: 4 link coil suspension on full size Chevy


bgreen
04-17-2002, 12:01 AM
ok, I put my flame suit on so... if you want to, check out my un-finished suspension (http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/rear_suspension.htm ) and give me some constructive criticism. Other than "Dont use pipe" :flipoff2: I should have the rest done within the next few days and will post more pics. See sig for rest of trucks specs.

If/when the pipe fails then I can say "everyone told me not to use pipe, I should have listened" But for now, pipe is the most cost effective method.

Other than that, I would like to say that without Pirate 4x4 I probably would have never started a project like this. Thanks Guys. (Shameless plea for mercy :D)

http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/images/Tech/Rear_Suspension/4link_side.JPG

UPPER LINKS: 44" long and will be on a 10 degree angle when looking from the side. They will have a 30 Degree included angle when looking from the top. The frame mouts will be aprox. 29 inches apart and the axle mounts will be aprox. 5" apart. When looking from the side, the mounts will be aprox. 10 incher higher on the axle than the lower link mounts which are just below the center line of the axle.

LOWER LINKS: Are 41.75" long and on a 15 Degree angle when looking from the side, and are parallel to the frame when viewed from the top. they are 42 inches apart.

Instant Center should be around 74 inches from the center of the rear axle and about 44 inches off the ground (just under the seat). (Wheel base is 120")

:usa:

desertCJ
04-17-2002, 12:44 AM
Looks good dude. Looks like you have a pretty stout fullsize...I don't know I"m sure about that pipe though. I guess it's pretty tout stuff and it doesn't look like your doing much rockcrawling so it might hold up for a while. Why not just get some DOM? Cost? I just spent $160 on a 20 foot tube of DOM for my rear 4 link. You can check out tome pictures of my buildup on 4Link suspension thread I posted a couple days ago. I'm using 1.5" DOM with .250" wall thickness...and I'm not sure thats gonna be stout enough.At least for the lower links, because the lower elinks ARE going to hit something sooner or later and in rockcrawling it's going to be sooner rather than later.:smokin:

flmanyj
04-17-2002, 04:01 AM
i used pipe on mine and has been holding us for 3 years now if it is desined right it dont matter what you use

ps. DOM tubing has a seam just like pipe does



scott the hard core pipe wheeler

Realsquash
04-17-2002, 09:39 AM
It all looks pretty good to me. I would put some kind of crossmember between the upper spring mounts that you fabricated on the rear. The old chevy truck frames are really weak and i think you will get some frame twist from the weight on the springs.

Squash

Cliffy [JD]
04-17-2002, 10:09 AM
When you said pipe I thought you meant conduit.....

Anyway Some of my local welder/fabricators even call DOM pipe and when you ask for "tube" they think square tubing...

RockRover
04-17-2002, 04:36 PM
Originally posted by desertCJ
I'm using 1.5" DOM with .250" wall thickness...and I'm not sure thats gonna be stout enough.At least for the lower links, because the lower elinks ARE going to hit something sooner or later and in rockcrawling it's going to be sooner rather than later.:smokin:


I hear ya' man...I'm in the same boat...The 1.5" x .25 DOM + D70 + 42" TSL's + 50" link length makes the tubing look like a pencil...Sooooo, I've decided to sleeve the 1.5 with some 1.75 x .120 AND then hit it again (sleeve) with 2.0 x .120...I'm WAY too paranoid about a link failure and breaking off the ends of my new Kings as the axle wraps under my rig....:eek: Now I sure hope the 3/4 x 3/4 heims hold!

--D

NE-RokToy
04-17-2002, 05:22 PM
does the lower link have rubber bushings at both ends? Seems like it won't flex to much setup like that. Also why so soft on the springs? XJ springs are around 150-200 lbs/in/ Other then that fabrication looks real good!

chris demartini
04-17-2002, 06:56 PM
I have always wanted to do this to my 71 K5. Thanks for these pictures. How far did you move the spring hanger up? Is that peice of rectangle tube on top of the frame going to be your upper link mount? Do you have any pictures of where the links attatch to the axle? Are you putting coils in the front? Also, how much lift will this give? If I think of any more questions, I'll ask. Thanks in advance

desertCJ
04-17-2002, 07:59 PM
does the lower link have rubber bushings at both ends? Seems like it won't flex to much setup like that. Also why so soft on the springs? XJ springs are around 150-200 lbs/in/ Other then that fabrication looks real good!

I"m guessing he used those springs because trucks are really light in the back. I'm not sure how light but I remember that about trucks.

Abba
04-17-2002, 08:52 PM
I like.

Doc Nickel
04-17-2002, 11:47 PM
That's not too bad Brooke. One of these days I'll have to come by and see it in person...

Just a question though- you planning on anything but rubber/urethane busings at either end of the links? If you plan on twisting that thing up while offroad, rubber bushings won't take that much twist, and something's gonna give.

Doc.

Chief yelling alot
04-18-2002, 12:01 AM
what springs ?????

bgreen
04-18-2002, 01:59 AM
Why not just get some DOM? Cost?

$$$ and availability, several weeks to a few months to get some here :mad:

It all looks pretty good to me. I would put some kind of crossmember between the upper spring mounts that you fabricated on the rear.

Its in the works... will be another piece of 1.5" Sch 80 though.

does the lower link have rubber bushings at both ends? Seems like it won't flex to much setup like that. Also why so soft on the springs? XJ springs are around 150-200 lbs/in/ Other then that fabrication looks real good!

If I feel like I need more flex I will split the links and machine some 1.5" Acme threaded stubs for them. I dont really need too much flex for most the wheelin we do. So for now I am just going to run poly bushings. I whent with the xj springs because everything in the junkyards is under about 3 feet of snow right now. A club member traded them and a 1 ton np-205 to me for an old dana 44 housing. (with no shafts!) If the spring turn out to be too soft I can always get different ones later. Or add airbags. I will machine a swaybar if I need that as well.

How far did you move the spring hanger up? Is that peice of rectangle tube on top of the frame going to be your upper link mount? Do you have any pictures of where the links attatch to the axle? Are you putting coils in the front? Also, how much lift will this give? If I think of any more questions, I'll ask. Thanks in advance

Im not sure how far the spring hanger was moved. I just worked 16 hours so I will have to go out to the garage tomorrow to measure that. The rec tube is going to be the new body mount so that I can get rid of the 3" Blocks. The xmember is goin to be 3x3x.25 sq tube and the brackets will put the upper mounts on the upper arm about level with the bottom of the frame. I hope to put some Sway-a-way coil overs on the front next winter, if Im not happy with the rancho's, and to get a 90 deg + approach angle. Lift will be around 5 to 6 inches. But it will be adjustable + or - 3 to 4 inches.

I'm guessing he used those springs because trucks are really light in the back. I'm not sure how light but I remember that about trucks.

Yup, and Im going to be running a very minimal bed as well. Maybe going to add 100 lbs to what you see in the above pic. not counting when I have both winches onboard.

That's not too bad Brooke. One of these days I'll have to come by and see it in person... Just a question though- you planning on anything but rubber/urethane busings at either end of the links? If you plan on twisting that thing up while offroad, rubber bushings won't take that much twist, and something's gonna give.

See above...acme threaded stubs...

what springs ?????

'00 xj front springs


Thanks guys, I will post more pics this weekend. now I must get some :zzz:

:usa:

bgreen
04-18-2002, 10:41 PM
How far did you move the spring hanger up?

13.75 inches :usa:

BorregoK5
04-19-2002, 08:02 PM
I'm building a link setup as well. I just bought some 3" Johnny joints for the pivot points on my twin v beams. running the same 14bFF Disk as well. Good work, I like what you have! More pics! I can't tell from the pics so how does teh spring mount adjust. i like the rear cover integrated upper mount!

dog walker
04-19-2002, 08:16 PM
Now I sure hope the 3/4 x 3/4 heims hold!

LOL, 10 times overkill on the links and then you used those little heims???? There's your weak link!

Jeff

bgreen
04-19-2002, 08:57 PM
I'm building a link setup as well. I just bought some 3" Johnny joints for the pivot points on my twin v beams. running the same 14bFF Disk as well. Good work, I like what you have! More pics! I can't tell from the pics so how does teh spring mount adjust. i like the rear cover integrated upper mount!

I should have used Jonny's as well but I am trying to spend as little money as possible. I am doing a major re-work on the truck and its going to be pretty $pendy. Im not sure what the bill is up to now but so far I have done: Rear Discs, 203-205 Doubler, 45" Terra Tires on custom rims, dana 60 Front, bought another 8274, and a bunch of other small stuff. I think I still have about 1500 to go. Oh well. Still should have got Jonny Joints. Bushings will have to do for now. If I need more flex I will do the Acme threads or something similar.

I should be mostly complete this weekend and I will post more pics on sat, sun and mon. The coil buckets are adjustable by receiver hitch tubing. I was going to machine some sweet threaded billet aluminum mounts but I decided to fab them out of square tube so that people could see how and do the same them selves without having to pay a machine shop. Using tube is better anyway 'cause it will allow me to adjust the suspension in 1/2" Increments, and quite fast too. Threaded adjusters would take allot longer and be more damage prone.

I can take some higher deffinition pics for anyone interested. I will email them to you if you pm me, rather than waste everyones time viewing this thread. Ive got my camera set on the lowest quality now so I can get as detailed as you want...

:usa:

RockRover
04-20-2002, 09:00 AM
Originally posted by dog walker


LOL, 10 times overkill on the links and then you used those little heims???? There's your weak link!

Jeff

Yea, I figured that, but at 20k radial load rating, they should be fine...Right?

The reason I'm going sooooo overkill on the lower links is because I've seen way too many bends in .25 wall 'x' diameter. Everything here in New Mexico is break-over city.

--D

bgreen
04-20-2002, 11:22 PM
A few pics of my progress for those who are interested. More at www.alaskaoffroad.com (http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/)

http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/images/Tech/Rear_Suspension/4link_side.JPG

http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/images/Tech/Rear_Suspension/4link_uppers.JPG

Lower Links are 41.75" long on a 16 Degree Angle

Upper Links are on a 7.5 Degree Angle and are 44" long

Upper Mounts and cross member for the Upper arms are 3.5 x 3.5 x 3/16 square tubing.

Mounting tabs on axle and truss are 1/4" plate.

Spring mounts should be done in the next day or two. I'll post pics. :usa:

bgreen
04-21-2002, 09:37 PM
http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/images/Tech/Rear_Suspension/Coilbuckets_upper.JPG

http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/images/Tech/Rear_Suspension/4link_rear.JPG

Pretty much everything is tacked together now, should have tires back on it soon.:D

desertCJ
04-21-2002, 10:15 PM
I"m thinking yu might have to go back and put johmy joints or hiems on at least on end of your links. I think you're gonna have a lot of binding width that setup. You'll find out soon enough I guess.Later:rasta:

bgreen
04-22-2002, 12:47 AM
If I feel like I need more flex I will split the links and machine some 1.5" threaded studs for them. I dont really need too much flex for most the wheelin we do. So for now I am just going to run poly bushings.

well...I've been thinking about it and I think that I will just go ahead and do the threaded studs anyway. I wanted to get everything fabbed up and tacked down before I did that, but I think that you guys have talked me into it. I'm not 100% sure yet, but I should have everything fully welded tomorrow so that I can see how it articulates. :D