OK I got a good question, What is the longest lasting sawzall blade out?? I have been using dewalt blades but, When I start cutting heavey stuff (Yes, I have the right blades) they still wear out quick. I was just wondering if there was any better blades.

Craig

dewalt are the best one's I have found!

or use the blue ones, torch that is!

when we were building bajg's mount for his hydro cylender, i went through two dewalts cutting about 8 inches of 1/2 steel plate, wish i had a torch for that mess!!

Well i am an eledtrician by trade and use a sawzall on almost a daily basis. I usually buy the Lenox brand and get the 18tpi by 6in blades. I use them in my fabbing at home as well. I have found Lenox lasts longer than any other blade I have used at any tooth per inch as well. The blades are thicker than most others.

Originally posted by rockbound
dewalt are the best one's I have found!

or use the blue ones, torch that is!

when we were building bajg's mount for his hydro cylender, i went through two dewalts cutting about 8 inches of 1/2 steel plate, wish i had a torch for that mess!!

Yeah and how many of mine did you go through building your flares???:flipoff2:

The Lenox blades do seem to last...
I recently picked up some of the Demolition, and Rescue Blades that HD sells. (Sorry forget what brand)

Cool thing about them is that they are super long, and you can just cut with part of it, and if its a long run and it startsa getting too hot in that area, move to a different area on the blade.

Buy cheap...get crap.

MJ

I've had good luck with the Milwaukee ones, I get them free from work so that's what I use. I also use "cool cut" cutting wax to make them last longer.

Tass

craig, what the other guy posted, those rescue blades seem to be tuff as nails, i remember chris talkin bout them... they are expensive though......

Lenox brand..................What we used in our shop. Well that is until Toy 4Runner Man :flipoff2: gets tired of being persice and turns into a pyro!!!! Then the big bad tourch comes out and we spend the time we save grinding the edges smooth HAHAHAHAH But hey anytime you get to play with fire is a worth while cause!!!

Personally I used Demolition blades side by side with Milwaukees last week and I am taking the rest of those doggone Demolition blades that are unused back! I hated the things. Side by side, same speed, same piece of steel no less I switched to the M's and got probably 25-35% faster cutting with no noticeable less wear. Sure the D's are thicker, but that means you have to cut porportionately more steel out of the way of the blade to move further, meaning that much more heat. I had a lot better luck with the M's. In both cases I get the long blade and work up and down the blade pretty continuously to minimize heat buildup at any one point on the blade, that's crucial of course to making them last. All the cutting I was doing last week was on 3/8" thick plate as well as cast iron (cutting off the extra gussetting on the 14-bolt and 60. But the D's cut much slower for sure due to their extra thickness. Been a while since I used Dewalts, but as I recall they expired very quickly, didn't take the heat buildup well at all, at least the ones I used. I also tried the black Milwaukees, the ones with I believe it is carbide bits glued to the blade, very expensive and they didn't cut any faster. However they are useful for cutting hardened shafts such as when I had to cut the internal shafts out of an NP203 to separate the gear reduction box from the main t-case body and didn't want to do a full tear down - just loosened the bolts between the 2 sections, separated them as far as I could (maybe an inch or so) and cut away at the shaft, saved lots of time! Supposedly they are designed for stainless and iron, but they sure didn't do very well on the bottoms of the diffs - the regular 18 tpi blades worked much better for me anyway.

Hope it helps,

Originally posted by CrazyCraig


Yeah and how many of mine did you go through building your flares???:flipoff2:

i don't remember, i gave you some didn't I?

:confused:

I've been using The Torch by Milwaukee and they seem to do very well. They cut quick and stay pretty sharp. I used one blade to cut off my swaybar links, steering stabilizer link, trim my spring perches (twice), hack the snot out of my ARB bullbar (three times), and build me a rear bumper out of boxed tubing.

Rookie

If the boss is paying for the blades, we get the Lenox ones also. Most contractor supply houses carry them.

If I pay for them, I get the "Torch" ones from Home Depot or the swapmeet. They work real well too.

The ten and twelve pack ones you can get from Home Depot aren't very good and like to bend easy, but you do get twice the number for the price you pay for others.

Another thing to consider when cutting metal is blade speed. If you see sparks when cutting you're using too high a speed and burning up the blade. Slow the speed down and blade longevity increases. :beer:

Jes
Carpenter and Jeeper

It makes a mess, but oiling the blade while you cut helps alot.

Dem torch blades kick ass, I cut the tubes on both ends to narrow my Chev front w/ one blade, and it didnt even show any damage (oiled cutting though) The coarser torch blades are good too, I know a guy who cut a house trailer in half (including frame) w/ one blade.

Originally posted by rockbound


i don't remember, i gave you some didn't I?

:confused:

Not Yet

LENOX
Sheet Metal Worker approved!
carbide tip or the heavy guage steel ones they kick ass!:D

I use Milwaukee blades- they seem to cut the best. I've used lenox too with no problems.

Milwaukee portable bandsaw with milwaukee bands.....

makes SWEET cuts if you're patient enough

Yeah, actually I've used Torch too and they worked miles beyond the Demo blades. My only concern with them (though they last much longer than the thinner Milwaukees) was that in tight spots they tended to bump adjacent parts and bend the blade if you weren't carefull, the slant of their tip as I recall was less of an angle and the thinner ones would slide on by sometimes and not catch. But overall the Torches were unbeatable - I've just had trouble locating them since the local place stopped carrying them.

Originally posted by CrazyCraig


Not Yet

sorry pick a brand i'll buy ya a pack! :D

Lenox is the best IMO.

If I am cutting in a easy spot or steel to make stuff I try to keep some oil on the blade. It make s amess but the blades seem to last much better.

The other big thing I learned is that no matter how hard you press on the saw it is still only going to cut so fast. Let the wieght of the saw do the work for you if you are in that position. More pressure just makes more heat and eats tha blades even faster.

Also, I always try to keep the cut straight so the sides don't ride on the cut, this also helps with the heat and makes the blade less likely to bend and bind

I also try to beat the bent ones back in shape and get mor elife from them, it notmally works. Also I trim the long ones when I burn out the ends and use them else where.

Damn, I am one cheap fawker sometimes.....

Originally posted by DUG


Damn, I am one cheap fawker sometimes..... [/B]

Aren't we all!! :D

Originally posted by Jes
Another thing to consider when cutting metal is blade speed. If you see sparks when cutting you're using too high a speed and burning up the blade. Slow the speed down and blade longevity increases. :beer:

Jes
Carpenter and Jeeper

I second that, after talking to a race car fabricator I finally figured it out. I jus use the cheapy blades but on a lower speed (about half the max for my 6.5 amp craftsmen), and they last extremely long now that I dropped the speed in half. True it cuts a little slower but its not that big a difference but it keeps the heat buildup down.

Milwaukee makes some that are a grit style not toothed :D They work well on the REALLY hard stuff like cast and stainless. They are pretty fun but be sure to keep the heat down with those ones or they wont last for sh*t. I usually buy the house brand they treat me well.