I would just like to share with those in need of a u-joint and ball joint tool or want a spare to carry in the Jeep that I just called harbor freight and ordered part# 38335-0VGA and they said it was on sale for 19.99! I realize it is an imported job, but it sure beats the >$100 from any other place that I have seen and it is definitely better than beating the u-joint and ball joint with a hammer and piece of pipe, tube or socket.

Can't go wrong for under $30 to my door.

I have to admit, I first saw the sale from a post on JU, yes I still look over at JU from time to time.:flipoff2:

Hope it works better for you than the one I bought from HF. Stripped the threads out of it the first time I tried to use it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA

I can't always get my bench to work on u-joints, wonder how well this little guy really works on rust-set joints?>

Randii

I bought that tool a few years ago. It works really well for non-rusted ball joints and u-joints. I think is sucks for trying to get out 20 year old axle u-joints. Driveshaft u-joints don't seem to be a problem for this tool.

It was nice to have when I had to change out the drive shaft u-joints on a slip yolk shaft like the XJ t-case where you don't have pull out the yoke and drain the oil. You can change the u-joint while the slip shaft is still in the t-case.

IMHO....it was worth the $20 that I spent.

I've got the same tool. Got it when it was on sale a little while ago. Goes through u-joints with ease.

I did ball joints on a 86' D30 from the rust belt. That was more of a struggle. It likes to flex so not all the force is going where you want it. Used with a blue tipped wrench and finished the job.

Worth $20 though

get it!

it works well for what it is. comes will everything but the socket and 1/2 driver to turn the bolt.

Hmmmmm. I just checked their site and it came up $40:mad: Although I just stopped by the local Harbor Freight, and I think they had it for $30.

Got one, and I am a dummy,,,
Plus no instructions


HTF does the HF U joint tool work???


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/46600-46699/46694.gif

Originally posted by Jason M
Got one, and I am a dummy,,,


as stated twice already...no comment :D

I rented one from the local parts store like what randii showed. It worked fine to pop the ball joints on a set of flat top knuckles. What I found that helped was to tighten it up the tool and then tap on the side of the knuckle with a BFH to help loosen the BJ up, then tighten up the tool some more. A couple of rounds of that and it pushed out nicely.

also works good for removing torsion bars

Originally posted by Ryan
Hmmmmm. I just checked their site and it came up $40:mad: Although I just stopped by the local Harbor Freight, and I think they had it for $30.

Click the "Order from printed catalog" link.

Punch in the part number 38335-6VGA (6VGA instead of 0VGA)and it'll be $19.99

--Dan

Got one, worked fine when I did my ball joints.

The trick on the REALLY stuck joints is to put the pressure on with the c-clamp press, then smack the yoke where it surounds the cap. The deflection in the yoke will usually allow the cap to seperate from the yoke.

Has worked well for me anyway!

Originally posted by Jason M
Got one, and I am a dummy,,,
Plus no instructions


HTF does the HF U joint tool work???


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/46600-46699/46694.gif

That is for ujoints like the 1710,1760 and 1810 spicer joints that have bolt down caps.

I've got one and it's worked great for pressing balljoints and U-joints. The original joints in my '80 Waggy shafts did take a bit more effort - 1/2" breaker bar on the tool, and plenty of force until the joints finally let go.

Definitely worth $20 if you can get it for that price, I paid $40.

- Chris

Originally posted by Csnyder
I've got one and it's worked great for pressing balljoints and U-joints. The original joints in my '80 Waggy shafts did take a bit more effort - 1/2" breaker bar on the tool, and plenty of force until the joints finally let go.

Definitely worth $20 if you can get it for that price, I paid $40.

- Chris


Which tool do you have .. The pic that I posted or the C clamp variety???

thanks! just ordered one. good find. I had been putting it off for a while but theres no excuse now.

is the C-press piece any larger in this kit, which claims to be a 4x4 ball joint kit ?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4065

Originally posted by randii
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA

I can't always get my bench to work on u-joints, wonder how well this little guy really works on rust-set joints?>

Randii

I have the one for D-44 that comes in a red case. I am satisfied with it.

Originally posted by Jason M

Which tool do you have .. The pic that I posted or the C clamp variety???

This one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

- Chris

Randii, as stated it's great for what it is. It's formed to lock into most smaller vises quite nicely.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=77386&toggle=fullsize&f=DCP_0414.JPG

My biggest complaint is that if you *really* get on it the body will flex a little. I haven't managed to strip the threads yet, I once got on it with a 3 foot cheater to break out a rusted u-joint..... pretty cool 'cause oftentimes just the "cap" (round outer piece) of the cap spits out at high speed, but then this relieves tension and the joint comes out smoothly after that LOL. Keep the threads lightly lubed with wb grease or similar. I store it wrapped in an old t-shirt in the truck. Just two nights ago I tightened down all that I could with my IR2131, you could see the body start to flex but the threads didn't strip (yet, at least)

Need a second one for the shop.

I've also considered building one, maybe plasma two three pieces of 3/8" plate into a "U" shape, weld them all together (more thickness, less flex), weld GR8 nuts on one side and a piece of tube on the other. The sky's the limit for the size of the nut and bolt you use (to prevent stripping), I think the problem would be finding a nice long bolt which is threaded all the way, but a little searching should solve that.

Of course at that point maybe I should just buy a shop press :(

Originally posted by morpheus
is the C-press piece any larger in this kit, which claims to be a 4x4 ball joint kit ?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4065

yea, what's the difference in these kits (the one posted in the is thread and the 4x4 on in the link above??

Thanks
Jeff

Originally posted by Csnyder


This one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

- Chris

Which one is that for, D60s or D44s like mine?

Originally posted by MikeW
Which one is that for, D60s or D44s like mine?

The one that I have (C-clamp style, pictured) works for D44s, can't say whether or not it'd work on a D60 as I haven't tried that yet.

- Chris

Originally posted by Csnyder


The one that I have (C-clamp style, pictured) works for D44s, can't say whether or not it'd work on a D60 as I haven't tried that yet.

- Chris

I don't think they fit on 60s, IIRC, but someone would know better.

I had one from HF that lasted through 4 or 5 sets of D44 ujoints before the threads started shredding. I've since bought the OTC version, but haven't used it as much. As CSP said a long time ago, the impact gun is the trick.