A friend of mine got water in his motor. Is there a way to save it? I told him to take the plugs out and see if it cranks, and he said it still won't.

Any helpful tips? Or is it shot?

Do you mean by it wont crank, that the engine doesn't turn? Try using a breaker bar and a socket on the front of the crank and turn the engine. If you mean it wont start then start trouble shooting, electrical, bent valves, shattered pistions, etc..., if it was run. How long did it have water in it, if it was long enough the engine may have corroded internally.

It happened yesturday. But yeah it won't crank.

probably a bent rod or broken rod. Take off the oil pan and see whats keeping it from turning over. More than likely the motor's done if it wont turn over.

Same thing happended to mine a while back when I sucked water at like 6000rpm...Wouldn't turn over anymore so I pulled the head...Bent a couple rods and broke the timing chain...

That might be it. It's got water everywhere.

hydro-locked.:nuke:

i once bent a ford 300 rod so bad it touched the bottom side of the cylinder wall. i of course being the dumbass i was, tried to compression start it going down hill for a few miles instead of pulling the plugs.:shaking:

i probably bent it as far as it could before it would actually break. its that damn cold air intake on them things fault.:mad3:

once i got the water out, it would turn over and run, but it made one hell of a noise. i ended up putting a new rod and piston and all new bearings and rings in it. at 185k, the block still had a great cross-hatch in the cylinders. i was sold on those motors after seeing that.

i had that much water in my block when i sank my f150 that it was shooting outof the valve covers, yeah where tyhe gaskets WENT, still runs fiune with 350k on it and i had to drive 15 miles with that much water in my block to get it home, no matter what i do i cant kill my motor. but its prolly a bent rod or something, pull the oil pan and fix it, then if it can turn over run sea-foam in it to cklean out any remaining water, you might be able to save it

That is the thing, it WON'T turn over. No matter what we do. Plugs are all out, can't turn the flywheel, or anything.

It's a 302.

My 300 is a beast, haha, I love that thing, I stand by the I-6 so much.

try a socket and a big breaker bar on the bolt at the end (front) of the main pully. try this with the spark plugs out. try rocking it back and forth both ways. if this doesnt work, you have bent a rod so bad it physically cant fit in the cylinder anymore. in that case you are SOL unless you know how to fix the internals of a motor.

Yeah, put a breaker bar on that dampener bolt, strip that sucker right out! That there's some good advice!:flipoff2: damn newbies.

Remove the plugs, belts, and take off the valve covers and loosen the rockers. After doing that you will be able to turn the engine over BY HAND easily, if it doesn't then you have bent parts internally.

Who said anything about a dampner bolt noob...he said put a breaker bar on the CRANK pulley bolt.

Who said anything about a dampner bolt noob...he said put a breaker bar on the CRANK pulley bolt.

:laughing: what do you suppose the dampener is attached to? :laughing:

Yeah, put a breaker bar on that dampener bolt, strip that sucker right out! That there's some good advice!:flipoff2: damn newbies.

Remove the plugs, belts, and take off the valve covers and loosen the rockers. After doing that you will be able to turn the engine over BY HAND easily, if it doesn't then you have bent parts internally.


retard, how do you think they turn them over on the bench in a machine shop? get some experience, then get back to me.:flipoff2:

:laughing: what do you suppose the dampener is attached to? :laughing:

No dampner there on my toyota...

retard, how do you think they turn them over on the bench in a machine shop? get some experience, then get back to me.:flipoff2:

I'm sure "THEY" do but, most machine shops are not professional engine builders. Most in my experience, which is more than most, don't have a clue as to building an engine correctly.

if this has happened recently, its not rusted solid or needing to be broke loose with a bar. if its locked solid from a recent hydrolocking, been drained, and the starter cant turn it with the plugs out, a breaker bar is just going to strip something. something has probably bent.

take the pan off. go from there.

I'm sure "THEY" do but, most machine shops are not professional engine builders. Most in my experience, which is more than most, don't have a clue as to building an engine correctly.
suppose i should clarify. by "they" i mean the machine shop i used to work at. and by "machine shop" i mean professional engine remaning.

if you could "strip" that bolt at the end of a 302 crank by hand, i would give you $100.

Ok...On a happy side....

Yeah it won't turn over, so we are just going to pull it out and tear it down. It happened recently, so it's not rusted.

suppose i should clarify. by "they" i mean the machine shop i used to work at. and by "machine shop" i mean professional engine remaning.

if you could "strip" that bolt at the end of a 302 crank by hand, i would give you $100.

you could enver strip it on a non seized motor.

give me a 302 with a bent connecting rod contacting the cylinder wall and i guarantee you that bolt will be the first thing to go on that 302.

How the hell did he get water in the motor?:shaking:

If it was under water for a period of time.Water would go through the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust valve into the combustion chamber and then you can pretty much say you have water in the motor.Remember water is lighter than oil.

Its probaly cheaper to get another motor.If your friend sells his truck he probaly still wont have enough to buy a good motor.:laughing: :shaking:

How the hell did he get water in the motor?:shaking:

If it was under water for a period of time.Water would go through the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust valve into the combustion chamber and then you can pretty much say you have water in the motor.Remember water is lighter than oil.

Its probaly cheaper to get another motor.If your friend sells his truck he probaly still wont have enough to buy a good motor.:laughing: :shaking:
ive sucked water through the intake.

you could enver strip it on a non seized motor.

give me a 302 with a bent connecting rod contacting the cylinder wall and i guarantee you that bolt will be the first thing to go on that 302.
i dont think you could physically do it by hand, even under those conditions.

the point is, that IS a good place to turn the motor over by. and that guy probably needs to pull the pan and just look anyways. there is only so much we can do through the net.

MigMiester: I'm sure "THEY" do but, most machine shops are not professional engine builders. Most in my experience, which is more than most, don't have a clue as to building an engine correctly.
I am just wondering how these "professional engine builders" build an engine. How do they adjust the valves without using the front crank bolt. The starter wont put the piston in the proper position to adjust the valves. Putting pistions at TDC in the cylinders is pretty hard otherwise.

I am just wondering how these "professional engine builders" build an engine. How do they adjust the valves without using the front crank bolt. The starter wont put the piston in the proper position to adjust the valves. Putting pistions at TDC in the cylinders is pretty hard otherwise.

Most people just turn it over with the dampner/crank bolt...unless the motor is seized it works just fine.

A crankshaft socket. With the dampner removed, it fits over the shaft and has a slot for the keyway http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cca-4799_w.jpg

there also another low tech way, other than the front of the crank. it is the rear of the crank, with two bolts in it (where the flywheel would bolt), and a big pry bar. however, this doesnt work for the guy with the blown motor, so the front of the crank it is.

Water through the intake. If the motor is on it kinda makes it hard to get water through the exhaust.

I told him he'll probably have to get a short block because I don't have all the tools to rebuild, just be easier and just cost a little bit more to get a short block then rebuild.

is it carb'd? maybe this should be the time to get a different motor. i have driven a few 302 trucks, and i have to say i think the inline has motor power. i wouldnt buy a 302 truck, but would have to go for at least a 351.

It's fuel injected. I have a striaght six and I keep telling him to get one, I think he might go for the 351.

well, that complicates things a bit more, but doable. if i still owned a FS ford, i would only run one of three engines: FI-300, FI-351, or FI-460. but that is me and i hate carbs.

How the hell did he get water in the motor?:shaking:



Seems to me that the easiest way to get water in a motor would be through the intake, but im no rocket surgeon. Although i have sucked water in my intake before. :rolleyes:

damn scrapman, you are a wealth of knowledge.

Haha, he was pulling high RPM so the motor is most likely shot. But I figured I'd ask.

We already drained the oil, and it was nice and thin. And alot of water on top. But shyt happens. And he knows that he will probably have to buy a new motor for the truck. And he is just ready to make it just a wheeling vehicle.

you can get a junkyard 5.0L from several cars/trucks for next to nothing.....personaly, I'd go that route

Finally got around to getting it. It was hard as hell to pull out at first. I was dumb founded. So I went under to have a look. We forgot 2 bolts, haha. Just popped off after that. We were going to just set it on the stand and work on it tomorrow. But I couldn't resist. I took one of the heads off. One cylinder was still full of water. Others had like surface rust on the wall. It just wiped off. I pushed 3 of the pistons out. Got to the last one. Popped it out...The rod was BENT and TWISTED. I will post some pictures when I get my camera back. I have never seen anything like it before...