can i just go at it and hack away?? im going to do a 1/4 elliptical so the frame rails will be shortened also. But as far as the quarter panels,bed, and gas tank what do i do. I will have to relocate the gas tank right?? is there any wires i need to deal with in the panels??I was thinking about 15-18 inches cut off, what would be the best tool to cut it i have an air nibbler and an air saw that runs at 30,000 rpms would these work??

SKILLSAW:flipoff2:

I did mine saturday, just measured back from the door frames (only straight place I had left to measure from), made my lines with a marker and went to hackin, didn't have to worry about the gas tank because it had a hole in it, so it was removed in favor of a fuel cell.

You will have to relocate the tank (fuel Cell or build a custom one, i used a fuel cell but will be building a tank to mount in the old cut down tank area, Depending on the year of the scout some have the taillight wires in the passenger side frame rail so be carefull when your cutting Pre 77 i believe. And on both of them that i have done i used a cut off wheel to cut the outer skin, and a sawsall for the inner 1/4's, floor and frame a Plasma cutter would be nice. To cut 18" off cut to the floor cross member behind the wheel wells and use it to build your new rear body mount from. Hope this helps

Thanks terra-izer for the info, very much appreciated. I like the pics Hayraker, are you going to keep the springover??

Keeping the same suspension for now even though it looks kind of silly with those long ass springs stickin behind my little ol 33's. I hope they won't be so odd looking when I mount up the 42's. I bought some 6.17 gears off ebay and ordered a detroit for the front 60 today so maybe I'll get this thing finished someday.

SAWZALLLLLLL!!!!

;)

Originally posted by Sillyneck
SAWZALLLLLLL!!!!

Say.. when are we going to get to see some pics of this Franken-Ford-Harvester on the trail and not just in the shop? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Hayraker
Keeping the same suspension for now even though it looks kind of silly with those long ass springs stickin behind my little ol 33's. I hope they won't be so odd looking when I mount up the 42's. I bought some 6.17 gears off ebay and ordered a detroit for the front 60 today so maybe I'll get this thing finished someday.

You are brave buying gears off e-bay. Aren't you worried about the condition they might be in? I would think gears are something you would want to eyeball before sending money?

Originally posted by Hooper


You are brave buying gears off e-bay. Aren't you worried about the condition they might be in? I would think gears are something you would want to eyeball before sending money?

gauranteed "new condition", Dana-Spicer brand, and less than half price of new ones, figured I would take the chance

EDIT: not that it has anything to do with gears, but I am brave, thanks for noticing Hoop:flipoff2:

NEGATIVE 18" :flipoff2:
http://www.nwbinders.net/MemberRides/KevinD/BOB11.JPG

http://www.nwbinders.net/MemberRides/KevinD/BOB5.JPG


http://www.nwbinders.net/MemberRides/KevinD/RAMP7.JPG

Originally posted by Hayraker


gauranteed "new condition", Dana-Spicer brand, and less than half price of new ones, figured I would take the chance

EDIT: not that it has anything to do with gears, but I am brave, thanks for noticing Hoop:flipoff2:

Do you set up your own gears? So, how much did they run you?

My tranny would be a lot happier if I regeared, but the cost of gears, plus gear setup is prohibitive right now.

Originally posted by Hooper


the cost of gears, plus gear setup is prohibitive right now.


It doesn't have to be expensive. Buy some used gears for the front end, new for the back, and new bearings in back too would be nice. There is nothing magic about R&P installation. What's more, you probably already have most if not all of the tools you need: Small shop press (or big), dial indicator with magnetic base, a couple torque wrenches (an in-lb one is nice for the pinion preload), and some patience. JUST DO IT!!!

EDIT: I forgot to mention you need a bearing separator to pull the carrier bearings off, too. And some marking compound to check your mesh pattern. And something you can beat on when it doesn't go together perfectly within the first 3 tries. :)

Originally posted by Bindernut



It doesn't have to be expensive. Buy some used gears for the front end, new for the back, and new bearings in back too would be nice. There is nothing magic about R&P installation. What's more, you probably already have most if not all of the tools you need: Small shop press (or big), dial indicator with magnetic base, a couple torque wrenches (an in-lb one is nice for the pinion preload), and some patience. JUST DO IT!!!

Yeah, the press is the key there. Don't have one. But, I do have friends who know how to set em up.

So, one of these days...

Gotta keep my eyes open for a deal.

Originally posted by Hooper

Yeah, the press is the key there. Don't have one. But, I do have friends who know how to set em up.


You have a hammer, right, Pat? :D

To pull the bearings, use a geared puller, ideally with a bearing seperator gizmo, too.

All that's needed to put the bearings back on is an arbor press - $30.

If you're adventuresome, I bet you could do it with a GOOD bench vice..

Hoop, I am going to set them up myself with the guidance of a couple of friends that have done it a few times. The used gears are for the front 60 along with the new detroit, all new bearings and seals. The r&p cost $100 bucks vs. $254 for a new set of Dana-Spicer 6.17's.

I will more than likely purchase a new ring & pinion, & ring gear spacer for the rear 60 and weld the spiders, or if the money is there when I get to building the rear I will get a spool.

The $$ thing is why I stayed with the 3.55 gears in the d44's for so long. I didn't want to spend a lot that I wouldn't be able to recoop on the 44's when I knew I wanted to swap axles anyway.

My tranny will be a lot happier with the 6.17's and dual T-cases.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


You have a hammer, right, Pat? :D

-snip-

If you're adventuresome, I bet you could do it with a GOOD bench vice..

Tom,

Now that's enough of that, you're a bad influence on Patrick. :flipoff2: Why is it that *everything* you do involves a BIG FAWKING HAMMER???? :D

If you make a set of setup bearings, then you only need to put the bearings on ONCE, in which case, you can get by without the bearing seperator "gizmo". This is only good if you're installing the gears on a carrier (or locker) that doesn't yet have bearings on it. Oh, I suppose you could torch off the old bearings the same way I do with axle bearings.....dammit, see what you've got me saying, Tom? It's hopeless..... next thing you know I'll be :nuke: parts everytime I go out. <sigh> What are we gonna do with you?:question: :beer: