Toy axles in, now, how do I do the steering ??? found no write ups..

[Uglychevy383]

I do not see how to make the steering work. mines 87 with p/s and yota front.seems springs would be in the way, and the yota steering arm hits the bumpstop on the frame LOL.

[FreakAccident]

What steering arm? The stock Yota J arm? As far as I know you can't use that setup.

Mine has the Allpro double arm setup. I would rather have the SKy setup though. Check out http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/ and select Zuki then steering and check out the kit at the bottom of the page.

[dwkremer]

If you are going to drive the vehicle on the road, you should purchase a steering set-up. If a home brewed set-up failes, you could loose your life.:shaking:

[Uglychevy383]

ok, well aside from a 500.00 bolt on kit.. i know people are fabbing theyre own "this works with that " way...

[Uglychevy383]

If a home brewed set-up failes, you could loose your life.:shaking:
Hey asshat, that depends who is making the home brewed setup, should probably ask your questions before you jump in rolling your eyes. the title asks for tech input not safety opinions :flipoff2: i doubt a butchered tubed hybrid crawler will be on I-90 :rolleyes:

[FreakAccident]

Hey asshat, that depends who is making the home brewed setup, should probably ask your questions before you jump in rolling your eyes. the title asks for tech input not safety opinions :flipoff2: i doubt a butchered tubed hybrid crawler will be on I-90 :rolleyes:

Mine uses the Allpro double arm with custom rods. I think thats probably the cheapest route to go. I know Rocky Road has a setup for $359 but mine had fitment issues with the coil setup I have.

[jones]

The steering on my Toy axles was free. I'm using the flipped arm on the passenger side crossover set-up. I don't daily drive it, but I do drive it to the trails for now.

This info has been posted before, but having no search makes it hard to find.

You use two arms from the passenger side. There are various ways to do it from there. Some guys cut one of the arms and weld it to the other. I milled the tops of both arms flat and welded them together and then milled off the part on the top arm that originally goes into the knuckle bearing. Here's a few pics:

Milled arms.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/DSC01124.JPG

Welded arms.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/DSC01125.JPG

Some guys gusset between the arms, but I figured that since I had both arms complete and it's only a zuke that I would leave it as is. I figure that without the gusset it looks cleaner and it might not get noticed by a cop if he's looking my rig over.

My buddy gusseted his, but it's on a pig of a Toyota. Here's a pic showing the gusset.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/steering5.jpg

When you run both arms stacked like this the cones that hold the arms on aren't going to work without opening up the holes in the top arm like this.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/steering4.jpg

Then on the driver's side you just cut off the j-arm peice so it looks like this.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/steering2.jpg

You'll have to make your own draglink to connect the arm you fabbed to the steering box. I'm running a Celica box, so it wasn't very hard to do because it's set-up in a way that you can run stock Toyota tie rod ends. Here's a pic of mine all bolted together.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/steering.jpg


There's other threads in here that describe this steering set-up. There is also tons of info on making these arms over on the Toyota side too.

[dwkremer]

Sorry if I angered you but consider my point of view before you blast me. Just stating a fact. I see many guys on the trails with the backyard fab skills and know what it can get you into. I was just stating that this is one of the areas that you had better know what you are doing. Anyway, you can buy bulletproof arms for $200 and build your own drag link and tie rod from toy and sammy parts. The steering arms is what concerns me the most because it is not difficult to fab the rest if you have a little experience. Steering set-up is one of the areas that worries me the most because if it does fail on the road there is nothing you can do.

If you are making a buggy, who cares! From your original post, I though that you were just putting toy axles under a basic stock set-up.

[SPINY]

I did mine the sames as Jones. I used the stock ifs pitman arm andbought a drag link and ifs adapter from sky manufacturing with fj80 tres.Montezuma on the board here made my crossover steering arms flipped stock arms . He may still be making them . Lots of IFS steering write ups on here .

[mrbogger]

Check out TRAIL-GEARS hysteer kit, my son put 1 on his & works great.Good price to.

[purevil71]

My hi-steer is the home brewed flipped arms and it works really well. Looks like ass, but it's plenty strong.

[Uglychevy383]

spiny & pureevil... got pics? ifs from what vehicle? year? and also, on the celica p/s pump, do the hoses bolt right on? what year celica?

[jones]

I didn't use a Celica pump and I'm not sure on the year of the Celica boxes. Mine was from an 84 I think. It says on the Rocky Road site which ones are the same.

The Celica pump uses a v-belt and the 1.6 8 valve I'm running doesn't. I decided that I'd use a different pump then try messing around with pulleys. I ended up using one from a Mercury Tracer believe it or not. It's been working great so far. Then I just built a quick and easy bracket for the driver's side of the engine and use it to tension the belt as well. I used the power steering hoses from the Tracer, but they're the same thread as the Toyota ones if you have those instead. Here's a pic of my pump on the block.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/DSC01519.JPG

The Celica box was easy to mount. All it took was two sleeves in the frame. I lucked out and my rag joint on the steering wheel shaft bolted right up to the steering box too. Here's a few pics of the box mounted up.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/box.JPG

http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/holes.JPG

I may as well tell how I hooked the drag link to the steering box while I'm at it. The steering box has the weird end on it as you can see. Well that end happens to have the exact same taper as the Toyota's stock steering stablizer and the driver's side tie rod end has a hole with this taper. So if you have a spare Toyota tie rod you can cut about eight inches out of the center, sleeve it and have a draglink. You just have to cut the regular rod end off the driver's side. Here's a pic of my hack job.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/draglinkend.JPG

I could have spent some more time on the grinder with that end, but I'm not building a show truck or anything.

So that's how I did my whole steering set-up on my Toy axle swap for free.:D

[Uglychevy383]

does the steering box have to be replaced?

[jones]

No, but my front's welded and there's no better time to go to power steering than the present. You should consider it while it is torn apart at least. It makes a huge difference. You can use a plate to adapt a Celica box if you don't have a welder and I don't mind the Celica box all that much. It works way better than armstrong anyway, which I did for a few years with a welded front. I'll never go without powersteering again.

You'll have to get creative with your drag link if you keep the stock steering box or buy something to adapt it.:D

[dwkremer]

I made an adapter plate for my P/S box. It goes between the P/S box and the frame and looks just like the plates you can buy. I also used a couple of washers on the front bolt so that the input flange was aligned to the steering shaft comming out of the firewall. That gave me more clearance for my P/S pump. The adapter plate saves you from having to weld tubing inside the frame plus you can use the factory holes. I made mine out of 1/4 steel and used countersunk bolts. I think it toom me 40 min to do. It is super easy.

[Uglychevy383]

No, but my front's welded and there's no better time to go to power steering than the present. You should consider it while it is torn apart at least. It makes a huge difference. You can use a plate to adapt a Celica box if you don't have a welder and I don't mind the Celica box all that much. It works way better than armstrong anyway, which I did for a few years with a welded front. I'll never go without powersteering again.

You'll have to get creative with your drag link if you keep the stock steering box or buy something to adapt it.:D

Jones-- from the looks, if i leave my stock steering box, pitman arm, and JUST simply weld an arm like you did that would all bolt right up and work.. for now???

[jones]

Everything will bolt up except the drag link.

You need a draglink with a Toyota tie-rod end on the axle side and the other side has to have the stock end that connects to the Zuke pitman arm. I can't remember what's on the pitman arm side of the stock zuke draglink so I can't really suggest anything.

I'm sure you can figure something out for it though.:D

[Uglychevy383]

http://www.members.shaw.ca/builttoy/posts/steering.jpg
so isnt the the upper link going from pitman to passenger top what your calling the draglink? why wont that bolt up?

[dwkremer]

The tie rod ends have a different size of taper shaft. The toy ones are bigger. You can drill out the steering arm and use a rod end instead of a tie rod end. Just use one that has slightly larger threads than the one you currently have so you can drill and re-tap the rod for your rod end.

[jones]

Yes it is. The lower one is the tie-rod.

The Suzuki one won't bolt up because it doesn't have a Toyota tie-rod end on the axle end and I'm not sure if it's long enough.

My dragling is a Toyota tie rod with 6-8" cut out of the center. I then sleeved the two peices with the right size tube, welded the ends, and plug welded the whole length of it every couple of inches with one row of plug welds every 90 degrees.

If you're going to make a dragling for your application by yourself, you're going to have to make a draglink that has the Suzuki pitman arm end on one side and the other side needs a Toyota tie rod end.

Or mess around with the ends like the guy above me just posted.

I hope I explained that clearer, but it's kind of hard.:D

[dwkremer]

What steering box do you have? Maybe we can tell you what parts you need once you let us know the steering box. Also, it would help if you would tell Trail Gear what box you have so he knows what you are looking for because your post is hard for someone to follow if they have not read this one.

It is my understanding that no one sells a steering arm with a high and low arm on the same side. A single passanger side arm is used for your drag link and tie rod. It is better to have your tie rod above your axle so it does not get bashed by the rocks and tweak you alignment.

You can use a tracker/kick steering box as well. They are supposed to be the same as the celica box and thus can later be tapped for an hydrolic ram. The tracker steering pump is weak though and I would suggest using a toy pump.

Nearly any pump will work but a power steering pump from a truck is better due to it being a larger pump. I actually have a spare pump that is just like the one jones has, I used the pulley off of it and put in on an IFS toy truck pump because it was larger. I took a double row crank pully off of an 87 zuk and put it on my 91 instead of buying a $50 one.

I bought the tracker steering box off of ebay for $35 with no pump. I bought the small power steering pump off of ebay for $9 and I bought an entire toy P/S set up from a junk yard for $75 but sold the box for $125 (all the toy boyz driving 80-85 trucks need that ifs box). I had to tap the tracker box to accept the toyota p/s hoses.

All this info should drive you crazy!



does the steering box have to be replaced?

[Uglychevy383]

I think im gonna do a double arm flipped n welded, for now... but does anyone make a double arm setup like that? dkreamer said 200$ but i cant find one.

[Tusker]

Here is another version of the same thing:

Allpro used to sel them, but apparently not anymore.

[SPINY]

The pump and steering box is from a 88 toyota 4x4 . I got the pump mount from Rockrat I used the stock pitman arm and bought the ifs pitman arm adapter and draglink from Sky manufacturing and I am still using the stock tie rod . I have my bumpstops set just high enough to let the spring level out and it just does miss the draglink. I have the axle moved forward somewhat with the shackle reversal. Sorry no pics right now maybe able to get some tomorrow after work.

[lowlygovemployee]

Well if you want to do it getto, take off the toyota tierod and flip it 180, then use the old steering damper hole to make a z-bar. You will need tow samurai drag links, you have to use both pitman arm sides. It's Getto, but cheap and it works.

Here is the first one with plate steel
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e291/lowlygovemployee/Vehicles/06.jpg

Here is a round tube with bracing
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e291/lowlygovemployee/Vehicles/BigRides3.jpg

[deepmud]

I like homebrew flipped and welded arms better than z-links, for safety and functionality(bump steer, for one).

FWIW, I have looked and looked and found only ONE pic of a failed homebrew cross-over, it was on a toy with 40's and they didn't machine and flip the whole arm, it was cut off short to avoid interfering with the bolts on top, and no brace between the arms. It was on a trail-only rig, in the rocks.

Done right it would be fine - however you better be confident in your welding or get it done by someone you trust your life to. Even on the trail no-steer could kill. It is completely true that buying a good kit is really cheap insurance.

[xamtex]

i just did my steering....ive fitted toy axles to my lwb sammy.i did the welded job....the gusset is 20mm plate fully welded with the right rods..

[Hvy_Chevy]

or you could just spend the 150 - 200 and do it right, with hi-steer arms.

[supazuk94]

do it right .. w/ http://www.rockjunkie4x4.com/ selling the trail gear set up for $335 why screw with safety

[xamtex]

getting this sort of stuff in the uk is almost impossible....thats why......
importing it is a maybe but then we get hit with duty and VAT....plus the postage....AND i need it up and running in a few weeks...so needs must and out with the welder.

[HUMZUKI]

You dont need it welded. I could crack. you can take the studs out and use spacers with NO mods to either arm flipped and use bolts through the top. A guy localy did it and The PASSED NJ TILT TEST LEGALY for street use. If he had welded it thou would have failed. The bolts are hard as shit to find but I bought them and dont need them if some one wants them Ill sell'em for less I gotem for. like $10 I think they were like $17-20 I dont need them There new in box with reciept

I shelled out and bought the Sky kit :cool2: Witch should be here next week:flipoff2: :D


O yea he just cut and welded the zuk box rod and off and cut the end off his toy arm and welded them together. Witch ALSO passed for the street.

[RngrDv]

Don't have the $ right now but where would I find those bolts when I get ready to start? Also, got pics of it not welded?

[HUMZUKI]

$10 bucks for all 4. Hes got pics but I cant get on the damn site anymore.

http://www.njfourwheelers.com/forums/

His screen names Bigmike. He's cool man he'll send ya the pics. Hes got the link too,,, and told me the part exact #'s for the bolts

[HUMZUKI]

Actually I there should be the thread where he posted the pics for me like in the last month'er 2. just Search HUMZUKI

[deepmud]

You dont need it welded. I could crack. you can take the studs out and use spacers with NO mods to either arm flipped and use bolts through the top. A guy localy did it and The PASSED NJ TILT TEST LEGALY for street use. If he had welded it thou would have failed. The bolts are hard as shit to find but I bought them and dont need them if some one wants them Ill sell'em for less I gotem for. like $10 I think they were like $17-20 I dont need them There new in box with reciept

I shelled out and bought the Sky kit :cool2: Witch should be here next week:flipoff2: :D


O yea he just cut and welded the zuk box rod and off and cut the end off his toy arm and welded them together. Witch ALSO passed for the street.

what the heck is the nj tilt test?

And if they are flipped, what about the kinpin?

[POWERSTROKEN]

What I have done as only a temporary trail fix is to cut the J arm as the rear of it is not needed. Run the Toy tie rod backwards so the stabilizer mount is on the PS of the rig. Take the Zuk drag link and make a slight bend in it at the attacthment end of the TR and run a 1/2 G8 bolt through there and "WELD" the nut on. This will give you a temp trail steering fix untill you can choose and purchase you ideal high steer set up. Jim

[HUMZUKI]

what the heck is the nj tilt test?

And if they are flipped, what about the kinpin?


Doesnt have a kingpin on the arm.Or if it does just hack it off. Like I said I couldnt find one cheap, and I havent taken mine off yet.

NJ tilt test is a bunch of fucking BS. If you do ANY kind of lift on a truck your supposed to make an apointment at one of like 4 special inspection stations so they can nit-pick your rigs suspention and steering and test it on a incline to check stabillity. If you pass you get a second sticker. Iv never gone throught it. Most cops dont even know about or give a shit really. Iv never even seen a lifted truck with one.:rolleyes:


Iv heard of people failing because of taking THE DUST SHIELD off there disk breaks:mad3: :mad3: :mad3:

SOooooo If fliping and bolding it will pass that SHIT its gota be solid!!!!

[jones]

Bolting two arms together is an interesting idea because that would pass inspection here as well. You're not allowed to weld your steering here.

Toyota guys have problems with those studs breaking off. All four can let go at once and the knuckle comes loose. People add a fifth stud. If you have two arms bolted together I would assume that the stress on the bolts would go up and it's possible that they'd break on a zuke too.

Maybe it would be a good idea to upgrade the studs to the strongest ones you can find and maybe a larger size too.:D