Maybe someone can help me with this:

We recently bought a DeWalt 14" saw that is made for the multicutter blade. Being that I have never used one before and no one I know had, the first time I used it the blade was ruined, possibly due to me/someone else pressing too hard. (I don't think it was me because I put MINIMAL pressure on it.) So, we go out and buy a new blade after just a few cuts. (OUCH!) So far, I am the only one to have used this new blade so I know that if it is ruined, it is my fault. But this time, I put ZERO pressure on it. I'm talking ZERO! I rested my hand on my leg so that I knew that not even the weight of my hand was resting on the blade. It cuts fine through anything that isn't flat on the cutting surface. But when it comes to something flat, it just stops cutting. Sparks stop, everything stops. I was told by the saw-shop guy to quit using it when this happens because it means it is dull. But this blade has so few cuts on it with so little pressure on any of them that I find it hard to believe that it could be dull already!

Supposedly, cost/cut using the multicutter blade is to be cheaper than an abrasive, but at this rate, each cut is costing me about $30! And to think that this saw cost so much more than a regular abrasive wheel saw! I think I'm ging to go back to the old abrasives unless someone can help me figure out what, if anything, I am doing wrong.

J. J.

too much Peyoootee???

lol


I dunno but this don't sound good????? anyone have info>???

BTW nothing cuts good on the flats...



blade on backwards?

The blade is on correct. At least, it spins the direction that the arrow points. I assume that this is correct, unless there is some sort of known secret that you always put the blade on OPPOSITE the way the arrow points! :)

J. J.

that is really odd. mine cuts flat stock great. they make several diffrent blades. from aluminum to stainless as well as diffrent tooth counts. maybe you have some funky blade. my saw is amazing and works great. just don't cut bundles of 1/8 wire rod. it will rip the teeth of the blade.

Originally posted by camo
just don't cut bundles of 1/8 wire rod. it will rip the teeth of the blade.

You actually attempted this?:eek:

I have about 2-300 cuts on mine with no problem. I was cutting some 2"x2"x.370" on sunday and it did a great job!

My "refurb" DeWalt unit has been on "backorder" for over 45 daze ...
Wish I had one to comment on ... :(

... which lends me to a question I had ...
How is it possable back order a refurbrished tool?
Wait for more duds to come back on the market :confused:

Originally posted by Jaffer
... which lends me to a question I had ...
How is it possable back order a refurbrished tool?
Wait for more duds to come back on the market :confused:

Maybe you'll get Patooyees when he sends it back :p

I've never used a multicutter, so take this FWIW....

I've killed a bunch of blades/drill bits by not using enough pressure on them. If you don't put enough pressure on the blade for it to cut, then you just develop heat and fry the cutting edges--this holds true for sawzall blades, drill bits, and bandsaw blades. (that's one of the reasons why drill bits tend to last much longer when used in a drill press rather than a hand drill)

How many teeth does everyone have on their blades? Mine seem really big an few. I just know that I hate this thing and want a plain-old abrasive. Basically, what I've heard is:

"You can't press on them because it will ruin the blade."
and
"You have to press on them or you will ruin the blade."

What I have experienced is:
The blade gets ruined when I press on it.
The blade gets ruined when I don't press on it.

This is BS!

Why do they call it a multicutter blade anyway? Is it because it's meant for wood but fortified just enough to call it a metal saw, too?

J. J.

When cutting medium and high carbon steel and any kind of stainless you need to watch out for work hardening. Keeping good pressure on the tool will help prevent this. Keeping good tool pressure allows the tool to remove enough metal to "take the heat away" with the chips/shavings. not applying enought pressure will cause heat to be concentrated on the cutting edge of the tool and soon you will have a work hardened part. Using proper cutting speed is also important, along with cooling and lubrication.

When drilling large diameter holes using pilot holes, the diameter of the pilot hole should be the same thickness as the web of the drill. This will prevent heat concentration on the corners of the bit.

I have never used a carbide bladed chop saw, but a few things to watch out for with any saw are: Tthe pitch should be less than the thickness of the material you are cutting, (the distance from one point on tooth to the corresponding point on the following (tip to tip) should always be such that it allows for more than one tooth to be in contact with the material at all times), never run a new blade back down an old cut. (like if your blade got half way through the cut and got dull, you need to turn the part over 180 degrees and start a new cut at the same location) This prevents the Kerf from being damaged. (a new blade will be wide than an old one)

Sorry for rambling on, I hope that wasnt so long winded that no one reads it :D

Exactly what type of steel have you been cutting? I assume it is mild steel or you wouldn't be mad? Are these mutli-cutters good for cutting higher grade steels?

On a side note, my DeWalt abbrasive chop saw dosen't cut steel layed flad worth a damn.

hey, I am pattoyees brother. What he said is correct.

The only thing that I can add is that I have always thoguht that the teeth on these blades were HUGE! When ordered I expected some fine teeth, ya know like on a sawzall blade for metal. These teeth are BIG! Like on a fast cutting wood circular saw blade.

Other than that I dont know. We have 2 blades and possibly ruined the first one. The second one is now having to be sharpened and we are scratching our heads...

CAMO> How long would it take you to cut through say a piece of 1.75 x .120 tubing? Just for reference....