Alright Guys, these are the two that I am looking at, no bashing cause you dont like dave or brent :D I am not so concerned with the back cause essentially, from what I can tell they are the same...

--Trailtough- essentially a larger Missing link

--Asian Auto Parts - Shackle Reversal

:D :D :D :D
What do you think, and please , no Poseurs !! if you runnin one, or seen one run , tell me what you think and what you know!

my op? do your own.

what about glenn's setup over at rocky road outfitters

after watching them both work this weekend on two different trucks......i would probably go with the shackle reversal.....missing links are a good cheap way to get flex....but you loose some control when using them.....the shackle reversal is a little smoother riding.....the missing links tended to open up and them SLAP down when climbing large obsticles......i'm running missing links now and am probably goin to do the shackle reversal this summer

I believe the RRO and the TT setup is the same one.

<------uses shackel reversal, has flex

<img src=http://members.aol.com/zuksrule/images/avatar.jpg>

Originally posted by high5
my op? do your own.

how praytell would I go about doing that?! I am a terrible welder especially on the joke of a frame that is under the zukis (read: thin) maybe if I was scwafish I could do it but I think I better stick to bolt ons, safter for everyone else!!:flipoff2:

AAP's kit isn't bolt on - it needs some welding to install it.

As for getting ahold of one - that's different story..

Reeeeeeeeeeeeallly? What welding is req?:eek:

I just checked daves/ Geoffs Install article on Off-road and .. well read it for yourself, youall be the judge, does the kit or doesnt the kit require welding?


http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm

You have to weld in a spacer that passes through the stock rear frame shackle mount, if you can weld at all, you can do this. Or you could fab some kind of tapered shackle, but you'd probably have to weld to do that too :D

Just build a kit yourself....Not too hard to do!

Originally posted by kestrel
I just checked daves/ Geoffs Install article on Off-road and .. well read it for yourself, youall be the judge, does the kit or doesnt the kit require welding?


http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm

That is for the Canyon States Components Kit..

Which is no longer available. So to keep from stepping on toes, Dave is duplicating parts of it, except certain parts are welded on, not bolt on. Don't worry - the welded on parts are simple, and easy to do (according to dave)

I called earlier today, and it appears I'll have the kit next week.

got the TT kit with missing links front and rear andi love it check out pics on my pagehttp://www.jims4x4.com

I just got my TT kit on but haven't had time to take her wheelin'. I can say that the on road ride is a little spooky with soft springs and missing links, but who cares about on road ride when you can flex like mad in the rocks.:D

Originally posted by tdavis
AAP's kit isn't bolt on - it needs some welding to install it.

As for getting ahold of one - that's different story..


The only part of the CSC kit that requires welding is for the rear sleeves on the frame for the wider shackles. Basically a tack weld will do. Other than that, it's just a bunch of drilling.

I've got the CSC setup front and rear and have been quite happy with it. I have yet to see or drive a rig with the TT setup so I can't really comment about it.

The only pitfall that I see in the shackle reversal on the CSC setup is that you will need a long slip front shaft. I'm not sure of the availability either. Dave would be the best bet for that answer.

EDIT: I'm not sure what changes Dave made to his new setup though. I believe that the kit listed on the RRO site was also the CSC kit. Glenn would be able to confirm or deny that though.

Hey Mark,
I hear you on the front driveshaft for the S/R. The reason I went with the TT kit on the front is so I wouldn't have to replace my $400 TT brifeild shaft and 2" extended slip yoke I bought just prior to the YJ swap. Even with the 2" slip yoke and 6" spline and a 1 3/4" spacer I'm pulling most of the spline on full droop. Damn this thing is going to flex out......I need to find some rocks.

Originally posted by zuk88
Hey Mark,
I hear you on the front driveshaft for the S/R. The reason I went with the TT kit on the front is so I wouldn't have to replace my $400 TT brifeild shaft and 2" extended slip yoke I bought just prior to the YJ swap. Even with the 2" slip yoke and 6" spline and a 1 3/4" spacer I'm pulling most of the spline on full droop. Damn this thing is going to flex out......I need to find some rocks.

Damn right you need to find some rocks. I've been doing some work on the doors I got from poppy a couple weeks ago. The passenger door is mostly done so it's going to be time to start the drivers door and the half doors will be done.

Apparently my JD2 bender just arrived so I can start bending some stuff also :D

I gotta still replace a motor mount that I must have broke awhile ago and didn't know about. Got a set of forever mounts from Roadless Gear on the way. I need to drop by scwafish's place now that the old girl is back together and get hs .02:D :beer:

IMOP any type of Ml or drop shackles suck:barf: :barf: In the front they do as stated prior, unfolding while going up hills and unfolding while you try to drive up a large rock or ledge. In the rear (shackle reversal w/ ML) they induce spring wrap.

The 99.99% reason my truck is still in the building stage, I got rid of my ML's, the other .01% is money and time:(