going to do a rear disk brake swap on a 85' 14 bolt FF axle i have... i know you can use 3/4ton chevy disk brakes, and calipers and buy brackets (or make them) but the only thing is they dont have an ebrake cable assembly... i also know about the elderodo calipers that do have the ebrake assembly... but is there any other options out there??? a new set of calipers from the elderodo are about $138 a peice... :eek: :eek: is there any other ways i can do this with out spendin that kind of money? and no i am not goin to go w/ high angle's np205 ebrake kit... any chance a new 1/2,3/4,or 1 ton truck calipers would fit/work?

thanks

line lock it

line lock it

??? what is a line lock ???

how easy/expensive??

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+%2D128337&D=%2D128337

You can sometimes find older mechanical "Mico" locks at junkyards.
Look in old dually work trucks & the bigger PGE type trucks, & forklifts.

I might be selling a mech one in a month or two.

Line locks leak down in a few hours and your junk rolls away!

A pair of Wildwood cable operated calipers is only 125.00

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/950202280.jpg

go to this site http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=62 i have one in the front and rear the presure in the line locks it,mine held for 5 days before i drove it again.

go to this site http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=62 i have one in the front and rear the presure in the line locks it,mine held for 5 days before i drove it again.
Or save yourself 25.00 and get the less fancy version.

http://www.huachengvalve.com/images/231.jpg:flipoff2:

looks like something i'd put on my beer tap when friends come over

A rotor at the T/C yoke has proven to work well..............

A rotor at the T/C yoke has proven to work well..............
[from the original post]...and no i am not goin to go w/ high angle's np205 ebrake kit...
[foghornleghorn voice]Pay attentioin son...[/foghornleghorn voice]

Line locks leak down in a few hours and your junk rolls away!

A pair of Wildwood cable operated calipers is only 125.00

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/950202280.jpg
Ive seen those, but arent they for the nonvented rotor? Thats what I thought when I looked into them.

Ive seen those, but arent they for the nonvented rotor? Thats what I thought when I looked into them.
The caddy calipers don't work on a vented rotor.

Or save yourself 25.00 and get the less fancy version.

http://www.huachengvalve.com/images/231.jpg:flipoff2:

dumbass newbie question-
will this really work? I wouldn't expect it to act as an ebrake for days - I only care about the momentary action, and at most a 1/2 hour hold when I have to get out and monkey around

dumbass newbie question-
will this really work? I wouldn't expect it to act as an ebrake for days - I only care about the momentary action, and at most a 1/2 hour hold when I have to get out and monkey around
Yes it will work, but get one rated for a 1000-2000psi. :
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1612836888

Dont fuck around with your brake systems. they make a lot more than 1000-2000 psi. Get a ball valve made to handle high psi.
http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-83KF2&return_url=SS=high+pressure+ball+valve&RT=0&PG=0&RPR=0

This one is good to 10,000psi

Dont fuck around with your brake systems. they make a lot more than 1000-2000 psi. Get a ball valve made to handle high psi.
http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-83KF2&return_url=SS=high+pressure+ball+valve&RT=0&PG=0&RPR=0

This one is good to 10,000psi
I have a gauge on mine and have never seen more than 1200psi! :flipoff2:

Let me summarize for the rest of the guys like me...(and this then ties to the other current thread) - please correct me if I don't quite get it right

- Lever actuated locks (jamar, etc - i.e. "cutting brakes") are generally only momentary, not lockable (same as your brake pedal) - they work from pressure applied with handle via piston, and is why the handles are so goddam long

- line locks (electric) - i.e. used mostly in drag racing? You apply the pressure to set your brakes, then hit the switch, which blocks the line keeping the pressure there. The switch doesn't apply pressure like the lever acuated, simply cuts off the flow. Idea is that you can quickly discharge with push of button (last yellow before the green at the drags)

- line locks (ball valve) - i.e. same as as a water shutoff, but rated for far more than 100psi. These are like line locks because they don't apply pressure to the system, simply cut off the flow. So....one could use them 2 different ways...

1) brakes are off, put the lock on the front brakes (this blocks flow, so no front brakes) - now if your in front wheel drive and feather your brakes with your left foot, it's applying only the rear brakes as you pivot around... could be useful - i'm also thinking if I was wide open... I could lock the front (no brakes) then feather the rear brake to get traction while not impeding the usefulness of the front for traction.

2) brakes are on, put the lock on the rear brakes (this blocks flow, but with pressure on the brakes) no you are simply driving with an anchor, no footbrake necessary.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Lastly, you set them both (with pressure) for a 4wheel ebrake - but best not to trust it with your life.

If someones guage shows 1200 psi, I think I'll opt for a 3x safety factor, just cause I'm a hack and don't trust myself, therefor building in safeguards just in case...?

One more thing - I assume the ideal situation would be to individually lock each wheel example: sharp turn up hill to right... (without rear wheel steering) - disengage rear axle, lock right rear tire, pull around with front axle powered. But who the hell woul want to mess with 4 levers, right?

I have a gauge on mine and have never seen more than 1200psi! :flipoff2:

So you half ass everything, big deal.:rolleyes: Whats wrong with a margin for safety?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429285&highlight=nylon
mostly oppinions but something to think about.

So you half ass everything, big deal.:rolleyes: Whats wrong with a margin for safety?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429285&highlight=nylon
mostly oppinions but something to think about.
1000 to 2000 is a working limit not burst limit! :shaking: Pull your head out.

1000 to 2000 is a working limit not burst limit! :shaking: Pull your head out.

Please Bob:rolleyes: Does everything work perfectly all the time? Its possible to exceed the working limit of just about anything. Again, whats wrong with erring on the side of safety? I work in high PSI fluid movement all day. I know what happens when working limits get exceeded. Those little valves you linked to earlier, leak around the shaft that attaches to handle. Why cheap out on safety?

*edit* ok Bob, I spoke wrong. Brake systems have a *working* limit of 1000-2000. But I still believe your wrong for recomending a cheap ass ball valve for something like a parking brake.

I picked up the whole rear disk break assemblies and hubs off a newer GM truck with plans to swap it onto my earlier drum braked 14 bolt. They use a drum brake inside the rotor hat style of parking brake. The only problem is apparently the axle flange bolt pattern is different on the newer GM axles as the backing plate won't bolt onto my axle like I hoped. I haven't had the time/money to get much work done on my project so I haven't sat down to figure out the best/easiest way to bolt them together.

Please Bob:rolleyes: Does everything work perfectly all the time? Its possible to exceed the working limit of just about anything. Again, whats wrong with erring on the side of safety? I work in high PSI fluid movement all day. I know what happens when working limits get exceeded. Those little valves you linked to earlier, leak around the shaft that attaches to handle. Why cheap out on safety?

*edit* ok Bob, I spoke wrong. Brake systems have a *working* limit of 1000-2000. But I still believe your wrong for recomending a cheap ass ball valve for something like a parking brake.
Your whole brake system is only rated for 2000psi. I don't know why you think a 5000psi valve is going to fix the whole system! So did you re-plumb your your system with thick wall tube,welded joints and 3-wire hose??? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :flipoff2:

Your whole brake system is only rated for 2000psi. I don't know why you think a 5000psi valve is going to fix the whole system! So did you re-plumb your your system with thick wall tube,welded joints and 3-wire hose??? :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :flipoff2:

Is that working psi or burst? The hard lines are capable of more, flex lines are rated at more, calipers can handle more. I dont think its gonna fix the whole system, I just dont believe its smart to introduce weak link.:shaking: Again, why not err on safety side? What else you got wonderboy?

Is that working psi or burst? The hard lines are capable of more, flex lines are rated at more, calipers can handle more. I dont think its gonna fix the whole system, I just dont believe its smart to introduce weak link.:shaking: Again, why not err on safety side? What else you got wonderboy?
Nope, Your spouting total BS if you think there rated for more.

Stick to printing ,your clearly not up to speed on hydraulics.

Stick to printing ,your clearly not up to speed on hydraulics.

:laughing: :laughing:
You got the wrong TracTracTor Offroader....I do the printing!!!:flipoff2: And you're right....I'm not!:D

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/tech/ Says 1200 to 1400psi is generally*required* operating pressure. Heavy vehicles with wide tires need more Braking psi.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291865 Flexible lines rated at 7000max burst psi, 1750 operating psi.

http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/hydraulic_brake_tube.html
SAE ratings of hard line *should* be 6800 to 23000 psi.

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Brake-Caliper-Pad-Apply-Pressure-Test-Kit-BEQ0197.html this tool tests caliper force up to 5000psi. so i'm guessing if it tests that high, calipers can make it.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/change-brake-pads.html This place claims modern brake systems capable of 2500psi

I couldnt find anything about max psi of MC's but if all the other parts can take that much psi, i'm guessing they can handle quite a bit.



Again Bob, why introduce a weak link? And bring some facts next time:rolleyes: I wouldnt have dug if you had brought some info(and not just your silly little gauge) instead of just spouting off.

I thought about going disk too, because if the axle leaks your brakes are toast. The caddy calipers will work, but you need to sand off half of your brake pads to fit vented rotors. So forget the caddy calipers.
For now I'm keeping my 70 pounds of brake drums. A driveline brake is your only real option for a street legal version.

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/tech/ Says 1200 to 1400psi is generally*required* operating pressure. Heavy vehicles with wide tires need more Braking psi.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291865 Flexible lines rated at 7000max burst psi, 1750 operating psi.

http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/hydraulic_brake_tube.html
SAE ratings of hard line *should* be 6800 to 23000 psi.

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Brake-Caliper-Pad-Apply-Pressure-Test-Kit-BEQ0197.html this tool tests caliper force up to 5000psi. so i'm guessing if it tests that high, calipers can make it.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/change-brake-pads.html This place claims modern brake systems capable of 2500psi

I couldnt find anything about max psi of MC's but if all the other parts can take that much psi, i'm guessing they can handle quite a bit.



Again Bob, why introduce a weak link? And bring some facts next time:rolleyes: I wouldnt have dug if you had brought some info(and not just your silly little gauge) instead of just spouting off.

Spouting off :laughing: :laughing: How about your grasping at straws!

From your links:

Your flex lines link just proves MY point. The working linit is 1750. Just like I stated before that 2000 psi working limit is a NORMAL spec for brake componets. So those lines you posted would be the weak link in the system not a 2000psi ball valve.

From Copper.org:
The brake tubes were removed from this vehicle and hydrostatic burst tested with the following results:
Tube No. 1 111,694.95 kPa (1 6,200 psi)
Tube No. 2 106,868.62 kPa (1 5,500 psi)

Bursting at an avrage of 5850 psi puts there working limit at 1950, but like I stated in my posts that most systems are built for a 2000psi working.

From your SSB links:

What amount of pressures are needed to stop my car?

Optimal brake pressure varies by vehicle and the type of brakes being used. Disc brakes generally require 1,200 - 1,400 PSI for proper operation, while drum brakes require only 600 - 800 PSI. Other factors which affect pressure include weight distribution, tire/wheel size, and suspension type. For example, a car that is very nose heavy and has narrow rear tires with rear disc brakes may only be able to tolerate 800 PSI before brake lockup occurs. A car that is well balanced and has a wide rear tire with rear disc brakes may tolerate as much as 1,200 PSI before lockup. For this reason, Stainless Steel Brakes recommends an Adjustable Proportioning Valve (right), which allows fine adjustment to optimize the brakes on specific vehicles. The idea is to prevent rear wheel lockup during severe braking.

Sure looks like there telling us that 1200 to 1400 is normal for front discs and 600 to 800 is normal for the rear. Well below the 2000 psi working for my valve.

This one is just to funny: this tool tests caliper force up to 5000psi. so I'm guessing if it tests that high, calipers can make it.
Yea and my tire pressure gauge goes to 150psi, what is your point? And you better the tell guys at SSBC there wrong is there PSI info, BUT YOUR JUST GUESSING. :rolleyes:

Keep digging. :rolleyes:

FWIW I buy $3000 to $5000 worth of hydraulic components each month for work.

Didnt you read about 6 posts back where I said I agreed with you that brakes operate in the 1000 to 2000 psi range? But you forgot to link to the one that says 'some brake systems operate as high as 2500psi':rolleyes: why?

What I have been conserned with this whole time is MAX psi. I just dont believe its smart to cheap out on something like that. So what, the swagelok costs $40 more than your valve. It'l last 3x longer and is made for high PSI precision fluid movement.

Your tire gauge goes to 150 cuz some tires are *capable* of holding 150psi, that would be my thought anyway.

If you want to half ass it, thats fine, i'm just letting people know there are better products out there. These are the CTM's of valves, your running the Spicers:flipoff2:

*edit* oh, and let me shit myself at your work experiance:shaking:

*edit* oh, and let me shit myself at your work experiance:shaking:
My work experience actually pertains to the topic at hand. And yourself admitting to just guessing out your ass, make me laugh. :laughing:

With your failure to answer my questions and to bring and hard data,I can see why nobody takes you seriously.

I have said my part,I'm done.

I love you bob.

My work experience actually pertains to the topic at hand. And yourself admitting to just guessing out your ass, make me laugh. :laughing:



Hyjackers at work?

Go bitch back and forth elsewhere!

With your failure to answer my questions and to bring and hard data,I can see why nobody takes you seriously.

I have said my part,I'm done.

I love you bob.
Get a room you two! :flipoff2:

The caddy calipers don't work on a vented rotor.
Whaddya mean? Ive made the little ones fit a k20 rotor, and of course the big caddy calipers fit no prob. Were you saying they dont work(on any rotor) at all ie funnay? Well, I ve personally pulled a small set of caddy calipers off a vented rotor'd eldorado if it makes a difference, its 1in thick rotor. Takes a bit of sanding on the pads to make work, but its easy.

OS, is just gettin in one of those shit fits again...:shaking:

but when you buy a caddy caliper (elderado) that have the ebrake setup, what rotors will fit them? along with the 14 bolt disk braket?? they sell kits on ebay for around $400 bucks or so... would it be a good idea to go with that? it has EVERYTHING except for the e brake cables... which i need to have made. i would assume that i could buy that kit in peices localy and might save a hundred bucks... going that route...

OS, is just gettin in one of those shit fits again...:shaking:
.
Read the thread, The one with there panties in a wad started here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5466568&postcount=18

I'd still like to see some kind of proof of said half ass , shoddy work.

So you half ass everything, big deal.:rolleyes: Whats wrong with a margin for safety?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429285&highlight=nylon
mostly oppinions but something to think about.


the man is right... why get a part that is so cheaply made and probably has the potential b/c of its cheapness to more likely break and cause sersious bodily harm... besides that part looks like a half ass part. isnt that more of a water/plumbing or gas line turn off valve? shit your probably better not to have an e brake then to have that thing:laughing: :laughing:

any ways... ive heard about a mirco lock... whats that?

the man is right... why get a part that is so cheaply made and probably has the potential b/c of its cheapness to more likely break and cause sersious bodily harm... besides that part looks like a half ass part. isnt that more of a water/plumbing or gas line turn off valve? shit your probably better not to have an e brake then to have that thing:laughing: :laughing:

any ways... ive heard about a mirco lock... whats that?
It's a Mico lock.... not a micro lock. It's basically a manually valve in the brake line to lock hydraulic pressure in the brake line.

the man is right... why get a part that is so cheaply made and probably has the potential b/c of its cheapness to more likely break and cause sersious bodily harm... besides that part looks like a half ass part. isnt that more of a water/plumbing or gas line turn off valve? shit your probably better not to have an e brake then to have that thing:laughing: :laughing:

any ways... ive heard about a mirco lock... whats that?
Ok Einstein how is this cheaply made?:
http://www.grainger.com/images/products/6GD36.JPG

using a line lock to hold your vehickle is like trusting your floor juck to hold up the vehickle while you work under it :shaking: :rolleyes: :skull:

http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-166.pdf

Good product info. 10,000psi working limit. pretty good lookin too.
http://www.swagelok.com/images/product_images/large/SS-83KF4.jpg

OS, is just gettin in one of those shit fits again...:shaking:

but when you buy a caddy caliper (elderado) that have the ebrake setup, what rotors will fit them? along with the 14 bolt disk braket?? they sell kits on ebay for around $400 bucks or so... would it be a good idea to go with that? it has EVERYTHING except for the e brake cables... which i need to have made. i would assume that i could buy that kit in peices localy and might save a hundred bucks... going that route...
gotta be the 76-78, some of the big calipers look the same as the eldorados of same size but dont fit the k20 rotor. Some are also made to fit in front of rotor on a cad seville and are the big calipers but have the reversed swing of the ebrake arm on one(not able to run setup nicely in the rear of axle near top). Anyway, none of the 79-85 will fit a k20(1.25in thick rotor) without some work. I would sand the pads myself as I done it already if you have no choice but to run the small calipers. The brakcets everone sells are more for the big calipers, soooo get the right ones. A guy on ebay sells the brackets and the arms youll need for decent price, just need the rotors and calipers then.

http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-166.pdf

Good product info. 10,000psi working limit. pretty good lookin too.
http://www.swagelok.com/images/product_images/large/SS-83KF4.jpg
Nice valve..... with a not so nice price tag. The problem with Swagelok is you have to find a distributor near you. I found a local distributor and called on them about a year ago. I can't remember for certain what the quote was, but I do remember it was between $50 - $100 per valve.

gotta be the 76-78, some of the big calipers look the same as the eldorados of same size but dont fit the k20 rotor. Some are also made to fit in front of rotor on a cad seville and are the big calipers but have the reversed swing of the ebrake arm on one(not able to run setup nicely in the rear of axle near top). Anyway, none of the 79-85 will fit a k20(1.25in thick rotor) without some work. I would sand the pads myself as I done it already if you have no choice but to run the small calipers. The brakcets everone sells are more for the big calipers, soooo get the right ones. A guy on ebay sells the brackets and the arms youll need for decent price, just need the rotors and calipers then.

but supposedly the kit on ebay comes with everything i need. bolt the brakets up the the 14 bolt and then the rotors, and calipers will go right on... the elderodo calipers are what kills the price... there $138 a peice... the brake pads are only $38, at napa... just looking for some other calipers and rotors i could use on the 14 bolt bracket, or rotors that can have capilers to fit over them w/ an e brake system, so i can get it cheaper...

so what are the little levers that people usually have on their dash that have a little round knob at the end of them, and when they pull it down, it locks up their brakes?

but supposedly the kit on ebay comes with everything i need. bolt the brakets up the the 14 bolt and then the rotors, and calipers will go right on... the elderodo calipers are what kills the price... there $138 a peice... the brake pads are only $38, at napa... just looking for some other calipers and rotors i could use on the 14 bolt bracket, or rotors that can have capilers to fit over them w/ an e brake system, so i can get it cheaper...

so what are the little levers that people usually have on their dash that have a little round knob at the end of them, and when they pull it down, it locks up their brakes?
talking about "cutting brakes", I dont know much about them. ANYBODY??

talking about "cutting brakes", I dont know much about them. ANYBODY??

well not really cuttin brakes... why sand down the pads?? there must be some way out there to put different calipers on different rotors that have a e brake setup with our goin with the elderodo calipers...

well not really cuttin brakes... why sand down the pads?? there must be some way out there to put different calipers on different rotors that have a e brake setup with our goin with the elderodo calipers...
Sand pads only if you use the small eldorado calipers, they fit up to a 1in rotor. Im not a fan of solid rotors but on a trail rig I dont see a problem. Ive seen some lincoln rear discs in the for sale section that used a lever, Im guessing a solid rotor though.

so what i really should do is try to get the guy to give me the parts number off of everything he has... i would assume his calipers and rotors would need no modification (i would hope) i m just tryin to save a few bucks b/c i dont really feel like spendin $400 if i can spend $300 localy...:rolleyes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/14-BOLT-DISK-BRAKE-KIT-WITH-E-BRAKE-SET-UP-NOT-DANA-60_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42605QQitemZ80657689 41QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

PickNPull near my house has a bunch of the newer smaller calipers in stock. I found about 5 cars in the 79-85 range, but these are for 1" rotors.

No 76-78 instock:(

hey thanks for lookin for me r290... so the newer calipers fit the 1 in rotor? what are the chevy rotor widths???

thanks

what are the chevy rotor widths???

1 1/4"