actually this is a rig my girlfriend bought after we went to the hammers this wekend and i need to iron out the details befroe the torch, sawzall and welder come out of the garage.

heres what i have laying around from my 4runner build:

35 bfg's on 15x10, 3" backspaced wheels
front and rear toy axles
wrangler springs front and rear
toy ifs box
allpro hysteer complete

heres my newbie plan for the next month or 2(snows melting must hurry)!!

wrangler springs on the toy axles sprung over-duh, sawzall whatever rubs, toy hysteer and steering box? extended wheelbase by rearranging the spring mounts?? inchworm says the sami frame is thin and kinda hard to weld on--note my screen name--and im stick welding...

is the sami tcase with 6:1 gears and 5.29's gonna cut it??? thats like 118:1 or so, but we drive to the trails, so high range must be appropriately geared as well...
will the toy box and hysteer work in this setup---how far forward can i move the box without removing the body mount so my drag link and teirod dont scrub eachother...


a million q's, thanks for the help, all comments, pointers and snide remarks are MORE than welcome!!

That should work out pretty well!!! You will have to do some cutting for the 35's though....If you got some 2.5 in wranglers..that would help out with that...
The frame welds just fine, even with stick.
I extended my wheelbase out to 84" with the springs.
For the hard spring mounts, use the Wagoneer spring mounts....Very easy to install!

I have the 6:1 with 5.38's and 37's and it does awesome for me!

you shouldnt have a problem with the draglink rubbing on the box, but you cant move it too far forward before you hit the body mount!

What motor do you have? Stock?

where exactly in comparison to stock are your springs mounted and did you reverse the shackle setup- in front. i can build the frame out back and extend the whellbase further if needed?? she wants an exo over the cab and a flatbed on the ass...

heres the motor, and thanks for the help!!!!!! are the stock wrangler springs kool, id prefer to be low and just go nutz with the sawzall?

Sounds pretty much like the setup I'll have eventually, except for the exo and flatbed. I'm not sure if I'll stick to 33s, or go to 35s yet...:D

when you guys talk about 6:1 cases, are you refering to the calmini 5.8 or the sumo 6:1?? they seem to cost the same but is one better than the other???

any pointers on the driveshafts from sami tcase output to toy axles(especially on the center rear??)?? i have the cv off an old ifs toy i can use for the rear shaft??

thanks for being patient with me and answering my questions, its wierd being a newbie again!:flipoff2:

hey what intake / carbs are you running on your engine

i believe it is the calmini duals?? well have all the details tonight when we pick up the POS:D

u need a p/s pump & resivoir too, and u have to fab a bracket to mount or buy the $$$$$$$$$$ kit. I have the pump & resivor, looks like the buyer is flaking. been about 9 days no check:( if u need one call me. I make u the bass deal:)

Originally posted by Booger Weldz
when you guys talk about 6:1 cases, are you refering to the calmini 5.8 or the sumo 6:1?? they seem to cost the same but is one better than the other???

any pointers on the driveshafts from sami tcase output to toy axles(especially on the center rear??)?? i have the cv off an old ifs toy i can use for the rear shaft??

thanks for being patient with me and answering my questions, its wierd being a newbie again!:flipoff2:

I'm going with the Sumo's, there are more people using them than the Calmini's AFAIK. Plus, they are a bit lower then the Calmini gears for less money. :D

Originally posted by SeaBass44
u need a p/s pump & resivoir too, and u have to fab a bracket to mount or buy the $$$$$$$$$$ kit. I have the pump & resivor, looks like the buyer is flaking. been about 9 days no check:( if u need one call me. I make u the bass deal:)

youre talking about my ifs toy box setup, seapickle??

Originally posted by dangerber


I'm going with the Sumo's, there are more people using them than the Calmini's AFAIK. Plus, they are a bit lower then the Calmini gears for less money. :D

the sami first gear with the sumo and 5.29's in the pumkins works out to about 115-120:1.

is that good enough to crawl with 35's and that little 1.3L motor?? i found the 108:1 in the 4runner is barely getting me through(stalling) hairball stuff like upper big johnson at the hammerz...

Originally posted by Booger Weldz


youre talking about my ifs toy box setup, seapickle??

Yup, u going ifs box on the sammie, u nee a pump and resivior, I have one from a 22re:) I just email the guy that said the check is going out in the morning, that was on the 7th;) 9 days ago...I love selling parts:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by SeaBass44


Yup, u going ifs box on the sammie, u nee a pump and resivior, I have one from a 22re:) I just email the guy that said the check is going out in the morning, that was on the 7th;) 9 days ago...I love selling parts:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

if the deal falls through let me know, i can come visit and beg to use pats bender!!:D :D

Originally posted by Booger Weldz


the sami first gear with the sumo and 5.29's in the pumkins works out to about 115-120:1.

is that good enough to crawl with 35's and that little 1.3L motor?? i found the 108:1 in the 4runner is barely getting me through(stalling) hairball stuff like upper big johnson at the hammerz...

Yeah that will be fine....I wheeled for a while with 33's, 5.43's, and a 4:1 case with the stock motor....Did great!

3.65*6.187(sumo)*5.29= 119:1!!! Very cool

I am 121.5:1 with 37's and it is VERY cool!!

I did not do a shackle reverse set up...And i Extended the front and the rear frame and made the mounts on the frame extensions....

Also, you will have to cut quite a bit of body with just stock springs.....With the toy axles....and 10" rims you will gain some added width for the highth difference.

Originally posted by Booger Weldz


if the deal falls through let me know, i can come visit and beg to use pats bender!!:D :D

Pat never got a bender:D

snide remarks are MORE than welcome!!

get a pre-nup before you do all that work on the girlfriends rig,make sure you get it in the break up.

Originally posted by larryboy
snide remarks are MORE than welcome!!

get a pre-nup before you do all that work on the girlfriends rig,make sure you get it in the break up. Very good idea:mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2: tell her "if u luv me u will sign this" lol;) :p

cool spelling on "luv" seabass:D

when you mount the springs in the front use the stock hardmount hanger (atleast i think you can with the toy axles). anyway you can make the wrangler springs fit if you spread the hanger out with a bfh. the reason for using it is one it is there and two it will move your front forward. this will keep the tires off the tub/back part of the fender under compression. this is a common problem with sami's and big tires. this also gives you like 4 or 5" of wheel base because with the wrangler springs it'll push the frontend forward. you will need to build a front bumper that will allow you to mount new spinghangers to it.

Booger..

Everything is straight forward cept the steering box... MOUNT the box as far forward as you can..
If not, you'll hit your pitman arm and tierod.. If you move it WAY out on the end of the frame, you'll be able to move your axle forward and get the tire to clear the fender...
BTY, I think it's cool your gonna build a ZUK, and if check'n out FatKids rig help'd you in make'n the Swap, :beer: :beer:

got any links to fatkidz sami?? we wanna check it out in more detail..!

the frame welds good, just use a mild rod and dont get crazy with the heat. and get that motor dirty! a zuk should never be that clean, it isnt right:flipoff2:

Originally posted by rockzooki
the frame welds good, just use a mild rod and dont get crazy with the heat. and get that motor dirty! a zuk should never be that clean, it isnt right:flipoff2:

7018 / 7014--medium penetration??