First gear setup: Is this pattern OK?

[Marcj7]

I'm installing new 4.10's and an electrac into a D44. I measured the old shims and replaced them with new shims as close to the same thickness as I could get. I put it all together using setup bearings and checked the backlash. Baklash was within tolerance (.005-.007). Next I slapped some gear marking compound on the ring gear and here's what I got:

http://www.roundtableonline.com/jeepimages/gearpattern1.jpg

http://www.roundtableonline.com/jeepimages/gearpattern2.jpg

To me (the untrained eye) it looks OK. But from all of the research I have done I cannot believe that I got it right without having to change even one shim. Am I reading the pattern wrong or did I just get $hit-house lucky?

TIA, Marc.

[Black Dog]

That looks good. Run it.

[bbagwell]

Looks good to me.

[Marcj7]

Thanks for the input! I guess I just got lucky. I don'y know if that is a good thing or a bad thing to happen on a first try :D

One other question: When I put the carrier in the case (with setup bearings) it was tight enough that I had to pound it in with a dead-blow hammer. However, if I put a big screwdriver between the case and the carrier I am able to move the carier side-to-side .002". Is this acceptable or should I add shims to each side for final assembly?

[NetBSD]

mine never get that good, lol. looks perfect to me

[Balsax]

Thanks for the input! I guess I just got lucky. I don'y know if that is a good thing or a bad thing to happen on a first try :D

One other question: When I put the carrier in the case (with setup bearings) it was tight enough that I had to pound it in with a dead-blow hammer. However, if I put a big screwdriver between the case and the carrier I am able to move the carier side-to-side .002". Is this acceptable or should I add shims to each side for final assembly?

you should add some shims but it might be difficult w/o a case spreader. .002 will probaly work, though.

[GJC]

To me (the untrained eye) it looks OK. But from all of the research I have done I cannot believe that I got it right without having to change even one shim. Am I reading the pattern wrong or did I just get $hit-house lucky?

TIA, Marc.
Funny, I did the same thing on my first gear setup. Toy 8" 4cyl with ez locker.
First pattern looked killer. Ran it with no issues :cool2:

[guidolyons]

You must be a lucky bastard...looks good I'd run it!

X2 on adding an extra shim on each side (.002-.005 to the shim stack) if you have them), there should be no play in the carrier side to side. On a D44 during trial fit the carrier should be snug but not too tight, but on final assembly add an even amount to the shim stack to each side to preload the carrier bearings.

[Marcj7]

Well, it looks as if my good luck has run out. I disassembled everything to prepare for final assembly. For setting up the pinion I used the following:

Setup inner pinion race
New inner pinion bearing
New outer pinion race
Setup outer pinion bearing

After replacing the inner pinion race and outer pinion bearing with new ones I reinstalled the pinion and the first problem I noticed was that the pinion bearing preload was way too tight and I had to add .010 outer pinion shims. Next I reinstalled the carrier with the setup bearings to double check the pattern and this is what I have now:

http://www.roundtableonline.com/jeepimages/gearpattern3.jpg

http://www.roundtableonline.com/jeepimages/gearpattern4.jpg

If I'm reading this pattern right then my pinion is too deep. I think that this would also explain why my pinion preload changed? I was very careful to make sure that the inner pinion race was fully seated when I installed it. Am I reading this pattern correctly (These pics aren’t as good as my first ones so hopefully you guys can read them). Is it possible that the new race is thicker than the old (setup) race? I'm hoping to get some input before I actually knock it back out and measure it.

One other question: I don't see a way of removing the inner pinion race without destroying the baffle. I'm not sure what the purpose of this part is. Is this part necessary or can I replace it with more shims?

Everyone's unput is greatly appreciated, Marc.

[bnine]

A good splitter and 2 jaw will pull that bearing without mangling the slinger (baffle), if you have one, and are lucky with it.

Make sure you got your races seated properly. If they arent 100% seated, they can give the ilusion of deeper pinion during final install. Especially with a preload shim type pinion. The 200lbs to preload, might not be enough to suck them down.

Had this happen on a crush sleeve diff. After torqueing the sleeve to about 500lbs, to starts its crush, the races must have finished seating, and my p depth was fawked.

There's no garruntee that you will get that exact pattern back that you had the first time because of different bearings. Your new one is still a pretty good pattern.

If your depth changed then I would confirm backlash before pulling the pinion again. If the pattern still isnt to your liking, go from there.

For future reference, make sure you caliper your setup versus new bearings and mark it down. If its anything more then a couple thou difference, make it up during final assembly.

Keep going the way you are, looking good so far.

[Black Dog]

Yes, it is too deep now. Good luck.

[Backncardr]

Since you are using setup bearings-are they made from used bearings-or are they new? I have seen decent patterns go in the toilet from using used bearings for set up bearings with the ID's honed out-- then the final assembly when the new ones are used.