I just purchased an 88 YJ bone stock 258, peugot 5 speed, 30/35 aon 235 tires. The whole drivetrain has never been rebuilt and has 174000 miles on it all. It runs and drives, but has noises and burns/uses oil up. I have decided to go ahead and swap everything at once. Looking and basically a stock 350, aluminum intake and headers being only upgrades. 700r4, strengthen this up a little with the corvetter servo, boost valve etc., NP208 case(fixed yoke version). Run a chevy dana 44 front with flattops and crossover steering. SOA, 4.56 gears open(until i weld and hyrdo assist), 14 bolt rear semi or full float, with 4.56 gears welded. Run a 1 inch body lift to help clear the drivetrain. Would probably end up with 2.5" lift springs being run all around and running some 36 or 37" tires on stock hummer beadlock wheels, that way the width stays down and this is streetable. This is my DD for the next year or so, so eveyrthign will be new/rebuilt and needs to stay reliable. ANy input is appreciated.

Get on with the wrenching.....

I suggest you use EFI. That Chevy NP208 is a huge case. I would look for a D300 instead. It's an easy conversion

Why not just run stock wrangler sprnigs with those 36-37"?

sounds like you've got a plan. be sure to post pics once in a while.

will stock wranglers clear 36-37" tires SOA without tons of trimming, ill trim some but not a complete hack job. Also, I may do the engine swap first, will the 35 rear hold up for a month or 2 daily driving with 35's and a stock v8. Wopnt wheel it hard or at all with teh v8 power but just tossing the idea. I know the 35 is a POS, just hoping ti will hold for the time being .

No fricken way will it hold 35" and a V8.

well that doesnt help any LoL guess ill have to refigure

Before choosing a tire size make sure you know what rear axle you are going to use. A 14FF needs a big tire or lots of shaving.

Are you waiting to buy a beefier rear axle, is that why you want to run the 35 for a few months? If it was me I wouldn't risk breaking the 35. Wait until you get the beefier axles and take the 35 down to the swap meet or sell elsewhere.

final verdict is 350/th350/np208 (fixed yoke passenger drop) 44 front/14 bolt semi float rear

You'll need to push your rear back with that auto in there,so plan on doing some trimming and a frame extension.
I have pics of my 88YJ, stock wheelbase, "full size" width, 44 front, 14 bolt rear, sb350 (as you described) if you need anything specific,.. oh and no body lift was needed for the sm420 and atlas I'm running.
To Almost look legal I needed to run BW pocket flares to cover the tire stick-out...as for springs I'm running OME SOA for an early Toyota and was told the would help with axle wrap and they did but I still needed a traction bar for any decent traction....
Good luck with your build,that 88 yj is a perfect start IMO.

Oh and I'm running 35"x 15.5 with no trimming but could run 38" with some trimming....I'm staying with the 35" because I still want to be able to get it in the garage.

th350/np231 is upposed to be same as stock setup, and the fixed yoke 208 isnt much longer , however I did round up a sm465 i do believe :)

th350/np231 is upposed to be same as stock setup, and the fixed yoke 208 isnt much longer , however I did round up a sm465 i do believe :)You'll be running larger tires and spring over so your driveline angles would suffer unless you drop the drive train(even with the stock set-up)....trust me shorter is better.
A sm465 is huge,I would go with an auto if I was going to squeeze something big in there....put your axles on first,rotate your rear pinion up a little bit and tack the perches..... then figure out where your output yoke will be with your desired set-up. You'll see what I'm talking about...
How long is the th350/np231 setup over-all? My sm420/atlas from bell to end of output yoke is 37" with a 20" driveline + cv at 18*.I have the stock (slightly modified) cross member with no drop

final verdict is 350/th350/np208 (fixed yoke passenger drop) 44 front/14 bolt semi float rear
why semi-flaot, if your going to do it do it right and go full flaot, its a little stonger. i clear 37's no problem with stock worn out waggy springs.

semi float mainly because i have it already, and with 35-37's im worried the FF will hang up to much. As far as the 350 swap goes, anyone know if I can run some form of stock manifolds or if conversion headers have to be bought??

semi float mainly because i have it already, and with 35-37's im worried the FF will hang up to much. As far as the 350 swap goes, anyone know if I can run some form of stock manifolds or if conversion headers have to be bought??
A stock manifold should work fine.I used slick-fits "block-huggers"(I was going to put the motor in a 71cj5 at the time I bought them)...I found they interfered with starter removal and don't give much clearance to the spark plug boots (I had to give them some insulation to prevent baking).but they have a nice thick flange. I would mock up the block with the motor mounts in place to decide where you want the pipes to run before you choose them.