Looking for new tow rig

[paydirt]

I am currently looking for a new tow rig. I am getting rid of my '96 Dodge Diesel. Love the truck, but want a newer 4-door diesel (Family). I am mainly considering early 2000's Chevy Duramax or Ford SuperDuty Diesel. I want a four door, 4wd, dually(?), long bed for around $20K. Am also looking for a cab-over camper to go on top as well. I'm not trying to start a GM vs Ford war, but looking for best value/dependability. I wanted to keep it around 20k for the truck, (and then 5-7 K for the used cab-over). Looking for your opinions from experience on what to look for or stay away from.

Any help would be appreciated. Oh ya, I flat tow a TJ with 35's. Thx.

[Honkylips]

Why aren't you considering another cummins?

[SolidAxleDurango]

Why aren't you considering another cummins?

If you read... His budget is 20k. And he wants diesel, 4wd, dually, AND 4 door cause he now has a family. Buying dodge would mean 2003+ to meet all those requirements... And would definately blow that budget.

[chris demartini]

The PSD's are definetly cheaper. The full quad cab is huge inside.

[mbrink]

I have a 2001 Ford CC SB PSD that I bought new. Also have a cab over camper for it, and tow the Scrambler behind it. It has been great. Not sure what early 2000 Ford's are going for, but it has been a great truck. Pulls the entire load well, and I drive it empty to work every day.

The CC Ford has a lot of room. We fit the family of 4 and Lab in it on road trips. No regrets.

Good luck.

[Danger Ranger]

I paid 20k for a '00 f350 srw 4x cc lb 7.3 auto w/99k mi in feb

if ya want a 6-spd... start lookin now... them things are hard to find.

[FF3PM]

2001's had;
A problematic valve body in the autos.
Powdered metal rods except for very early in the model year.
2000's had;
No valve body issues.
Forged rods.
Compared to GM, Ford had the bigger cab back then, & straight front axle. GM does ride smoother.
I paid 12k for my 00 F350 XLT 4x4 SRW RC auto with 9' Western plow and a salter a year ago.

[1967K10]

The Duramax will last longer,get better MPG and has more power. I rarely see or hear of a PSD with over 250k but I have seen and heard of numerous
D-max's with 400k+ and one with almost 500k. Those were on the origonal motor and tranny. As far as mods you can make a lot more power for a lot less on a D-Max. 6spd Furds are easy to find,6spd D-Max's are a bit harder :( . I love mine. It was funny to have a new CTD 03'+ who is empty try to pass me when I was loaded with 2 1tons 4x4 on my trailer and him not be able to pass :laughing: . I'm pushin' 475rwhp though and over 1000rwfp.

[blacksheep312]

What kind of MPG u gettin with the mods?

[mbryson]

The Duramax will last longer,get better MPG and has more power. I rarely see or hear of a PSD with over 250k but I have seen and heard of numerous ..............


I know of one approaching 300K (early '99) and another well past 400K (2000 standard cab 6 speed) that is USED. I think it's how you maintain. I've seen a few Mits built Hyandai Excels that were in good shape after a 120K. Those things don't last too well.

[LouBell]

This was exactly my situation a year ago. I really didn't care what brand I got, as long as it was at least a 3/4 ton diesel. I have never owned an american vehicle before, so I am not "pre-wired" in the great three debate (blah blah blah, blh blah blabla is all I hear). I read up on all three (chev, ford , dodge) and found out that they are all about the same in the reliability department, regardless of what someone's brother's cousin's friend who works for the city says about it. Dodge didn't have a true crew cab until recently, so I narrowed my search for a chevy or a ford. The ford must have outsold the chevy by a wide margin, as the availability of used ones is about 4 or 5 to 1 (here in CA anyways). So I ended up with a '03 F250 Ford Crew Cab with the 6.0 Diesel. The center console folds up to reveal a nice middle seat in the front, which I need as I have 4 kids. I bit the bullet a little bit and got something a little bit newer than I had origonally intended, but it only had 41,000 mi. on it, and I plan on keeping it a loooong time :dustin: .I just bought a used ('94)Lance camper and I pull my trailer with my 4Runner on it, so you and I are about in the same boat.

My advice to you is to not shop brand specific. The bottom line is, all three make awesome trucks, and I don't see how you can go wrong buying any one of these tow monsters. Find the best deal/milage you can, and go for it.

[demonranger]

economy will be in the same ballpark for both. The realistic averages most people report are in the same ballpark for the 7.3 & the dmax. The dmax is relatively easy to get more power out of the 7.3 with Powdered metal rods are limited to around 300hp '01.5 & older have forged rods stock which are good for more.

I've seen posted on boards 500k+ for both engines. I have a '95 PSD and am pleased with the truck and have ridden in other brands and they are compareable.

I would suggest driving one of each and finding out which cab design you like better. I personally do not like the passenger's floorboard of the SD trucks because it leaves you with such a small floorboard because of the taper to allow for the downpipe but that's getting into some rather picky details but might be important to you or your wife on long trips.

For auto trans trucks when upgrading power the 4r100 can be upgraded to hold moderate power increases (100hp) at home in your driveway without a compelte trans rebuild simply a shift kit, torque converter, & larger cooler. While the allison requires an expensive compelte rebuild to hold more than about 60 more. (or so I've been told on the allision) If you're looking for more power than the numbers above then you're up for a 3-4k trans rebuild anyway.

[DURAtotheMAX]

For auto trans trucks when upgrading power the 4r100 can be upgraded to hold moderate power increases (100hp) at home in your driveway without a compelte trans rebuild simply a shift kit, torque converter, & larger cooler. While the allison requires an expensive compelte rebuild to hold more than about 60 more. If you're looking for more power than the numbers above then you're up for a 3-4k trans rebuild anyway.

not quite. The Allison will hold about 100 more from the factory before you run the risk of limping it. Alright Dodge and Ford guys insert your limping jokes here.....but then the joke will be on you when you push the trans too far and instead of limping and getting you home, you're stuck on the side of the road...Thats why id rather have a stock trans that limps at 100hp than a stock trans that will hold 135hp and be a ticking time bomb. When you add power to Ford and Dodge tranny's, its great great great great great, shifts crappy twice, then 5 minutes later the truck wont even move. You can limp an Allison upwards of 25 times and it will still get you and your load home. Also, the worst you can do to an Allison is burn the clutches; you arent going to break hard parts. The extended cab/short bed street legal Dmax that runs 10's just has aftermarket clutches and a TC, all the hard parts input shaft etc are stock.... But thats JMO.... You dont need to do a full 4k rebuild to hold power. A simple Trans-Go shift kit and a triple disc torque converter has proven to hold 570 rear wheel hp and a 12.3 quarter mile on a 7000 pound crew cab. TransGo is 200 bucks, triple disc TC is 1200. The price for a shift kit and triple disc TC for a Ford 4R100 is about the same. You CAN do a full rebuild kit and have more insurance, but the simple TransGo/triple disc has proven itself....my full rebuild was only 2700:) (I did it myself tho)