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View Full Version : ? about factory tow ratings and differences between 1/2 and 3/4 tons


sevensandeights
06-06-2006, 08:43 PM
First off, sorry for the long post! I have a bunch of questions since I am new to towing anyting over 2k lbs so please bear with me.

I just bought 2004 1/2 suburban with the 5.3L, 3.73 gears and the factory towing package. This truck is rated to tow around between 7k and 8k lbs (could never find the definitive answer after many searches). The problem is that it comes with a hitch that is only rated at 5k lbs with a 600 lbs tongue weight. I was initially just going to go find a 3/4 suburban hitch (rated at 7500 lbs and 1k lbs tongue weight) and bolt it on but I found a bunch of threads in some RV forums showing massive OEM GM hitch failures. Most of the RV guys are saying junk the OEM hitch and get a weight distributing (WD) set-up but that seem like overkill. Besides, the RV guys seem to using big dollar trucks to tow big dollar trailers and just throw cash at problems instead of trouble shooting or doing anything themselves (granted, this is generalization). My budget is shot after buying the 'burban, a new trailer, and all the supplies (Prodigy controller, Rapid Hitch, new tie downs, etc.)

1.) My trailer is a dual axle open car hauler with axles on both brakes. It weighs 1400 lbs and my Jeep weighs arond 4300 lbs. Add some gear and tools and I am at 6k lbs. Does this set-up warrant a WD set-up?

2.) Do I have enough tuck to pull this load 5 times per year on 300 mile or less trips with minimal steep grades?

3.) What would you do about the factory 1/2 ton hitch? The vehicle should have no problem pulling the load but the hitch is technically overloaded.

4.) What is the difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton Chevy OEM hitches? The only difference I see is that the u-bracket that connectes the 2" receiver to the bumper has an extra gusset on the 3/4 tons.

5.) What are the significant differences between 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks? The main differences I know of are the engines, diff. gear ratios, and stiffer suspensions. Are the frames different? The stiffer rear suspension would resist squatting better but it would change any of the leverage on the rear frame that necessitates a WD set-up, right?

Ultimately, my dilemma is that my 'burban should be able to tow tow 6k lbs. The problem is the hitch is only rated for 5k lbs.

oldjeep
06-07-2006, 05:55 AM
Forget about the factory hitches and buy a class 4 hitch in the aftermarket.

Several class 4 and 5 hitches for 2004 Suburbans here

http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?model=Suburban&category=hitch&year=2004&make=Chevrolet&t1=&h=e

Even if you have no intention of towing really heavy, buy the heaviest hitch you can get. Over loading a hitch is a foolish idea that will end badly

YellowSub1962
06-07-2006, 08:30 AM
the vehicle should be the limiting factor of the tow rating, not the hitch. buy a class 5 and never worry about it again. That little nagging "I should have spent $50 more" in the back of your mind every time you hitch up is worth the 10 times the $50.

Sorry I can't help ya with the vehicle specific ratingsthough.

:usa:

sevensandeights
06-07-2006, 08:33 AM
Thanks for the input - you guys confirmed my suspicions. I can get a Class V by Putnam for $125 shipped so I think I just going pull the trigger.

ramv
06-07-2006, 08:34 AM
The frames are totally different since the suspension is different. The 3/4 ton has leafs, the 1/2 has a five link coil setup. My 3/4 ton is still rated 5000/600lb WC, 12000/1500 WD. For anything over 5000 lb I would use a WD hitch unless I had a dually anyway. They work far too well to not have one. Just buy an Equalizer setup and use the factory hitch.

chartdog
06-07-2006, 08:35 AM
I have a 2001 Suburban just like yours. I also have a 3/4 ton diesel P/U that I tow with. My trailer is similar to yours but when loaded with my 4runner the total trailer weight is about 6500. Here are my thoughts:

The Suburban is not up to the task. It has coil springs and cannot support the weight of the trailer tongue. A WD hitch would help this a lot and make it "technically" within specs. The truck would still be struggling and even with good trailer brakes I don't think the Suburban's brakes are adequate. Plus it is under powered with just a few passengers, I would hate to try to get on the freeway with a heavy trailer.

I have always heard a good rule of thumb that if you are within 1000# of your truck's rating you should be stepping up to a bigger tow rig. Sounds like you are about there.

You will get lots of disagreement on this type of question. Many people will tell you "I towed this with that and it has always been fine". I believe that we all can talk ourselves into stuff when it is all that we have. That does not make it a good idea. I can hear the "Vonage" phone theme song now.......

The Suburban is fine for towing a 3000# boat and could do what you are suggesting in a jam. I would not want to use mine as my "tow rig".