I'm gonna quit being a lurker, at least for a few weeks. :) I'm new to Land Cruisers, but not Toyotas. I was on the LCML before it split, eventually I moderated the Toy4x4 list (which is now all but dead). I wrote for Off-road.com back when it was happening, but left there to start the Toy section at 4x4Wire. I made a career change and haven't had much time for writing since. Right now I'm home from work injured for a few weeks... lots of time on my hands, but I'm not able to turn a wrench right now.

About 5 years ago I sold my 1988 4Runner to buy my first house. staff.4x4wire.com/swilson/ (http://staff.4x4wire.com/swilson/) I left the site up since there is good info there. I bought a 1966 FJ40 a year or so later, but it was not a runner, and 4 years later it still isn't running. Right now I think I can have it done by early 2007. The goal is to have a very capable, full bodied FJ40, that can hold a family of 4 and maybe turn some heads along the way. The body will look mostly stock from the outside except for some trimming here and there. Still haven't decided if the paint will be a factory color. It will still be leaf sprung. Most everything else I'll modify the way I see fit. The drivetrain will be a LS1 series 4.8L, SM420, and dual Marlin mini truck cases.

Well... here's what a bought 4 years ago.

246644

246645

246646

Trust me, this was the last time my wife got motivated enough to work on the cruiser :) That was about 4 years ago.
246651

Just back from the sandblaster
246652

Coated in POR15
246653

I knew I wanted it spung over and shackle reversed. I'd seen a bunch of different methods of doing a shackle reverse, some of them total hack methods. I decided to copy what Toyota designed when they designed the mini truck. I used a solid axle swap kit designed a mini truck as my front spring hanger. Plus the spring hanger ties in the front of the frame and adds a lot of strength.

I kept the spring perch width the same as a mini truck, so my springs are slightly off set. That works since I'm also using a mini truck axle housing... more on that later. The shackle mounts were easy to offset as well. The broomstick made for an easy alignment tool.

246655

246656

246657

246658

Well, here's the front axle. At the time I was looking, Marlin Crawler had just introduced his hybrid D60 axle. It had everything I was looking for. Huge ground clearance, available high pinion 3rd member, good width, high steer. In addition to the high pinion FJ80 diff, I went with an ARB and 5.29 gears.

I ended up with axle #2... which I think ended up being the last one. Marlin decided not to continue with the hybrid axles soon after I took delivery of mine. I've talked with the owner of axle #1, and he's out thrashing it and is still very happy with it, so I don't expect to have problems.

The knuckles are D60 Dynatrac and brakes are 1/2 ton Chevy. For now I welded on a Marlin diff guard. I still haven't welded the truss on top or shaved off the drain plug.

Some of you may think I'm nuts for going with a smaller ring gear than stock, but I think it meets my needs well. This isn't going to be a tube buggy that will get trashed... its going to be a nice looking, very capable, full bodied FJ40 (with a hard top even!).

246670
246671
246672

And the rear axle. I originally bought the parts for this axle when I thought I was going to build another mini truck. I'm still a bit nervous that I haven't gone big enough with the rear axle... that said... it'll be easy to upgrade that later.

So what I'll be running for now is a 86-later mini truck rear axle. A V6 third member with ARB. Front Range Off Road full floater kit. Upgraded axle shafts. Aisin hubs. Calipers are Celica (w/parking brakes), rotors are mini truck front rotors. Still haven't shaved the drain plug on this one either. Haven't fabbed the traction bar either.

I ordered springs from Alcan Spring. I used them with my 4Runner and they really impressed me. Looks like they came out a bit high, as you'll see in the photos later... so I need to pull out a couple leaves... and I'm sure they'll come down a bit when I finally get some real weight on them.
246674
246675
246676

Rockers.

246677

Well, I planned to just do this chop and then fab some good rocker protection.
246678

Then I noticed the factory seam was slightly swollen on the underside. I decided to cut into the rocker and see what was going on. I couldn't believe how bad the rust was inside, considering the body still looked perfect from the outside.
246680

I ended up cutting it all out
246681

And then started with the repair. Turns out the rocker is 1.5" wide... and I made my cut 2" above where I wanted the bottom of the rocker to be. Then I found some 2x1.5" 1/8" wall tubing, capped the ends, and welded it in place. From beside the truck you can't even tell its not original. From below you can see the solid tube welded in place. I cleaned up any remaining rust and then POR15'd the inside of both rockers before welding the tubing in place. I still plan to add rocker protection, but I haven't fab'd it yet.
246682

246688

For the rear wheel wells I kept the factory curves but opened them up for the 38" swampers. I cut them all the way to the top of the wheel well and then welded the seam closed.
246689
246690

Then I cut some material and welded a lip back onto the edge of the wheel well. It was a lot of effort for something so minor, but it gave it a very factory feel, and added strength back into the body. I blended the edge into the top of the wheel well. I think it came out pretty good, and they definitely look better then just cutting them and leaving the thin sheet metal edge.
246691
246692


Thats it for tonight. I'll add more tomorrow.

i had the minitruck axle in mine and other than dragging the bottom out of it on rocks it worked fine..


nice job on the fenders.. heck, nice job on the cruiser!! (good plan)

chris:cool2:

I like your build approach with this, and the fact that you are puting thought into it, and taking pride in your work. It's soooo refreshing to see a CLEAN and ORIGINAL build concept on a Cruiser. I look forward to seeing the end product on this one:smokin:

A name from the past! Welcome, Scott! :flipoff2:

I dig the build to, nice work!

Nice work. Looks like yur making steady progress. Should be a sweet rig.

Sweet build! Keep the pics coming!

This was by far the worst rust on my cruiser.
246726

It hadn't spred into the corners much, and my corners were really straight, so I carefully cut the rear channel out, but left the skins on the corners. The plasma cutter I borrowed from a friend made this so much easier than it would have been.
246722

The rust had gone an inch or two into my floor so I had to add material to the floor. I'm still debating whether I should replace the entire floor. It still has some pitting on the floor surface. I plan to line-x, so that doesn't bother me too much. But the floor also had some pretty good dents. Its gonna take some work to pound them out. I'm still on the fence whether I'm gonna buy a new floor to weld in, or just pound out the original floor. Considering I already did the rear channel repair, I'll probably just pound out the existing floor.
246723

The rear channel I used was from CCOT. It was a really nice piece. It was especially nice not having to fabricate the bends in the corners.
246724

The channel got cut back a little due to the cut out fenders. I blended the fender lip into the new rear channel. Looks pretty slick.
246725

My rear doors were rotted, and I really wanted a tailgate. I ended up with Aqualu's aluminum tailgate with storage. Instead of using the aluminum spacer plates with the hinges, I welded spacer blocks into the body... afterall I still haven't painted yet. I also just tapped treads into the the spacer blocks instead of having to use nuts. I like this tailgate.

This year I've seen replica FJ40 tailgates on Ebay... if I had seen those back when I was looking for a tailgate I probably would have bought one since they look pretty cool. Since the Aqualu is already installed I'll stick with it, and will enjoy the lockable storage compartment in it.
246729

The corner protection is from CCOT also. I'm not a fan of diamond plate, but I didn't find anyone selling smooth corners. I'll have them painted the same color as the body so they won't be too ugly.
246728

I countersunk all of the bolts into the corners so they won't catch on anything and look really nice.
246730

Awesome work! I really like the way you did the rockers, I will be doing mine that way soon.

I am glad to see you figured out how to fight off boredom during your recuperation:D

Phil

I installed a GM tilt column from a 70ies Firebird. I ended up using the GM mount to attach it to the bottom of the dash. The holes actually line up to the factory dash holes. When I get around to redoing the instrument cluster the gap above the column will be go away.
246753

At the firewall I just cut a steel plate, stuck the column through it and welded it up.
246757

I went with a Saginaw box for steering. Bought the mounting plate from Custom Cruisers FJ40 in Gilroy... same for the steering shaft.
246754
246755

I filled the unused holes in the drivers side frame rail and the crossmember.
246756

246759

Since the Saginaw box was fighting for space with the crossmember I had added, the cross member got modified.
246760
246761

The Custom Cruiser FJ40 ps plate come with a plate for the passenger frame rail as well.
246762

I ended up with Marlin Crawler SM420 to mini truck Xfer case adapter #5 and put dual mini truck cases behind it.
246764

For my motor I knew I wanted a Gen III Vortec V8. I considered a junk yard motor, but once I added up the cost of a low milage motor, having the computer reprogrammed, possibly a custom harness... I decided to go with a crate motor. AA had a sale last year on their 4.8L Vortecs so I picked one up. I got a custom harness, new computer, flywheel, centerforce clutch, and a bunch of little pieces I needed to bolt up the SM420 to it. I plan to keep this cruiser forever, so I don't mind spending a bit more right now to put new parts in it.

246767

A few weeks ago I got the driveline hoisted into place, but then I realized the stock exhaust manifolds were going to dump the right onto the frame rails.
246765

246766

I've seen some V8 conversions at Custom Cruisers FJ40 in Gilroy where the used the stock manifolds... they mounted the motor higher than I plan to, and have a sharp bend in the exhaust right at the manifold to clear the frame... but they also used automatic trannies. With my SM420 I also have to have room for the slave cylinder and clutch fork.

Nice to see you back in the groove, Scott ;)

With some help I ended up finding Hooker block hugger headers for LS1 motors. These are perfect... and cheap. Painted black they are only $199. I opted for the ceramic coated ones. If you're doing a Gen III Vortec swap you need these headers. They clear the AA motor mounts, hug the oil pan, and drop straight down eliminating all clearance problems. The EGR tube will now have to bolt into the exhaust line rather than into the factory manifold like it used to.
246769

246770

Well that's as far as I've gotten right now. The motor is still hanging until I'm healed up enough to weld in the motor mounts. Once I'm wrenching again I'll be finishing the motor mounts and Xfer case crossmember. Then I'll be welding up the Metal Tech front fenders. I'll be sure to post pics.
246771

Great stuff!:D
Added you to the list
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385362

Scott,

Thanks for linking all these pics together...you know I havew many on the work computer that you have sent in the past...hope you start feeling better soon and after my day today I would gladly take you place....went to work at 2230 and didn't until 1630....loooooong day with a new guy....

I just found pics of one more modification... I didn't want to carry any jerry cans so I bought the Aussie made 28 gallon tank that Specter sells. To make it fit I had to cut out the hump in the middle of the floor and the tool box under the driver's seat. I don't have a good photo of the tank, but you can see it in one of the photo above.

246796

246797

246798

great write-up and work scott. this thread personafies one of the reasosn why i love this board and mud; it's always a good thing to see other people's ideas. every build-up is different and everybody comes up with their own ways of doing things. i especially like yours since your ideas are well executed!

sweet!:beer:

Nice work ther scott

Hey, welcome back (too) #143!!!:flipoff2:
Cruiser looks great, after seeing the 'Runner, This one will be awesomer! :)

How long will your rear drive line end up being? I have a single case ToyBox and I did'nt think it was doable.

It'll be about 25-26". I don't remember exactly how much I moved my rear axle back... probably between 2-3". And then I went with the SM420 because it was the shortest thing goin'... I knew going into this I'd have to come up with those inches for the 2nd case somewhere. Are there others here running dual cases in a '40?

Anyone know what the length is for the rear driveshaft of a stock FJ40?

Any specific specs on the Alcans?

If I had the spring specs written down, I've since lost them.

I didn't order by giving them specific lengths or spring rates. For the rear I told Alcan they length should be stock length FJ40 springs, spring pins moved back 2 or 3", 2" lift, and slightly higher spring rate for the extra weight of camping gear, spare parts, more fuel, rear bumper/tire carrier, etc. I'm using a johnny joint rear shackle that was designed for use with a mini truck spring, so I had Alcan make the springs the width of mini truck springs... which are narrower than cruiser springs.

The front springs I think were an inch or two over stock length, spring pins moved forward a couple inches, higher spring rate, and again narrower width to fit the hangers and shackles I got with the mini truck solid axle swap kit I was using. I should go measure my wheelbase. I can't remember was it is.

Anyway, they came out much taller than I expected... but that was the case with my 4Runner as well. I had to take off the bottom two leaves to lower it. Not a big deal because the packs have like 7 or 8 leaves. And if the springs ever sag, I can alway add leaves back in. I was really impressed with with how well they flexed on my 4Runner... I'm sure they'll do great on the FJ40 as well.

http://www.4x4wire.com/gallery/trailshots/4x4_Trailshots/On_the_Trails/California/Rubicon/Toyota_Rubicon_2000/Aut_1483.jpg

http://www.4x4wire.com/gallery/trailshots/4x4_Trailshots/On_the_Trails/California/Rubicon/Toyota_Rubicon_2000/017.jpg

Nice to see you back at it Scott! Its been along time my friend.

We need to hook up one of these days.............

Cruiser looks great!

Kevin Carey

PORPRES@pirate4x4.com

Whats up Kevin!? Hopefully I'll be seeing you on the trail next year!

really enjoying this build... nice work so far :beer:


chris:cool2:

Thanks. Wish I were working on it instead of nursing my shoulder... but it shouldn't be too much longer till I'm back on it again.

Quality build! It is good to have you active on this board.

Scott.................Wilson!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Good to hear from you!!

See you on the trail soon.......

Nice looking build up

More!

So what year Celica calipers did you use on your rear disk setup??

Thanks,

-Scott

So what year Celica calipers did you use on your rear disk setup??

Thanks,

-Scott

Sorry Scott... Its been so long since I sourced them I have no idea. Checking www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com they only say "early Supra" calipers, but don't list which years that includes.

Scott,

Are you better yet??? I wanna see you make so progress on this project....

Nag nag nag...


:p

just tryin to help...

Alright Tim, finally some progress :) It was only 97-degrees in the garage today so I celebrated by getting something done. Its the first day under 100 (in my garage) in a couple weeks.

Today I wanted to decide on the final position of the motor and get the mounts welded in. To start I needed to get my radiator and fans in place since my goal was to have the motor as far forward as reasonable. The radiator didn't fit between the headlight buckets, so they got trimmed.

252077

I like the idea of a hoop to protect the radiator in a roll over, but I think they're pretty ugly. I'm going to instead fab one that fits under the hood instead. If I roll it the sheetmetal will get worked... but it probably would have with an external hoop too... but I'll hopefully still be driving it off the trail.

wngrog beat me to it... my hoop will be pretty similar to what he did. I tipped the radiator toward the motor to give me extra room for the hoop. The final position for the radiator will be about 1" lower.

252080

You like the packing tape radiator fan mounting method? I knew you would.

252081

(Hey admin.... how 'bout changing the BBS settings for images to 640 max width and 640 max height so that vertical images don't have to get shrunk down so much? Right now height is set at max 480.)


Using AA motor mounts. They're not the prettiest, but they got the job done and cleared the headers.

252079

252082

So the motor is finally off the hoist. I reinstalled the intake manifold and wiring harness too.

252083

Here's where the tranny and mini truck cases ended up. I already knew that the SM420 shifter would fight for space with the factory heater, so I'm using a Flex-a-lite Mojave heater which is much smaller.

252084

Next time I'll be working on the Xfer case cross member.

Oh almost forgot... I also worked on my seats a little tonight. I installed these seat heaters in my wife's Durnago this last winter and they worked so great I bought another set for my cruiser seats. Buy yourself some hog ring pliers if you're gonna attempt this install. I was distracted by the TV most of the time... took me 2.5 hours to install the heaters in just one seat. Maybe the other seat will get done tomorrow night.

252086

252087

252088

In a previous post I mentioned the 28 gallon fuel tank I was using, but didn't have a good photo of it...

252089

Very nice job. Love the front axle.

Hey, more progress. This has been a good week.

Today I worked on the xfer case crossmember. When I decided I'd be using Marlin dual cases I went and bought All Pro's crossmember with the parking brake and skid plate. Today (3 years later) I finally unboxed it and installed it.

It was designed to fit a mini truck, so it was far too wide to fit between the FJ40 frame rails. First thing I did was slice it up so I could narrow it.

252419

252420

The stock crossmember had to be cut out and a plate needed to be put over one of the large frame holes and the hole left by the crossmember I removed. Here's a shot of the mounts included with the kit. The kit uses large polyurethane spring eye bushings to isolate the crossmember from the frame.

252421

After narrowing the crossmember everything bolted up nicely. I gave up maybe 1" or 1.5" of height by using the output shaft mounted disc parking brake. It did fit nicely into the hump in the floor though, which is why I didn't loose more. The flat section of (new) floor behind the parking brake is where I modified the floor so I could use the 28 gallon Aussie tank.


252422

I was expecting to have to cut and modify the lever for the parking brake since it didn't have enough room to clear the frame after I narrowed the crossmember, but when I mocked it up, the lever swung into the oval shaped hole in the frame. :eek: I thought that was too cool to ignore, so I'm thinking I may not modify the lever and just run my parking brake cable up the frame rail. Should be pretty cool.

252423

The skid plate bolts into the holes in the Xfer cases for the stock mini truck crossmember mount and also to the crossmember itself.

252424

I'm hanging about 3" below the frame rails in the lowest spot. I may someday create a belly pan, but for now I plan to run it as it is.

252425

Nice job

nice

Well I started on the Metal Tech fenders. The tube kit is great... the bends match the curves of the aprons very nicely. Expect to spend some time cutting each piece to length and notching where needed... that said borrow, beg, steal, or just go buy yourself a notcher. I was lucky enough to borrow one. It really made the job a lot easier.

Also, the kit includes no mounts, so make sure you have steel on hand to creat those. I copied the suggested mounts for the frame mount and the tub to fender mount. The first is just a 4" wide plate with holes in it. The later is a section of 1" angle iron. For my bib/fender mount I cut a piece of 3/16" plate about 1.5" wide... then stuck it in my press to put a 45* bend in it, and bolted it to the side of the bib.

Tomorrow I'll cut some sheetmetal and put a skin over the top of it.

A big thanks to Mark at Metal Tech. I screwed up on the first fender and needed two of the tubes in my kit replaced. He charged me a fair price and said he'd get 'em right to me so I could finish up the second fender soon.

252797

252798

252799

252800

252801

252802

252803

The inner tube is not in line with the apron intensionally. If I had the tube travel right under the apron I would not have been able to use the holes in the apron to attach it to the fender, and would have had to fab different mounts to tie the apron onto the fender. It was just easier to have the inner tube to be on a different line.

252804

252805

Scott,

Looking great...I spent the last week at Mammoth screwing around and leave tommorow for the second half of our vacation..lookin forward to getting back and working on the truck again...keep up the great work..you are the man....

I am ordering those fenders. How hard in your opinion would it be to incorporate the old inner fender ?

Thanks Tim. Have a good vacation.

Peesalot... I was glad to see that '40 tub out of my truck and in yours. :p

I was thinking the same thing about inner fenders while at the swap meet today. Its not like they're gonna bolt right up... but fabing some inner fenders, or modifying the stock inner fenders to work is going to be easier than building the tube fenders was. I probably won't get to the inner fenders in the next few days, but I'll post something when I get it done.

Ah , that was you with Phil. Where did you grow up ?

Santa Clara

In a previous post I mentioned the 28 gallon fuel tank I was using, but didn't have a good photo of it...

252089


Can you get me a part # for this tank? I am totally interested in getting one.

Dima

Can you get me a part # for this tank? I am totally interested in getting one.

Dima

I can't seem to find it on Specters web site. I wonder if they stopped importing them (??). I can't find my invoice either.

I did find the install instructions from the manufacturer. Here is their info...

Longrange Automotive
Factory 1, 6-7 Industry Crt, Lilydale VIC 3140
PH: 03 9739 5667

When I first put the front axle together it was a seriously rushed job, and I skipped some details. We just sold our house, and bought another 30 miles away. I was just trying to get the thing rolling to make the move easier. So anyway, I spent most of Friday tearing the axle down and taking care of the things I didn't have time to do the first time. I also took two leaves off the bottom of each spring pack... the 40 was way too tall. Its closer to where I want it now.

I cut out the drain plug and welded in a patch. A 2 1/8" hole saw makes this job a quick one. I welded in the patch from both sides.

253434

My inner axles shafts hadn't arrived when I first put the axle together, so I finally installed the inner shafts with Spicer 5-332X u-joints

253435

I also welded on the truss Marlin supplied with the axle.

253439

It had been over 3 years since I assembled the axle, and the truck sat out in the weather for a couple of those years... so I gave it a fresh coat of rattle can black.

253440

My steering arms are out for work right now... they weren't tapered deep enough for the tie rod ends. Once I put the castle nut on I couldn't get the cotter pin though the hole. I also am having a flat pitman arm tapered for the Chevy tie rod end. I started with a drop arm that I got for cheap... but to have a level draglink angle I needed an arm with zero drop.

253441

Here's one more.

253443

hmm, this looks familiar :D :D great job. 40 is coming together nicely.



I cut out the drain plug and welded in a patch. A 2 1/8" hole saw makes this job a quick one. I welded in the patch from both sides.

253434
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=253434&d=1152478335

hmm, this looks familiar :D :D great job. 40 is coming together nicely.

yeah, I should have just borrowed one of your photos :laughing:

I can't seem to find it on Specters web site. I wonder if they stopped importing them (??). I can't find my invoice either.

I did find the install instructions from the manufacturer. Here is their info...

Longrange Automotive
Factory 1, 6-7 Industry Crt, Lilydale VIC 3140
PH: 03 9739 5667

It'a Man-A-Fre import.
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/fj40fueltanklr28gal.htm

A bit more expensive than the last time I checked.

Phil

Ah , that was you with Phil. Where did you grow up ?

Slower than you John. It wasn't until Sunday that I realized swilson was the same guy that GAVE ME all the cool old switches and cables from his early cruiser at the swapmeet. THANKS AGAIN SCOTT!

I think your version of the MetalTech fenders is the nicest I've seen so far. Very true to factory form and almost begging for the inner skirts, like John alluded to.

I'd like to find somebody willing to assemble and skin a pair JUST LIKE YOURS for my 40. Interested?

Slower than you John. It wasn't until Sunday that I realized swilson was the same guy that GAVE ME all the cool old switches and cables from his early cruiser at the swapmeet. THANKS AGAIN SCOTT!

You're welcome Mark. I was happy to learn what the FD knob was for :)


I think your version of the MetalTech fenders is the nicest I've seen so far. Very true to factory form and almost begging for the inner skirts, like John alluded to.

I'd like to find somebody willing to assemble and skin a pair JUST LIKE YOURS for my 40. Interested?

Thanks for the comments. I wish I had time to put together some fenders for you, but I'm really under the gun to finish my 40... only 6 months till my 2nd kid arrives... then I can say goodbye to garage-time for awhile. :p

Mark , if you play nice about the missing drum stuff I could prolly get a set of those done fer you. We will be ordering 3 kits from Mark H and I bet a fourth would capture us a decent discount. We are currently out of stock on donor fenders for the inner skirts so if you know of any in the area just PM me and I will get a hold of em.

Nice work:smokin: Really enjoyed catching up on your progress. I too, like the way you did the fenders. Have your explored graphing(spl?) in expanded sheet metal for inners? I see more mods on my rig in the future.
Take it easy, and yes garage time w/ a second kid does deminish significantly. However, they're worth it.
Campy:cool2:

Nice work:smokin: Really enjoyed catching up on your progress. I too, like the way you did the fenders. Have your explored graphing(spl?) in expanded sheet metal for inners? I see more mods on my rig in the future.
Take it easy, and yes garage time w/ a second kid does deminish significantly. However, they're worth it.
Campy:cool2:

Expanded metal is an option... but its still gonna let mud splash though into the engine compartment and make a huge mess of things. I'm guessing I'll use sheetmetal.

Yeah, My 2 year old keeps me busy, but she's a lot of fun.

Expanded metal is an option... but its still gonna let mud splash though into the engine compartment and make a huge mess of things. I'm guessing I'll use sheetmetal.

Yeah, My 2 year old keeps me busy, but she's a lot of fun.

Sheetmetal: I hear ya, just to kick it around.. how about perferated small hole?

What advantage does it give you? Except maybe more air moving around the motor on the highway.

True and to be different.:smokin:

Well my passenger fender now has a matching driver's side fender :D I forgot to take a picture of it though.

I also cut the skin for the passenger fender and got it installed. Now I know why Metal Tech doesn't sell these pre-fabbed. What a @#$%*&^ lot of work!!!! The worst of it is grinding the perimeter of the skin.... and I still have to look forward to grinding down the driver's side.... oh joy!

So here's what it looks like....

254381

254382

254383

254384

254385

The gap below the apron is better than it looks in the photo... I just got lazy bolting the thing up and didn't take the time to align all the panels.

254386

254387

I dig it... These are really gonna look slick when I get the '40 painted.


I'm still thinking I'll do something for inner fenders... thats a whole lotta exposed engine compartment.

254388

So what do you guys think about some sort of black plastic inner fenders? I could use some of those quarter turn connectors that the buggy guys use to attach their fiberglass bodies to the chassis. (???)

Scott, I cannot sit back and drool anymore. Talked to peesalot today and pulled the trigger on getting a set of these too!

We're gonna try and see if we can reuse the stock inner skirts somehow, to try and keep as much of the stock look as possible. Course, I suppose it's also a good idea to minimize the use of plastic near exhaust manifolds too!

We should be getting started next week, and if there's anything worth posting...............we'll hijack your thread!:flipoff2:

Ya ill put some inner fenders on it so dirt and stuff cant go in it, But anyways killer frenders

Scott, I cannot sit back and drool anymore. Talked to peesalot today and pulled the trigger on getting a set of these too!

Nice... even better if you don't have to assemble them :D


I suppose it's also a good idea to minimize the use of plastic near exhaust manifolds too!

You just have to buy the right stuff... most modern cars have plastic inner fenders now-a-days. Heck, even my intake manifold on my CSB is plastic... that one still amazes me.

How thick is that sheet metal?
Thanks

I bought that sheetmetal a loooong time ago, and don't remember what gauge it was. Its slightly thicker than the body on my '66 FJ40. Hope that helps.

Finished the drivers side fender today.

254509

254511

While I'm here... what is this hole for?

254512

nice build up! where did you buy your seat heater filaments at?? I am doing an fj55 project and want to add these to the bench seats.....

Noah

Well my passenger fender now has a matching driver's side fender :D I forgot to take a picture of it though.

I also cut the skin for the passenger fender and got it installed. Now I know why Metal Tech doesn't sell these pre-fabbed. What a @#$%*&^ lot of work!!!! The worst of it is grinding the perimeter of the skin.... and I still have to look forward to grinding down the driver's side.... oh joy!



http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/7189/fenderzs5.jpg

Dude you got right to work man! Holy smoke you did not even crack open the padded envelope with the stickers and Toyota Trails! You got a set of the new MT stickers.

Outstanding job on the build! The fenders look great and well done with the skins. You are right the #1 reason I don’t offer them on the web site pre-built is the shear amount of time the take to build properly. I do commissioned builds from time to time, but they are not cheep.

Regarding Peesalot group buy on fender kits I told him I would post up information regarding the kits. I don’t want to total hijack this thread so here one with the info on the fenders:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5693674#post5693674

Mark

nice build up! where did you buy your seat heater filaments at?? I am doing an fj55 project and want to add these to the bench seats.....

Noah

I bought them from a seller on Ebay named 'digitalparts'. The product was sweet, but his customer service SUCKED... shipping was very slow, and communication was zilch.

In my wife's Durango I installed these...at Jegs.com (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=25461). They're good quality, and made by the same manufacturer as the other ones, but are a different model. The heater pads were a little smaller and the switches didn't have the LEDs in them like the model I got off ebay.

Make sure you get some hog rings and pliers if you don't already have some.

Looks nice buddy...........

Let me know when you are ready for a shakedown run to the Con!

Kevin Carey

Looks great! Wish I had the time to turn out such a fine pig as yours. It's one fine piece of work.

See you on the trail next season Kevin!

Thanks for the comments maddog.

Today I had some tubing bent up for my radiator hoop... it will fit behind the front bib and will also support the radiator. I didn't want an external hoop... I like the way FJ40s look without all kinds of tubing in front of the grill.

255230

I also had the same shop TIG weld an aluminum bung in the side of my radiator. Gen III Vortec motors require a radiator with this "steam port" that connects to the throttle body.

255231

I'll put in a plug for Chilcote Fabrication in Morgan Hill, CA. (408) 776-8684. I dropped in on them unannounced around 10am today. They took a break from their other (bigger) projects and cranked out my pieces in 2 hours. Nice.

Its supposed to be over 100-degrees for at least the next week, so unless I get into the garage really early tomorrow morning this won't be installed anytime soon.

Oh... my High Angle drive shafts came in too... but its too hot to bolt them in.

255232

Well I beat some of the heat and got into the garage early today. Its 109-degrees outside right now... My garage must be 115.

Today I fab'd mounts for the radiator hoop, got the hoop cut down to size and then made some more mounts that tie it in with the fenders. Whatcha think?

Next I'll mount the radiator, and then add another little hoop on top of the first since the radiator is taller than this first main hoop.

255386

255387

255388

255389

255394

255391

255392

255393

i like it a lot :smokin: great idea

That's pretty sweet way to protect your radiator and tie it into the tube fenders. Great idea :beer:

Haven't accomplished much this week... this heatwave has been brutal.

I started looking at mounting the front shocks and realized there was no room to mount them onto the axle tube. I bought some thicker u-bolt plates and some shock mounts from RuffStuff and welded them together. Easy fix.

256018

256019

[QUOTE=swilson]

Today I had some tubing bent up for my radiator hoop... it will fit behind the front bib and will also support the radiator. I didn't want an external hoop... I like the way FJ40s look without all kinds of tubing in front of the grill.

[/QUOTE=swilson]

Scott, are you planning to tie the top of your shock towers into this radiator hoop as well? IIRC, Mace has that setup on his 40, and it looked simple and effective.

Seems like you'd want to detour and finish working out the logistics on the shocks before getting back to the fender skirts, eh?

I plan to use the Ford shock towers. They'll be only an inch or so from the fender's verticle support. I do plan to tie the top of the shock tower into the fender support... probably not into the radiator support... but we'll see.

I'm moving ahead with my plastic inner fenders idea. I bought the quarter turn connectors and a sheet of flexible black ABS plastic. Once I get the shocks in place and also my battery boxes... then I'll see how well the plastic works for me. If it doesn't, I'm only out $20 in plastic and I'm sure I can use the quarter turn fasteners someplace else.

Do you think using the 1/4 turn connectors with steel instead of the plastic is a bad idea? I've been thinking about this scenario more today, and the idea is growing on me that maybe at least part of the inner skirt could be left removable.

I'm thinking that anchoring the forward skin [the one around the shock tower] would help to make sure no counter-currents keep the air from moving into the engine compartment thru the radiator. However, I also think there might be situations [like on the hwy in this friggin summer heat] where it might be handy to be able to remove the rear section [the diagonal that parallels the frame] to give cooler road air more access to the undercarraige, and hotter radiator air a chance to mix with that cooler air BEFORE it hits the floorboards.

Remind me again what your ETA is for roadworthiness.;)

...While I'm here... what is this hole for?

254512


Speedo cable came through a rubber grommet there

Do you think using the 1/4 turn connectors with steel instead of the plastic is a bad idea?

I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Remind me again what your ETA is for roadworthiness.;)

Depends on what year you ask me...
in 2001 I would have answered "2002"
in 2002 I would have answered "2003"
get the picture? :shaking:

I'm determined to have it done around January 2007... that is when my 2nd kid will be born. I think I can meet the Jan '07 deadline.

Speedo cable came through a rubber grommet there

THANKS!

Doing a great job keep up the good work. Fenders look great

Doing a great job keep up the good work. Fenders look great


x2....... nicely executed


chris:cool2:

Jesus christ , now you want the skirt removable , you are very high maintenance.

All skirts should be removable... same goes for bras.

All skirts should be removable... same goes for bras.



:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


chris:cool2:

I got the front shock towers done this evening. I used the Ford shock towers, but to get the height I needed, I couldn't just mount them on the side of the frame rails. I cut a piece of 1/4" wall 4"x4" box for the support on the back of the shock tower. Then I cut some 3/16" plate to lengthen the sides of the shock tower so it continues to the bottom of the FJ40 frame.

I originally thought I'd tie the top of the shock tower into the verticle fender support for extra support... but I'm very satisfied with the strength of the towers as they sit now... no need to tie them into the fenders.

The shocks are Rancho 9012's. Plenty of travel, right price... do you really need those crazy polished aluminum body, 36" travel, remote resevior, gotta take out a 3rd mortgage to pay for them shocks anyway? Besides, I'll have enough bling once my chromed one-off 24" DUB bead-locks arrive next week.

256557

256558

256559

256560

BTW, nice work on the fenders....

I like the way you started you thread - "been a lurker..." I have too but now I am getting closer to posting pics.

great job -- I am going to review this thread for some ideas...

I live in Morgan Hill also - by Chesbro lake -- I would love to check out your Fj one of these days.

Paul

Wireguy, thanks for the feedback. PM'd ya.

Just like the rear axle, I was pressed for time and had to skip some things when I first got the chassis rolling, so this week I took care of them. I pulled the rear axle back out and ground off all the factory brackets. I finally set the pinion angle and welded the spring perches in place. edit: I shaved the drain plug the same way I did on the front axle.

I'm using the factory spring hanger for the rear axle, but the springs are the narrower mini truck width... I welded a 1/4" plate inside the spring hanger to make it the width I needed. I also wasn't using the FJ40 spring pins, so another 1/4" plate on the outside of the spring hang covered the very large hole for the factory spring pin and let me use a greasable bolt. While I was there I gussetted the spring hangers.

Sorry for the focus issues...

257171

257172

While I had the rear axle out I created mounts for my traction bar. I haven't fabbed the traction bar yet.

257173

257174

I ran out of time today, so the rear shocks will have to wait until next time.

Wireguy, thanks for the feedback. PM'd ya.

Just like the rear axle, I was pressed for time and had to skip some things when I first got the chassis rolling, so this week I took care of them. I pulled the rear axle back out and ground off all the factory brackets. I finally set the pinion angle and welded the spring perches in place.

I'm using the factory spring hanger for the rear axle, but the springs are the narrower mini truck width... I welded a 1/4" plate inside the spring hanger to make it the width I needed. I also wasn't using the FJ40 spring pins, so another 1/4" plate on the outside of the spring hang covered the very large hole for the factory spring pin and let me use a greasable bolt. While I was there I gussetted the spring hangers.

Sorry for the focus issues...

257171

257172

While I had the rear axle out I created mounts for my traction bar. I haven't fabbed the traction bar yet.

257173

257174

I ran out of time today, so the rear shocks will have to wait until next time.


What wheelbase you have. Stock ?

Lookin Good Scott...keep up the good work..

What wheelbase you have. Stock ?

Nope. 95.5"

What is the stock wheelbase for an FJ40 anyway?

I think 90, if so its only 5.5 longer

The rear shocks are finally done. I used 2x2", 1/4" wall box for all the mounts. I put an 8" section of tubing (split in half) onto of the factory crossmember to raise my mounting point. Then I cut up another section of tubing and tack welded nuts the back side of it to mount the shocks to. When the body comes off for paint I'll box-in the ends of that upper mount.

257360

For the lower mounts I sliced up some more pieces of 2x2" box tube and welded in the stud that comes with new shocks from both sides. I thought about boxing in the mounts for just for aestetics, but in the end I decided they're fine as they are.

257361

And no baggin' on my pigeon toed front end :flipoff2: My steering arms are finally back, so I'm going to go bolt then in right now.

257362

looking good, great buildup

too cool swilson, nice build up.. PS Mark those fenders are awesome!

Does anyone know if clutch inspection covers for SM420s are still available from GM? My tranny was missing the cover, so I started asking around and found that its a super rare part and everyone is looking for them... which lead me to believe they're long since discontinued... but I never did check to see if they're avaible new.

Anyway... here's what I do know. I found a new clutch inspection cover for sale on ebay for a Saginaw tranny of a similar vintage as the SM420 and took a gamble and bought it. The GM part number is visible in the photo. Its a nice fit... after some easy trimming. You can see in the first photo the area that was trimmed away... it used to go straight across. All 4 mounting holes lined up with the SM420 holes... and after a little trimming, the fit was excellent. There was still a small area that wasn't enclosed, opposite of the starter. I trimmed a piece of aluminum to finish the enclosure.

258376

258377

258378

I also got started on the exhaust today. I bought some mandrel U-bends, straight pipe, and various flanges from my local muffler shop and I'm fabricating my own exhaust. Since the displacement isn't huge on this motor (4.8L) I'm not going overboard on the exhaust. 2" off each header till they combine to a single 2.5" all the way out.

At the advice of the muffler shop I'm shooting some paint on my welds to keep them from rusting... the pipe won't rust since its aluminized.

The Y-pipe was the only part of this job that worried me, but I think you'll agree it came out nice. I combined a straight 2" pipe & a 90-degree 2" mandrel bend and with a little reshaping using only a hammer, I got the 2.5" diameter I needed for the rest of the exhaust. I also welded in the O2 sensor bungs.

Tomorrow I'll finish it off... should be fast, the hard work is done.

258379

258380

258381

258382

:smokin: :smokin: :smokin:



chris:cool2:

Thanks Chris.

I finished it off today. I'm really pleased with it. This was the first time I've tried my hand at making my own exhaust. If you're considering doing this, go for it. Its not too difficult, you just need some patience. In the end you'll have a better fitting exhaust since you can run the pipe exactly where you want... rather than hoping the exhaust shop understood how you wanted it built. Plus it'll flow better since its all made with mandrel bends.

The only hard part was the y-pipe, and if you don't think you can do it, the muffler shop will be able to order you a pre-fabbed y-pipe.

258457

258458

258459

258460

258461

any updates? :D :D

Shane

I wish there were. I haven't turned a wrench on it since I got back to work. It'll be about another month before work will slow down enough for me to get back on the cruiser. I'm still planning on going to Surf n Turf though.

the fenders look great. :D

can't wait to see it finished , I miss my FJ40:(

I wish there were. I haven't turned a wrench on it since I got back to work. It'll be about another month before work will slow down enough for me to get back on the cruiser. I'm still planning on going to Surf n Turf though.

whatcha bringing to SNT?

Shane

I'll be in my F250...
267697

Looking forward to this trip.

Things at work are finally getting back to normal... hopefully I'll be able to find a few hours each week to work on the '40 now. Today I finally got the radiator mounted. I used 8 high-temp rubber pieces (sourced from Custom Cruiser FJ40) to isolate the aluminum radiator from the steel mounts.

I figured out how I want to mount my electric fans... its gonna require TIG welding some aluminum tabs to the radiator, so I'll have to find some time to visit a fabrication shop to TIG it for me.

Looking forward to Surf N Turf. We'll be rolling in Friday... hopefully before 9pm.

269941

269942

269943

269944

Today I had a shop TIG weld aluminum flanges onto my radiator so I could mount the fans the way I wanted. I used Deral fans I got through Summit Racing. These pulled more CFMs and were thinner than any comparable fans I could find. They were designed to have the fans side by side... I took them a part, cut the shrouds so they fit together off-set, and bolted them back together. Then I used the built in slots with the aluminum flanges I had added and bolted the fans up to the radiator.

271351

271352

271353

271354

271355

Lookin good:smokin:

Bout time you started workin on that thing again...you are running out of time there soon to be new dad!!!

Looks awesome, I like your work, its very clean and K.I.S.S.

Are you planning on closing in the open spots on your radiator shroud?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=271351&d=1162878888

I think it might help pull more air through the radiator

There are two small gaps created when I cut the shrouds a part and off set them... those small gaps will get closed up so the fans aren't recirculating any air. But as far as the open areas where the shroud doesn't cover... at least for now they will stay open. These fans pull a ridiculous amount of CFMs... I'll run it as is and if it turns out it has cooling issues then I'll rethink my shroud.

Thanks for the comments

Looks awesome, I like your work, its very clean and K.I.S.S.



x2!:smokin: If that works out well [and I have a feeling it will] that looks marketable.

:)

looks awesome man. giving me alot of good ideas on what i want to build next.

keep postin pics :smokin:

Baby steps...

Bought some 4" elbows so I could attach the mass airflow sensor and filter as high as possible.
281109

281110

With the SM420 I had very little room left for the heater. I bought a Flex-a-lite Mojave heater since they're so small. Plus it is a heater core and blower all in one, which saves even more room under the hood.

Then I took out all the pieces for the cowl vent (since I won't have one... just a good place for rust to start and leaves to get stuck), cut out one of the reinforcement pieces behind the dash, and tucked the heater up as high as I could.

For mounting I just made brackets so I could use the factory mounting holes.

281111

281112

281113

After experiencing a friend's Deckers's Hot Water Shower on the 'con a few years back, I had to put one on my FJ40. I used a plumbing mount from the hardware store to mount the heat exchanger.

281117

Awhile back I started looking for a solution to putting a VSS in the drivetrain since my Vortec computer is setup to use one. Unless you're using the correct GM tranny (with the provision for a VSS built into it) or using certain Xfer cases where you can add one with some effort... you're outta luck.

I finally thought of mouting my VSS externally... and figured out I could get the 40 pulse per revolution signal from the All Pro disk parking brake I was using if I had a new rotor cut.

I paid a local laser cutting shop $100 for the layout work and cutting the rotor. Then I had it zinc plated. It came out pretty slick, and should work well.

281118

thats good tech. Where did you get the 4" 90's ?

Scott....Looks great ....keep it up...

thats good tech. Where did you get the 4" 90's ?

Look on ebay

That disc/reluctor is a hell of an idea. I think it would be marketable.

thats good tech. Where did you get the 4" 90's ?

Got them from http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com

I couldn't find anyone with black ones in stock... though I see there is a guy on Ebay selling black ones right now. Oh well, I'm stuck with Rice Racer blue.

I have used intakehoses.com for those parts.

That disc/reluctor is a hell of an idea. I think it would be marketable.

Thanks. If anyone wants to sell it, feel free. I'm just thrilled to have a solution... and happy to share it in case it solves a problem for anyone else. I installed it today. I'm very pleased with it. I need to fab a mount for the VSS now, but I'll probably put it off until I take the tub off for paint.

281474

Cruiser work has been slow lately... probably has something to do with lack of sleep. My 2nd daughter was born Jan 19. :D

Lately I've been filling more holes in the body... both factory holes I'm not using and previous owner created holes. Why do PO's insist on drilling so many holes?
285521

The firewall has the most holes to fill.
285522

I really should have taken a before-photo of the bizzar hack job the PO did to the A-pillar where the door opening limiter attaches. I have no idea why, it looked like he took tin snips and cut all around the hole and then took a hammer to what was left. WHY!!!??? It took some work get the new sheet metal welded in, along with the factory bracket welded to the backside of the A-pillar.
285523

Finally patched the old holes in the tranny tunnel and cut my new shifter holes. I'm thinking cutting off the caged nuts that the factory used to attach the tunnel... they just seem like a great place for rust to hide. A couple of them had to be cut off just to remove the tunnel since the bolts/nuts were rusted together. I tought I'd replace them with nutserts. Anyone got a better idea?
285524

The biggest patch was the cowl vent. Again... just seemed like a great place to catch leaves and for rust to start. Beneath the dash I removed all the hardware for the cowl vent, which gave me more room for mounting the Mojave Heater.

285527

285528

285529

That fuel cell is interesting. 28 gallons works for me! Thanks for all the photos and keep up the great work.

Scott,

Keep up the good work.... Congrats and thanks for the pics....

It didn't exactly bolt right up :D but my Ford SuperDuty hydroboost is now on the firewall. The firewall looked like swiss cheese... 3 holes for the original MC, 4 holes for whatever MC was on there before I bought it, and 4 more holes I put in it for the hydroboost unit. Needless to say, the new bolt pattern was by far the biggest. I welded up all the old holes and smoothed out the firewall before the hydroboost went on.

For anyone not familiar with hydroboost, it uses hydraulic pressure supplied by the power steering pump for brake boost and offers much greater power than a vacuum setup.

286241

286242

I went to install the clutch MC I had bought any couldn't find it. I guess I'll be buying another. Are certain years better than others?

how much did that hydroboost setup run, if you don't mind me asking?
looks great to me...

malphrus

My 2nd daughter was born Jan 19. :D

Congrats!

Awesome build. :smokin:

I can't find the receipt for it... and I bought it nearly 2 years ago. Its been sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed.

I got it from Santa Clara Truck Wreckers (408) 727-2244.

The other cool thing about it I forgot to mention.... you don't need to cut the reinforcement off the firewall on the late model cruisers to make room for a vacuum booster... or have to run any adapter to space a vacuum booster off the firewall. I did make a cut through the reinforcement to clear a hydraulic line, but I went way overboard and will be welding it back up. It really only needed a cut the size of a fingernail to clear the hydraulic line. Other than that the hydroboost setup clears the reinforcement rib.

Congrats!

Awesome build. :smokin:


Thanks! :D Now if she'd only let us sleep through the night... sigh.

Got my dash finished up, minus the wiring of course. The aluminum plate was inspired by the one Jack Rice made for his truggy. It won't stay aluminum color, it'll be painted or powder coated. I filled all holes including the ash tray hole.

286592

I didn't realize I was going 40 MPH... hmmm. :rolleyes:

286593

286594

Scott, something about my size 13 feet made me cringe when I saw the placement of your gas pedal.:eek: That looks even tighter than the stock location. What was your motivation for putting it there















...............other than making sure I never steal your truck!:flipoff2:

All I can say is, pedal placement is still evolving :D

I love your build. The detail is amazing!

I must admit...I'm going to steal your dash.




The idea that is:D

I'm surprised you haven't put a Can-Back topper and swilson-bilt custom tire carrier on it yet...slacker!

Hi Scott!

I'm surprised you haven't put a Can-Back topper and swilson-bilt custom tire carrier on it yet...slacker!

Hi Scott!

Holy smokes, its Jim Brink! And you're on the wrong side of the country now! And you wheel a.... RAV4? :shaking: PM on the way

I love your build. The detail is amazing!

I must admit...I'm going to steal your dash.


Hey thanks for the comments. Its yours for the stealing... 'specially since I ripped it off from Jack's truggy. :D

Looks great Scott! very nice work on the bezel! :smokin:

nice job scott! Ive been following your build for awile. I also have a 66 fj 40. can you pm me w/ a contact # I wanted to pick your brain about your hydroboost set up and stuff. Your instrument panel is killer.. Is that an overlay you bolted on or welded? Did you make or buy it? Anyway, thanks for the inspriation you do nice work. :evil:

Nice work! Where did you find that tailgate?

nice job scott! Ive been following your build for awile. I also have a 66 fj 40. can you pm me w/ a contact # I wanted to pick your brain about your hydroboost set up and stuff. Your instrument panel is killer.. Is that an overlay you bolted on or welded? Did you make or buy it? Anyway, thanks for the inspriation you do nice work.

Thanks. Its bolted on. I made it. Started with posterboard, transferred that to steel, then decided I wanted it thicker... so I got a sheet of aluminum. Once it was cut out I put a radius around the edge using a flap disc on an angle grinder, then a file, and finished it up with a dremmel with a sanding drum.

I'll PM you about the hydroboost.

Nice work! Where did you find that tailgate?

Its made by Aqualu (http://www.aqualu.com), I sourced mine from Rocky Mountain Cruisers (http://www.rockymountaincruisers.com).

Nice build. It's nice to see ya putting in the time on cleaning up all the little things. Makes me think of all the little things I bi-passed so I could wheel. Now I need to spend a TON of time to clean up my build. :rolleyes:

Here's what the new hydroboost bolt pattern looks like beside stock master cylinder bolt pattern (same as the clutch MC bolt pattern)
287037

Boy did I goof when I cut the rib on the firewall. Tonight I welded the piece back in and with only a slight bend in the firewall rib it cleared the hydraulic line.
287038

287039

if it helps, good cheap source of hydroboost these days is out of some "M" series GM vans, astros, Safaris, etc. Setup looks almost identical to your power stroke. I got mine for $40 at pick n pull, seems hydroboosters seldom fail as far as I can tell...

Looks great, I wouldn't give up the ash tray on mine. I love it for holding extra valve cores and fuses.

Mounted the PS cooler today.
287279

This was a big moment for me... I've actually never seen this cruiser with the windshield and hood on since I bought it in pieces. I'll have to work on aligning the panels a bit more tomorrow.
287280

And yes... the cage in back is a hint of things to come :D I liked the back half of the cage that came with my FJ40, but the front half didn't cut it. I bought a Metal Tech front cage kit and will be putting it on the back half of my existing cage.

287281

287282

Why did you build the grill hoop so much lower than the radiator? I would be worried about it getting squished in a rollover or something.

Oh and that dash is sick!!!!

Why did you build the grill hoop so much lower than the radiator? I would be worried about it getting squished in a rollover or something.

The radiator hoop isn't done. I couldn't finish the top hoop until the hood was on... and the hood just went on yesterday.

Oh and that dash is sick!!!!

Thanks :grinpimp:

Battery trays went in today. Welded 'em into the Metal Tech Fenders. Blue Torch Fab makes some cool stuff.

287456

287457

287458

Minor update on the 28 gallon Aussie tank. Modified the filler spout to fit. The instructions claim its as easy as cutting the stock filler shorter and rotating it a bit. Ha! The reality was I had to cut the end of the stock filler 3/8" shorter, lengthen it 1/2" (be welding in some new tubing) before the bend, and rotate it.

Not a huge deal... but if you're installing this tank, don't expect the filler to be an easy install.

287459

Amazing build....would love the chance to bend up such a clean build....thought I'd throw a killer company out there for your rubber intake hoses http://store.airflo.com/rubber-hoses---clamps.html

Good job man , your pics give idea for me !!

:)

Worked on the cage today. Spent hours with the grinder removing the welds from where I removed the front half of the cage.

287626

Then I welded in some sheetmetal boxes I made for the corners. Each box will hold a 6x9" speaker and a 2" round LED light. The front of the cage will have a box housing 2 more 6x9s and two more LED lights.

287627

ohh, like those speaker mounts. do you have any other pics of them being built? i might have to steel that idea :D

Shane

I didn't snap any before shots of the boxes. They started off as a square of sheetmetal... then I notched 2 (opposite) corners and cut out the speaker hole. Then I paid a fab shop a few bucks to bend them on their press brake, right along the white lines.

287632

You've been busy.... :)

You've made a lot of progress lately. Casey's letting you get some work done, eh? Or is it extra motivation at the prospect of going back to work soon:D

Your Cruiser is turning out to be one of the most well-thought out and cleanest fabwork Cruisers I've ever seen. :cool2:

Phil

You've been busy.... :)

You've made a lot of progress lately. Casey's letting you get some work done, eh? Or is it extra motivation at the prospect of going back to work soon:D

Your Cruiser is turning out to be one of the most well-thought out and cleanest fabwork Cruisers I've ever seen. :cool2:

Phil

Thanks Phil! Yeah... combination of knowing this is my last week off work & Jenn watching the kids and letting me hide in the garage all day. Your sig line kills me! :D

Here's some teaser pics. I'm going back to the garage to add more tube. :D

287929

287930

287931

287932

287933

Here's how it turned out. I'm happy with the Metal Tech cage... I'd definately use them again if I had to do it all over again.

The two shelves on the back of the cage will be attached with nutserts, so the shelves will be easily removable. I have a bench seat for the back... so that shelf can go in when I don't need the back seat. Short trips I don't have to bother with shelves at all. Flexibility was the name of the game. And those shelves were also why I wanted to stick with the plain, boxy looking rear half of the cage.

I still need to fab up the sheetmetal console for the front of the cage. It'll hold two more LED lights, 2 speakers, the stereo, and the CB. The center two tubes will get welded in when the sheet metal goes in.

287998

287999

288000

Wow... I can finally sit behind the wheel of my cruiser. Even my wife got excited about the seats going in :p

I had a local shop bend up the tube between the A & B bars. I realize I sacraficed a little strength putting the 90-degree joint in it, but my priority was keeping the bar as low as possible to make getting in/out easier.

The seat mounts are just a simple ladder... 1" x 2" tubing across, 1/4" plate running along the seat rails. I hung the ladder from the tube with more 1/4" plate.

289791

289792

289793

289794

Awsome seat cage, very clean. How was the head room after getting them bolted in?

I'm definately up there. Fits me fine at 5'10"... but someone over 6' probably would be too close to the cage.

Rear seat went in today. This is a seat sold by Tom's Broncos. I learned about it from another cruiser head who posted about it here or on IH8MUD. Its a really nice fit... the wheel wells are just wide enough for it.

At least on my '66 the forward seat mounts sat on the flat area of the floor... and with minor modification the rear latch was changed so that it too sat on a flat area.

I mounted it just far enough back that I could get the seat to fold all the way forward with my front seats all the way back.

289886

289887

289888

289889

289890

289891

289892

Looking good, Scott.
How difficult is it to remove the rear seat entirely?
With it folded all the way forward, you won't be able to use your lower cargo tray. Maybe another tray mount up a little higher?

Time for a new avatar pic dude....:D

Phil

Pull one E-clip from each side of the seat and it can be slid out of the mounts. If I need a flat floor, I can pull two bolts and the rear seat mount can be removed.

I won't be reworking the shelf... the seat will get pulled when I'm using the shelf.

Nice work on the cage :)

Nice work on the cage :)

Same to you guys :D

Today I did the first half door. Similar to what many people have already done. Used 2" exhaust tubing split in half for the top edge. Just need to fill the hole where the window regulator used to go and the round hole above it.

290162

290163

290164

I rounded the edge on the end to hopefully prevent bruised elbows. I filled all the unused holes including the hole for the lock.

290165

290167

got any shots of the tubing from the inside?
esp. where the door takes those little bends...

looks great

malphrus

Here are a couple. If you need more I can take more for you. I used a hammer & dolly to flatten out the edge so that it was a straight edge that would line up with the tubing easily.

290183

290184

Nice touch on the doors!Did you split the tube with a porta -band or do you have a metal cutting verticle bandsaw?

thanks for the extra pics...the doors look great.


malphrus

Those doors are great! I like all the roundedness.

Nice touch on the doors!Did you split the tube with a porta -band or do you have a metal cutting verticle bandsaw?

Thanks!

I used an air cut-off wheel. I just followed the natural discoloration lines in the tubing, made it easy to have a straight cut. I'd love to get a band saw, but my garage is full... maybe when the FJ40 is done I'll build a bigger garage :D

I thought about splitting the tube with the plasma cutter, but figured I'd get a much straighter cut with the cut off wheel.

sweet doors.


Erics

I love this build thread thanks swilson ... Got any left over passenger wing windows with parts :D

This thread makes me want to quit and go home and work on my cruiser :(

arndog

Did the cage to frame tie-ins today. Didn't have time to clean the crappy weld.

296143

296144

296145

Those doors look good. I'm taking notes for mine.

Nice build. Gives me lots of motivation for my FJ40. I like the rear seat. How tall did it end up making your 40? I am still in the disassemble stage so I am a ways to go, but seeking ideas.

Thanks!

The height really isn't decided yet... Still have a bunch of weight to add. Front bumper and winch, rear bumper w/swing out, and 28 gallons of fuel :D Once its painted, reassembled, running, I'll decide on a final ride height by adding/removing leaves in the spring packs.

If you want to know how tall it sits today, its 25.5" from the frame (in the area under the front seats) to the ground... and thats on 38.5"x14.5" Swampers.

Holy cow Scott! I haven't been on your thread for a little while now, and it looks like you got a year's worth of work for most folks done in the last couple of months. Just that pace alone is enough to make me jealous!

x however many on the 1/2 doors.:smokin: With your talent, you should see it thru on detailing those doors, and turn both the old access panel and window regulator holes into storage pockets. I know YOU can do it.

The battery tray mounts turned out killer. I think Mark [metaltech] should get with you and get some better pics of that on his website. That's a good product tie-in right there!

Question on the radiator hoop. Now that hood is on, are you planning to add a mini-hoop on top of the existing one, or what?

Sounds corny but.......truly enspiring build.:)

Mark thanks for the comments. They help keep me fired up about finishing this thing. Its been hard to stay motivated over the last 5 years... though this last 12 months has seen almost steady progress!

I did finish off the radiator hoop... I just forgot to put a photo up. I'll try to do it tonight.

Good point on the BTF battery boxes and Metal Tech... sound like a product Metal Tech might want to keep on hand to ship with their fenders. I sure was pleased with the way they came out.

Mark thanks for the comments. They help keep me fired up about finishing this thing. Its been hard to stay motivated over the last 5 years... though this last 12 months has seen almost steady progress!

I did finish off the radiator hoop... I just forgot to put a photo up. I'll try to do it tonight.

Good point on the BTF battery boxes and Metal Tech... sound like a product Metal Tech might want to keep on hand to ship with their fenders. I sure was pleased with the way they came out.

MOTIVATION?

RUBITHON!RUBITHON!RUBITHON!RUBITHON!RUBITHON!

Hmmm... tempting. Time will tell...

Very nice build.. Don't think anyone mentioned it, but I think your motor mount doughnuts are upsidedown..? Not sure it matters..

Going to be a stunning rig with fresh paint.

-Wayne

Built the front bumper today. I had big plans to make a bumper that tapered up and back at the ends... but when I actually went build it, it wasn't going to look good. For a narrow bumper, boxy looks better. The tow point goes through the bumper and is welded on both sides... the reason I didn't add two is because of the Saginaw box. I would have only been able to weld it to the outside of the bumper... so instead I went with one very robust tow point.

You know I had to go with the 8274 :grinpimp: :grinpimp:

Mark I still forgot to take a photo of that finished radiator hoop... maybe tomorrow? :shaking:

297964

297965

297966

297967

Forgot to mention... beside the 2 grade 8 bolts on each end bolting to the frame, there are 3 grade 8 bolts beneath the winch, running through the crossmember. I still need to get the right length bolts... you can see them hanging down below the fairlead in one of the photos. The bumper is 0.25 wall.

297965


I remember a time, long, long ago, when you could actually find stuff in your garage...















:D

Lately I've been excited to get more and more parts off my floor and shelves and onto the Land Cruiser. But I fear the day I start to disassemble this thing for paint... I have a feeling when the garage fills, my living room, kitchen, and office are going to get stuffed with Land Cruiser parts!

Today I got started on the rear bumper. Tomorrow I hope to finish it and fab the swing away rack.

I thought this was a cool pic, you can see exactly how deep the weld was penitrating. The steel in the photo is 1/4" The photo is one of the four bumper mounts.
298201

Shane, I was thinking of you as I sliced up this 1/4" wall box tubing :D Too bad you don't live closer, I'd let you use my plasma cutter!
298202

I went with FJ40 turn signals to keep the cruiser look... even if my cruiser came with the little round ones.
298203

And yeah... the ends are obviously not done.... that's tomorrow's project.
298204

Tow points were from Iron Pig (I think).
298205

298206

Uhm... yeah... I went plasma crazy today. I have it on a dedicated 20Amp line and still managed to trip the breaker 3 times. Doh!
298207

298208

298209

Very nice progress. I forgot you were off this week.

Did you do some heavy weightlifting to prepare for hefting that box tubing around?:D It must weigh a ton...

Looking at the rear mounts I was wondering about the strength against a side impact. You'll have a lot of weight on there when you finish it.

Phil

Its not too bad... but the 10' section I started with was hefty!

Yeah I intended to add a triangle gusset to each mount, but the night ran long and I didn't get it done... maybe today

Ive been following this thread pretty closely so maybe you already said but what are the cutouts on the bottom of the rear bumper for?

arndog

arndog, they're for putting the pin through the receiver. w/o them the receiver would be useless. I got fancy with the plasma and left a ring in each corner for safety chains to attach to, should I ever get a trail trailer or have to use the FJ40 to move my other trailer around.

damn. looking nice. i need a plasma :D :D

Shane

First slip a stick of dynamite into each end of the bumper and KABOOM!!!
298398

Then spend the next MANY MANY MANY MANY MANY hours putting it back together. I totally under estimated how much time this one was going to take. So... what do you think? Was it worth the effort or should I have just cut two square pieces of steel and slap them on the ends?
298399

298400

298401

298402

298403

298404

Spent so many hours on finishing the bumper I never did get to the swing away rack.

And yet again I see I forgot to take that pic of the radiator hoop for Mark... :shaking:

I was really hoping you would do something with the bumper ends. Just capping them off would have been soooooo fugly.

The contouring looks good.

It must be the picture angles, but it kinda looks like the ends stick out enough to catch stuff.

Single arm tire carrier or both sides? Cooler rack?

Phil

that is a sick rear bumper, keep it up

Thanks.

The bumper sticks out 1" past the tub on each side. As for the rack, it'll be single sided. At a minium it'll hold a cooler and power tank... I'll probably also build a shelf above that for lightweight gear... we'll see what happens tomorrow when I start cutting steel. :)

Oh... and if you guys need power steering hoses in the Bay Area, try Royal Brass in San Jose. I had no clue what fittings to buy for the hydro boost and Saginaw and PS cooler, etc... so I threw the FJ40 on a trailer and bought it to them today. They were extremely helpful. The whole stop only took 30 minutes and I walked out the door with the 5 hoses I needed for just over $100.
-Pump to hydroboost
-Hydroboost to PS box
-PS box to cooler
-Cooler to resevior
-Hydroboost to resevior

If you have the factory hose that came with your pump or hydroboost or whatever, bring it. They didn't stock the fittings for the Ford hydroboost, but since I brought them the stock Ford lines, they were able to cut the hardlines and install their own fittings on them. They also didn't stock a fitting for the Chevy pump, so I'll need to grab a stock PS hose from a wreck yard so they can finish that one hose.

Finished the swing away rack today. I'm really happy with it. Holds a cooler, Powertank, Hi-Lift, and has a 44"x18" shelf for whatever I want. I tried to think things through so it all works well together... stuff like being able to have the cooler strapped down and still being able to open it... and having enough room under my shelf to still be able to easily reach in and grab a soda.

298858

298859

298860

This is a spring loaded pin that drops into a detent on the bumper that locks the the swing away open and also prevents it from opening too far and smashing into the body.

298861

298862

The Hi-lift mounts to the back side.
298863

Latch...
298864

298865

Cooler still opens plenty wide to grab a snack w/o having to remove the cooler from the rack.
298866

Power tank
298867

Shelf... planned the shelf for light stuff like tent, sleeping bags, clothing... but its strong enough that if I want to put a 2nd cooler up there for a long trip it could handle it.
298868

Still need to add a CB antenna mount and license plate bracket before powder coat.

Mark I finally remembered... here is the finished radiator hoop. The cap area may be vulnerable still, but I'd have to cut into the hood support to make the hoop any bigger.
298869

The rack is sweet. Wish I could make sometthing like that

Finished the swing away rack today. I'm really happy with it. Holds a cooler, Powertank, Hi-Lift, and has a 44"x18" shelf for whatever I want. I tried to think things through so it all works well together... stuff like being able to have the cooler strapped down and still being able to open it... and having enough room under my shelf to still be able to easily reach in and grab a soda.

298858

298859

298860

This is a spring loaded pin that drops into a detent on the bumper that locks the the swing away open and also prevents it from opening too far and smashing into the body.

298861

298862

Where did you get the pin and latch? I need to make my swing out carrier and those look sweet.

Just went through your thread. Great job! I am hoping to do much the same as you with my 40. I have a few questions. I know you got a crate Vortec. Does yours have the alum block? I am thinking of buying an 07 5.3 with only a few thousand miles, but not sure with wiring. btbprod seems to recommend up to 05. Hope you document your wiring. I am going to be following it closely.

Looking great!

Just went through your thread. Great job! I am hoping to do much the same as you with my 40. I have a few questions. I know you got a crate Vortec. Does yours have the alum block? I am thinking of buying an 07 5.3 with only a few thousand miles, but not sure with wiring. btbprod seems to recommend up to 05. Hope you document your wiring. I am going to be following it closely.

Looking great!

Thanks for the comments. I think my motor was assembled in 2002. Steel block, aluminum heads. Came with a Howell wiring harness. For the rest of the truck I have a Painless harness. I won't start wiring for a couple months... paint is first.

Where did you get the pin and latch? I need to make my swing out carrier and those look sweet.

Got them both at http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/fab/diy.shtml

Scott, very impressive work! having been through something similar with my old 40 I feel for you, but admire your work.

Also since I've sorely missed my 40 I've been making mental plans for my next one and you've given me some great ideas? Once again great work.

Got them both at http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/fab/diy.shtml

Thanks.:D

I very very seldom visit this forum, let alone post on it. But I had to for this build, it's nothing short of awesome.


Any updates? :D

Unfortunately no. I'm suffering from a major case of cruiser burn-out and the motorcycle I bought last month is only making it worse on the cruiser (but my commute is suddenly much more fun). Plus mothers day, my oldest kids birthday, my wifes birthday, a business trip... May is not looking promising.

But hey, here's the new toy...

302648

302649

Looks like you are about to crash:flipoff2:


The Cruiser is lookin good. You better stick with it and get it done, Rubithon is just around the corner.

"K" series? My dad picked up his 2nd a few months back. He rides from Fresno to Reno every now and then for work and likes taking the back roads on his bike.

Knarly huh? I can turn that bike around in 14'. The result of many hours of training and more than a few falls (on trainer bikes of course). :D

R-series... 2-cyl boxer motor. You can tell because the motor sticks out the sides. I recently test drove a K1200GT, that K motor is smoooooth.

Yeah I was wrong, my old man's is an R. My wife's grandfather has a K, that thing is a boat. They like to do the cross country thing so it works well for them.

I like the rear racks.......tell your wife to contact me to sell it when you get greased by some shithead on those crowded California roads on that Beemer.

Ouch!

Did you have a personal experience or you just feeling a little harsh tonite?

Phil

what did u use for a t-case cross member i have the same set up for mine but i have a single case with 4.7:1

Here...
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5644724&postcount=50

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5644724&postcount=51

Nice build up.

Got them both at http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/fab/diy.shtml

Thanks :beer::beer::beer:

Nice truck :)

Man that rack looks better every time I see it especially to cooler.

Man that rack looks better every time I see it especially to cooler.

Thanks, I need to get out there and finish it. Still needs a CB antenna mount, points to connect straps around the perimiter of the shelf, some protection for the brake lights, and a license plate mount... maybe a worklight as well.

I want to build my Bronco a custom rear rack that would help with trail use and fire fighting. Get a highly flexable CB anttena I broke mine on the last trail ride damn trees.