I am concerned about welding a new perch on my D44. I am converting a Waggy D44 to SOA. I need to weld a piece of 1/2" steel on top of the cast iron diff for a perch. I know lots of people have done this. What can I expect? Should I use a Stick welder with Nickel Rod? Can I do it with my 220v MIG? What wire should I use? How should I prep the cast iron?

Thanks,
Tom

I used arc welder and 7018 rod

One DO A SEARCH!!!

Two use your ARC with Nickle rod. The 7018 doesnt have enough nickle to form a good weld.

Also Preheat the diff housing, Its the best way.

Don't worry about all that just pre-heat it until you see the water leave the are you are going to weld so get it about 250-300 and then weld it on. The spring pad that is there is doing most all of the work and this piece is is just helping so don't get too worried about it. 7018 is a good rod for cast steel, nickel is for cast iron.

WHAAAAA.... :rolleyes: Do A Search!!!!! Whatever, I dont get that shit.
If everyone used the shitty ass search engine on this site they wouldnt find anything.

As far as welding on the diff. Break the bank and get some 315L Stainless rod and pre-heat the diff. You dont have to get it glowing or warping the bearing bores, but it does need to be hot like before stated.

Then weld in 1" beads one on each side to start out with and then wait. Drink a beer or try searching for somthing here.
( That'll take you a while) :flipoff2:

About 10 min or so later come back and do the others in the same incraments.

Paint it and then come in and post the shit out the "Other board"
So you become a wheeler and the 20 year old rock gods wont harp on you for asking for THEIR advice Deep down inside they really want to help you, their just afraid!
;)

I searched and there were some decent topics regarding this, however none answered my question about using the MIG. Based on some other info I am going to preheat and use the MIG. I will stitch it with 1" welds.

Thanks,

i've always used 7018 and pre-heat.

Originally posted by Dennis Sinks

Paint it and then come in and post the shit out the "Other board"
So you become a wheeler and the 20 year old rock gods wont harp on you for asking for THEIR advice Deep down inside they really want to help you, their just afraid!
;)

I'm not sure what you are trying to say here:rolleyes:
but it sounds like you have a problem

If you cant see the point then maybe I shouldnt point it out for you?

You can use the search to your hearts content, you may or may not find what info you need. We all know this, I for one like anwering questions if they come up. It helps show the knowledge that I learnd here at POR.

If you piss someone off constantly when they ask a question, they leave and thereby hurt our sport and this site by losing members.

I for one try not to berate someone unless it is obvious that we have spoken about it before. If its not in the pages from the last few days, I say its far game to go over again.


That said, I wasnt trying to step on anyones toes here but if I did, I dont really care. :flipoff2:

For the welding with wire method............................................ .......

For those that want to use mig. Try going to your local welding supply and asking what a test roll of 316L Flux core goes for, Most shops will wind you up about 6Ft of it to see how you like it.

Get .035 & play with 1 foot of it or so to get the heat and bead width you need. Then proced in the same way as using stick arc.
1" bead switch sides and let cool back down to 300 deg ( Estimate) Preheat before welding.


simple

I agree somewhat with what Dennis Sinks is saying, maybe a little more diplomatic without sounding like a cry. :D
Personally, I get tired of looking at a thread and seeing, "do a search" on every other reply. :rolleyes:
Not saying it's never justified though. Especially after we beat the hell out of a topic a week earlier.
I'm with Dean on this one though, I see he's been doing some welding homework. :flipoff2:

Hey Dennis,

Why do you recommend stainless 316L wire? I was going to use .030 ER70S-6 with C25 gas. Will a MAPP torch be hot enough for preheating?

Thanks,

When you weld to disimilar Metals you always weld with a Higher grade rod. At my work we make sulpheric acid pumps and olem pumps. We use Hi grades of iron and Stianless in both pumps.

With that said it is our experiance that if you have a part that needs to be welded to a disimilar metal , its a safe bet to go with stainless. Its just a higher grade of steel and with the ductil cast we are welding one it seems to fuse the two together nicely.


It isnt vodoo , the 316 Stainless, Just weld like normal.
Just give it time for the heat to dissapate back to 300 or so deg.
( Estimate)


What i did for practice was tak a old brake caliper bracket and weld steel to it in the above stated procedure.

Then try and break the fawker off. If you have a stick arc (buzz box) grab some 1/16th" or 1/8th" rod since its cheaper and use it. Practice, practice!

Oops , yeah mapp gas will work just takes longer. A salamander kerosene heater will work too, just get it up close.

Another thing that is mistakaken is that the pumpkins is cast steel which it isnt. A simple way to determine this is to do the grind test.

Take a die grinder and just touch somewhere on the housing and watch the sparks, If they travel more than 2 feet and are a bright orange it is steel, if they are short and darker orange its iron.

And then iron rod should be used, when I say iron I mean the 99% Knickel joiner rod.

If in doubt use stainless. It will do the job.

Since the pad is taking rotational forces too , its a good I dea to get it to actually hold.


This is a fun subject. When I get back in town monday I will fire up the camera and see if I can get some pics of the brake caliper.

I did mine with the inner-shield wire, and have had no trouble. I have been watching for cracks, because I too was nervous about it. I just went slow and gave it a couple of passes.

Yep multiple passses is the way to go which ever way you decide to go. i will be using inner sheild on my new axle but it will be 316L

Ive welded them with 7018 and MIG, didnt preheat at all, and have never broke one or had a problems with cracks.

Yep, screw all that preheat crap. I took the 220 MIG to mine, single pass, using regular wire, 75/25 gas and no problems. YMMV

yep screw it crank up the mig and blast away. it'll hold

Well I tried welding the perch with my 220 MIG. No dice...

The welds cracked at the joint between the two metals. I was using ER70s-6 wire and gas combo. I guess I have to find a buzz box and some nickel rod(NiRod). Any other suggestions? I preheated and let the weld cools slowly. The cracks only appeared when I beat on the perch with a hammer. I was checking strength, I guess they failed the test.

Later,

iv done a bunch with not preheat and non have broke! preheating is just the "proper" way to do it.

Well, maybe you shouldn't beat it with a hammer next time.:D

Never had a problem with MIG on the centers. Just weld it. Also have used 7018, 7014, 6013, 6011. All have worked and none have cracked, with no preheat.

as i said i use 7018 and preheat. the first time i did it i didn't preheat and it cracked. preheating works.