only raises the draglink. It would cost around $40 to machine a knuckle, $75 for an arm, $15 for mounting hardware, and $60 for a draglink.

Hey Cliffhanger, if you could measure the hieght and width with them on the truck, i want to see what they measure with wieght on them and let me know what type of air pressure they have in them. Thanks, the truck looks good to bad your not going to make the RMIR this year, hopefully next year.

Caddy,

Some nice work, however i agree with the others on the steering. Get it right, before it sets you straight at the most inopertune moment. Chop the fenders, and tu the back, looks like you already know how to hack weld:flipoff2: :p so it should be no problem.

Are the axles from a fullsize Chevy or did you narrow them? Can ya spock me a measurement on how far the tires stick out and what size they are exactly? Will the coppers like the stickout or are ya gonna run flairs?

Fleckster

Originally posted by Ben W
Cliffhanger,

I know you are itching to wheel the rig, but the blocks (at very least the fronts) and the cheesy steering have GOT to go. Those 2 things are 100% hack, and dangerous.

In my defense, the blocks are the equivalent of adding leaf springs to my leaf pack. I figure this since they are BOLTED to the leaf pack using the CENTER PIN. I don't see how this is anymore HACK than adding more leafs to a pack, so these will stay.


For the steering, since you are on a budget, you can do high crossover, which only raises the draglink. It would cost around $40 to machine a knuckle, $75 for an arm, $15 for mounting hardware, and $60 for a draglink.

I have been rethinking the steering, and of going to crossoever or, more likely, HY-steer. Even though I NEVER had a problems with this steering set-up, and believe it is PLENTY strong and safe

PS: I'm actually not interesting in wheeling it, until I'm totally satisfied that I will be safe driving it down the highway. This will be a daily driver.

Thanks for your input :beer:

Originally posted by The Fleckster
Caddy,

Chop the fenders, and tu the back, looks like you already know how to hack weld:flipoff2: :p so it should be no problem.

Are the axles from a fullsize Chevy or did you narrow them? Can ya spock me a measurement on how far the tires stick out and what size they are exactly? Will the coppers like the stickout or are ya gonna run flairs?

Fleckster

They are fullsize Chevy axles. The tires are 37x12.5x15 MTR's with 30lbs or air.

My guess (I haven't measured yet.) is that they stick out about 7" maybe a little more. I do plan on running some fender flares.

I do see a few rigs around here running with the tires sticking out, I don't think it's against the LAW here. :confused:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


In my defense, the blocks are the equivalent of adding leaf springs to my leaf pack. I figure this since they are BOLTED to the leaf pack using the CENTER PIN. I don't see how this is anymore HACK than adding more leafs to a pack, so these will stay.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?postid=484763

You can try to justify it however you want, but it is still a block. An AAL or a lift spring adds height by increasing the arch of the spring pack, not by increasing the distance between the pack and the spring pad. A block increases the distance between the pack and the spring pad. Bolting the block to the pack doesn't help all that much, because the addtional leverage created by the block will make it easier to snap the center pin. The block is also going to exagerate axle wrap, which will also increase the chance of breaking the center pin.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


Actually my wheel is just turned, optical illusion. I kept the wheelbase the same.:beer:

Ahh, that is what it is.

Originally posted by jdjanda


Run a square for the front. Cheap and easy, won't break, who needs 4-Hi :D

Get good at standing on the tire:p

Yeah, standing on the tire, and bending your knees backward as you lean over the fender.

Oh, wait, full size, that's right, you probably do not have the backward bending knee issue like us stock width axle boys have. I get done working on the engine, and my knees feel like they are permanently reverse arched!!!

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


In my defense, the blocks are the equivalent of adding leaf springs to my leaf pack. I figure this since they are BOLTED to the leaf pack using the CENTER PIN. I don't see how this is anymore HACK than adding more leafs to a pack, so these will stay.



Not really the same at all. If you snap a center pin with AAL, the axle can shift forward and rearward, as much as the ubolts will allow, but the springs cannot rock because the AAL is a long flat platfrom, and because the AAL is essentially the same thickness for much of its length, even if the center pin snaps, your ubolts will keep the axle basically centered, keeping your tires away from your sheetmetal. With blocks, if you snap a center pin, you could conceivably slide right off the front or rear edge of the blocks, or the blocks could spit out front or rear, dropping your springs the height of the block, and leaving a lot of slack in the ubolts. Your axle could REALLY shift under the truck, enough to put tire into sheet metal. I've seen a couple Scout II's go to the junkyard in the sky because an axle shifted tire into sheet metal.

Same reason lift blocks in the rear really are not a good idea. If one falls out, your axle will be all over the place, and a center pin is not designed for all that stress. Remember, with those blocks, the center pin is longer, and subject to a lot more stress. Compounding problems with problems.

If you are a good welder, and put a very good weld on the blocks, you would improve your situation somewhat.

AAL are inexpensive, they roughen up the ride a little, but not bad, they won't hurt droop, but you might sacrifice a little stuff. Most importantly, they won't kill you if you break a center pin.

Probably sounds like everyone is on the other side of the fence on this one, but blocks under the front springs are not a good idea, no matter how you look at it.

Even the thin shims I have on mine are not really *that* great an idea, and my shims are welded all the way around, and double pinned into the perches. Even with all that, I *regularly* (read a couple times a week) take a long hard look at those shims to make sure they have not moved at all.

Pull the blocks, break out the sawzall.

It'll fix your steering clearance problem.

It'll also lower your center of gravity..

And you're going to have to chop the fenders anyhow.. :D

Throw in a 1" body lift to help out with tire clearance just a bit.

Really, unless you cut out the "shelf" and eliminate all under-hood storage areas (or go with a lot of body lift), your tires are GOING to hit the fenders.

What's a 1/2" or 1/4" of more up-travel?

Keep it low and stable.

I already made up step-by-step instructions on how to butcher the sheetmetal... :D

I have AAL's in the spring packs all the way around on my '79. They *initially* stiffen the ride and add a bit of height, but I think you'll find that if you really go out and wheel enough to flex the springs regularly, they very quickly soften up. On the 800A, back when we first went soa, with stock springs, we broke a spring within a couple weeks of crawling because we were flexing it so much more than when sua.

Repeat after me: AAL's are GOOD. AAL's are our FRIENDS.

They'll save your springs. Because, without some help in the stiffness department, 30 year old springs sag and fatigue much too quickly after a spring over. :(

Oh, and I second the motion about a moderate body lift. It's absolutely amazing what even 1" will do for you when you're as close (to rubbing) as you are right now.

Nice job overall though. The other guys have addressed the other stuff already. I prefer to take it all in, overlook much, help what I can. :)

I'll take your guy's advice to heart. Good info regarding the center pins breaking due to the added leverage. I hadn't thought of that, but wouldn't they just pop out of the spring perch holes first ? (just wondering)

Anyway I'm sure I've posted elsewhere that I hope to get 2" lift springs in the future. One quick fix I thought of, since I need new shackles anyway, is making some shackles about 1 to 1-1/2" longer for the front and rear, thus eliminating the need for the plates. I know I will sacrifice my caster in the front, and I think the rear axle will end up pointing ABOVE the x-fer case ( not much I guess though) since it's pointing AT IT now....hmmmm is that really bad :(

We'll call this my learning curve. ;) Seriously I appreciate the info though :beer:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
I know I will sacrifice my caster in the front, and I think the rear axle will end up pointing ABOVE the x-fer case ( not much I guess though) since it's pointing AT IT now....hmmmm is that really bad :(


I can't quite remember the answers when I asked a simlar question before.. but since the Chevy has caster to begin with, and they run a front CV.. shouldn't you be able to point the pinion up a fair bit and STILL have some caster?

Granted, you may need to tip it past the stock Chevy upward angle thanks to the taller Scout, but as it's sitting now you should have the pinon roughly horizontal.. and a lot of caster.

So where I'm going with this is.. you could probably go with your extended shackles and still have more caster than stock.

Would slapping a magnetic protractor across the axle knuckle yokes be a good indicator of caster? :)

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Pull the blocks, break out the sawzall.

It'll fix your steering clearance problem.

It'll also lower your center of gravity..

And you're going to have to chop the fenders anyhow.. :D

Throw in a 1" body lift to help out with tire clearance just a bit.

Really, unless you cut out the "shelf" and eliminate all under-hood storage areas (or go with a lot of body lift), your tires are GOING to hit the fenders.

What's a 1/2" or 1/4" of more up-travel?

Keep it low and stable.

I already made up step-by-step instructions on how to butcher the sheetmetal... :D

I was trying to avoid having to do any MAJOR fender trimming like you had to. Although I expected to have to do quite a bit, I guess it's inevitable. After taking a close look at the inner fenders I think *hoping* I can clear out enough NOT to have to move body mounts and shiat. But just lower the bump stops a little.

I also don't want to run a body lift, but as I'm sure your all aware, she does need new body bushings which, by itself would help with clearance :rasta:

OH yeah, remember when I said I didnt' think my steering set-up would be a problem (as far as ROLLING back and forth) well as I look at the angle that the drag-link is at, I'm thinking I will have problems. BUT when it was on my blazer it was ALMOST a straight shot from the pitman arm to the mount. Which is probably why there was no ROLL.

SO it looks like AT LEAST crossover is in my future, but more likely HY-steer (since with HY steer I won't need a new drag link, like I do now or would with just the crossover.) :sigh:

And here I thought I was almost done:rolleyes: shit, this is just the begining :( :beer: :beer: :beer:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I can't quite remember the answers when I asked a simlar question before.. but since the Chevy has caster to begin with, and they run a front CV.. shouldn't you be able to point the pinion up a fair bit and STILL have some caster?

Granted, you may need to tip it past the stock Chevy upward angle thanks to the taller Scout, but as it's sitting now you should have the pinon roughly horizontal.. and a lot of caster.

So where I'm going with this is.. you could probably go with your extended shackles and still have more caster than stock.

Would slapping a magnetic protractor across the axle knuckle yokes be a good indicator of caster? :)

I meant to get an angle finder, but no one in town had one. I wish NE didn't suck sooooooooo much :mad3:

So I guess longer shackles in front is a go...ANYONE know what kind of effect having the rear axle pointed *slightly* ABOVE the transfer case would have, even when runnig a CV?????? .....And would those effects (if negative) be worse than having the plates in the rear.

PS: we're only talking aobut 1.5" of blocks.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger

I was trying to avoid having to do any MAJOR fender trimming like you had to.


Uhh.. yeah. Keep lifting. :D

Looks like you won't be able to keep any of the forward/bottom lip.. tho' mine has to go now, too.. I was trying to avoid hacking it off, but I fear it's going to be in the way.


taking a close look at the inner fenders I think *hoping* I can clear out enough NOT to have to move body mounts and shiat. But just lower the bump stops a little.


Mine just rub on the front of the rocker area only on the passenger side, with the worst body mount.

I think you can run the 37s (with a front shackle, anyhow) without relocating the body mounts, but the rocker should probably be cut back a bit.. maybe *to* the body mount/follow the foot-well area of the firewall.


I also don't want to run a body lift, but as I'm sure your all aware, she does need new body bushings which, by itself would help with clearance :rasta:


I don't have issues with a *one inch* BL on top of new bushings.. I just don't want a 2-3" body lift, but 1" can help make room for a lot of things - taller shock mounts in the rear, a bigger air filter under the hood... plus one more inch of uptravel.


SO it looks like AT LEAST crossover is in my future,


And your past, since that's how it came stock. ;) And you almost have a x-over with your current setup.


but more likely HY-steer (since with HY steer I won't need a new drag link, like I do now or would with just the crossover.) :sigh:


Just move the draglink.. worry about the tie-rod if/when it becomes a problem.

Or do like me and buy a Checker lifetime warranty tie-rod and just replace it frequently. :D

~$110

And here I thought I was almost done:rolleyes: shit, this is just the begining :( :beer: :beer: :beer:

Oh yes, JUST the beginning!

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


I meant to get an angle finder, but no one in town had one. I wish NE didn't suck sooooooooo much :mad3:


I bought mine at ACE Hardware...


So I guess longer shackles in front is a go...ANYONE know what kind of effect having the rear axle pointed *slightly* ABOVE the transfer case would have, even when runnig a CV?????? .....And would those effects (if negative) be worse than having the plates in the rear.


Better to have the pinion down slightly.. when you get on the throttle the pinion will climb.. so if you're above the t'case to start with, you're going to make the angle on the axle end U-joint more severe.

I once saw the pinion climb up high enough it bound up the driveshaft and tore it apart.

Of course, he also stretched the U-bolts, bent the spring perches, put a twist in both axle shafts...

Put a degree shim in the rear to adjust.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Put a degree shim in the rear to adjust.

No, don't put a degree shim in the rear, do it RIGHT, grind the perches off and reweld them at the correct angle.

If you don't reweld them now, after you've wheeled the piss out of it, and you are sick and tired of the stupid ass shims turning and letting the u-bolt loosen up, you'll have to tear it all apart and grind the perches off and reweld them at the correct angle.

I agree with Ben on the degree shims, I was too lazy to grind my perches back off and do it right, shims held ok the first couple times out, now its a constant fight to put everything back in place everytime I wheel it. Not changing it tho, unless I use these axles in another rig, otherwise it will be up to the next owner to change them.

Originally posted by Ben W


No, don't put a degree shim in the rear, do it RIGHT, grind the perches off and reweld them at the correct angle.

If you don't reweld them now, after you've wheeled the piss out of it, and you are sick and tired of the stupid ass shims turning and letting the u-bolt loosen up, you'll have to tear it all apart and grind the perches off and reweld them at the correct angle.

Or get steel shims and weld them in place. Or, as I did, double pin the shims (used stock center perch hole, but added another, smaller hole through the shim into the perch forward of the stock center pin hole) then weld the shims in place. Mine don't walk on me at all now. (front axle - didn't want to screw with grinding on the diff housing)

AHHHHHHH WILL IT NEVER STOP???? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

On the REAR axle don't bother fucking with shims, welded, bolted WHATEVER!! Just hack the perches off and weld on new ones! I speak from experience, I put some stupid shims on last year, and now I can't wait to get those bastards off and do it right.

On a front axle w/ the cast spring perch, a shim is an option, because there really isn't much else you can do.

Originally posted by Ben W
AHHHHHHH WILL IT NEVER STOP???? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

On the REAR axle don't bother fucking with shims, welded, bolted WHATEVER!! Just hack the perches off and weld on new ones! I speak from experience, I put some stupid shims on last year, and now I can't wait to get those bastards off and do it right.

On a front axle w/ the cast spring perch, a shim is an option, because there really isn't much else you can do.

Aluminum shims in the rear Ben? My old aluminum shims walked all over the place on me. Couldn't keep them in place to save my life, so my ubolts were always loosening up on me, so my center pins got hammered, so the center pin holes in my perches got elongated, so........ Ugly.

But, if they are steel shims, just weld em in place to keep them from walking on you, IF you already have shims in. If not, knock the perches off and put them on right.

They are steel. Shims suck ass no matter what they are made of. I'm not going to weld them in place, because I'm tired of hack jobs on my rig, and I've decided to start doing things the right way. The little bit of extra effort (or $) it takes to do something right is worth it in the long run.

Originally posted by Ben W
They are steel. Shims suck ass no matter what they are made of. I'm not going to weld them in place, because I'm tired of hack jobs on my rig, and I've decided to start doing things the right way. The little bit of extra effort (or $) it takes to do something right is worth it in the long run.

Great. You are planning on yanking the shims, whacking the perches off, sometime, soon maybe. But, until then, 5 minutes with the welder and you are in much better shape.

Unless, you are worried that 5 minutes with the welder will *fix* the problem *well enough* that you will lose the incentive to do it *right* :D

Originally posted by Hooper


Great. You are planning on yanking the shims, whacking the perches off, sometime, soon maybe. But, until then, 5 minutes with the welder and you are in much better shape.

Unless, you are worried that 5 minutes with the welder will *fix* the problem *well enough* that you will lose the incentive to do it *right* :D

Wrong. Fixing the rear perches is just one of several projects to get the rig ready for wheeling, before Memorial Day.

Hooper & I were getting a little off of this topic, so I split our conversation off to another thread. See 'Memorial Day Tangent' if you are interested.

OK kids quit fighting :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

First of all BEN, YOU SUCK!! :flipoff2: :beer: But I do agree with doing it right the first time.

HOWEVER; I just put this perches on and they're not coming off until I find out if HOOPER's Idea will work for me.

I'm not a throttle wheeler so I think it will be ok. But I will get rid of my blocks.;) (glad I didn't pay the $65 to have them made!)


Oh, TOM. I was think the same thing about following the floorboard/firewall area when trimming the fender. I figure I'll need all I can get.

Originally posted by Ben W
Hooper & I were getting a little off of this topic, so I split our conversation off to another thread. See 'Memorial Day Tangent' if you are interested.

THANKS :) :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Cliffy,

Rather then an AAL or extended shackles in the front I mounted the front springs 1.250" at the front and 1.5" at the rear mount further down on the frame. Might look at that option, I had to make new spring mounts anyway. With the 35's I have plenty of fender clearance, and my total lift wound up around 6 inches in front. The rear uses a custom stock height pack with AAL and extended shackles, rear lift without load is around 7 inches, levels off with the trail load. I've got room for about 6-7 inches of up travel in front, and 7-8 out back, without trimming. I'm going to take the sawzall to it soon and should gain enough room for another 1 inch of up travel. I'm only going to perform the standard Scout trim, the front fender nip, and the rear skirt trim.

Joe

I do like the idea of making new mounts. ESPECIALLY after getting a good look at the factory welds (my grandma welds better than that :eek: )

But for now I'm looking for SAFE, EASY and CHEAP solutions. :rolleyes: LIKE THOSE EXIST RIGHT :rolleyes:

I will keep that in mind though, thanks ;):beer:

First off:

TERRA~ the tire height is at a shockingly LOW 35.75"
Thats at street pressure. Glad I didn't go 35's :eek: especially with a 14bolt!!

RUSTY~ the tire stickout at the rear is a SWEET 3.5" and the front is at 4" (or as near as I can tell since the wheel was turned, I measured off the middle of the wheel.)

AAAAND.....if I remove my cheesey stock roof rack I'll be at a height of 78.5" Which means I can squeeze it into a 7ft garage :bounce:

Approach angle (well close anyway, since the wheel is turned :p)

Here's a shot of the front, it's supposed to show the width. Man I really need to turn those tires straight :rolleyes:

Here's a shot showing the rear stickout. I guess the flash didn't go off, so I had to make some adjustments in Photoshop.

This one is supposed to show the front stickout, but I'm not sure how clear it is (the turned wheels again :rolleyes: )

And lastly here's a shot of the GC, I measured it when I had ONLY the rear axle done and it was at about 11" *I THINK*...I'll go measure again.

FRONT GROUND CLEARANCE IS @ 12" pretty good

REAR GROUND CLEARANCE IS A LITTLE LOWER @ 10.25" I do plan on giving the rear pig a BIG shave in the future. ;)

Not that anyone really NEEDS this info, but just in case...here ya go:

STEPS FOR REAR AXLE

- Grind old Perches off 14bolt
- Drill out stripped bolt from 14bolt yoke
- Take origional rear axle and rear springs off of Scout
- Put new busings in rear springs and shackles
- C-Clamp the springs and remove the old center pins
- Drill out 3/8” hole in springs for new center pins
- Add 1-1/2” of steel plate to bottom of springs (for lift)
- Install new center pins
- Reinstall springs
- Grind NEW spring perches to fit 14bolt axle tube size
- Mock-up the 14bolt to check fit, centering, pinion angle (point pinion at Transfer case)
- TACK WELD perches (do not fully weld yet.)
- Double check FIT, CENTERING, PINION ANGLE!!
- Remove 14bolt and fully weld perches

- DO FINAL INSTALL OF 14-BOLT
See if on of the rear Drive-shafts will bolt up (even if it won’t slip anymore, just to move it)
- See if the brake lines will hook up


STEPS FOR FRONT AXLE & STEERING

- Take center pin stub out of front passenger side spring pad
- Remove origional front axle, springs and steering components
- Install new bushings in front springs and shackles
- Drill out 3/8” hole in springs for new center pins
- C-Clamp the springs and remove old center pin.
- Put 1”of steel plate under spring pack (for lift)
- Reinstall springs
- Remove origional Scout pitman arm
- Install waggy pitman arm
- Grind out section of drag link arm mount
- Mock-up 3/4T D44 and check for caster (order shims Monday if needed or Have made at Henkle Machine)
- If all looks OK Bolt in 3/4T D44
- Install the high angle Drag-link end on the drag link end going to the pitman arm (take it off of Tie rod)
- Bolt in the Drag link (and tie rod if it was taken off)
- Hook up brake lines with adapters from Parts Mike
- Bleed brakes ( ONLY If rear brakes are hooked up! )
- Check toe-in, and adjust if necessary
- Check to see if origional Drive-shaft will work.

DOUBLE CHECK ALL BOLTS FOR TIGHTNESS

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
[B]Not that anyone really NEEDS this info, but just in case...here ya go:


You forgot replace bushings in frame :D

SHUT UP!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Wow The scout looks great. I have a :question:
Whith the new 37 on will you or did you re-enforce the frame where the box connects. Ive heard of Scouts suffering form cracks just like the chevys with larger tires. Any way looks great nothing 15 bucks worth of rattle can cant fix:D

Originally posted by SnowScoutII
Wow The scout looks great. I have a :question:
Whith the new 37 on will you or did you re-enforce the frame where the box connects. Ive heard of Scouts suffering form cracks just like the chevys with larger tires. Any way looks great nothing 15 bucks worth of rattle can cant fix:D

I wasn't aware of that problem with the steering box. Not a big deal, easy to fix.

I have about $300 worth of Sherwin Williams paint I'm thinking of slapping on it. I'm also considering just priming it???

Originally posted by Cliffhanger

OH yeah, remember when I said I didnt' think my steering set-up would be a problem (as far as ROLLING back and forth) well as I look at the angle that the drag-link is at, I'm thinking I will have problems. BUT when it was on my blazer it was ALMOST a straight shot from the pitman arm to the mount. Which is probably why there was no ROLL.

SO it looks like AT LEAST crossover is in my future, but more likely HY-steer (since with HY steer I won't need a new drag link, like I do now or would with just the crossover.) :sigh:



Well after driving my truck around town last weekend I've decided until I have lots of time and money on my hands to do a hy-steer, my steering set-up stays!!

At the wheel I only have 2" total inches of play before the wheels beging to turn. I belive this is due to the BOX. Also the steering feels GREAT at high speeds; No vibs, no pulling, etc. and the drag link does not "ROLL" the tie rod while steering.

In other words I'm very satisfied with the steering.

PS: I have that much play in the steering of the 95 F-150 Eddie Bauer P/U that I drive.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
This one is supposed to show the front stickout, but I'm not sure how clear it is (the turned wheels again :rolleyes: ) here is a pic of full width with 37's

harkinoff, what BS are those wheels and what width or they 8" or 10"

I think the back spacing was 4 1/2 and they are 10" rims

What size tires?

tires arre 37/ 12.50x15 and yes I ground the 60:rasta:

Originally posted by harkinoff
here is a pic of full width with 37's

Whose made your diff guard?

Looks like a 4x4 doctor model to me :confused:

Originally posted by harkinoff
here is a pic of full width with 37's


Do you have any side pics of your wheel well trim job? Thanks!

I need to do a **little** cleaning of the wheel wells and would like to see what you did before I chop up the stubby truck....
http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL68/424839/468032/11084031.jpg

Oh yeah...I found an exploded view of a SII steering column on Light Line's website...FYI...maybe I can get it back together this weekend...

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Looks like a 4x4 doctor model to me :confused: I think it was a challenger performance guard? I got it by trade work, my buddy made is front 60, and our 14 bolt guards, he does nice work, here is the rear , his guards go all the way around diff, instead of just half way

[QUOTE]Originally posted by YellowIH
[B]


Do you have any side pics of your wheel well trim job? Thanks! its changed a little since this pic

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Looks like a 4x4 doctor model to me :confused:

Don't have the fab skills to make one myself, and talked to Fleck, but he doesn't have the means, either, so I am gathering ideas. The bolt on variety are $60 and up. Seems a bit excessive to me.

Originally posted by harkinoff
[QUOTE]Originally posted by YellowIH
[B]


Do you have any side pics of your wheel well trim job? Thanks! its changed a little since this pic


As always...nice ride!

So when you trimmed the rear of the front fenders and the front of the rear fenders did you reinforce it or just chop it out....what did you do...I only have to do a **little** surgery and want to avoid any problems you might have encountered.

It doesn't look like you removed much of the front rear or rear front fenders.....

Thanks...looks good!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by YellowIH
[B]


As always...nice ride!

So when you trimmed the rear of the front fenders and the front of the rear fenders did you reinforce it or just chop it out....what did you do...I only have to do a **little** surgery and want to avoid any problems you might have encountered.

It doesn't look like you removed much of the front rear or rear front fenders.....

nope I didn't touch the front rear or the rear front, instead I moved axles all the way forward on the front and as far back as I could go on the rear, so I trimmed up and the direction axle went , and then bent the straight cut over for strenght,:rasta:

So what's your wheelbase now??

107 1/2" wheel base:D its going to be another two inches when I redrill spring bolt when I install doubler:D