I have searched and read some very good threads...but none of them really hit on what I am looking for.

I am looking to buy a new diesel truck; I have always owned Fords and for work trucks I still think they cannot be beat.

In the research I have done something that has been popping up is that the Duramax is getting consistent 23 mpg compared to the Powerstroke varying from 16-21.

I am looking to buy a Daily Driver not something that will be used as a workhorse - I will only be hauling lighter loads and towing a boat on occasion.

4wd is a must as is extended cab

Things I am looking for input with:

-Manual or automatic -- Driving a standard daily does not bother me

-Best fuel economy

-New or used -- with current financing both monthly payments are the same, I am leaning toward new

-configuration -- extended cab is a must; should I go all out and buy a crew cab - long bed vs. short bed (my thoughts are = ext. cab long bed, CC short bed)


---

I will be doing driving in Southeast Kentucky - I just accepted a district executive position with Boy Scouts of America. They are going to provide me with a vehicle allotment of $450-$500 a month. The driving will be in rather mountainous areas but primarily on the highway and back roads to access small towns/communities where Scout Troops are.

You seem to have answered most of your questions. Test drive all 3, talk to people who own each and hopefully they will be honest about the pros/cons.

23 mpg consistently with the dmax? I don't think so.

I have an 05 Duramax CC shortbox. I would never drive a standard everyday, I don't care what you say. I like the auto in trafffic. It tows fantastic, 23,000 miles and nothing but oil changes. I think you will find all the big three are very comperable in stockish form. I think the Duramax is the quietest of the three.

I only wish I got near 23!! Try consistent 16. If I stick around 2K rpms(65 mph) empty it will hold 19-20. Most mixed driving it settles around 17, and there aren't many times on the highway where you can go consistent 65, especially when the speed limit is 75!

If it is flat, I get 20 in my PSD excursion, if not I get 17. In the city i get 13-14. If you are going use it as a DD, no way I would do a manual. I would definatly go auto. Saying that, I would go Ford or Chevy. Dodge trucks are not as comfortable and their automatics are not as good. The Ford and chevy autos are much better... The ford and chevy are both real comfortable. just pick the one with a price you like and features you like.

Well the D-Max/6spd is no longer avaliable :mad3: :mad3: but there are some nice used ones out there. I can get/have gotten 23-24mpg with my D-Max/6spd if I keep it under 70mpg.It's an ex-cab,LB,4x4. I'm running 255"s so I'm running lower RPM's than stock. Usurally I get 17-18 combined mpg but that's running 75+ mph,driving in town and having my chip cranked up while in town. I have a hard time not playing at stoplights too otherwise I think I'd get 20+mpg all the time. I have modifyed my stock air box and I took my muffler off. I also change my fuel filter often. BTW this is all hand calculated figures. If you do get a PSD get a 7.3 otherwise it's a guessing game on reliability. D-Max will pull better ,last longer,and get better mpg. My dad has a D-Max/Ally and he consistently gets 19-22mpg. These are early ones. 01' and 02'. The 04.5'+ will not get these kind of #'s. I personally would look for a nice 01'-03'. A manuel is the only way to go IMO. Will make a auto look silly on hills and handles more power. With the Ally,you are limited to about 90hp over stock if you chip it.Otherwise you will fry your tranny which is around $4000 to have a good one built that will handle a good bit of power. With the 6spd you will need an aftermarket clutch which runs around $1000 for a good DD one and $2000 for one like mine{see sig} that will hold up to the abuse of truck pulling and high HP.

I run 165/70/13 tires on my 2nd gen CTD and get 45 mpg in my truck as long as I keep it under 45 mph. It's worth it!

I run 165/70/13 tires on my 2nd gen CTD and get 45 mpg in my truck as long as I keep it under 45 mph. It's worth it!



:laughing:

Doesn't sound like you need a diesel if you're not going to tow much with it. It will take years for you to recoup the cost of a diesel over a half ton if you're looking purely at gas mileage.

:shaking: :shaking: Just because you're not getting it doesn't mean it's not happening. I know others getting similar milege. One local has a reg cab D-Max/6spd w/ an Alluminum flatbed and he's getting better than I am. He asked I said what I as well as others I know get. Now if you can't help him out don't waste breath :shaking: !

I got 22 mpg with a edge oj/att on the highway with my lly duramax with stock tires. My lb7 with tts tow tune and 35's gets around 18-20. I would go with an auto. The tow haul mode works awesome. It does everything you would want a manual to do without having to push in a clutch or search for gears JMO.

It does everything you would want a manual to do without having to push in a clutch or search for gears JMO.[/QUOTE]

Except hold speed on hill's :( . We have one of each and there is a lot of difference. FYI if you Dyno them stock,the Ally will make around 265-275rwhp the 6spd makes somewhat more. Mine made 298rwhp stock.

You always hear claims of big mileage and they never seem to pan out. Usually the people claiming these numbers are using the onboard readout or odometer to figure mileage. First thing you need to do is calibrate your speedo / odometer. There is no way a 3/4 ton 4wd auto with oversized tires is getting 20 + mpg.:laughing: :laughing:


:shaking: :shaking: Just because you're not getting it doesn't mean it's not happening. I know others getting similar milege. One local has a reg cab D-Max/6spd w/ an Alluminum flatbed and he's getting better than I am. He asked I said what I as well as others I know get. Now if you can't help him out don't waste breath :shaking: !

Mileage aside, I've got an older ('01) CTD/Auto & the one thng I don't like is that the tranny hunts a little too much on steep hills at freeway speeds.

& if they're footing the bill for an allowance, I'd go with the crew instead of an extended cab. You'll be hauling lots of kids around & it's a little tight for bigger kids.

Really all 3 are good trucks, one is not better then the other, all of them have good motors and good trannys, but, dodge only has a 4 speed auto, where Ford and GM have a 5 and 6.
Just buy what you like for Style, and interior.
I bought a dodge.

Since you don't believe me here's a bunch of others getting similar MPG.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80132 And another

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78564r

Its been said, but if you are towing light loads and a boat, do you really need that much truck? I guess the question would be, what types of loads and what size boat. Last week, I bought a 2003 chevy ext cab z71 with the 5.3L, 285/75/16s and 3.73 gears with 37k miles for $18.2k. I drove it 500 miles home and got 19 mpg, and thats including sitting in construction/traffic for over an hour, that is also adjusted for tire size. 500 miles is plenty of time to calibrate the speedo using a stopwatch and mile markers :) I bought a truck for several reasons, one of which is to tow my 21' Chaparral. The boat plus trailer is somewhere between 4000 and 4500 lbs, add in gear and gas, and it will be near 5000 lbs. Truck is rated at over 7000 lbs.

My point is that I was looking at diesels also (all used prices), but the diesels were all consistently in the $25k range, more if you want low mileage. I really dont tow or haul that much, so the half ton works for me for both DD and light towing duties.

Mine made 298rwhp stock.


An 01?? I don't think the factory rating for an LB7 is even that high?

I've got an 05 LLY that is rated at 305 HP from the factory, and that is crank at sea level?

I call BS on that one:laughing: :laughing:

I just got an '06 CC short-bed Duramax LBZ. I use it for my DD and like it. Its brand new so the hand calc'd mileage is only 16+/- mpg. Should get a bit better as the truck gets broken in.

Since you don't believe me here's a bunch of others getting similar MPG.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80132 And another

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78564r

You mean I have to register on a chebby board to read this crap? :flipoff2:

An 01?? I don't think the factory rating for an LB7 is even that high?

I've got an 05 LLY that is rated at 305 HP from the factory, and that is crank at sea level?

I call BS on that one:laughing: :laughing:
The guy has BS falling out of his ears, let him have his fun in his warped little fantasy world. :)

The guy has BS falling out of his ears, let him have his fun in his warped little fantasy world. :)



Hey now...he posted a few links with people getting the same mileage. It's on the internet and it's a site with a bunch of Duramax guys sucking each other off...so it must be true!!!!!!!!! :flipoff2:

Hey now...he posted a few links with people getting the same mileage. It's on the internet and it's a site with a bunch of Duramax guys sucking each other off...so it must be true!!!!!!!!! :flipoff2:
Ooops, my fault.

Ford owns cummins ya know.






I bet peoplehere actually believe that one too :blacklol:

An 01?? I don't think the factory rating for an LB7 is even that high?

I've got an 05 LLY that is rated at 305 HP from the factory, and that is crank at sea level?

I call BS on that one:laughing: :laughing:

:laughing: You don't even know your the #'s on your own truck :laughing: .These are factory rated #'s. LB7 01'-04' has 300/520,a 04.5'-06' LLY has 310/590,
04.5-06' with 6spd 300/520, and the 06'+ LBZ has 360/650. I can gladly refer you to numerous diesel places that will back my statements as to milege Wade @ ATS 303-931-0674, Michael @ Super Diesel Performance 720-404-9433,John at Dynadroit Diesel 303-882-2181,ect. Any and all of these guys will back what I have stated and also vouch that I did indeed state fact's and know my facts.
If you don't believe my stock 298rwhp,PM Rockstomper,he made the same #'s with his 03' D-Max 6spd.

As to Ford owning Cummins,that's the biggest bunch of internet BS these is :shaking: . Ask any big diesel shop and see what you get for answers.

:laughing: You don't even know your the #'s on your own truck :laughing: .These are factory rated #'s. LB7 01'-04' has 300/520,a 04.5'-06' LLY has 310/590,
04.5-06' with 6spd 300/520, and the 06'+ LBZ has 360/650. I can gladly refer you to numerous diesel places that will back my statements as to milege Wade @ ATS 303-931-0674, Michael @ Super Diesel Performance 720-404-9433,John at Dynadroit Diesel 303-882-2181,ect. Any and all of these guys will back what I have stated and also vouch that I did indeed state fact's and know my facts.
If you don't believe my stock 298rwhp,PM Rockstomper,he made the same #'s with his 03' D-Max 6spd.

As to Ford owning Cummins,that's the biggest bunch of internet BS these is :shaking: . Ask any big diesel shop and see what you get for answers.
First idiot, black text owns you.

Second, you have no clue where they measure HP, do you? :laughing: :laughing:

First idiot, black text owns you.

WTF does that mean?
Second, you have no clue where they measure HP, do you? :laughing: :laughing:

Since you are so smart why don't you tell me a few things.What kind of HP will a stock D-Max turbo hold up to? How many PSI of Boost can it take? Which chip makes the fastest 1/4 mile times?

HP is measured at the Flywheel for the factory #'s and the 298 was on the dyno at the Rear Wheels.

Since you are so smart why don't you tell me a few things.What kind of HP will a stock D-Max turbo hold up to? How many PSI of Boost can it take? Which chip makes the fastest 1/4 mile times?

HP is measured at the Flywheel for the factory #'s and the 298 was on the dyno at the Rear Wheels.
I don't care about Dmax turbos because Dmax's are light duty engines. My truck has a medium duty engine.

If it was 298 at the rear wheels, it would be close to 390hp at the flywheel, hence why you are full of fucking shit :shaking:

:laughing: You don't even know your the #'s on your own truck :laughing: .These are factory rated #'s. LB7 01'-04' has 300/520,a 04.5'-06' LLY has 310/590,
04.5-06' with 6spd 300/520, and the 06'+ LBZ has 360/650. I can gladly refer you to numerous diesel places that will back my statements as to milege Wade @ ATS 303-931-0674, Michael @ Super Diesel Performance 720-404-9433,John at Dynadroit Diesel 303-882-2181,ect. Any and all of these guys will back what I have stated and also vouch that I did indeed state fact's and know my facts.
If you don't believe my stock 298rwhp,PM Rockstomper,he made the same #'s with his 03' D-Max 6spd.

As to Ford owning Cummins,that's the biggest bunch of internet BS these is :shaking: . Ask any big diesel shop and see what you get for answers.



305 310 whatever, I really don't care.

I'm just trying to figure out how your truck only loses 2 horsepower from the flywheel to the crank?


Checked on what Scott had, he said 296 to the wheels, 2wd stick. I stand corrected. Mine must do at least 301 then!

305 310 whatever, I really don't care.

I'm just trying to figure out how your truck only loses 2 horsepower from the flywheel to the crank?

PM' me and we can discuss this or we can meet up when I'm in CO next time. I have dyno sheets with proof of 286.4rwhp stock @ 3100rpm. The Dyno only prints out a reading every 100rpm.The 298rwhp was not at an ever rpm so it's not on paper.I should have used the 286.4 so I could prove it but all the same I can prove the 286.4. Rockstomper probably can prove his 298 though. I can link you to all the dyno results from that day that I dyno'd. It was put on by the Colorado Powerstroke Club BTW.

Scottfj40: You identifyed yourself. Quit wasting your time trying to act like you know D-Max's can't get 24mpg when you don't even own one. :shaking:

The guy has BS falling out of his ears, let him have his fun in his warped little fantasy world. :)
Don't forget, I am on tons of Dodge boards that have people say they are getting 28MPG + should I post those links too?
Diesel guys seem to stroke themselfs about MPG's

Right:laughing: How about I take a pic of my overhead readout showing my 03 Superduty getting 31. It does not make it accurate. So how are you calculating your mileage? All your mods make the computer readouts inaccurate.

BTW, i get my info from a fleet of trucks in real world circumstances, not of the internet.

How many diesel trucks have you personally owned? I have owned them since 1985 when I bought a Ford, then 2 91 d250's, 94 d2500, 98 d2500 and currently own a 99 d2500 4x4 and a 03 F250 4x4.

that does not count the real trucks running CAT, Cummins and Navistar power.



Since you don't believe me here's a bunch of others getting similar MPG.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80132 And another

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78564r

Don't forget, I am on tons of Dodge boards that have people say they are getting 28MPG + should I post those links too?
Diesel guys seem to stroke themselfs about MPG's


Two things that some people just HAVE to lie about. How much money they lost at blackjack last night, and their diesel truck mileage:D

JTMcC.

Don't forget, I am on tons of Dodge boards that have people say they are getting 28MPG + should I post those links too?
Diesel guys seem to stroke themselfs about MPG's
No shit, there are morons regardless of what brand they choose. :laughing:

Don't forget, I am on tons of Dodge boards that have people say they are getting 28MPG + should I post those links too?
Diesel guys seem to stroke themselfs about MPG's


The mileage champs all seem to have a stick, 2wd w/ the smallest truck possible and 3.55 gears. I'd be surprised if you couldn't get 20mpg with that (empty).

Right:laughing: How about I take a pic of my overhead readout showing my 03 Superduty getting 31. It does not make it accurate. So how are you calculating your mileage? All your mods make the computer readouts inaccurate.

BTW, i get my info from a fleet of trucks in real world circumstances, not of the internet.

How many diesel trucks have you personally owned? I have owned them since 1985 when I bought a Ford, then 2 91 d250's, 94 d2500, 98 d2500 and currently own a 99 d2500 4x4 and a 03 F250 4x4.

that does not count the real trucks running CAT, Cummins and Navistar power.

All my #'s are hand calculated. I'm running 33" tires and so I have to add 11% because they don't go around an many times. I know about the guys claiming 28mpg but 21-24mpg is not unlikely. We currently have 2 Duramax's. Before we ran gassers. My 97' 2500 ex-cab 4x4 454 5spd could get 16mpg if driven carefully. Most of the time it got 13-14mpg. It has nothing to do with diesel MPG it has to do with facts.

Right:laughing: How about I take a pic of my overhead readout showing my 03 Superduty getting 31. It does not make it accurate. So how are you calculating your mileage? All your mods make the computer readouts inaccurate.

BTW, i get my info from a fleet of trucks in real world circumstances, not of the internet.

How many diesel trucks have you personally owned? I have owned them since 1985 when I bought a Ford, then 2 91 d250's, 94 d2500, 98 d2500 and currently own a 99 d2500 4x4 and a 03 F250 4x4.

that does not count the real trucks running CAT, Cummins and Navistar power.

I dunno if its a ford thing or what but my stock 06 dodge is fairly consistent with readout on my screen, withing 1mpg the last 2 times I checked it

Ben

I love a scared dodge boy, there is a new leader among the diesels!

Best I have gotten was 22mpg going 70mph, strictly highway on 245's and mines an auto.
I have also dynoed mine, was done on a superflow auto dyne, corrections were calculated for sea level, pickup was on driveshaft, corrections were also made for turbo charger and pressure differential at 5400 ft. Dynoed at 269hp and 477lb tq. Not bad for a stock chebby.
As for the original question, I would stay away from fords 6 liter, lots of known problems, wait till the new powerstroke is released, or go with a 7.3
Dodge has a great engine, but the rest is a dodge. Dodge autos are nothing great, manuals are much better.
Dmax is a great engine, LB7 and the new LBZ are the best. The LLY has some OH problems when using a big tune under the right circumsances.
They are all pretty good, whichever one you like best

I don't care about Dmax turbos because Dmax's are light duty engines. My truck has a medium duty engine.



you don't actualy believe that... do you?
but I spose you DO work for a dodge dealer...

whats so light duty about a 5500 series truck? or a school bus...:shaking:

you don't actualy believe that... do you?
but I spose you DO work for a dodge dealer...

whats so light duty about a 5500 series truck? or a school bus...:shaking:
No, it's a fact you retard, regardless of where I work. :shaking:

No, it's a fact you retard, regardless of where I work. :shaking:

You just can't deal with the fact that D-Max's are taking the #1 slot away from Cummins can you :laughing: ? They are currently beating the Cummins on the track and in the modifyed class the sled pulls. Within a year or two they will be hitting the extreme modifyed class very hard. There are numerous guys currently building 1000+RWHP D-Max's and I know of one that will be well beyond that for HP. Plus the D-Max's are hitting 450-500k miles without problems.

Are you stock? Try slapping on some 35's and a chip.

I dunno if its a ford thing or what but my stock 06 dodge is fairly consistent with readout on my screen, withing 1mpg the last 2 times I checked it

Ben

You just can't deal with the fact that D-Max's are taking the #1 slot away from Cummins can you :laughing: ? They are currently beating the Cummins on the track and in the modifyed class the sled pulls. Within a year or two they will be hitting the extreme modifyed class very hard. There are numerous guys currently building 1000+RWHP D-Max's and I know of one that will be well beyond that for HP. Plus the D-Max's are hitting 450-500k miles without problems.
Are you a tool or what? Cummins kill dmaxs all day long, and you can't handle it you internet reading pussy. Dmax's hitting 400K+ BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

No, it's a fact you retard, regardless of where I work. :shaking:


no, I'm serrious, what makes you think a the duramax used in 5500 series trucks, and school busses isn't a medium duty motor...

Are you going to tell me that the powerstroke isn't a medium duty motor now too? I mean.. I really want to know where you get your "facts" from..:laughing:

Boy this (http://www.internationaldelivers.com/assets/medium/4200_lg.jpg) sure looks like a medium duty rig to me

So does this (http://www.commtruck.ford.com/Media/Images/OEMExteriors/50CTGEA5.JPG) for some odd reason...

What about this (http://www.gmc.com/mediumduty/images/topkick/photos/md_topkick_schoolbus_lrg.jpg) one here..?

But I can see where you could be easily confused... when dodge doesn't make anything but lightduty truck, it would be easy to not know what a medium duty truck, or motor really is..

Come to think of it.. does anyone even USE the 5.9 cummins in a medium duty truck these days? other than ford..? maybe there is a reason there.... nah... can't be.. cummins rules!!! CTD! CTD! CTD!

Since you are so smart why don't you tell me a few things.What kind of HP will a stock D-Max turbo hold up to? How many PSI of Boost can it take? Which chip makes the fastest 1/4 mile times?

HP is measured at the Flywheel for the factory #'s and the 298 was on the dyno at the Rear Wheels.

We don't care what the duradud is doing. My Cummins is putting out enough power for me. I call BS on the mileage. No new 3/4 ton diesel truck (gm, ford, dodge) is going go do over 20 mpg. A 12 valve Cummins might be able to do it.

What kind of dyno did you use and what was the correction factor? Anyone else dyno with different brand of motor for reference?

no, I'm serrious, what makes you think a the duramax used in 5500 series trucks, and school busses isn't a medium duty motor...

Are you going to tell me that the powerstroke isn't a medium duty motor now too? I mean.. I really want to know where you get your "facts" from..:laughing:

Boy this (http://www.internationaldelivers.com/assets/medium/4200_lg.jpg) sure looks like a medium duty rig to me

So does this (http://www.commtruck.ford.com/Media/Images/OEMExteriors/50CTGEA5.JPG) for some odd reason...

What about this (http://www.gmc.com/mediumduty/images/topkick/photos/md_topkick_schoolbus_lrg.jpg) one here..?

But I can see where you could be easily confused... when dodge doesn't make anything but lightduty truck, it would be easy to not know what a medium duty truck, or motor really is..

Come to think of it.. does anyone even USE the 5.9 cummins in a medium duty truck these days? other than ford..? maybe there is a reason there.... nah... can't be.. cummins rules!!! CTD! CTD! CTD!
:shaking: :shaking: :shaking:

:shaking: :shaking: :shaking:

no proof still? come on man... I expect some proof to back up your "facts"

a no B.S. milage rating on my 4.5 LLY was 16.8mpg highway/town with the stock tires. with a 265 tire and no speedo correction, it dropped to 15.4mpg

my fathers 96 12v cummins gets about 18-19.5 mpg highway and 15-16mpg town.

i dont know why diesel drivers say these crazy numbers, i cant get them.

Are you a tool or what? Cummins kill dmaxs all day long, and you can't handle it you internet reading pussy. Dmax's hitting 400K+ BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: You are pretty in the dark when it comes to compitetion aren't you. I will offer to race your CTD but since you probably don't have any real mod's it would make you look very silly :smokin: . I agree with Jrod-13 you need to show some proof of your BS.

What kind of dyno did you use and what was the correction factor? Anyone else dyno with different brand of motor for reference?[/QUOTE]

Yes there were a lot of trucks that dyno'd. Here we go,here's a list.


Barry G., 2001 Dodge, 244/474 - 310/643 - 310/643
Darin M., 2002 Dodge, 348/700 - 346/782 - 352/765
Terry L., 2001 Ford, 296/624 - 294/626 - 293/627
Ryan K., 2000 Ford,
Dave Z., 2001 Ford, 460/942
AJ Z., 2000 Ford, 245/524 - 313/738 - 339/691
Johnny J., 2001 Dodge, 425/829 - 427/1036 - 420/1020
Jeremy L., 2000 Dodge, 339/699 - 312/647 - 420/973
Micheal H., 2002 Dodge, 560/1125 - 573/ - 573/
Tim C., 1998 Dodge, 341/892 - 344/885 - 340/868
Cody W., 2000 Dodge, 450/1000 - 442/984 - 441/984
Chris S., 2002 Ford, 307/652 - 299/695 - 305/653
Greg V., 2003 Dodge, 305/596 - 280/566 - 268/560
Kurt S, 1992 Dodge, 428/890 - 428/937 - 524/1063
Jeff W., 2000 Ford, 275/634 - 273/632 - 273/624
Dave H., 2003 Dodge, 326/630 - 300/569 - 303/572
Justin C, 2001 Chevy, 486/958 - 479/977 - 476/974
Rocky H., 1979 Ford Cummins, 413/904 - 412/960 - 412/959
Greg R., 2002 Ford, 313/712 - 298/668 - 308/670
Marc B., 2005 Dodge, 480/879 - 516/1117 - 511/1113
Chad B., 2005 Ford, 387/677 - 375/668 - 301/452
Brandon S., 2005 Dodge, 496/984 - 521/1054 - 614/1257
David G., 1999 Dodge, 668/1275 - 675/1276 - 675/1276
Justin M., 2001 Dodge, 665/1198 - 675/
Mike M., 2005 Dodge, 290/559 - 292/548 - 293/567
Kyle S., 2001 Chevy, 286/510 - 476/1013 - 450/849
Shay B., 2000 Ford, 385/785 - 390/795
Kevin J., 2003 Dodge, 418/849 - 414/843 - 411/844
Bob B., Dodge, 375/848 - 372/843 - 261/611
Jordan A., 1995 Dodge, 381/
WIllie W., 203 Dodge, 492/966 - 468/954 - 401/839
John A., 2002 GMC, 475/1001 - 468/993
Lynn H., 1999 Dodge, 263/560 - 264/561 - 259/549
ALan B., 1997 Ford, 349/700 - 381/784 - 387/772
Lance C., 1999 Dodge, 263/575 - 263/579 - 260/582
Josh P., 2004 GMC, 633/1057 - 626/1074 - 551/986
Josh R., 2002 Dodge, 337/737 - 330/721 - 325/704


I'm Kyle S
John A is John @ Dynadroit.

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: You are pretty in the dark when it comes to compitetion aren't you. I will offer to race your CTD but since you probably don't have any real mod's it would make you look very silly :smokin: . I agree with Jrod-13 you need to show some proof of your BS.
You are a tool, but I'll race you. Since you threw down the challenge, bring your punk ass down here. I only have 100 hp injectors and an edge comp box. Bring your silly ass bitch truck down here, and I'll send you home with your pussy wrapped around your ears.:flipoff2: :laughing:

We don't care what the duradud is doing. My Cummins is putting out enough power for me. I call BS on the mileage. No new 3/4 ton diesel truck (gm, ford, dodge) is going go do over 20 mpg. A 12 valve Cummins might be able to do it.

What kind of dyno did you use and what was the correction factor? Anyone else dyno with different brand of motor for reference?

The best I ever got was with the 2wd dodge 91's the auto would get 21 and the 5 speed would do 23 on the hwy.

A dyno is not real world or even the track. :shaking: He is welcome to come on down here and try his luck against the trucks we have at Diesel Innovations. :D

Here is a 11.55 run

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/images/snow_white_cott.jpg

Here's a fellow D-Max owner for ya. :cool2:


I'm sure the video(s) will be available soon for any doubters. I have been waiting, hoping, praying and spending for the last several years to finally make a sub 11.00 second run.

Now that the "monkey is off my back", there are some people I need to thank for making the perfomance this weekend possible:

Steve Cole - TTS Powersystems to make the power (at the event)
Joe Webb - Suncoast tranny to put it to the ground (at the event)
Mike L
Eric Merchant - M/A (at the event)
Michael Oakes - Super Diesel (cp3 mods)
Dennis Perry & crew - TS Performance (awesome event the last 2 years - although I enjoyed this year much more than last!)

In addition, there are many others who have helped supply knowledge, ideas, parts & bs to make this a reality... Thanks to each and every one.

While it is nice to be first, I hope this club quickly grows in membership .

_________________
2003 2500 HD Ext cab S/B 4WD: 10.89 @ 126.41.
10 Second Club - member 001.

BTW I sure hope you have a turbo on your soon to buy list. Too bad you're over 2000miles away or I'd come over and show you how it's done.

The best I ever got was with the 2wd dodge 91's the auto would get 21 and the 5 speed would do 23 on the hwy.

A dyno is not real world or even the track. :shaking: He is welcome to come on down here and try his luck against the trucks we have at Diesel Innovations. :D

Here is a 11.55 run

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/images/snow_white_cott.jpg


Is that a picture of "slow white?"

We don't care what the duradud is doing. My Cummins is putting out enough power for me. I call BS on the mileage. No new 3/4 ton diesel truck (gm, ford, dodge) is going go do over 20 mpg. A 12 valve Cummins might be able to do it.


My last fill-up (hand calculated) with a 70/30 highway/city driving mix came out to 19.64 mpg. The best that I ever got was straight highway driving from Fort Worth to San Antonio using summer blend diesel, no AC and cruise set on 70. 23.12 mpg hand calculated.

My truck was unloaded in both instances. I run 265/75/16 tires, with a Predator programmer on the 65hp setting. The EGR is disabled.

It is a 2004.5 LLY crew cab 4x4 2500HD with the Allison tranny.

Here is a 11.55 run

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/images/snow_white_cott.jpg

Nice run!

Here's a pretty quick 24 valve

http://www.northtexaspowerstrokes.com/users/dockboy/c-hawk.MOV

Face it, all 3 makes can be made to go fast. Just not all of them get 800 mpg like what's his names truck. :flipoff2:

I got a cunt hair less than 21 mpg, with the ac on, and the cruise control on running on the interstate on my way to maine, got those numbers twice. It was hand calculated, no overhead in my truck.

I'd also like to apologize for treating this section like off topic :emb:

Is that a picture of "slow white?"


You mean Snow White. All 5200 lbs and daily driven . David has a few tricks up his sleave for this season.

You mean Snow White. All 5200 lbs and daily driven . David has a few tricks up his sleave for this season.

I've heard his nickname was SLOW white. He came to a dyno run a few years ago and ran his mouth off about how much power he made. He did not do very well on the dyno. I'm sure his truck is faster now, but his nickname stuck.

I'd also like to apologize for treating this section like off topic :emb:[/QUOTE]

I agree we should have stayed on topic. I'm sorry if I offended any anyone.

You are a tool, but I'll race you. Since you threw down the challenge, bring your punk ass down here. I only have 100 hp injectors and an edge comp box. Bring your silly ass bitch truck down here, and I'll send you home with your pussy wrapped around your ears.:flipoff2: :laughing:

and then ill send you home.............................................. ........:flipoff2:

I don't care about Dmax turbos because Dmax's are light duty engines. My truck has a medium duty engine.

If it was 298 at the rear wheels, it would be close to 390hp at the flywheel, hence why you are full of fucking shit :shaking:

2006 Dmax LBZ's make 300+ at the rear wheels with an automatic, and they "only" have 360 at the flywheel. But then again, you already knew that because your truck has a medium duty engine.

point is, drive all three, and buy the one that feels right to YOU. Each of the big three have their own groups of loyal owners. There is no "perfect" truck that can please everyone.

Ben is that you? You should be a Mod here too :cool2: . You know who I am right?

of course...good to see a fellow dp'er here

:D

Im not reading all this. I have been DDing a 06 Dodge quad cab 4x4 6speed since Dec 05. I like it just fine, I dont mind shifting, I like how you can get the Dodge with a semi spartan interior. All I need is A/C and a CD player. My buddys Chevy looks like a spaceship with all the buttons and dials.

And the truck flat out tows.

I have an 04 PS that gets 11mpg unloaded and about 6 w/ 30k behind it. That is doing 80+ up and down hills with the banks on #3. 4 doors, longbed fx4 dually with 33"s all around and 5 spd auto. I did just have to have the turbo replaced though, :shaking: so we will see how it does this time around.

point is, drive all three, and buy the one that feels right to YOU. Each of the big three have their own groups of loyal owners. There is no "perfect" truck that can please everyone.

Welcome to the board Newbie..... :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Just giving you the standard Pirate welcome to the newbies.. :)

bear with me...im new here and new to diesels too.

Here's a pretty quick 24 valve

http://www.northtexaspowerstrokes.com/users/dockboy/c-hawk.MOV

Face it, all 3 makes can be made to go fast. Just not all of them get 800 mpg like what's his names truck. :flipoff2:

I got a cunt hair less than 21 mpg, with the ac on, and the cruise control on running on the interstate on my way to maine, got those numbers twice. It was hand calculated, no overhead in my truck.

I'd also like to apologize for treating this section like off topic :emb:
damn that thing scoots:smokin: was that a 1/4 mile run??

damn that thing scoots:smokin: was that a 1/4 mile run??
Sho nuff.

I just read the test in DieselPower and they took an 06 2wd auto Duramax and on an 800 mile run averaged 19 mpg. That sounds about right for a 2wd 3/4 ton:flipoff2:

I guess whats his name is running the magnet-O-Mileage and the Tornado air horn to up his.

here's a pretty quick Dmax crew cab. BONE STOCK engine (stock turbo, everything). Just lots of fuel and nitrous :D

http://video.dieselplace.com/hottestvideos/2/1E04782A-A325-4EC1-B9E9-D8BECDE44B8F.htm

they'll run....

That is far from stock. lets see, intake, exhaust, computer ,Nitrous ,propane and that is just what I can see in the video. If that is not a built tranny, he will soon need one. :shaking:




here's a pretty quick Dmax crew cab. BONE STOCK engine (stock turbo, everything). Just lots of fuel and nitrous :D

http://video.dieselplace.com/hottestvideos/2/1E04782A-A325-4EC1-B9E9-D8BECDE44B8F.htm

they'll run....

All my #'s are hand calculated. I'm running 33" tires and so I have to add 11% because they don't go around an many times.

I suspect you're being generous with the 11% correction. Was 11% determined against mileage markers, a GPS or just going by the calculated increase in tire circumferance?

My '00 CTD 4wd 2500 6spd is only a ~6% correction via GPS from the stock 245/75R16s to my current 315/75R16s. The best I've ever gotten is 17.5 MPG. MY old '96 12V CTD 2500 5spd w/255/85R16s would & still does (it's my dad's now) 20-21 MPG.

Brian

You seem to have answered most of your questions. Test drive all 3, talk to people who own each and hopefully they will be honest about the pros/cons.

23 mpg consistently with the dmax? I don't think so.

it is true, i have gotten up to 25mpg, by hand calculation, on some trips:smokin:

bear with me...im new here and new to diesels too.

laughing: :laughing: :laughing: whats up newbie? yeah, you dont know sh#t about diesels! atleast you can admit it...i just sent you a PM on the dp about this thread and how you needed to enlighten some of these guys about the real truth:D let them have it benny! fawkin newb

it is true, i have gotten up to 25mpg, by hand calculation, on some trips:smokin:

Has your speedo been calibrated ? You can hand calculate all you want and it will be inaccurate.

i have stock tires, a custom 65hp and switchable custom 120 hp tune (based on primarily a PPE Hot tune, with some defueling between shifts to save my tranny) I noticed like a few mentioned that the tune will make the truck computer mpg incorrect, so i started hand calculating. On a 500 mile round trip, with the small tune i got over 530 miles for a tank (figuring that the remaining fuel in the tank would amount to around 30 miles), tank being 20.4ish gallons...thats 25.98 mpg. on my most recent tank, i am at 277 miles on just half tank! and i dont drive my truck light, i get smoke happy at lights. and yes my speedo has been calibrated many times...i have fully flashed my ECM over 5 times loading different tune, which i beleive also automatically recalibrates all the gauges. i will have to double check though...

That is far from stock. lets see, intake, exhaust, computer ,Nitrous ,propane and that is just what I can see in the video. If that is not a built tranny, he will soon need one. :shaking:

Stock engine internals, stock injectors, stock turbo. I consider that "stock".

Wade runs a stock intake. If you buy an intake for a turbodiesel you're stupid (yes, I bought an intake for mine back when I was stupid too, biggest waste of money ever)

yes he has an exhaust, yes he has a chip (TTS Extreme), and yes he has propane and nitrous. Tranny is a 'Purple Palace' special. (ATS)

You are splitting hairs to consider chip, exhaust, nitrous and propane "far from stock".

"far from stock" is pistons, rods, big sticks, big turbo, basically a full built engine. Id like to see a Cummins crew cab run 11's on a STOCK turbo and stock sticks.

good luck getting anywhere on a stock Cummins turbo too..................

stock Dmax turbos have been proven to over 500 rear wheel hp on fuel only, and as IBDMAX'IN proved, 835 on nitrous/propane.

I will say that Wade (IBDMAxin) now runs a bigger turbo (aurora 5000), but he ran 11's and 835 wheel hp on the stock turbo...

Then you are an idiot. Stock means stock. You must really be new to motorsports since that is a basic classification in all of them.

And are you saying he is not running an aftermarket filter assembly AKA intake? If not, that is a good way to starve an engine and burn it up.

Stock engine internals, stock injectors, stock turbo. I consider that "stock".

Wade runs a stock intake. If you buy an intake for a turbodiesel you're stupid (yes, I bought an intake for mine back when I was stupid too, biggest waste of money ever)

yes he has an exhaust, yes he has a chip (TTS Extreme), and yes he has propane and nitrous. Tranny is a 'Purple Palace' special. (ATS)

You are splitting hairs to consider chip, exhaust, nitrous and propane "far from stock".

"far from stock" is pistons, rods, big sticks, big turbo, basically a full built engine. Id like to see a Cummins crew cab run 11's on a STOCK turbo and stock sticks.

I would go new if you can get an order in for an 06. The 07 diesels get new emissions and you want to check on that changeover since it really complicates things and brings new stuff to the table.

I like stickshifts, when I get a leg ripped off I will go back to driving an automatic if I have no other choice. Someone could prove to me that an automatic was made that gets 10mpg more than my stickshift, and I would still want my clutch pedal and stickshift.

As of feb this year you could order a dura-max with a stickshift, but the engine is lower powered than the engine that comes with the allison automatic. That really irks me so I never even test drove the general motors diesels.

Ford seemed like it would do whatever but felt a bit bland. Part of this is I have spent a lot of time riding in a buddy's ford diesel.

I could not find a new dodge with a stickshift to test drive. I did find an 03 a dealer had for a trade in and the previous owner had installed a banks 6 gun package on it.

I bought the used 03 with the banks package. It is a stickshift diesel 4x4 with the quad cab, long bed, and dually rear end. It is about the longest truck dodge makes. If you go with the mega cab you can only get a shortbed and it is a similar length to my truck.

I think all 3 makes of trucks have their own personality so it depends on what you want. I really prefer the 4x4 ford and dodge and having to jump into the truck, I do not have steps or runnning boards and don't plan to get them.

I mostly use my truck as a daily driver but I have loaded the bed with some decent weight and the truck rides better and stays in gears a bit longer. Overall the truck makes for a nice daily driver in my opinion because people leave me alone as far as cutting me off or tailgating. It rides like a truck and I like that. Unloaded the tires do not squirm a bit so it handles fine for a solid axle 4x4 that weighs in around 8k lbs or so with all the junk I have on and in the truck.

I only have 6500 miles on the truck so far. And parking it does take a tiny amount of thinking since it is big and long and some spots in parking lots are tough depending on how other people park. I learned about that immediately and the nice thing with a big truck is you can hop those little concrete things they use to mark parking spots and it won't hurt the truck a bit.

I think a new truck has plenty of power stock. Just because of warranty I would not mess with a new truck.

Part of the appeal of this 03 was it already had a few thousand in mods done to it and the price was pretty decent and I sort of want to mess with the aftermarket stuff on it once I get around to needing a clutch. So new was not the best choice for me, but it would have been fine if I came across a better deal that way.

But I wanted out of my trade in since it was acting up so I got what I got and I like it.

Just an aside, I am down here in eastern tn and there is a duramax crew cab 4x4 dually that is a military optioned truck. It is an automatic and has a tool box bed on it. It has that funky green paint on it and is an 05. Stick on this thing was 90k according to what is on the truck and they are selling it for 38k or so. It already has a serious front bumper replacement on it and it is painted that funky green as well. Awesome truck. I doubt I would want to drive it daily due to the attention it will draw, but it is one neat looking truck with all sorts of stuff already done to it.

Then you are an idiot. Stock means stock. You must really be new to motorsports since that is a basic classification in all of them.

And are you saying he is not running an aftermarket filter assembly AKA intake? If not, that is a good way to starve an engine and burn it up.

well shoot too bad for TacoJedbob7, cause this idiot was the guy who wrote his ECM tune. Yeah, wrote, as in made the tune from scratch. There are no factory tunes (ie Superchips, Hypertech, PPE, Quad, Edge, Banks) on Jed's truck. We did run a PPE 120hp tune at the track, but it limped his tranny. My tune makes similar power to the PPE 120 but is more streetable and easier on the tranny due to the extra work I put into the torque limited injection quantity tables, or in other words, the tables the ECM refers to when the TCM commands torque managment during a shift, but then again, im an idiot so thats probably common knowledge.

Yes I am saying hes running a stock intake. No hes not running a "K&N" like every other fool who thinks it adds 500hp to his engine. The stock Dmax airbox flows plenty enough and filters much better than any aftermarket intake, save for the AFE Pro-Guard 7 filters.

If not, that is a good way to starve an engine and burn it up.

starve an engine and burn it up? ok. come back when you know how a diesel engine works.

I say stock as in "comparatively" stock. Whats it gonna take to make a gasser 7100 pound crew cab run an 11 second quarter mile? Totally built engine at the least?? I consider it stock because no parts were taken off or added to the engine. Every part on the engine was put there by the factory.

well shoot too bad for TacoJedbob7, cause this idiot was the guy who wrote his ECM tune. Yeah, wrote, as in made the tune from scratch. There are no factory tunes (ie Superchips, Hypertech, PPE, Quad, Edge, Banks) on Jed's truck. We did run a PPE 120hp tune at the track, but it limped his tranny. My tune makes similar power to the PPE 120 but is more streetable and easier on the tranny due to the extra work I put into the torque limited injection quantity tables, or in other words, the tables the ECM refers to when the TCM commands torque managment during a shift, but then again, im an idiot so thats probably common knowledge.

Yes I am saying hes running a stock intake. No hes not running a "K&N" like every other fool who thinks it adds 500hp to his engine. The stock Dmax airbox flows plenty enough and filters much better than any aftermarket intake, save for the AFE Pro-Guard 7 filters.



starve an engine and burn it up? ok. come back when you know how a diesel engine works.

I say stock as in "comparatively" stock. Whats it gonna take to make a gasser 7100 pound crew cab run an 11 second quarter mile? Totally built engine at the least?? I consider it stock because no parts were taken off or added to the engine. Every part on the engine was put there by the factory.
You duramax fags are funny. You do NOT know how to even hand calculate fuel mileage.
You sir, are a DAN :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

how the FUCK do you hand calculate your fuel milage?? your a fucking sped, how about you take yourself and your dodge and drive off a cliff, the world will be better off.


on another note to the guy who is contemplating a diesel: I would either got with a Ford PS 7.3L, or a chevy duramax. The dodges are crap, except for the engine. Just be careful if you get a duramax LB7, they have issues with injectors but they can make alot of power. goodluck with your search...i just went with chevy because i have a bunch of good resources for maintainance, tech help and aftermarket parts.

DURAtotheMAX knows more about D-Max's than all of us put together. If you want to see a mod'd truck I suggest you go see the 2001 F250 D-Max that Merchant automotive is building or the D-Max that SuperDiesel is building. They both have custom heads,pistons,rods,cam,have been bored out,ect. SD's has huge industrial diesel generator turbos {2 or them to be exact} Yes you may consider a chipped truck modifyed but "modifyed" is much more than that!

Who gives a crap. He does not even know the difference between stock and modified. He also must not know that a Diesel is essentially an air pump and by not having a free flowing intake while adding gobs of fuel will cause a meltdown and make your EGT go through the roof. He sounds like he is about 17 and thinks he is hot shit because he is attending Devry electronics school.

DURAtotheMAX knows more about D-Max's than all of us put together. If you want to see a mod'd truck I suggest you go see the 2001 F250 D-Max that Merchant automotive is building or the D-Max that SuperDiesel is building. They both have custom heads,pistons,rods,cam,have been bored out,ect. SD's has huge industrial diesel generator turbos {2 or them to be exact} Yes you may consider a chipped truck modifyed but "modifyed" is much more than that!

and by not having a free flowing intake while adding gobs of fuel will cause a meltdown and make your EGT go through the roof.

thats what the TURBOCHARGER is for, dumbass.

EGT will raise above the stoichiometric cumbustion point, but only so much, then it will actually cool down because there is "so much" fuel that its not even burned, and it actually will cool the cylinder temp down.

Do yourself a favor and learn about a turbodiesel. Intake dont do shit. Thats what a bigger turbo is for. I should know about high EGT because I burned up my stock turbo. 52 psi of boost and 1992* peak EGT for about a month was what it took. Turbo blew sky high and will never work again. Ready? Check this out....engine is still fine...NOTHING happend to it, yeah the silly aluminum heads didnt melt. Go run 52 pounds of boost on a Navistar VT365 or T444e (thats a 6 leaker powerstroke and 7.3 powerstroke, for you DUMMIES) and tell me what happends.

intake did not lower my EGT's 1* when I put it on. It didnt drop my ET .1 second either, so no, as I said before, an intake dont do shit.

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and tear down the top half a 6.6 Duramax, then get back to me.......and no, im not 17, I just turned 19

:laughing:

this always happens...note to self; never compare chevy, ford and dodge. god damn pissing contests:flipoff2:

Go back to school since they did not teach you anything. You do not even know the physics involved in a Diesel engine. :shaking: Typical kid who thinks that just adding crap to the engine is the way to go instead of designing a system from the intake to the exhaust so the airflow is correct. (and you still insist it is stock):eek:

Wow, you can rebuild a slushbox. no one on pirate can do that. We do not know how to rebuild engines either. :shaking: Your so called skill in modifying the computer is also a joke. What program are you using? That is what is doing the work, not you typing in parameters.

Since someone brought you here to yap about Isuzu max engines, do everyone a favor and try to understand how they work or better yet just leave you fawking noob.


thats what the TURBOCHARGER is for, dumbass.

EGT will raise above the stoichiometric cumbustion point, but only so much, then it will actually cool down because there is "so much" fuel that its not even burned, and it actually will cool the cylinder temp down.

Do yourself a favor and learn about a turbodiesel. Intake dont do shit. Thats what a bigger turbo is for. I should know about high EGT because I burned up my stock turbo. 52 psi of boost and 1992* peak EGT for about a month was what it took. Turbo blew sky high and will never work again. Ready? Check this out....engine is still fine...NOTHING happend to it, yeah the silly aluminum heads didnt melt. Go run 52 pounds of boost on a Navistar VT365 or T444e (thats a 6 leaker powerstroke and 7.3 powerstroke, for you DUMMIES) and tell me what happends.

intake did not lower my EGT's 1* when I put it on. It didnt drop my ET .1 second either, so no, as I said before, an intake dont do shit.

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and tear down the top half a 6.6 Duramax, then get back to me.......and no, im not 17, I just turned 19

how the FUCK do you hand calculate your fuel milage?? your a fucking sped, how about you take yourself and your dodge and drive off a cliff, the world will be better off.


on another note to the guy who is contemplating a diesel: I would either got with a Ford PS 7.3L, or a chevy duramax. The dodges are crap, except for the engine. Just be careful if you get a duramax LB7, they have issues with injectors but they can make alot of power. goodluck with your search...i just went with chevy because i have a bunch of good resources for maintainance, tech help and aftermarket parts.
Shut up you fucking wenzelite piece of shit. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

thats what the TURBOCHARGER is for, dumbass.

EGT will raise above the stoichiometric cumbustion point, but only so much, then it will actually cool down because there is "so much" fuel that its not even burned, and it actually will cool the cylinder temp down.

Do yourself a favor and learn about a turbodiesel. Intake dont do shit. Thats what a bigger turbo is for. I should know about high EGT because I burned up my stock turbo. 52 psi of boost and 1992* peak EGT for about a month was what it took. Turbo blew sky high and will never work again. Ready? Check this out....engine is still fine...NOTHING happend to it, yeah the silly aluminum heads didnt melt. Go run 52 pounds of boost on a Navistar VT365 or T444e (thats a 6 leaker powerstroke and 7.3 powerstroke, for you DUMMIES) and tell me what happends.

intake did not lower my EGT's 1* when I put it on. It didnt drop my ET .1 second either, so no, as I said before, an intake dont do shit.

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and tear down the top half a 6.6 Duramax, then get back to me.......and no, im not 17, I just turned 19

Hmm, "Intake don't do shit".... Guess that's why people spend so much time trying to minimize the pressure losses of the aftercooler on any of the "Big 3" diesel pick-ups - look up aftercooler vs intercooler before you open mouth insert foot.

BTW - who did the power balance & sized the turbo for your truck? You?..... Do you know how to read a compressor map or what it tells you? Spend a few months actually working at a place like Garrett Turbocharger and you might learn something.

Brian

thats what the TURBOCHARGER is for, dumbass.

EGT will raise above the stoichiometric cumbustion point, but only so much, then it will actually cool down because there is "so much" fuel that its not even burned, and it actually will cool the cylinder temp down.

Do yourself a favor and learn about a turbodiesel. Intake dont do shit. Thats what a bigger turbo is for. I should know about high EGT because I burned up my stock turbo. 52 psi of boost and 1992* peak EGT for about a month was what it took. Turbo blew sky high and will never work again. Ready? Check this out....engine is still fine...NOTHING happend to it, yeah the silly aluminum heads didnt melt. Go run 52 pounds of boost on a Navistar VT365 or T444e (thats a 6 leaker powerstroke and 7.3 powerstroke, for you DUMMIES) and tell me what happends.

intake did not lower my EGT's 1* when I put it on. It didnt drop my ET .1 second either, so no, as I said before, an intake dont do shit.

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and tear down the top half a 6.6 Duramax, then get back to me.......and no, im not 17, I just turned 19
And there we have it, a stup[id DAn who's still wet behind the ears, and has yet to get his penis wet. His credibility=0 from here on out :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

And there we have it, a stup[id DAn who's still wet behind the ears, and has yet to get his penis wet. His credibility=0 from here on out :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I found a pic of DIPSHITtotheMAX at his High School shop class:D

http://www.chickenorfish.com/movies/2times2many-NAWS-cof.jpg

Shut up you fucking wenzelite piece of shit. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

go fawk yourself, hello majo!:flipoff2:

And there we have it, a stup[id DAn who's still wet behind the ears, and has yet to get his penis wet. His credibility=0 from here on out :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


haha, :laughing: :laughing: the fact that he is probably twice as young as you and knows 100 times more than you about turbo diesels makes this comment quite amusing.


how about you try to provide some relevant comments reguarding the initial post , instead of being a jackass:flipoff2: unlike you, duratothemax has posted actual information that pertains to the topic of discussion.

I found a pic of DIPSHITtotheMAX at his High School shop class:D

http://www.chickenorfish.com/movies/2times2many-NAWS-cof.jpg


we got NOS on our forklift, thats about it:D

haha, :laughing: :laughing: the fact that he is probably twice as young as you and knows 100 times more than you about turbo diesels makes this comment quite amusing.


how about you try to provide some relevant comments reguarding the initial post , instead of being a jackass:flipoff2: unlike you, duratothemax has posted actual information that pertains to the topic of discussion.
If you think he posted accurate info, you are even more of a dumbass than I initially thought fuckstick. Drive your piece of shit sissy truck into a bridge abutment ya jackass. :laughing:

If you think he posted accurate info, you are even more of a dumbass than I initially thought fuckstick. Drive your piece of shit sissy truck into a bridge abutment ya jackass. :laughing:

hahaha, i love pirate...:D

Two things that some people just HAVE to lie about. How much money they lost at blackjack last night, and their diesel truck mileage:D

JTMcC.

Why lie. I get 13 mpg whether I drive in town, on the highway, drive 80 or drive 65. If I'm towing a flatbed it's 12, the fifth wheel 11 and with both the fifth and the flatbed, 10.

Thankfully I stopped losing money on blackjack and switched to roulette.

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and tear down the top half a 6.6 Duramax, then get back to me.......and no, im not 17, I just turned 19


I want one of those Allison 1000 diesel engines. They sound cool.

Yer a fawking idiot. Go back to our board and stroke yourself there. :rolleyes:

I've spent to much time removing IFS front ends to want to buy a 40k truck that still has IFS.
It made my choices to Ford or Dodge.

I've spent to much time removing IFS front ends to want to buy a 40k truck that still has IFS.
It made my choices to Ford or Dodge.

wouldnt you rather drive and spend 40k on a truck that handles better on the road...again this is for towing. I undertand your concern for offroading a diesel, but most of us just use them to tow and DD, correct? I bought my my truck to tow the offroad vehicle to go offroading, not offroad the tow rig.

wouldnt you rather drive and spend 40k on a truck that handles better on the road...again this is for towing. I undertand your concern for offroading a diesel, but most of us just use them to tow and DD, correct? I bought my my truck to tow the offroad vehicle to go offroading, not offroad the tow rig.
Just face facts junior, you got a inferior truck, with a garbage engine and pussified IFS. Go ask mommy if you can trade it in on a real truck when you turn 18.

Just face facts junior, you got a inferior truck, with a garbage engine and pussified IFS. Go ask mommy if you can trade it in on a real truck when you turn 18.


:laughing: :laughing:

didnt you read the edmonds diesel write-up? or the Diesel Performance (predominantly pro-ford magazine) comparason between the three??? though the chevy reporatably had some wheel hop over high speed bumps, id say that the "ford" magazine admitted to defeat:flipoff2: Im not one that goes by what other people are payed to say in a magazine, but they cant be far from the truth. I will admit I was looking at both fords and chevys, I will admit that the ford is more of a "manly"/great looking truck, but i found that the chevy engine/drivetrain is more advanced than that of the 6.0 PoS and there primitive tranny that they use among all the f-series trucks. If i could have it my way, i would have bought a ford...if it had a dmax, and an allison tranny. koodoos to ford's design team, but someone tell my why they went back to the 6.000ooono?

I've spent to much time removing IFS front ends to want to buy a 40k truck that still has IFS.
It made my choices to Ford or Dodge.

For a DD, I'd choose a GM chassis with a Cummins engine...... I've been driving Dodge trucks since '96 and the last thing they are is nice riding. My friends GM DMax's make much better DD for the 99.9% pavement miles I drive.

Brian

[QUOTE=ScottFJ40]Ooops, my fault.

Ford owns cummins ya know.



i thought toyota had rights to the cummins engine?? there was alot of talk about how that was goin to expire, toyota was debating on renewing their rights to the engine...talk about an ultimate truck...a Full size (not the tiny tundra) toyota with a cummins and toyota innovative technology!

I've spent to much time removing IFS front ends to want to buy a 40k truck that still has IFS.
It made my choices to Ford or Dodge.


This was also one of my main reasons not to go Chevy.

I have searched and read some very good threads...but none of them really hit on what I am looking for.

I am looking to buy a new diesel truck; I have always owned Fords and for work trucks I still think they cannot be beat.

In the research I have done something that has been popping up is that the Duramax is getting consistent 23 mpg compared to the Powerstroke varying from 16-21.

I am looking to buy a Daily Driver not something that will be used as a workhorse - I will only be hauling lighter loads and towing a boat on occasion.

4wd is a must as is extended cab

Things I am looking for input with:

-Manual or automatic -- Driving a standard daily does not bother me

-Best fuel economy

-New or used -- with current financing both monthly payments are the same, I am leaning toward new

-configuration -- extended cab is a must; should I go all out and buy a crew cab - long bed vs. short bed (my thoughts are = ext. cab long bed, CC short bed)


---

I will be doing driving in Southeast Kentucky - I just accepted a district executive position with Boy Scouts of America. They are going to provide me with a vehicle allotment of $450-$500 a month. The driving will be in rather mountainous areas but primarily on the highway and back roads to access small towns/communities where Scout Troops are.

Poor Billweirdusername noob. I don't think he got many of his questions answered. He did get a lot of useful diesel chest thumping dorks going at it for awhile though. :flipoff2:

I dunno... seems to be more Ford and Dodge guys here than the chevys. So pick one.:confused:

:laughing: :laughing: This is getting amusing. There is so much disagreement that who knows what's true. I know what Ben says is true and Scott seems honest even if he is more openionated than me :laughing: but beyond that :confused: . Face the fact you have to make your own choice and move on. If anyone feels that they can make a PSD or CTD faster than a D-Max with any one chip {no stacks} and a built tranny feel free to try. It will not happen. BTW Scott, Ben lives near you,race him and see what happend :laughing: :laughing:

You dont need a "real truck" you need to own what I do and it gets 25-27mpg all day motherfawking long and a 5k tow rating.

Seeing as you are only hauling a boat and dailydriving it.

2006 Jeep liberty CRD :laughing: but wait...never mind. it appears you are too gay to own a Jeep Liberty :eek:

:flipoff2:

Dont forget the NAWS, it is stock don't you know. :laughing:


:laughing: :laughing: This is getting amusing. There is so much disagreement that who knows what's true. I know what Ben says is true and Scott seems honest even if he is more openionated than me :laughing: but beyond that :confused: . Face the fact you have to make your own choice and move on. If anyone feels that they can make a PSD or CTD faster than a D-Max with any one chip {no stacks} and a built tranny feel free to try. It will not happen. BTW Scott, Ben lives near you,race him and see what happend :laughing: :laughing:

Dont forget the NAWS, it is stock don't you know. :laughing:

Do you hang out with the Ricer crowd? It's N20 to diesel owners don't you know :laughing: .

no, the diesel gangs call it NITRO!!! you would know if you were in the gang homie

You know I actually read all of the thread and truly fell dumber for having done it. If you don't know that intake is a crucial part of an air pump (essentially what a diesel is) then you really have a lot to learn. Now I'll dmit that I know very little about the duramax and it is quite possible that the factory intake is very effecient and may not need to be upgraded up to a certain point, but there is a breakover point where more air is needed. Here's an example that you might be able to wrap your simple mind around. Breathe in and out heavily. Now do the same through a straw. Tell me which one makes you pass out first.

After awakening you will come to realize the concept of airflow. On a diesel engine it doesn't matter how big your turbo is if it it going through a 2" intake you'll never be able to move as much as air as someone with a 4" intake

The duramaxes are coming on in power but they are still getting owned at a ton of the events. Their high revving nature gives them an advantage at the track but sled pulling (aka towing) they don't have as much grunt. I can see the duramaxes pulling a head at the track due to the ability to rev more, but I don't see them ever taking over sled pulling.

As for buying one of the big three go drive all of them and pick the one you like there are good reasons for buying all of them.

-ben

I have searched and ...
In the research I have done something that has been popping up is that the Duramax is getting consistent 23 mpg compared to the Powerstroke varying from 16-21.



From a buddy's email (he has a 2005 Duramax auto X-cab LWB 4x4)

>>15-16 mixed driving. 18 at 75-80mph highway. 22 at 65mph highway.


I get slightly better w/ my 7.3L PSD (same setup = Xcab LWB 4x4) probably because mine's a 6 spd manual.

Tell that to DIPSHITtotheMAX since that is how he referred to it as did the morons in the video.


Do you hang out with the Ricer crowd? It's N20 to diesel owners don't you know :laughing: .

That shows their and your stupidity since nitro is a racing fuel used in top fuel dragsters and model airplanes.

no, the diesel gangs call it NITRO!!! you would know if you were in the gang homie

[QUOTE=ScottFJ40]Ooops, my fault.

Ford owns cummins ya know.



i thought toyota had rights to the cummins engine?? there was alot of talk about how that was goin to expire, toyota was debating on renewing their rights to the engine...talk about an ultimate truck...a Full size (not the tiny tundra) toyota with a cummins and toyota innovative technology!

Nope.
http://www.cummins.com/na/pages/en/products/dodgeram/faq/answers.cfm?uuid=000C518F-094B-1E31-850880C4A8F00000

[QUOTE=TacoJedbob7]

Nope.
http://www.cummins.com/na/pages/en/products/dodgeram/faq/answers.cfm?uuid=000C518F-094B-1E31-850880C4A8F00000
Gary,
that tardstick has no clue, maybe if he wasn't such a wenzelite, he would be aware of the thing we call black text, but this guy is too stupid to figure it out :laughing: :laughing:

He did show his stupidity by actually thinking it was true :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

And toyota has rights to cummins, BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Hey kid, turn of mommies computer and go do your summer school homework. :laughing: I'm crying here.

Go back to school since they did not teach you anything. You do not even know the physics involved in a Diesel engine. :shaking: Typical kid who thinks that just adding crap to the engine is the way to go

Wow, you can rebuild a slushbox. no one on pirate can do that. We do not know how to rebuild engines either. :shaking: Your so called skill in modifying the computer is also a joke. What program are you using? That is what is doing the work, not you typing in parameters.

and just what do YOU know about modding diesel's?? Ill say it once, Ill say it 1000 times, intake is wasted money on a turbo diesel, I dont know why we are arguing about this.

the Allison isnt just "any slushbox" with a silly governer and TV cable. Its a bit more complicated than that. Go around to any tranny shop. 8 out of 10 of them wont touch an Allison. Same think with a Dmax, its not the same as rebuilding simple SBC smallblock chevy.

program I use for the Dmax is EFILive, ive tuned TBI's in straight hex, but its so much wasted time and effort. Whats the point? All the program does is provide a GUI between you and the hex. Its up to you YOURSELF do modify the hundreds of ECM tables and values. You dont just point and click and enter "I want X amount more hp". Takes time and lots of testing. Ask Jed if the first tune I made for his truck ran perfectly (it flat out sucked). You need to be careful too. Mistype one number in, say, the "injection timing after pilot (D)" table and guess what? You blow your engine, game over.

same thing with tuning the trans too. I make all changes VERY gradually. In the 3-4 clutch hand off (especailly with a built trans) if the trim isnt applied witht he right shift timing, you grenade the trans. -500miliseconds and -530miliseconds is the difference between a firm clean shift (good) and a tie up (bad, very bad).

Say I had a bone stock Duramax, You're a smart fellow, tell me EVERYTHING needed to run, say a 12 second quarter mile...in detail too, you wouldnt want to forget anything, lest you not get enough air intake and blow the engine.

I have searched and read some very good threads...but none of them really hit on what I am looking for.

I am looking to buy a new diesel truck; I have always owned Fords and for work trucks I still think they cannot be beat.

In the research I have done something that has been popping up is that the Duramax is getting consistent 23 mpg compared to the Powerstroke varying from 16-21.

I am looking to buy a Daily Driver not something that will be used as a workhorse - I will only be hauling lighter loads and towing a boat on occasion.

4wd is a must as is extended cab

Things I am looking for input with:

-Manual or automatic -- Driving a standard daily does not bother me

-Best fuel economy

-New or used -- with current financing both monthly payments are the same, I am leaning toward new

-configuration -- extended cab is a must; should I go all out and buy a crew cab - long bed vs. short bed (my thoughts are = ext. cab long bed, CC short bed)


---

I will be doing driving in Southeast Kentucky - I just accepted a district executive position with Boy Scouts of America. They are going to provide me with a vehicle allotment of $450-$500 a month. The driving will be in rather mountainous areas but primarily on the highway and back roads to access small towns/communities where Scout Troops are.

Okay, to actually try and answer some of your questions....

Having lived with Extra Cab and/or Quad Cab Dodges for the last 10 years, I would get a crew cab in a heartbeat. The back seat of my truck is gear for gear, tolerable for small children and a prison cell for an adult. My next truck will be a crew cab.

A short bed is the most worthless idea ever on pick-up IMO.

My two Dodge CTDs have been sticks - I really enjoy my 6spd when towing my 36ft Patio Hauler 5th wheel. However, in DD traffic the stick pretty much blows because it shifts so poorly. Given 10 years of 'experience', I'd buy an auto like the Allison in a heartbeat - it would suit my needs better 99% of the time.

I'm gonna call BS on anybody getting 23mpg consistently in any 3/4 ton diesel P/U. On an easy all interstate drive you might get 23mpg if you're lucky and very conservative but don't expect anything better than about 18-19 mpg combined.

New or used is up to you. Depends on the market.

I'd get a crew cab long bed if available. A short bed doesn't make enough of a difference, if any IMO, in manueverability to offset the reduced cargo capacity.

Brian

Hmm, "Intake don't do shit".... Guess that's why people spend so much time trying to minimize the pressure losses of the aftercooler on any of the "Big 3" diesel pick-ups
BTW - who did the power balance & sized the turbo for your truck? You?..... Do you know how to read a compressor map or what it tells you? Spend a few months actually working at a place like Garrett Turbocharger and you might learn something.

Brian

as far as I know, none of the big 3 use an aftercooler. At least the Duramax only uses a CAC....if it uses something else than I havent taken a Dmax apart enough.

"minimize the pressure loss of the aftercooler" I think you are babbling off useless BS to try to trip me up because that statement makes no sense at all. The CAC isnt supposed to have any pressure loss unless its broken or has a leaking boot. If anything, yeah, it may drop the pressure a bit only because it lowers the intake charge (note, CHARGE, read: AFTER the turbo, NOTHING to do with intake) temp, and when air temperature is lowerd, pressure drops...but as the pressure drops, the intake charge in turn becomes denser, allowing the engine to intake cooler, denser, more 02 rich air, even if its at less technical "boost"/atmospheric pressure than without a CAC. No, I didnt map out the turbo myself, and I dont claim to know much about mapping the A/R of the compressor and exhaust housings. As I understand it, a map on paper basically shows the useful range of a turbo compressor housing/wheel that a turbo can be used and still be efficent...ie, it shows if you flow more than X amount of air at more than X rate, the turbo will become innefficent, and harm the engines power output more than it will help it. If you spool a turbo more than it was designed for/overspeed it, you are "out of the turbo's map", or at least thats how I understand it. I should know, because I was stupid enough to operate my stock turbo wayyyy the hell out of its map for a long time until it eventually failed. Stock 2005 Dmax LLY turbo is a Garrett AVNT-37, or just a VNT-37 on the earlier 2004.5 Dmax's, the A standing for Advanced (variable nozel turbine). I think the compressor housing A/R is 1.07, I have no idea what the exhaust hosuing is. Stock they make around 24 psi on the Dmax. I was running it at 52 psi of boost. I dont even want to know what the drive pressure or charge temp was at that much boost, it must have been upwards of 100 psi. ~32psi is right on the edge of the map for thsoe turbos. Obviously I dont question why it failed running 52psi for a month. People are like "ohh shit the truck must have hauled ass!!!" no, performance kinda sucked because it was way out of its map and the nuts drive pressure was killing the engine's power output. The turbo I have now I think has too big an exhaust housing. That, and I have fuel delivery problems. Im workign on narrowing it down. As far as blocking off the rail press releif valve etc... I can hardly maintain 19,100psi down the track. This is not letting thr new turbo work to its potential because there isnt enough fuel to provide a dense enough, big enough exhaust charge to "back up" the exhaust and build enough drive pressure to properly spool the turbo. EGT's are much much lower now, Im not even hitting 1525* at the quarter mile mark. With the VVT I would be kissing 2000* because of the drive pressure/inefficency of the VVT. So, my EGT's are low with the new turbo, but its not building the boost I want witht he current fuel I have. The exhaust hosuing I think is slightly too big as I said before, hence the low EGT's, yet not as much boost as I want. But who knows, I just teach myself this stuff as I go along, and as I need the info. Its a slow work in progress because I have to do all the work/testing myself. I dont have endless $$$$ to just hand to a diesel performnce shop and say "here, make it fast"

and just what do YOU know about modding diesel's?? Ill say it once, Ill say it 1000 times, intake is wasted money on a turbo diesel, I dont know why we are arguing about this.

the Allison isnt just "any slushbox" with a silly governer and TV cable. Its a bit more complicated than that. Go around to any tranny shop. 8 out of 10 of them wont touch an Allison. Same think with a Dmax, its not the same as rebuilding simple SBC smallblock chevy.

program I use for the Dmax is EFILive, ive tuned TBI's in straight hex, but its so much wasted time and effort. Whats the point? All the program does is provide a GUI between you and the hex. Its up to you YOURSELF do modify the hundreds of ECM tables and values. You dont just point and click and enter "I want X amount more hp". Takes time and lots of testing. Ask Jed if the first tune I made for his truck ran perfectly (it flat out sucked). You need to be careful too. Mistype one number in, say, the "injection timing after pilot (D)" table and guess what? You blow your engine, game over.

same thing with tuning the trans too. I make all changes VERY gradually. In the 3-4 clutch hand off (especailly with a built trans) if the trim isnt applied witht he right shift timing, you grenade the trans. -500miliseconds and -530miliseconds is the difference between a firm clean shift (good) and a tie up (bad, very bad).

Say I had a bone stock Duramax, You're a smart fellow, tell me EVERYTHING needed to run, say a 12 second quarter mile...in detail too, you wouldnt want to forget anything, lest you not get enough air intake and blow the engine.

With your vast tuning knowledge why aren't you working as a consultant for a large company making bank? What type of testing are you doing to validate your table tweaking? Quick ET's are great but they don't make for a reliable tow rig/DD and are only a small part of a very large equation.

For somebody that claims to know so much about diesels I find very difficult to believe you knowingly ran at ~1900F EGTs and 52psi boost for any amount of time.

Brian

I want one of those Allison 1000 diesel engines. They sound cool.

Yer a fawking idiot. Go back to our board and stroke yourself there. :rolleyes:


huh? Allison diesel engine what are you talking about?

I like the second comment too. Thats real mature and a good response to my arguement.

FWIW, I have never gotten more than 20mpg on my truck, hand calculated (thats total fuel gallons divided by distance traveled on one tank, I see some people cant calulate that correctly)

Long trip, just highway, I see about 18, maybe a bit less, thats with 285's, 7200 pounds. Around town I see 15-16mpg.

Just face facts junior, you got a inferior truck, with a garbage engine and pussified IFS. Go ask mommy if you can trade it in on a real truck when you turn 18.

You win. Our trucks suck. Our engines are garbage. There, I said it, go throw a party that you emerged victorious, and feel good about yourself that show "showed them chebby boys real good".

You win. Our trucks suck. Our engines are garbage. There, I said it, go throw a party that you emerged victorious, and feel good about yourself that show "showed them chebby boys real good".
Bout time you woke up. Now go back to fagsrus or whatever website you hail from, your diaper is way to full to hang here. :laughing:

Alot more than you since you don't even know the physics behind a Diesel. You seem to think you are hot shit because you can rebuild the immitation Allison tranny that chevy uses and you can pull the heads on a IsuzuMax:laughing:

As for Building Diesels ( not just slapping nos, propane and a computer program in it) I have been around a few real engines. You ever gone through a Big cam 4 ? Do you even know what that is? go to most engine shops and they will not even touch it:flipoff2: Oh, I forgot, You just mod by adding crap to a "stock engine"

As for your intake is useless argument, you need to get a physics lesson jr if you do not even know this basic principal.:eek:

and just what do YOU know about modding diesel's?? Ill say it once, Ill say it 1000 times, intake is wasted money on a turbo diesel, I dont know why we are arguing about this.

the Allison isnt just "any slushbox" with a silly governer and TV cable. Its a bit more complicated than that. Go around to any tranny shop. 8 out of 10 of them wont touch an Allison. Same think with a Dmax, its not the same as rebuilding simple SBC smallblock chevy.

program I use for the Dmax is EFILive, ive tuned TBI's in straight hex, but its so much wasted time and effort. Whats the point? All the program does is provide a GUI between you and the hex. Its up to you YOURSELF do modify the hundreds of ECM tables and values. You dont just point and click and enter "I want X amount more hp". Takes time and lots of testing. Ask Jed if the first tune I made for his truck ran perfectly (it flat out sucked). You need to be careful too. Mistype one number in, say, the "injection timing after pilot (D)" table and guess what? You blow your engine, game over.

same thing with tuning the trans too. I make all changes VERY gradually. In the 3-4 clutch hand off (especailly with a built trans) if the trim isnt applied witht he right shift timing, you grenade the trans. -500miliseconds and -530miliseconds is the difference between a firm clean shift (good) and a tie up (bad, very bad).

Say I had a bone stock Duramax, You're a smart fellow, tell me EVERYTHING needed to run, say a 12 second quarter mile...in detail too, you wouldnt want to forget anything, lest you not get enough air intake and blow the engine.

Tell that to DIPSHITtotheMAX since that is how he referred to it as did the morons in the video.

Im gonna take offense to that, Wade has an impressive truck, nitrous or not.

11.96 in a 7200 pound crew cab diesel truck?? What does yours run? Thats 2006 Vette Z06 territory.

Alot more than you since you don't even know the physics behind a Diesel. You seem to think you are hot shit because you can rebuild the immitation Allison tranny that chevy uses and you can pull the heads on a IsuzuMax:laughing:

As for Building Diesels ( not just slapping nos, propane and a computer program in it) I have been around a few real engines. You ever gone through a Big cam 4 ? Do you even know what that is? go to most engine shops and they will not even touch it:flipoff2: Oh, I forgot, You just mod by adding crap to a "stock engine"

Immitation Allison tranny. Define that. Is it an immitation of a built brick shit house like the Dodge 48RE?? Have you ever rebuilt one or even touched a Duramax, no, so shut up. You also passively admitted to never building/working on/modding diesels, so there, shut up again. No, I dont know what the fuck a big cam 4 is, all I know is diesels and thats all I care to know about because they are the only engines that concern me. Are we talking about big cam 4's? No we're talking about diesels. Stay on topic dumbass.

and Ill ask you again, tell me how to build up a Duramax right. If you ever so much as think of the word "Banks" ill laugh my ass off.

Im gonna take offense to that, Wade has an impressive truck, nitrous or not.

11.96 in a 7200 pound crew cab diesel truck?? What does yours run? Thats 2006 Vette Z06 territory.

I don't have a truck to play Ricer, I have a truck to tow and to get into disaster areas for work.

Lets see how that truck compares to a ZO6 with a chip, NOS and a few other goodies.

http://www.smileys.ws/smls/food/00000007.gif

Check and mate numb nutz,

a Big cam 4 is a diesel and a very common one used in commercial applications.My fleet had the 400 version. It is made by a little known company called Cummins. Try Google, it is your friend.

Go back to wherever you crawled out of Troll boy.



You also passively admitted to never building/working on/modding diesels, so there, shut up again. No, I dont know what the fuck a big cam 4 is, all I know is diesels and thats all I care to know about because they are the only engines that concern me. Are we talking about big cam 4's? No we're talking about diesels. Stay on topic dumbass.

and Ill ask you again, tell me how to build up a Duramax right. If you ever so much as think of the word "Banks" ill laugh my ass off.

CJHeap wins, little Dmaxgirl loses. Lock the thread! :laughing:

With your vast tuning knowledge why aren't you working as a consultant for a large company making bank? What type of testing are you doing to validate your table tweaking? Quick ET's are great but they don't make for a reliable tow rig/DD and are only a small part of a very large equation.

For somebody that claims to know so much about diesels I find very difficult to believe you knowingly ran at ~1900F EGTs and 52psi boost for any amount of time.

Brian

my knowledge isnt "vast" by any means...I work with stuff that ive taught myself by real world trial and error. I dont know near enough to work for any "big" tuning company. I just try stuff myself and if it works, great, good for me, if it doesnt work, well then I try something else. I have no former education or background in ANY of this stuff. Testing? haha the most solid testing I can confirm is seat of the pants.:( If it feels fast, Im happy, thats all I care about. On Jeds truck we did it all by SOTP and datalogging with a laptop to check timing and inj pulse width curves, to make sure timing wasnt coming on too soon (bad). But for the most part, tuning a diesel is simple, I dont claim to be some superhero in that department. All it is is fuel and timing. Its pretty fogiving too unlike gasser tuning....if you pay attention to the engine and know what to listen for, it will tell you when you have gone too far....that is unless you make a bonehead move in teh tuning and type in a value that is way out of wack (ie, you accidentally type 200* of timing for some table). As far as towing, thats also by SOTP, and EGT's. If it feels strong and EGT's arent out of control pulling grades, thats fine with me. I completely agree with you that quick ET's dont make for a reliable DD/tow rig, good point. :) Back when I used factory tuning, a quick truck at the track meant a lot of sacrifces around town. PPE Hot Xcellerator, big power, ran fast at the track, but the damn thing wasnt streetable for beans. Way too touchy, you cant even pull away from a stop smoothly without surging and bucking due to the really sensitive throttle. And it smoked a LOT. Forget towing with it, EGT's would be nuts. A PPE/Van Aaken stack could make an LLY Dmax run 12's, but it did run hot and this took its toll on the turbo....the LB7 turbos have proven to be much more robust under modding and racing.

EGT's I was running, Yes......I was a dumbass for doing that, ill be the first person to admit it.:D EGT's were near 2000* passing thru the 1/4 mile, but I would never "sustain" that on the street. Getting onto the highway, I could do 1600*, but I was concious of this and would back out till EGT's stabilized. 52psi of boost...........I didnt have a "real" boost guage back then, I simply read it off the data bus from the MAP sensor. (take MAP sensor reading, subtract 14 or whatever the current atmospheric pressure was) I was running a custom tune that someone helped me with (im running the same guys tunes now, he doesnt work for some big company and has no previous knowlege, he just uses EFILive and has an amazing knack for it, My own tunes I could never get to run faster than high 13's at the track simply because they werent good enough, so I sought him out for help) stacked with an Edge Juice module. I had an early version of the Edge (v1.0) that capped/intercepted/modded the signal that the ECM could see from the MAP sensor. So basically I was running 52psi even tho according to the MAP sensor I was only running 28-30. Didnt have the money at the time for a real boost gauge. Finalyl saved up enough $$ bought one, and crapped my pants when I saw how much boost I was running. Maybe a week or so later I fired the truck up and the turbo started to whine and howl like wind whistling thru a cave in a cheesy scary movie.:shaking: That was that....turbo was fried...close to 1/8" of radial shaft play and 1/16" or so of axial shaft play.:(

Im glad you responded, Brian, even tho we disagreed a bit, its nice to at least disagree with someone who has sense and is making valid arguments (I sincerely mean that), not just soemone who is being stupid and saying "chevy's are shitty, go back to your fag diesel forum"

ben

Check and mate numb nutz,

a Big cam 4 is a diesel and a very common one used in commercial applications.My fleet had the 400 version. It is made by a little known company called Cummins. Try Google, it is your friend.

Go back to wherever you crawled out of Troll boy.


haha oh man...I guess I set myself up for that one...Ill admit defeat...you win this round:D

I only mainly know Dmax's, maybe a little about the T444e's and VT365's, and less about the ISB's other than the basics....

blahblahblahbullshitbullshitbullshit
Im glad you responded, Brian, even tho we disagreed a bit, its nice to at least disagree with someone who has sense and is making valid arguments (I sincerely mean that), not just soemone who is being stupid and saying "chevy's are shitty, go back to your fag diesel forum"

ben
:crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby:

Hey Ben, SuperDiesel has a new injector pump to fix that rail pressure problem. It'll run 29,000psi to compensate for bigger sticks which he is also going to have soon. He also told me that the LBZ pump at least on LB7's will make more pressure.

IIRC a Big Cam 4 is a 8.3 CTD used in trucks FYI.

The intake means very little on a D-Max and isn't worth your $$$$ as stated. I don't know why people argue with research :shaking: . An A5000 or Twins make a hell of a lot of air. The intake doesn't help much if any. Been there done that,so has Ben.

yep I bought a PPE race valve from IdahoRob (oh shit PERFECT EXAMPLE, he runs twin turbos, and runs 12.3 on fuel only in a crew cab, 7200 pounds.....check this out.....you ready........here it comes........uh oh.......STOCK EXHAUST!!!!!!!!!! :eek: ) but if that deosnt fix my rail pressure problems im going to look into swapping out CP3's for an LBZ pump.

Ben,
I suspect you might have addressed the issue already but if you haven't then you really need to look at a properly matched turbocharger. Running the stock turbo at 52 psi is well outside it's optimum parameters Stock (and I mean literally stock) boost is limited to ~20-25psi on the DMax, correct?

Brian

huh? Allison diesel engine what are you talking about?



Damn, you really are a "TARD". Haole was responding to this quote from YOU ........................

as for me not knowing about diesel's, teach yourself how to rebuild an Allison 1000 series and


Sure looks like you're talking about rebuilding an *allison diesel*. :laughing: :laughing: :flipoff2:

Ben,
I suspect you might have addressed the issue already but if you haven't then you really need to look at a properly matched turbocharger. Running the stock turbo at 52 psi is well outside it's optimum parameters Stock (and I mean literally stock) boost is limited to ~20-25psi on the DMax, correct?

Brian

30-32psi max safe for a D-Max. I regularly hit 30psi on mine and haven't had any problems.

30-32psi max safe for a D-Max. I regularly hit 30psi on mine and haven't had any problems.

Which is still a long way from 52 psi........

Brian

wow, you guys know how to warp comments into what you want them to say...for the ignorant, maybe you should STFU, or learn something from us (the "light duty" guys) we are not saying that our trucks are the best, we are just trying to show you that there is another "viable" option from the praised cummins, and or PSD. I will admit that the other options are great trucks (but, not a fan of that thing wrapped around the amazing cummins:shaking: ). Like many have mentioned, all it takes is to test drive each of the options. But, as you can tell, all of these trucks have been proven to exceed the expectations of most the owners...and that is where there will be no real good answer to which is better...no man will admit that their truck is inferior to another.


-scottydoesntknow, ben owns his truck, he has been saving for most of his adolescent life, working multiple jobs to get it.

good chat, see you out there:flipoff2:

Ben,
I suspect you might have addressed the issue already but if you haven't then you really need to look at a properly matched turbocharger. Running the stock turbo at 52 psi is well outside it's optimum parameters Stock (and I mean literally stock) boost is limited to ~20-25psi on the DMax, correct?

Brian


ohhh yes 52psi is way out of the stock turbo's design range. Yeah stock psi is around 24 or so. On the Dmax's the VVT's seem to just get innefficent and suck above 32psi, and on the LB7's that had an IHI wastegated turbo, they will shotgun above 32. So the IHI's work great then all of a sudden go out with a bang, while the VVT's just start to howl at you and not build boost as fast. The turbo I put on there when my stock one blew is a Borg-warner Schwitzer S300 derrivative, I honestly have no idea what the A/R is of either housing, it works well on the LB7's and those guys are seeing lots of success with it (first gen dmax) because their injectors can deliver more fuel than the LLY's and spool the turbo much higher so its in its effective range (45psi).....and on top of that the LLY's have other "issues" too that prevent them from being as easy to hotrod. I was the first guy to ever install one on an LLY (another guy did a custom setup on his LLY at the exact same time), so I was going into uncharted territory...I had to do custom stuff and extra work to make it fit (cause it was designed as an LB7 aftermarket turbo), which wasnt fun either... Even if I knew the A/R I wouldnt know what to do with it, or if its right for my engine because im not an engineer and dont know ANY of the complicated math/physics behind the more complex sides of turbos, or how to map one correctly. With my truck, I just cant get enough fuel to spool it more than 36psi. I think I just need to figure out my fuel issues and as I get more fuel, the turbo's efficency will fall into place and it will work much better.

If I had more money I would have liked to have gone for the big boy....the ATS Aurora 5000. I have no idea what kind of turbo it is, but the friggin thing is a monstor. 60psi easilly, no wastegate.....but because theres no wastegate you need headstuds as well, which is even more $$$:(

Ben

I got a variable pitch turbo how does this figure into this vagina fest you all have going here? :laughing:

oh and I weigh 3K less than you fat fuckers :flipoff2: I own ju at the track :D

I got a variable pitch turbo how does this figure into this vagina fest you all have going here? :laughing:

oh and I weigh 3K less than you fat fuckers :flipoff2: I own ju at the track :D


what kind/model is it? How is it controlled? What kinda engine/car is it in? Whats it run at the track? STP-corrected dyno numbers?

as far as I know, none of the big 3 use an aftercooler. At least the Duramax only uses a CAC....if it uses something else than I havent taken a Dmax apart enough.

"minimize the pressure loss of the aftercooler" I think you are babbling off useless BS to try to trip me up because that statement makes no sense at all. The CAC isnt supposed to have any pressure loss unless its broken or has a leaking boot. If anything, yeah, it may drop the pressure a bit only because it lowers the intake charge (note, CHARGE, read: AFTER the turbo, NOTHING to do with intake) temp, and when air temperature is lowerd, pressure drops...but as the pressure drops, the intake charge in turn becomes denser, allowing the engine to intake cooler, denser, more 02 rich air, even if its at less technical "boost"/atmospheric pressure than without a CAC. No, I didnt map out the turbo myself, and I dont claim to know much about mapping the A/R of the compressor and exhaust housings. As I understand it, a map on paper basically shows the useful range of a turbo compressor housing/wheel that a turbo can be used and still be efficent...ie, it shows if you flow more than X amount of air at more than X rate, the turbo will become innefficent, and harm the engines power output more than it will help it. If you spool a turbo more than it was designed for/overspeed it, you are "out of the turbo's map", or at least thats how I understand it. I should know, because I was stupid enough to operate my stock turbo wayyyy the hell out of its map for a long time until it eventually failed. Stock 2005 Dmax LLY turbo is a Garrett AVNT-37, or just a VNT-37 on the earlier 2004.5 Dmax's, the A standing for Advanced (variable nozel turbine). I think the compressor housing A/R is 1.07, I have no idea what the exhaust hosuing is. Stock they make around 24 psi on the Dmax. I was running it at 52 psi of boost. I dont even want to know what the drive pressure or charge temp was at that much boost, it must have been upwards of 100 psi. ~32psi is right on the edge of the map for thsoe turbos. Obviously I dont question why it failed running 52psi for a month. People are like "ohh shit the truck must have hauled ass!!!" no, performance kinda sucked because it was way out of its map and the nuts drive pressure was killing the engine's power output. The turbo I have now I think has too big an exhaust housing. That, and I have fuel delivery problems. Im workign on narrowing it down. As far as blocking off the rail press releif valve etc... I can hardly maintain 19,100psi down the track. This is not letting thr new turbo work to its potential because there isnt enough fuel to provide a dense enough, big enough exhaust charge to "back up" the exhaust and build enough drive pressure to properly spool the turbo. EGT's are much much lower now, Im not even hitting 1525* at the quarter mile mark. With the VVT I would be kissing 2000* because of the drive pressure/inefficency of the VVT. So, my EGT's are low with the new turbo, but its not building the boost I want witht he current fuel I have. The exhaust hosuing I think is slightly too big as I said before, hence the low EGT's, yet not as much boost as I want. But who knows, I just teach myself this stuff as I go along, and as I need the info. Its a slow work in progress because I have to do all the work/testing myself. I dont have endless $$$$ to just hand to a diesel performnce shop and say "here, make it fast"

I missed this post initially. Unfortunately, your reply above has exposed your lack of knowledge in this area.

I'm not spouting BS technical gibberish to trip you up. You need to study some BASIC thermodynamics and fluid mechanics - as in HP Books type stuff you can get at Barnes & Noble or Borders. Check out the turbocharger book by Hugh McInnes(sp?) to help you understand some of the basic principles.

I'm familiar with Garrett's VNT & AVNT turbo's - I co-op'd there in the aero engineering group when the Powerstroke first came out, worked for a sister division for 5 years - was offered a job as an Application Engineer at Garrett, and have several friends that still work there.

There is a lot more to making an engine perform better in a given application than just changing values in a table.

Brian

what kind/model is it? How is it controlled? What kinda engine/car is it in? Whats it run at the track? STP-corrected dyno numbers?

its a Jeep Liberty DIESEL , bitch :laughing: I told you fuckers that like 2 pages ago.
Why the fuck this guy wants a huge ass truck if he is never going to use it is beyond me.

its a Garrett turbo, it makes "psssssstttt" sound when I let of the gas. :D

Factory specs: 170hp 300ftlbs at max 26.5 psi in a 4,000lb vehicle :evil:
No mods till the drive train warranty is done, when it is done I will put you land yachts to shame :laughing:

I got a variable pitch turbo how does this figure into this vagina fest you all have going here? :laughing:

oh and I weigh 3K less than you fat fuckers :flipoff2: I own ju at the track :D


STFU you Amigo driving pansy:flipoff2:

Brian

i didnt know the liberty TD was for sale yet in the US. that would be a great option for the guy (......?mac.net) how do you like it? I wish that they would come out with a TD WJ (or whatever its called now, 2005 and up) The gas liberty has about 220 hp, correct? how does it compare with the diesels power? im quite impressed with the 300 ftlbs!

STFU you Amigo driving pansy:flipoff2:

Brian
Yes but BOTH of my vehicles are less gay than the posting in this thread :flipoff2:


i didnt know the liberty TD was for sale yet in the US. that would be a great option for the guy (......?mac.net) how do you like it? I wish that they would come out with a TD WJ (or whatever its called now, 2005 and up) The gas liberty has about 220 hp, correct? how does it compare with the diesels power? im quite impressed with the 300 ftlbs!
yup Liberty CRD what is on the lot is the last you will get as they are not Califonazi legal. so they will not be making it in 07 (or the liberty at all as far as I can tell)
They will offer a diesel Commander I believe
I make a V-6 liberty my bitch :laughing: once that turbo spools it just launches HARD. and I get better MPG :evil:
I love this little ride and it should tow a buggy/jeep on a short trailer/dolly with ease. the tow rating of 5k is low because of the short wheelbase.

only problem is some tranny stutter that a LOT of other Chrysler shit has a recall for.

I missed this post initially. Unfortunately, your reply above has exposed your lack of knowledge in this area.

I'm not spouting BS technical gibberish to trip you up. You need to study some BASIC thermodynamics and fluid mechanics - as in HP Books type stuff you can get at Barnes & Noble or Borders. Check out the turbocharger book by Hugh McInnes(sp?) to help you understand some of the basic principles.

I'm familiar with Garrett's VNT & AVNT turbo's - I co-op'd there in the aero engineering group when the Powerstroke first came out, worked for a sister division for 5 years - was offered a job as an Application Engineer at Garrett, and have several friends that still work there.

There is a lot more to making an engine perform better in a given application than just changing values in a table.

Brian

true, as far as the nuts and bolts and physics and the down and dirty math and stuff like that im clueless, if im working on an actual project that requires knowlegde in an area, I read about it and learn what I can, im not in school for any of this stuff, if I was, I would do terribly, because id find it hard to apply these basic fundimentals to a real world application thats "fun". wow that was along sentence. I actually am pretty sure I have that very same turbo book you are talking about....its around somewhere...the author sounds very familliar....I read many parts of it, but glazed over the math/basic physics/fluids stuff because it just boggled my mind and it was hard to read and understand...:shaking:

From what I understand, the 6.0 stroker turbo is very similar in design to the LLY Dmax turbo, except the Stroker turbo is not water cooled (possibly why 6.0s eat turbos like no other) and the early stroker turbos had less (??) vanes that were shaped differently, and from what I understand, thats why early 6.0's SHREIKED like an F-16 sitting on the ramp.

Once I get more fuel, then I can add more timing...from what ive found playing around with and datalogging stuff, more timing early on helps light the turbo. I dont know why or the physics behind it, but thats what ive found. Of course you cant have timing without fuel there or else you get an engine that rattles and gets mad at you.....or breaks.:( I think its the dense initial "poof" of exhaust gas/combustion that builds drive pressure before it can escape out the back of the turbo, and therefore this is what lights teh turbo and gets it spooling quick and early. If you bring the power/timing/fuel on slowly, theres not a punchy enough initial charge to light the turbo well......does that sound correct?? Thats just kinda how I understand it.......

so once I have more fuel I think the turbo will work a lotbetter...LB7 guys have good success with it. One guy even dropped near half a second off his ET IIRC compared to the stock IHI. Playing with tuning on my truck proved that with the right timing it can be made to spool fast...I just dont have the fuel there on the top end.

ben

i have a delivery in the hazard, ky area. there are some hills and hollers over there. i would be more concerned with my brakes than an engine. and did i read something about a cummins big cam 400? i drove one of them in a 1979 autocar with a 13 speed. it sucked bad! personally i would rather have a 12.7L 60 series (which sux too) than a big cam 400. anyway, buy whatever you like and want. you are the fella thats gotta make the payment. i have a reg cab wrong bed 02 duramax with a 6 speed manual. i get around 18-19 mpg. its mostly stock, although that depends one whos defination of "stock" you use! lol. good luck with your decision on which to buy!

i didnt know the liberty TD was for sale yet in the US. that would be a great option for the guy (......?mac.net) how do you like it? I wish that they would come out with a TD WJ (or whatever its called now, 2005 and up) The gas liberty has about 220 hp, correct? how does it compare with the diesels power? im quite impressed with the 300 ftlbs! I drove a friends diesel liberty ( he's already got it chipped )
it was quite impressive . it did feel very nose heavy under moderate braking, he's claiming 22-25 mpg'

Thanks guys for all the replies. I have not read all of them yet...but I will. Several of the posts seem tohave good information and just wanted to thank you guys for all the replies. Don't think because I have not replied to this thread I have not been following it.

Bill

as far as I know, none of the big 3 use an aftercooler. At least the Duramax only uses a CAC....if it uses something else than I havent taken a Dmax apart enough.

"minimize the pressure loss of the aftercooler" I think you are babbling off useless BS to try to trip me up because that statement makes no sense at all. The CAC isnt supposed to have any pressure loss unless its broken or has a leaking boot. If anything, yeah, it may drop the pressure a bit only because it lowers the intake charge (note, CHARGE, read: AFTER the turbo, NOTHING to do with intake) temp, and when air temperature is lowerd, pressure drops...but as the pressure drops, the intake charge in turn becomes denser, allowing the engine to intake cooler, denser, more 02 rich air, even if its at less technical "boost"/atmospheric pressure than without a CAC. No, I didnt map out the turbo myself, and I dont claim to know much about mapping the A/R of the compressor and exhaust housings. As I understand it, a map on paper basically shows the useful range of a turbo compressor housing/wheel that a turbo can be used and still be efficent...ie, it shows if you flow more than X amount of air at more than X rate, the turbo will become innefficent, and harm the engines power output more than it will help it. If you spool a turbo more than it was designed for/overspeed it, you are "out of the turbo's map", or at least thats how I understand it. I should know, because I was stupid enough to operate my stock turbo wayyyy the hell out of its map for a long time until it eventually failed. Stock 2005 Dmax LLY turbo is a Garrett AVNT-37, or just a VNT-37 on the earlier 2004.5 Dmax's, the A standing for Advanced (variable nozel turbine). I think the compressor housing A/R is 1.07, I have no idea what the exhaust hosuing is. Stock they make around 24 psi on the Dmax. I was running it at 52 psi of boost. I dont even want to know what the drive pressure or charge temp was at that much boost, it must have been upwards of 100 psi. ~32psi is right on the edge of the map for thsoe turbos. Obviously I dont question why it failed running 52psi for a month. People are like "ohh shit the truck must have hauled ass!!!" no, performance kinda sucked because it was way out of its map and the nuts drive pressure was killing the engine's power output. The turbo I have now I think has too big an exhaust housing. That, and I have fuel delivery problems. Im workign on narrowing it down. As far as blocking off the rail press releif valve etc... I can hardly maintain 19,100psi down the track. This is not letting thr new turbo work to its potential because there isnt enough fuel to provide a dense enough, big enough exhaust charge to "back up" the exhaust and build enough drive pressure to properly spool the turbo. EGT's are much much lower now, Im not even hitting 1525* at the quarter mile mark. With the VVT I would be kissing 2000* because of the drive pressure/inefficency of the VVT. So, my EGT's are low with the new turbo, but its not building the boost I want witht he current fuel I have. The exhaust hosuing I think is slightly too big as I said before, hence the low EGT's, yet not as much boost as I want. But who knows, I just teach myself this stuff as I go along, and as I need the info. Its a slow work in progress because I have to do all the work/testing myself. I dont have endless $$$$ to just hand to a diesel performnce shop and say "here, make it fast"


Hey, pussy to the max,

Try using the <ENTER> key. There is the thing called a paragraph, use it.
:rolleyes:

Damn, you really are a "TARD". Haole was responding to this quote from YOU ........................




Sure looks like you're talking about rebuilding an *allison diesel*. :laughing: :laughing: :flipoff2:

He's such a dumbass with the engrish, I doubt he knows shit about diesels... :laughing:

R

http://inlinediesel.com/deathmatch/

:laughing:

I have to say I love my 2005 CTD. It was what I wanted, when I wanted it. I HATE Ford, but I'm a bit biased because I grew up around a Ford family - who still get new ones (cars AND trucks) about every 2 years and STILL have nothing but problems with them ALL. :confused:

And, I didn't want IFS. Just for personal reasons. So.. What's left? DODGE! :D

But seriously, like other folk have said, drive all three and get what YOU want!

He's such a dumbass with the engrish, I doubt he knows shit about diesels... :laughing:

You aren't too swift with "english" yourself :laughing:

wouldnt you rather drive and spend 40k on a truck that handles better on the road...again this is for towing. I undertand your concern for offroading a diesel, but most of us just use them to tow and DD, correct? I bought my my truck to tow the offroad vehicle to go offroading, not offroad the tow rig.
not a chance.
IFS in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck wears out very rapid, eating steering, tires, and bushings.
I plan on keep my truck for 200k+

Thanks guys for all the replies. I have not read all of them yet...but I will. Several of the posts seem tohave good information and just wanted to thank you guys for all the replies. Don't think because I have not replied to this thread I have not been following it.

Bill


I wouldn't waste the time. Just go pick out a decent priced 2500 version of one of the three in your tranny preference and call it a day. You don't sound like you're gonna push it hard or modify it so all this E-weenie waggin' means nothing to your severly hi-jacked thread.

I declare Duralax, the best little pickup ever made. There, it's settled. Now go away Duratards!

IFS is for cars :flipoff2:

not a chance.
IFS in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck wears out very rapid, eating steering, tires, and bushings.
I plan on keep my truck for 200k+

If a solid axle is so wonderful why are the ball joints bad on my '00 Dodge at ~85K miles? I've also had to replace the track bar and the pitman arm tie rod end on the drag link.

It's all a trade off.......

Brian

If a solid axle is so wonderful why are the ball joints bad on my '00 Dodge at ~85K miles? I've also had to replace the track bar and the pitman arm tie rod end on the drag link.

It's all a trade off.......

Brian


Ever hear of a grease gun?

If a solid axle is so wonderful why are the ball joints bad on my '00 Dodge at ~85K miles? I've also had to replace the track bar and the pitman arm tie rod end on the drag link.

It's all a trade off.......

Brian
minus the trac bar, those die on IFS trucks as well, along with the axles, idler arm and center link.

I'm not real fond of IFS either buy I have never touched it. I have 120k Farm and Ranch miles on my D-Max with no problems at all with it. I did replace the idler arm and pitman arm after wheeling it in the rocks :shaking: . My 97' had 150k on it when I traded it and I jumped it numerous times and ran it like hell. It was also a Farm and Ranch truck. My uncle has a 94' CTD with about 120k and the D60 is completely crapped out. So bad that he has to replace it. **** CAD and balljoints. Like it has been said they all have weakness's but pick around the weakness you can live with and buy. I can't live with the body falling apart,the tranny crapping out at 100k,or bad turbo's, so I drive a Chevy.

Ever hear of a grease gun?

Yes, I have heard of a grease gun - but thank you for the advice:flipoff2:

Ever heard of "lubed for life"? Or unit bearings?

The ball joints don't have zerks..... And Dodge's are notorious for eating the ball joints.

Brian

It must be just me. Seems that most chevy guys think thier pos GM brands are the best in the world.

And these duracrap owners must hold thier cawks with tweezers to take a piss. who the fawk cares if it rides nicer. It's a fawkin truck, a truck should not ride like a honda.

I can't live with the body falling apart,the tranny crapping out at 100k,or bad turbo's, so I drive a Chevy.

Weird, that's pretty much what my list was... back when I swore off ever buying another GM product. Well... truthfully, my list was much longer. I digress.

Let's all hear it for the fantabulous ability of GM alternators to die the day after your ever useful GM Protection plan runs out. Awesome!!!

It must be just me. Seems that most chevy guys think thier pos GM brands are the best in the world.

And these duracrap owners must hold thier cawks with tweezers to take a piss. who the fawk cares if it rides nicer. It's a fawkin truck, a truck should not ride like a honda.

great don... now this thread will go another 7 pages from your post :flipoff2:

IFS is for cars :flipoff2:
and jeeps too!!! :flipoff2:

I'm not real fond of IFS either buy I have never touched it. I have 120k Farm and Ranch miles on my D-Max with no problems at all with it. I did replace the idler arm and pitman arm after wheeling it in the rocks :shaking: . My 97' had 150k on it when I traded it and I jumped it numerous times and ran it like hell. It was also a Farm and Ranch truck. My uncle has a 94' CTD with about 120k and the D60 is completely crapped out. So bad that he has to replace it. **** CAD and balljoints. Like it has been said they all have weakness's but pick around the weakness you can live with and buy. I can't live with the body falling apart,the tranny crapping out at 100k,or bad turbo's, so I drive a Chevy.Posts like this from guys like you, are why guys like me give you crap.
If you need to bash your competition to make yourself look better, the jokes on you. :laughing:

its a vicious cycle....:laughing:

Give it up Scott.I wasn't bashing anything. Dodge bodies and front axles don't last on a ranch and 6.0 PSD turbo's go to shit. I don't feel that is bashing. There is no perfect truck but if there was it'd be an 01'+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 D-Max/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" or a 96+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 12V CTD/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" IMHO.

:yawn: Boooooring.

Give it up Scott.I wasn't bashing anything. Dodge bodies and front axles don't last on a ranch and 6.0 PSD turbo's go to shit. I don't feel that is bashing. There is no perfect truck but if there was it'd be an 01'+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 D-Max/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" or a 96+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 12V CTD/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" IMHO.


What exactly about a Dodge body goes to shit on a ranch? What miracle of modern engineering allow a GM or Ford body to survive on a ranch - besides removing the dumbass driver from behind the wheel?

Brian

Give it up Scott.I wasn't bashing anything. Dodge bodies and front axles don't last on a ranch and 6.0 PSD turbo's go to shit. I don't feel that is bashing. There is no perfect truck but if there was it'd be an 01'+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 D-Max/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" or a 96+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 12V CTD/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" IMHO.

i second that movement!:D or a DMax or CTD, ally, in a ford

What exactly about a Dodge body goes to shit on a ranch? What miracle of modern engineering allow a GM or Ford body to survive on a ranch - besides removing the dumbass driver from behind the wheel?

Brian


The toughest trucks I ever owned were 91 dodge d250's and a 94 Dodge 2500.The 94 3/4 ton chebby fell completely apart before reaching 100k The dodges made it past 200 k with me and are still going.

I now have a Ford because they were the only choice for a crew cab Diesel at the time and I really like the truck. The interior is far better than the Dodges. I do not even consider Cheby any more due to thier poor quality.

What exactly about a Dodge body goes to shit on a ranch? What miracle of modern engineering allow a GM or Ford body to survive on a ranch - besides removing the dumbass driver from behind the wheel?

Brian

The cab supports crap out allowing the back of the cab to drop down.

FYI I was down at a local independent shop having my trailer re-wired and I asked he shop owner about the "Best" new ranch truck. The newer Superduties 99-04 have been going through front springs like crap, the Dodges are going through ball joints and trac bar's and the GM's are going through pitman arms and idler arms like they have since 88'. He says the very best truck is still a 73-87' GM solid axle which is what he drives.

BTW most of the trucks he works on are all owned by the same outfit which includes a couple of 35,000- 50,000 acre ranches and one 120,000 acre ranch.

:shaking: well I skipped pages 2-7 or there abouts. Anyway, I work construction. I see Fords, Dodges and Chevys all the time, drive them, ride in them and even work on em.

My conclusion is that chevy is a far better truck based off several things.

1) Dodges seem to lack power in higher rpms, bodys seem to be a weak factor but that cummins IS a million mile engine.

2) The duramax, it has plenty of power at any RPM, it still pulls HARD up to the gov at 95mph. Rides like a caddy, very quiet smooth ride. The only con I have really found is the low frame rails.

3) final the powerjoke by intervaginal....its a joke plain and simple. I drove a brand new 2006 about 80 miles to deliver the truck. First of all it has very poor power at ANY rpm. It revs to 5 GRAND! and sounds like its about to fall apart! ford really needs to redesign the 6.0L. Good body and fairly good interior/seats.


As my mechanic says " I LOVE THE POWERSROKE!!! it keeps food on my table"


p.s. hello fellow DP'ers :D

IFS is for cars :flipoff2:


so is twin I beam.............................................. .............................:flipoff2:

so is twin I beam.............................................. .............................:flipoff2:

pfft who has twin I beams? :laughing:

...The dodges are crap, except for the engine....

Watch it now boy... I was nice to your truck. Never did any real bashing, against u chebbies. Say somethin' like that, and you better be ready to back it up.

HAHA! whats up, your dodge is awesome!, just because its yours. What was your 1/4 mile time again?? when you going to put a bigger turbo on that beast?

yup...my TRUCK ran an 18 sumthin...as you posted earlier, I got my truck for work, not racing. Just let me know when you need me, and I'll be happy to drive down in my dodge to the loading dock and pick up your new engine when you need a new block, or whatever you blow hotrodding your "tow rig" out

pfft who has twin I beams? :laughing:

you tell me. No, they dont use them now, but it took many years before they finally switched to a front axle that doesnt collapse after 40,000 miles.

[quote/]
yup...my TRUCK ran an 18 sumthin...as you posted earlier, I got my truck for work, not racing. Just let me know when you need me, and I'll be happy to drive down in my dodge to the loading dock and pick up your new engine when you need a new block, or whatever you blow hotrodding your "tow rig" out [quote/]




:laughing: thanks ridder:flipoff2:

you tell me. No, they dont use them now, but it took many years before they finally switched to a front axle that doesnt collapse after 40,000 miles.

dude, you're my idol

:shaking: well I skipped pages 2-7 or there abouts. Anyway, I work construction. I see Fords, Dodges and Chevys all the time, drive them, ride in them and even work on em.

My conclusion is that chevy is a far better truck based off several things.

1) Dodges seem to lack power in higher rpms, bodys seem to be a weak factor but that cummins IS a million mile engine.

2) The duramax, it has plenty of power at any RPM, it still pulls HARD up to the gov at 95mph. Rides like a caddy, very quiet smooth ride. The only con I have really found is the low frame rails.

3) final the powerjoke by intervaginal....its a joke plain and simple. I drove a brand new 2006 about 80 miles to deliver the truck. First of all it has very poor power at ANY rpm. It revs to 5 GRAND! and sounds like its about to fall apart! ford really needs to redesign the 6.0L. Good body and fairly good interior/seats.


As my mechanic says " I LOVE THE POWERSROKE!!! it keeps food on my table"


p.s. hello fellow DP'ers :DGet lost you stupid troll, your truck is gay, just like your 2 dads.

Get lost you stupid troll, your truck is gay, just like your 2 dads.

good one, mr. reverend fag.

duratothemax, dont succumb to their immaturity, thats not going to get you anywhere...i really wonder how old you are scotty, you sound like a fucking fifteen year old:laughing: lets see some maturity :shaking:
Love, Jedbob

you tell me. No, they dont use them now, but it took many years before they finally switched to a front axle that doesnt collapse after 40,000 miles.
For only had TTB in 1 ton trucks for 5.5 years.
Chevy has been doing IFS for 14? years in 1 tons............


As for Ranch trucks, you guys must not live on a real a ranch.
We have a ranch truck, its an 84 2wd ford f-150, C6 tranny and 300 six motor.
Its got about 50k on the motor, and nothing on it had broke or have I had to put a single dollar into it (besides gas, and oil, only add oil though, no reason to change it......... ITS A RANCH TRUCK!)
How you guys get 100k on a ranch truck seems odd, you must have Stupid large ranches or you drive them on the road.
Ranch trucks never leave the ranch, nor would you care when a steering part wears out because the damn thing never goes faster then 25mph because it freaks out the livestock.

Why don't you and your AE DuraTurd both leave. No one really gives a crap about your ricer pickuptrucks.



duratothemax, dont succumb to their immaturity, thats not going to get you anywhere...i really wonder how old you are scotty, you sound like a fucking fifteen year old:laughing: lets see some maturity :shaking:
Love, Jedbob

duratothemax, dont succumb to their immaturity, thats not going to get you anywhere...i really wonder how old you are scotty, you sound like a fucking fifteen year old:laughing: lets see some maturity :shaking:
Love, Jedbob
Fuck off troll, you're a bitch too.

As for Ranch trucks, you guys must not live on a real a ranch.
We have a ranch truck, its an 84 2wd ford f-150, C6 tranny and 300 six motor.
Its got about 50k on the motor, and nothing on it had broke or have I had to put a single dollar into it (besides gas, and oil, only add oil though, no reason to change it......... ITS A RANCH TRUCK!)
How you guys get 100k on a ranch truck seems odd, you must have Stupid large ranches or you drive them on the road.
Ranch trucks never leave the ranch, nor would you care when a steering part wears out because the damn thing never goes faster then 25mph because it freaks out the livestock.[/QUOTE]

We have a 5500 acre Ranch and have been here for over 80yrs so don't give me any shit. Our trucks do it all,not just ranch work. The ones the mechanic was talking about never leave the ranch and yes,as I stated the one ranch is 120,000 acres. They belong to the Morman Church. They seem to be the only ones to have enough $$$$$ to get that big.

Scott, just calm down and go race him or quit bitching.
CJ,You're welcome to try to outtow me with whatever you drive. My nieghbor has an 03' CTD and a 20' stock trailer. He cannot keep up with my 01' D-Max pulling my 22' stock trailer. This was before I had a chip.

the saga continues...

Fuck off troll, you're a bitch too.

:laughing: :laughing: my point exactly!:flipoff2:

:laughing: :laughing: my point exactly!:flipoff2:
Glad you agree you're a bitch.

The cab supports crap out allowing the back of the cab to drop down.

In over 6 years on TDR I don't recall hearing about cab supports failing on 2nd Gen ('94-'02) trucks. I have heard abour core supports failing and cracking of the cab below the bottom corners of the windshield on 1st Gen ('89-'93) trucks.

Brian

Glad you agree you're a bitch.

:laughing: who brought the funny guy?:flipoff2:

:laughing: who brought the funny guy?:flipoff2:
*crickets*

In over 6 years on TDR I don't recall hearing about cab supports failing on 2nd Gen ('94-'02) trucks. I have heard abour core supports failing and cracking of the cab below the bottom corners of the windshield on 1st Gen ('89-'93) trucks.

Brian

I am curious were this "cab supports failing" comes from. I have never heard of this before either. I have owned Dodge pickups for over 30 years. I have beat the crap out of them and they have never let me down.

I do agree that the Dodge cabs are not as refined as the Ford or Chevys, The chevys certainly ride better, and they are higher reving and much quicker than the Ford or Dodge. If your into speed, buy the Chevy. The Ford cabs are great, but the 6.0 Powerstroke is a disaster, Ford is well aware of the problems. You can order the Ford with the Cummins engine in it, but I believe it has to be in a F-450 or bigger....This is a great package.

The one fact that at this point in time is, the Cummins is a PROVEN million mile engine. The Ford and Chevy engines have been been discribed as throw away engines by many of the bigger Diesel engine rebuilders, The Ford doing well to 200-300 hundred thousand and the Duramax making it to perhaps 400 thousand. I know this will piss off some people, and there are always exceptions to the rule. Buy what you like. Your the one making the payments.

Give it up Scott.I wasn't bashing anything. Dodge bodies and front axles don't last on a ranch and 6.0 PSD turbo's go to shit. I don't feel that is bashing. There is no perfect truck but if there was it'd be an 01'+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 D-Max/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" or a 96+ GM 3500 SRW 4x4 12V CTD/NV5600/205,D60/AAM 11.5" IMHO.



Why not just get an '88-91 GM and put a 12 valve/NV5600 in it with late model AC stuff and an upgraded interior? That's the 'perfect truck', IMHO.

You can order the Ford with the Cummins engine in it, but I believe it has to be in a F-450 or bigger....This is a great package.

only in an F-650 or bigger.

but, what do I know?

*crickets*
I've got a fly rod, where did they go?

sorry i busy was fucking your mom, im back now:flipoff2:

only in an F-650 or bigger.

but, what do I know?

Are you sure, one of the local shops just recieved a new Ford with the Cummins in it, everyone was checking it out. I was pretty sure the guy said he special ordered it, I swore it was an F-450.

Ranch trucks never leave the ranch, nor would you care when a steering part wears out because the damn thing never goes faster then 25mph because it freaks out the livestock.

Thats because they are out chasing down the goats. :flipoff2:

I do agree that the Dodge cabs are not as refined as the Ford or Chevys, The chevys certainly ride better, and they are higher reving and much quicker than the Ford or Dodge. If your into speed, buy the Chevy. The Ford cabs are great, but the 6.0 Powerstroke is a disaster, Ford is well aware of the problems. You can order the Ford with the Cummins engine in it, but I believe it has to be in a F-450 or bigger....This is a great package.

That's funny - the one thing I HATE about the Ford SD is the dash. That combined with the recommendation of the Director for the engine test lab that did all the testing on the PSD turbocharger (I worked for him when I co-op'd at Garrett) that he'd buy the Dodge w/Cummins is why I bought the Dodge...

Brian

great don... now this thread will go another 7 pages from your post :flipoff2:


with this many morons, we are looking at least 10 pages.

That's funny - the one thing I HATE about the Ford SD is the dash. That combined with the recommendation of the Director for the engine test lab that did all the testing on the PSD turbocharger (I worked for him when I co-op'd at Garrett) that he'd buy the Dodge w/Cummins is why I bought the Dodge...


Brian


im aslo not a fan of the dash, and the interior of the ford, there is plenty of room, but it lacks in clean design. Im not a car designer by any means, but i think that ford could have spent some time and money in redesigning the 7 year (from 99?) old inteior. Same with dodge, but these trucks are built for work, not for looks...

but, what do I know?
http://www.chickenorfish.com/movies/2times2many-NAWS-cof.jpg




Not much:flipoff2:

Are you sure, one of the local shops just recieved a new Ford with the Cummins in it, everyone was checking it out. I was pretty sure the guy said he special ordered it, I swore it was an F-450.

The only diesel availible in the F-450's and -550's is the VT365...

you can get a Cummins in an F-650 and F-750.

That combined with the recommendation of the Director for the engine test lab that did all the testing on the PSD turbocharger (I worked for him when I co-op'd at Garrett) that he'd buy the Dodge w/Cummins is why I bought the Dodge...
Brian


And they say the powerstroke isnt a piece of shit huh????? :shaking:

With your vast tuning knowledge why aren't you working as a consultant for a large company making bank? What type of testing are you doing to validate your table tweaking? Quick ET's are great but they don't make for a reliable tow rig/DD and are only a small part of a very large equation.

For somebody that claims to know so much about diesels I find very difficult to believe you knowingly ran at ~1900F EGTs and 52psi boost for any amount of time.

Brian

Yeah, I have that run on video if you would like me to prove it... Just barely reading the thread so I might be somewhat behind...

Yeah, I have that run on video if you would like me to prove it... Just barely reading the thread so I might be somewhat behind...

x2, i saw the video, i couldnt believe it either, till i actually saw it

wow...what a great thread, ill be reading more and more arguing!

BTW, i lovemy dodge, but if i was buying a new 06 it would be a toss up between the cummins or the duramax...both are nice, trucks, id love a new mega cab dodge, but the chevy still deserves some credit.

ford is a disaster, the 7.3 had SOME problems, the 6.0 was one big problem they could never fix, and now they go and design a whole new 6.4L twin turbo motor...wonder when that work of engineering will actually hit the streets

wow...what a great thread, ill be reading more and more arguing!

BTW, i lovemy dodge, but if i was buying a new 06 it would be a toss up between the cummins or the duramax...both are nice, trucks, id love a new mega cab dodge, but the chevy still deserves some credit.

ford is a disaster, the 7.3 had SOME problems, the 6.0 was one big problem they could never fix, and now they go and design a whole new 6.4L twin turbo motor...wonder when that work of engineering will actually hit the streets


How DARE you bring this thread back on topic!!!!!......:D We need to read WAY more chest thumping from Maxipad and his friends........

but the chevy still deserves some credit.

ford is a disaster, the 7.3 had SOME problems, the 6.0 was one big problem they could never fix, and now they go and design a whole new 6.4L twin turbo motor...wonder when that work of engineering will actually hit the streets

ouch, the truth hurts huh girls?! :D

Not really, I have only had problems with one Dodge out of 5 and that was a 98.5. My 03 Ford 7.3 has never had a problem of course Since Ford has more trucks on the road, they will have a few with problems. Just like Chebby's allison tranny problems.

ouch, the truth hurts huh girls?! :D

Not really, I have only had problems with one Dodge out of 5 and that was a 98.5. My 03 Ford 7.3 has never had a problem of course Since Ford has more trucks on the road, they will have a few with problems. Just like Chebby's allison tranny problems.

OH OH! please tell me the allison problems.....please! Id love to know

90% of the trucks on the road are fords, the other 10% made it home! lol

Todd

All you have to do is read all of the TSB's such as the one that covers the case cracking.

Now run along MAXipad

OH OH! please tell me the allison problems.....please! Id love to know

90% of the trucks on the road are fords, the other 10% made it home! lol

Todd

All you have to do is read all of the TSB's such as the one that covers the case cracking.

Now run along MAXipad

fill me in. Show me a TSB copy. I have not heard of case cracking. The only TSB's were the early brown/tan colored NSBU switches, and the 2002's had small issues with converter drain back when the truck has been sitting for a while. That wasnt a "problem" tho, it would jsut cuase the truck to "clunk" into gear when first started.

other than the NSBU the Ally hasnt had any problems. Thats more than can be said for your (joke)4R100(joke)

All you have to do is read all of the TSB's such as the one that covers the case cracking.

Now run along MAXipad


Duratothemax and I have owned dmax's for a quite a while, why is it we havnt gotten any letters reguarding recalls on the allison?? oh yeah cause your full of shit. yes, please post a few for us to read.

Thanks
Todd

Duratothemax and I have owned dmax's for a quite a while, why is it we havnt gotten any letters reguarding recalls on the allison?? oh yeah cause your full of shit. yes, please post a few for us to read.

Thanks
Todd

Here are just a few for you wonderful GM UN-Duramax

Description Issue Date
Buy! 06-08-42-002 SUNSHADE (VISOR) VANITY MIRROR BULB INOPERATIVE 2006-02-01
Buy! 06-07-30-006 DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION FOR FRONT WHEEL DRIVE TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION FINAL DRIVE AND/OR FRONT BEARING HUM AND/OR GRIND NOISE 2006-02-01
Buy! 05068A RECALL: FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 04-08-46-003B UNABLE TO CONNECT TO ONSTAR OR ONSTAR PERSONAL CALLING INOPERATIVE - ALASKA ONLY - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 03-07-30-044B INFORMATION ON ALLISON TRANSMISSION SERVICE REPAIRS - FULL SERVICE OF INTERNAL COMPONENTS - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 03-07-30-031E TRANSMISSION LEAKS, SLIPS, VEHICLE WILL NOT MOVE - 4WD WITH ALLISON 1000 SERIES A/T - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 02-07-30-052C AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER FLUSH AND FLOW TEST ESSENTIAL TOOL J 45096 TRANSFLOW - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 02-06-05-004B MISFIRE DTC P0300/P1380/P1381 AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER DAMAGE DUE TO INSTALLATION OF ALARM SYSTEMS - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 01-07-30-036F DIAGNOSTIC TIPS FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DTC P0756, SECOND, THIRD, FOURTH GEAR START - 4L60-E, 4L65-E, OR 4L70-E - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 00-02-35-003J CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL AND/OR STEERING COLUMN - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 06-06-01-003 INFORMATION ON LONGER MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS REQUIRED FOR CERTAIN 2001-2006 LB7, LLY, LBZ DURAMAX DIESEL ENGINES 2006-01-01
Buy! 00-02-35-003I CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL AND/OR STEERING COLUMN - REVISED 2006-01-01
Buy! 04-07-30-028A 4T65-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK FROM REVERSE SERVO COVER - REVISED 2006-01-01

for powerstroke, refer to:
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/60bulletin.htm

Updated: 3-25-06

2003/04 Computer Programming Recall 06E17:
Truck built before 9-29-03 are being recalled to have the computer reprogrammed. The reason for this recall is to correct fuel injection timing during cold operation, EGR valve control, lack of power, check engine light illumination (P02263 or P0299), hard starting and rough running concerns related to Exhaust BackPressure sensor corrosion. Other symptoms not listed in this recall, but which could occur, would be excessive smoke, turbo control and surging at idle or cruise. The new update eliminates the EBP sensor input to the computer. The exhaust backpressure will now be inferred/calculated using other sensor signals. Trucks should be reprogrammed using versions 41.8 or 42.1 or higher.
After this reprogramming, the truck should be test driven, the computer checked for a codes and the codes cleared (even if none are present), the key cycled on for five seconds, then turned off twice, then the engine started and allowed to idle for 5 minutes at operating temperature to allow the computer to relearn the EGR valve closed position value. This is to prevent erronious codes or driveability sysmptoms related to the EGR valve an turbo performance. Broadcast Messages 5452, 5529.
You should notice an increase in turbo cycling closed/whistling at idle and at stops. This is normal, and is to help keep the variable vanes from sticking.

2005-06 F-SuperDuty/Excursion No-Start, High Preessure Oil System Leak:
Some trucks may develop an oil leak at the high pressure oil pump outlet fitting. This will cause a no-start condition as the computer needs to see at least 500 PSI before it will activate the injectors. If high pressure oil leak diagnosis indicates a leak at the pump, the pump outlet fitting (W301727) and the discharge tube block (5C3Z-9C854-A) should be replaced. Do not torque the outlet fitting beyond 38 ft/lbs. TSB 06-4-6.
The following bulletin may be related:
Metal Tapping Noise from Rear of Engine:
Excursions built after 1-10-05 and 2005/06 F-SuperDuty may have a metal tapping noise from the rear of the engine on decel or light acceleration, or under loads when the high oil pressure is at higher levels. This may be due to a damaged/improperly fitting HP oil pump output quick connect fitting. To diagnose, you will need a scan tool with active command capability. Command the IRP duty cycle to 45% and listen at the high pressure oil pump cover with a stethescope as the engine speed is increased to 2800 RPM. If the noise is louder on the pump cover than on other parts of the engine, the pump cover will need to come off to inspect and replace the fitting. Broadcast Message 5511.

2003-06 EGR Code P0404:
Some vehicles may store EGR control performance code P0404. This occurs when the difference between commanded and actual EGR valve position is more than 10% for 10-15 seconds. This can be caused by voltage drop on the EGR control circuits, a sticking EGR valve, or excessive exhaust backpressure. Diagnose by checking for and addressing other codes. Perform the EGR valve active command test. If the valve passes the test, check for excessive exhaust backpressure from plugged exhaust system or sticking VGT vanes. Broadcast Message 5468.

Cylinder Contribution Codes, 2003-06 F-SuperDuty and Excursion:
For trucks with codes P0263, 266, 269, 272, 275, 278, 281 or 284 for cylinder contribution (misfire), there are new diagnsotic steps available in the on-line PC/ED manual. Broadcast Message 5528.

2005/06 F-Series Front Suspension Bottoms Out:
Some trucks may bottom out on the rubber jounce bumpers and/or make a banging/clunking noise. This condition is typically worse cold and more noticable on bumps or rough roads. There are new jounce bumpers (5C3Z-3020-DA)and larger metal cups (5C3Z-3A089-BA) to correct this problem. Install new self tapping screws (N802455-S426) to retain the metal cups.
TSB 06-6-6

Coolant Expelling From Degas Bottle:
Trucks built with the 6.0 PowerStroke engine may exhibit coolant loss, low coolant, or coolant blowing out of the degas bottle. First, ensure the coolant level is not too high and the expulsion is not due to normal expansion. The coolant level in the bottle at normal operating temperature should be at the MIN mark. 2005 trucks should be checked to see if recall 05B32 applies to them.
The coolant bottle cap should be checked to see if it is capable of holding 16 PSI, and it is sealing properly on the coolant bottle. Pressure test the cooling system to verify there are no leaks. Note: It is advised to either disconnect the right exhaust manifold from the right side turbo Y-pipe, or to raise the rear of the vehicle and remove the EGR valve to check for an EGR cooler leak. Failure to do so may result in a hydralically-locked cylinder. Repair any leaks as necessary.
Inspect the coolant for oil, which would indicate a leaking oil cooler. Check the engine oil sensor reading against the coolant temp sensor. An EOT that is 25 degrees higher may indicate a failed oil cooler. On Econolines, if the engine oil cooler is replaced, the heater core inlet hose should be replaced with part 5C2Z-18472-AA, which includes an internal restrictor. If oil is present in the cooling system, the system will have to be cleaned using a solution of 1/2 cup low-sudsing liquid dishasher detergent to six gallons of water, possibly up to three times. Flush the system afterwards with clean water.
If the coolant expulsion occurs under high load conditions, suspect head gaskets that are leaking compression into the cooling system. It may be necessary to test drive the truck with a pressure gauge TEE'd into a hose and the cooling system sealed so it will not vent to verify over-pressure. When replacing the head gaskets, it is necessary to install new head bolts--they are not reusable. There is a revised torque sequence and specification for the head bolts. The head gasket kits have been revised to include parts needed in the service, but the gaskets themselves are not updated. Recommend using kit 5C3Z-6079-B, which includes all parts for both sides of the engine and covers 2003-2005. You will have to purchase the two intake manifold to head gaskets, oil filter, oil filter base o-ring, oil vent tube o-ring and heater pipe to timing cover o-ring seperately. Note: The turbo should be checked for sticking/overboost to prevent reoccurance of the head gaskets blowing.
TSB 06-3-8.

2003-2005 6.0 Water In Fuel Lamp Illuminated:
Some trucks may exhibit a water in fuel lamp that continues to illuminate after draining the water separator, or a flickering water in fuel lamp. This may be due to sedimate build up in the water reservoir or a computer calibration issue. Check the electrical connections at the fuel pump assembly for damage or corrosion. If the harness is damaged, repair or replace it as needed. There is a jumper harness available, part number 6C3Z-9F759-A*. Remove and fuel manifold from the fuel pump and inspect for debirs inside, and clean as needed. If the sensors inside the manifold ot the sensor pins are corroded, replace the fuel manifold with part number 6C3Z-9B249-B*.
*The fuel filter heater has been deleted from the fuel manifold. When installing the updated harness or manifold, also remove the fuel heater fuse (2003/04, 30 amp fuse #105 under the dash; 2005, 30 amp fuse #7 under the hood). If the light is on intermittently or flickers, or will only go out if the computer stored codes are cleared, the computer may need to reprogrammed.
TSB# 06-6-5; Broadcast Message 4968.

Emergency Use of Off Road Fuel:
The EPA has issued a temporary waiver for the use of high-sulfur off road diesel fuel in vehicles being driven on the road in some areas of the US. This is in response to shortages resulting from hurricanes Katrina and Rita. Using high sulfur fuels (over 500 ppm sulfur) can cause engine damage. It is recommended that oil change intervals be shortened by 50 percent (mileage or operating hours)when high sulfur fuel is being used to help prevent damage. Broadcast Message 4952/53.

99-06 F-SuperDuty Lack of Power/Low Fuel Pressure:
Some vehicles with steel fuel tanks may exhibit the above conditions due to the lining/sealer inside the fuel tank coming delaminated and plugging the pickup screen or fuel filter, or damaging the fuel pump. It is suspected that using gasolines or additives containing ethanol, methanol, ketones, or biodiesels higher than 5% is causing this to occur. Broadcast Message 5076.
I have seen this occur in an Econoline that filled from various fuel stations, so in this case fuel should not have been a cause.

Coking (carbon) Deposits in Turbo and/or EGR Valave:
Exhaust Smoke/Smell, Harsh Transmission Shifts, 2005/06:
2005/06 F-SuperDuty and Econolines built before 12-5-05, and 05 Excursions built before 1-10-05, may exhibit excessive exhaust smoke with complaints of increased odors while operating in high idle (PTO, charge protection or cold idle mode), as well as harsh tow/haul 3-2 downshifts while slowing down grade under load, or tow/haul 5-2 downshifts, shift hunting in normal or tow/haul mode, or late 5-6 shift in tow/haul. The computer should be reprogrammed with calibrations included in release B39.15 or higher, or B40.2 or higher.
TSB #06-2-4.

RECALL 05E15 REVISED 1-10-06
Now included are certain 2004 and 2005 trucks built after 6-1-04. All trucks effected by this recall will now be reprogrammed using WDS version 40.7 or higher, or 41.1 or higher.
2004/05 Emissions and EBP Sensor Recall 05E15:
Certain 2004 and 2005 trucks are being recalled for computer reprogramming and replacment of the Exhaust BackPressure sensor and, in some cases, the EBP sensor connector. Econolines built between 12-9-03 through 5-28-04, and SuperDuties and Excursions built between 12-1-03 through 5-31-04 will have the EBP sensor connector replaced. SuperDuties and Excursions built between 9-29-03 through 11-30-03, or between 6-1-04 through 1-18-05, and Econolines built from 6-1-04 through 3-3-05 do not have the connector replaced. All of the above trucks will be reprogrammed to the latest calibration level. Since many trucks ahave already had the EBP sensor replaced with the current level part, the sensor part number should be inspected. If the part number on the sensor is 1850353 over a number starting with "C1", the sensor does not need to be replaced. Any other numbers, or unreadable numbers, will be replaced.

2004-2006 Vehicle Computer Reprogramming Recalls 05E16 and 05B35:
Under 05E16, certain 2005/06 E350's built from 3-4-05 through 8-7-05, 2005 Excursions built from 1-19-05 through 9-30-05, and 2005/06 F250/350's built from 1-19-05 through 7-31-05, as well as trucks reprogrammed under 05E15 with WDS version B36.10 through 38.8 between 7-5-05 and 7-18-05(prior to suspension of the recall in July, 2005), will have their computer's reprogrammed due to the programming information being incomplete. Additionally, certain E350/450's built between 3-4-05 and 8-7-05, and F250/350/450/550's built between 1-19-05 and 7-31-05 will be recalled for reprogramming under 05B35. There is no time limit on 05E16, however, 05B35 is only in affect until 1-7-07.

2005 F-SuperDuty and Excursion Coolant Bottle Recall 05B32:
All 2005 model/year trucks built at the Kentucky truck plant have coolant bottles on which the fill marks are positioned incorrectly, potentially resulting in the bottles being over filled, which may result in coolant being expelled from the bottle cap under normal expansion or aeration. Under this recall, labels will be afixed to the bottles showing the correct cold fill range. This recall will be in affect until 12-31-08.

Cold Temperature Lack of Power, Poor Economy, Hard Start, Excessive White Smoke, or Coking (carboning) of Turbo, EGR System or EBP:
This could be due to gelling of the fuel, formation of ice in the fuel tanks or lines or poor fuel quality. If diagnosis finds no cause for the above symptoms, try using a fuel conditioner, such as Stanadyne Performance Formula or equivalent, such as Motorcraft PM-17-A or -B (cetane boost), or PM-18-A or -B (anti-gell/cetane boost), that will improve the cetane level and lower the gell point of the fuel. Do not use any product containing alcohol. If the conditions improve with the additive, then find another fuel source or continue to treat the fuel. Broadcast Message 1309, 1464, 5113; SSM #17406.

Oil Leak from Rear of Engine Area:
< Oil leaks from the rear of the engine should be indentified and pinpointed using flourescent dye and an UV lamp. Leaks from the top of the engine can run down the back of the engine appearing as rear main seal leaks. Oil from failed cam or crank sensor o-rings can run along the seam between the main block and bedplate (lower cranckase) joint, apperaing as rear main seal, bedplate, rear engine cover, or upper or lower pan gasket leaks. Cam and crank senaor o-rings are available separately from the sensors (see msg 1268 below). Oil leaks can be cause by removing the front or rear engine covers without first cutting the gasket at the cover/block/bedplate joint, or failure to seal this joint with silicone on assembly. Broadcast Message 5164.

Stuck/bouncing Speedo and/or Tach, 2006 Trucks Built Before 1-26-06:
Before diagnosing the instrument cluster for this issue, first check for codes stored in the ABS module or engine computer. If there are no relivent codes, check the vehicle speed input to the cluster while stopped. If the input and the displayed speed do not match, drive the vehicle and monitor the speedometer at 0, 20, 40 and 60 MPH as indicated on the scan tool. If the speedometer is off by more than 5 MPH, replace the cluster. If the speedometer display matches the sensor input, diagnose the ABS rear axle speed sensor and wiring, and the ABS module wiring. For tachomater concerns, check the RPM signal in the engine computer against the tach reading at 1000 and 2000 RPM. If the display is more than 250 RPM off, replace the cluster. Broadcast Message 5165, TSB 06-7-4.

Recall 05B27--2005 TorqShift Transmissions, Trucks with Snow Plow Package:
On trucks built prior to 1-12-05, the snap ring on the low/reverse planetary may become dislodged due to the frequent forward/reverse shifting common when plowing snow. If this occurs, damage to the low/reverse planetary or transmission case may occur. Ford will disassemble the transmission, inspect for damage, and replace the snap ring with a revised part, if no other damage is found. This recall has been extended to 9-30-06, regardless of mileage.

04-06 Econoline Poor A/C Cooling/Compressor Failure:
Failure of the A/C compressor may be due to high side system pressures resulting from insufficient air flow across the condenser at idle and low speeds. A revised cooling fan clutch is available to improve air flow and prevent compressor failure. P/N 4C3Z-8A616-SA.
TSB #05-19-3.

Long Cranking Times at Factory Delivery or After HP Oil System Repair:
If a 6.0 cranks for longer than 2.5 seconds in temperatures above 32 degrees it may be due to air trapped in the HP oil system. To purge the air, drive the truck through 12 hard accelerations from 25-50 MPH. Turn off the engine and allow the truck to sit for 5 minutes. Restart the engine to see if crank time has improved. Crank times of 3-5 seconds in cold temperatures should be considered normal.
TSB #05-19-14.

6.0 Oil Pan Corrosion:
Some engines may exhibit oil pan corrosion if operatted in high salt enviroments. If corrosion is found, the pan should be cleaned of oil and dirt, sanded and cleaned. Apply Motorcraft PM-13-A High Temp Anti-corrosion Coating to the pan. TSB #05-20-3

2002-2006 Battery Terminal Bolt Broken or Corroded:
Trucks with the stamped metal battery terminals no longer require replacement of the cable if only the terminal bolt fails. The bolt (P/N 5C3Z-10756-A) and nut (5C3Z-18865-A) are now available to service this condition.
TSB #05-20-1

Broken EGR Valve Connector:
If the connector at the EGR valve breaks, it is no longer necessary to replace the entire engine harness to repair. The connector (P/N 5C3Z-14A411-A) is now available. Braodcast Message 4819.

6.0 Moan/Droan Between 1500-2000 RPM:
Engineering has investigated this condition and found the cause to be engine firing pulses causing the turbo mounts to vibrate/resonate. For trucks built through 9-29-03 install a revised turbo pedestal, P/N 3C3Z-6N639-BA. Trucks built after 9-29-03, install a turbo bracket A-brace, P/N 5C3Z-6N639-BA. If the draon is still present after installing the brace on trucks built from 9-30-03 through 1-17-05, replace the turbo pedestal with 5C3Z-6N639-AA. Ensure the droan is not caused by a bound exhaust system. Inspect for any damaged or broken exhaust hangers. Check the turbo downpipe by loosening the pipe at the top and bottom, checking its alignment and retightening. If the droan is still present, check the part number embossed on the turbo pedestal just below the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler. If the number IS NOT 1846207C1, replace the pedestal with the above part. After replacement, or if the number IS 1846207C1, loosen the turbo inlet pipes and EGR cooler flange and neutralize by installing the components in this order: snug the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes; torque the EGR cooler clamp to 53 in/lbs; torque the pedestal bolts to 23 ft/lbs; torque the turbo inlet clamp to 9 ft/lbs: snug the inlet pipes to manifolds. Ensure all components are properly aligned. Torque the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes to 20 ft/lbs and the inlet pipes to the manifolds to 20 ft/lbs. Broadcast Message 0992, SSM 17530, TSB #04-9-4 & 05-19-12.

Flutter Noise on Deceleration:
Some 03-06 trucks may exhibit a fluttering noise from the air filter assambly on deceleration. This is a characteristic of the engine and posses no problems with the engine or turbo. No repair should be attempted. Broadcast Messages 1046, 4818
This condition should be intermittent and typically occurs when the accelerator is quickly released after a hard acceleration. If the flutter occurs at every deceleration, under load or at upshift on acceleration, suspect a sticking VGTurbo actuator or vane ring.

2004/05 Trucks with False EGR codes and/or Harsh Shifts/Gear Engagements:
Pickups built after 9-29-03 and Excursions built between 9-29-03 through 1-10-05 may exhibit EGR codes P0488 or P1334 with no driveability symptoms, harsh 3-2 downshifts in Tow/Haul, harsh 3-5 or 5-6 upshifts, or smoking during elevated idle operation. Additionally, 04 Econolines may also exhibit EGR surging (change in engine noise level), idle surge and low power, smoking, and rough idle following a cold start that corrects at operating temperature. To correct these conditions, the computer should be reprogrammed with WDS version 38.9 or 39.1 or higher (not version 39).
F-Series/Excursions: TSB 05-17-16.
Econolines: TSB 05-18-5.

6.0 Oil Recommendations:
Some trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit hard starting, rough running and lack of power in cold temperatures, particularly on a cold start. This may be due to the oil being to thick for the operating conditions. Ford is recommending to use the following oils for the listed operating temperature.
# SAE 15W-40 is the preferred oil above 30 degrees, but it is acceptable for use down to 10 degrees, and is recommended for towing down to this temperature.
# SAE 10W-30 is the preferred weight between -10 to 30 degrees.
# SAE 5W-30 and 5W-40 is acceptable for use below 30 degrees, and 0W-30 is acceptable below zero.
(All temperatures are in Fahrenheit.)
The oil used should meet Ford's specification of WSS-M2C171-D or API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4/SL or DHD-1. CH-4 is acceptable for use if CI-4 PLUS is not available. TSB #05-16-6.
Keep in mind that CI-4 oil is designed for the increased soot contamination and higher coolant temperatures of cooled EGR systems on a diesel; CH-4 is not.
Nowhere does the TSB mention synthetic versus conventional oil recomendations or ranges.
Ford has not released anything recommending NOT to use a specific brand of oil.

05 6.0 PowerStroke HP Oil Leak at Injectors:
Some vehicles may exhibit a hard or no start with low ICP pressure readings. Remove the valve covers and inspect for oil leakage where the oil rail installs onto the injectors. If leakage is found the affected injector should be replaced. Inspect for a missing oil inlet o-ring or spring clip. If these parts are missing, they will need to be located or engine dmage will result. Look inside the rocker carrier on top of the heads, in the oil pan and on the oil pick up screen. If the missing parts are not in these locations, remove the lube oil pump and regulator and inspect. Broadcast Message 3862, 4582, 5019.

2005/06 A/C or Ventilation Control Problems:
Trucks built between 9-15-04 to 6-8-05 may blow air out of the defrost vents with the mode selector in other positions. The vacuum pump may also run excessivly. Lower the glove box and inspect the vacuum lines to see if they are wraped around the panel/floor door actuator rod. If the hoses are wraped around the rod, inspect for damage to the hoses. If the hoses cannot be repaired, replace them with part number 5C3Z-19D699-AA for automatic temp control or 5C3Z-19D699-BA for manual climate control.
TSB 05-14-9.

Discontinued Dual Mass Flywheel:
2003-2004 trucks built before 12-1-03 with the 6.0 engine and 6 speed transmission and equipped with a dual mass flywheel, the flywheel is no longer available. If the flywheel needs replacement, use the single mass flywheel and clutch assembly for latewr models. Broadcast Message 4476.

Serpentine Belt Fraying/Shredding/Broken:
Trucks built prior to 1-1-2005 that exhibit this problem should have the water pump pulley and serpentine belt replaced. On trucks with dual alternators, this is for the inner main belt--the outer secondary belt is not replaced. TSB 05-13-16.
Water pump pulley: 5C3Z-8509-A
SuperDuty single alternator belt: 3C3Z-8620-DB
SuperDuty dual alternator belt: 3C3Z-8620-BC
Econoline single alternator belt: 3C3Z-8620-AB
Econoline dual alternator belt: 3C3Z-8620-BB
Excursion belt: 3C7Z-8620-AC

Light Surge after Turbo Replacement:
2004-2006 engines that exhibit a light surge on light acceleration up to 50 MPH, typically after a cold start, at steady speeds between 1800-2800, or when climbing a grade (towing or not), may have a sticking Variable Geometry Turbo actuator. If diagnosis leads to replacement of the VGT actuator, the turbo lube oil line--P/N 3C3Z-9T516-BA; should be replace as well. Broadcast Message 4459, TSB 05-21-5.

Lack of Power After Turbo Replacement:
When replacing a turbo for a lack of power and/or excessive smoke/oil consumption, inspect the turbine housing for the presence of the turbine wheel. If the turbine wheel shears off it will drop into the downpipe and cause a lack of power, possibly along with trouble codes P2263 (03/early 04) or P0299 (04.25-up). Broadcast Message 4449.

Exhaust Smell in Cab:
If an exhaust smell is present in the cab, inspect for leaks at the exhaust manifolds. Ford's procedure calls for warming up the truck to operating temperature, then shutting off the engine, remove the EBP sensor and use a smoke machine to feed smoke into the exhaust system. Inspect each exhaust port, manifold flange and Y-pipe joint for smoke leakage. I find using a length of hose as a stethyscope while the engine is running works well to pinpoint exhaust leaks. If a leak is found at the exhaust manifold, replace only the manifold gasket that is leaking(I think this should read INSTALL a gasket, since originally there are no gaskets at the manifolds). Gasket P/N 5C4Z-9448-A.
TSB 05-13-9.

Cylinder Head Revision:
Engines built after 3-30-05, and current service replacement heads, will no longer have threaded holes for the rocker carrier bolts. The 8 MM bolts were only utilized for factory assembly. The rocker carriers are retained to the heads by the head bolts. The original carriers may be reused with the new style heads. SSM 18676.

Engine Block and Upper Oil Pan Revision:
Engines built after 9-29-03 no longer have the six center mounting bolts for the aluminum upper oil pan/windage tray. The upper oil pan casting has been redesigned to eliminate the need for these bolts. Upper oil pans with these bolt holes should have bolts installed to prevent nooise from vibrations. New style upper oil pans can be used on older blocks, but older upper pans cannot be used on newer blocks. Broadcast Message 4357.

Installing Upfitter Switches on 05/06 F-Series:
To install upfitter switches on trucks not originally equiped with them, purchase wiring harness part number 5C3Z-14A303-AA, switch assembly 5C3Z-13D730-AAA, and, if the truck does not have the TowCommand trailer brake controller, utility box 5C3Z-2513546-CAA. Installtion instructions can be found HERE.
Broadcast Message 4400, 4977

Safety Recall 05S34, 2004 F-SuperDuty, Excursion and Econoline:
Affected vehicles are 2004 F-SuperDuty/Excursions built between 9-29-03 and 5-31-04, and Econolines built between 12-9-03 and 5-28-04. On all F-SuperDuties/Excusrsion the FICM harness will be inspected for chafing/damage. If damage is found, the harness will need to be replaced (estimated less than 2% of vehicles will require this action). If no damage is found a harness protection kit will be installed. On these trucks built between 12-1-03 to 5-31-04 the ICP sensor connector will be replaced due to the possibility of a poor crimp on the factory connector terminals. The Econolines covered under this recall only get a replacement ICP sensor connector.
Revised 7-6-05: The F-Seires and Excursions will have the FICM harness part number inspected. If the harness has a tag with "C97" on it, no FICM harness repair is necessary.

Customer Satisfaction Program 05B29, 2004 F-SuperDuty and Excursion:
Trucks built between 12-15-03 and 3-31-04 with the plastic cold side intercooler tube with worm gear clamps (tubes marked "9 NM") are being recalled for replacement of the cold side tube. The replacement is an aluminized steel tube with silicone hose ends and T-bolt clamps, part number 6C3Z-6C640-AA. This recall will be in effect until 7-31-06, regardless of mileage.
2004/05 Trucks:
The recall does not apply to trucks built after 3-31-04 with the plastic tube and T-bolt clamps (marked "12 NM"). These trucks are covered by TSB #05-22-3. If the plastic duct on these trucks blows off, and the tube is undamaged, first reinstall the plastic along with a reinforcing ring. Position the ring over the duct and under the clamp, with the gap opposite the bolt on the clamp. If the clamp is broken or missing, replace it with p/n 1C3Z-6K786-BA. Clean all parts before reassmbly. If the duct continues to blow off or was damaged, replace it with hose and tube assembly 6C3Z-6C640-AA.

Intercooler Hose Blow-Off; Oil Leaks at Intercooler Hoses:
Some trucks may exhibit oil leakage from the hot side intercooler hoses. If one of the hot side intercooler hoses blow off it will cause the truck to exhibit a low power/low boost condition. Hot side intercooler tubes are no longer available as an assembly. Use the following parts as needed to service the condition:
Short upper hose, equal length elbow: 5C3Z-6C640-AA; metal tube: single alternator 3C3Z-6K769-DA or dual alternator 3C3Z-6K769-CA.
Long upper hose, unequal length elbow: 5C3Z-6C640-BA; metal tube: single alternator 5C3Z-6K769-AA or dual alternator 5C3Z-6K769-BA.
Use this hose and tube combination if the hose blows off
Clamps: upper hose 6C2Z-6K786-AA; lower hose to tube 6C3Z-6K786-CA; lower hose to intercooler 1C3Z-6K786-DA.
Lower hose, all: YC3Z-6C640-KA.
Clean the hose mating surfaces to ensure the hoses will stay in place. Seat the hoses completely onto their mounting surfaces before tightening the clamps to 9 ft/lbs. Test drive the truck while monitoring the boost pressures, which should be 22-25 PSI. An overboost condition will cause the hose to blow off.
TSB 05-13-5.
On 2004/05 trucks that exhibit the cold side hose/pipe blowing off at the intake manifold, replace the plastic tube with part #6C3Z-6C640-AA as in recall 05B29 (trucks built from 12-15-03 to 4-1-04), or repair as in TSB # 05-22-3 (trucks built from 4-1-05). Clean the intercooler and intake flange with brake parts cleaner. Seat the hose/pipe onto the intake manifold and torque the clamp to 9 ft/lbs (12 NM). Broadcast Message 1329, TSB 04-20-9, TSB 05-22-3.

2005 High Pressure Oil System Leak:
Some 2005 SuperDuties and Excursions built after 1-10-05 may experience symptoms related to high pressure oil system leakage, most commonly a hard/no start when the engine is warm. If diagnosis indicates a leak at the HP oil pump, inspect the pump quick connect fitting. If the leak is at the fitting o-ring, replace the fitting with P/N W301727. Broadcast Message 4320, 4932.

2000-2005 E-450 Rear Caliper Kits:
There is now a rear caliper kit available for the 2000-2005 E-450. The calipers may now be overhauled instead of replaced. Kit # 4C3Z-2120-A contains two dust boots, two caliper seals and an instruction sheet. Broadcast Message 4316.

Water in After Axle Fuel Tank, 99-06 Cab and Chassis:
Water present in the 40 gallon rear fuel tank on trucks with 7.3 or 6.0 PowerStroke engines may be due to snow and ice accumulating on top of the tank. As the snow and ice melts, the water may be drawn into the "mushroom" fuel tank vent cap. The original vent cap should be replaced with a vent line kit, P/N 5C3Z-9S327-A. The kit comes with a hose, which should be routed to the crossmember forward of the fuel tank, and a new vent cap. The vent cap should be positioned horizontally to prevnt moisture from collecting in it.
TSB 05-13-7

2005 Clutch System:
If any component in the hydraulic clutch system--master cylinder, line or slave cylinder; needs to be replaced, the entire system should be replaced as an assembly. Broadcast Message 4247.

2005 High Pressure Oil System Test Adapter:
Pickups and vans built after 11-4-04 and Excursions built after 1-10-05 have a revised standpipe and retaining plug. Trucks built after 9-29-03 that have had the heads removed may also have the revised standpipe as it is included in the head gasket kit. Pressure test adapter 303-1163 is now available to test the high pressure system on these engines. Broadcast Message 4246.

2004 SuperDuty and Excursions built after 9-29-03, EGR Throttle Valve Concerns:
Some trucks may exhibit an intermittent crank/no start concern. EGR throttle valve position codes P0488 or P1334 may also be present. Visually inspect the EGR throttle valve under the intake elbow to verify it is not stuck closed. Normal operation is for the valve to cycled closed, then open when the key is turned on. Broadcast Message 4235.
Trucks reprogrammed with WDS version B36.10 and higher may set P0488 and/or P1334 for the EGR throttle valve position sensor. Engineering is investigating this problem. If normal diagnosis does not show a faulty component, do not attempt a repair at this time. Broadcast Message 4245, 4544.

2005 Front Crankshaft Seal Leak:
Some trucks built between 12-15-04 and 1-25-05 may develop a leak at the front crank seal. This leak may appear to be coming from the oil regulator plug at the bottom of the timing cover. Florescent dye should be added to the engine oil. Trace the leak with a black light with the crank pulley removed to verify to source of the leak. Braodcast message 4217. This should be applied to all 6.0's with oil leaks that appear to come from the pressure regulator.

2005 F-450/550 Rear Axle Hub Seal Leak, Dana S-110:
Rear axles built in Brazil (check housing tag) between 5-1-04 and 2-28-05 (serial numbers HN01297868-HN01775113, on carrier tag) may leak gear lube from the axle hub seal. To correct, remove the axle hubs and replace the seals. On the axle housing, clean grease and dirt from the seal journal. Apply a bead of Loctite 680 to the full circumfrance of the seal journal and install a seal sleeve onto the journal. The kit(5C3Z-1S175-BA) includes sleeves for both sides of the axle housing and a tool to install the sleeves.
TSB 05-12-4

2005 Trucks, Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Runs Rough at Idle:
Pickups and vans built before 4-15-05 and Excursions built between 1-10 and 4-15-05 may exhibit hard or no start conditions with a low ICP signal, or a rough idle with a high ICP signal. This may be due to a damaged high pressure oil pump and/or IPR valve. The IPR valve should be removed (mounted on HPP cover under the turbo) and inspected for a damaged inlet screen or debris on over half the screen. If either condition is present, the IPR (5C3Z-9C968-CA) and the high pressure oil pump (5C3Z-9A543-AA) should be replaced, along with the oil and oil filter. If neither condition is present, continue with normal diagnosis. If a rough idle is present after replacing the above parts, injector damage may have occured.
TSB 50-12-3.

2005 Stall When Engaging Drive or Reverse, or at Stops, TorqShift Only:
Trucks built between 10-1 and 11-30-04 may exhibit a stall under the above conditions, along with various shift solenoid codes. This may be due to a sticking torque converter control solenoid. The transmission pan should be cleaned out, the TCC solenoid (3C3Z-7J136-BA) and external fluid filter replaced, and the cooler flushed and flow checked. TSB 05-12-1.
NOTE: These conditions may occur on vehicles outside of the build dates above. However, the same repair applies, although the solenoid part number may be different.

Various Electronic and Driveability Symptoms and Codes:
2005 F-Super Duty trucks built before 5-11-05 may exhibit various electronic-related symptoms due to loose/miss-installed fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. These symptoms may be intermittent. The fuses should be inspected to verify they are installed into the terminals in the fuse box and not along side the terminals.
Fuses--Symptoms
#9, 20 amp: Trailer turn signals inoperative
#10, 10 amp: Check Engine Light; Codes P1633, P0446
#11, 10 amp: Speedo bounce, ABS light, Cruise control inop; Codes U1900, U2023, P0500-P0503
#12, 2 amp: Cruise control inop, TBC Fault displayed, chime; Code C2803
#13, 15 amp: Day time running lamps inop
#15, 15 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; Codes P2614, P2617, P1378
#17, 10 amp: A/C inop or not cooling
#18, 10 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; P2614, P2617, P1378, P0611
#20, 10 amp: Trailer back up lamp inop
TSB 05-11-14

2005 ABS Light On:
The PCM and ABS moudule need to be checked for codes to determine where to look for the problem:
For PCM codes P0500-503 with ABS codes, check fuse #11 in the engine compartment fuse box and the ground in front of and below the driver side battery.
ABS code C1175: Check for wiring damage between the ABS module to the rear axle speed sensor.
ABS code C1236: Inspect for water or corrosion in the rear axle speed sensor connector. If corrosion is found, replace the connector with part #5C3Z-14S411-AA. If the light comes on when towing or under acceleration, or if no wiring concerns are found, inspect the rear differential for loose bolts or a damaged sensor ring, or excessive air gap between the tone ring and ring gear (greater than 0.010").
ABS codes C1175 and C1236: Perform the checks listed for C1175 first, then for C1236 if no wiring problems are found.
TSB 05-11-12

2003-05 F-Series and Excursion, Various Driveability Concerns:
Trucks that exhibit surge at idle, changes in engine sound at idle (EGR cycling), low power/smoke/rough idle on cold start that corrects when engine warms up, surge when selecting resume on the cruise control, flutter noise from engine just before transmission kickdown, buck/surge on manual transmission, should be reprogrammed with the latest calibration. This program includes a reduced EGR valve on-time during extended idle.
2004 Vehicles Built After 9-30-04: Reprogram with WDS with release version B36.10 or higher, or B37.10 or higher, but not version 37.0 to have the correct calibration update. Broadcast Message 4118.
2003-2004 F-Series and Excursion Built Before 9-30-03: For the above conditions, in addition to diagnostic code P1729, on 03/early 04 trucks, reprogram with WDS version B37.4 or higher. TSB 05-11-05
2005 F-Series and Excursion: Reprogram with WDS version B37.4 or higher under TSB 05-11-04. Pickups built after 11-4-04 and Excursions built after 1-10-05 may also have white smoke on drive away after being parked for a short period. Additionally, Excursions built before 1-10-05 may also have an illuminated, flickering or intermittent water in fuel light or P0401 diagnostic code.

Installing TowCommand on 05 F-Series:
There is now a kit available to install TowCommand trailer braking system on trucks that were not originally equiped at the factory. For diesel and all dual rear wheel applications use kit 5C3Z-19H332-BA. For gasoline trucks with single rear wheels use kit 5C3Z-19H332-AA. Broadcast Message 4065, 4643, 4937.
If a TowCommand brake controller is dealer installed on an 05 truck, it may not work correctly unless a master cylinder with a brake pressure transducer is installed, and the instrument cluster reconfigured to recognize the TowCommand. Broadcast Message 4642, 4928.

05 F-Series/Excursion Inaccurate Fuel Level on Low Mileage Trucks:
Some trucks may have an inaccurate fuel level indicated by the gauge at low miles. This may be due to being transported to the dealership at an angle. It may take driving for up to half a tank of fuel to correct. The gauge may self correct if the batteries are disconnected for a minute, then reconnected, or leaving the key on (engine off) for 15 minutes with the truck parked on a level surface. Broadcast Message 4044.

05 F450/550 Steering Gear Recall 05S30:
Certain 2005 F450 and 550 trucks built between 3-9-05 through 3-14-05 are being recalled for a steering gear inspection and, if necessary, replacement. The build date on the steering gear ID tag needs to be inspected for the following date codes: 020305, 030305, 040305 (March 2, 3 or 4, 2005). If any of these date codes are found, the bolt to the right of the steering gear ID tag needs to be checked for a green certification mark. If the above dates are on the tag and there is a green mark on the bolt, or if the above dates are not on the tag, no futher action is required. If the above dates are found with no green mark, the steering gear needs to be replaced with part number 5C3Z-3504-BA. New attaching hardware should be used when installing the replacement steering gear: 3 mounting bolts, W709143-S426; 1 input shaft pinch bolt, N803942-S101; 1 pitman arm nut, W709296-S426; hydraulic line seal N806316-S; cotter pin.

05 False ABS Activation, ABS Light, Codes:
Some trucks may exhibit false ABS activation or the ABS light on with codes C1175 or C1236. This may be due to an erratic/missing wheel speed input from the rear axle. The axle cover should be remaove and the speed sensor ring inspected for damage or excessive run-out, loose or damaged differential carrier bearings, sensor connector corrosion, or wiring damage. Broadcast Message 3874.

05 F450/550 Coil Spring Recall 04B25:
Some trucks built from 7-27-04 through 11-11-04 with snop plow package may have been built with lighter than specified front coil springs, which could sag over time. Identified vehicles also have an incorrect vehicle certification lable. Ford will replace the affected springs and install a supplimental weight rating lable. This recall is in effect until 3-31-06.

6.0 PowerStroke Fuel Filter or Oil Filter Housing Leaks:
The following parts are now available to correct leaks at the fuel filter and oil filter housings:
Primary (frame) Fuel Filter Housing: 3C3Z-9N180-BA
Primary Fuel Filter Cap: 3C3Z-9G270-BA
Primary Fuel Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-9364-BA
Secondary Fuel/Oil Filter Housing, <9-30-03: 3C3Z-9C166-AA
Secondary Fuel/Oil Filter Housing, 9-30-03>: 4C3Z-9C166-AA
Secondary Fuel Filter Cap: 3C3Z-9G270-AA
Secondary Fuel Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-9364-AA
Oil Filter Cap, F-Series: 3C3Z-6766-CA
Oil Filter Cap, Econoline: 4C2Z-6766-BA
Oil Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-6840-AA
Broadcast Message 3744, 3743, 4683

2003-05 Various Running Problems, Check Engine Light; New EBP Sensor:
Trucks built before 1-17-05 that exhibit buck/jerk, hesitation, lack of power, stalling, stumble, black smoke, surging, rolling idle, changes in engine sound at idle or when driving at a steady speed, or with the trouble codes P2263 or P0299, may have an exhaust backpressure sensor signal that is incorrect or erratic. A revised EBP sensor is available if this is found to be the case. Part number 4C3Z-9J460-A. Broadcast Message 3815.
Normal EBP signal reading should reflect atmospheric pressure with the key on/ engine off. Typically, this is 14.7 PSI/0.88-0.9 volts at sea level, decreasing one PSI/0.10 volt for every 2000 feet of elevation. It should be within 0.5 PSI of BARO and MAP sensor pressure signals.

2004 Econoline Heater Core Leak:
Vans built between 1-20-04 and 5-29-04 with a front heater only may develop a leak at the heater core. Replace the core with part number 4C2Z-18476-AA as well as the inlet hose, P/N 5C2Z-18472-AA, which has an internal flow restrictor.
TSB 05-2-5.

E450, Fluid Leak from Transmission-Mounted Parking Brake:
Vans built from 96-05 that leak ATF from the parking brake assembly may have a leak between the transmission and p.brake that is overfilling the p.brake housing. Drain the excess fluid by removing the p.brake fluid fill plug. Once the fluid level stabilizes, reinstall the plug and check the transmission fluid level, adjusting as needed. Monitor the fluid level in the p.brake housing, and if the level again increases, the p.brake assembly will need to be replaced. Broadcast Message 3684.

2005 F-Series Speedometer Needle Bounce, Cruise Control Drop Out, DTC P0500, and/or Uncommanded Wiper Activation:
If any of the above conditions are present, inspect the wiring harness running behind the coolant bottle to the wiper motor for chafing on a brake line clip and shorting to ground. If harness damage is found, repair and insulate the damage, and secure the harness away from the clip. Broadcast Message 3695.

2004/05 F-Series Manual Transfer Case Jumps Out of 4WD:
Trucks with automatic transmissions and manual 4X4 may jump out of 4HI to 2WD or 4LO to neutral. Adjust the transfer case shift lever plate--disconnect the shift rod from the transfer case pivot lever; loosen the plate retaining and pivot bolts; move the plate reward and tighten the bolts; place the transfer case into 4HI and move the shift lever to the 4HI position; Hold the shift lever against the shift gate and reconnect the rod to the pivot lever. If the rod and pivot lever pin do not line up, replace the shift bracket assembly (4C3Z-7210-BA) and adjust as above.
TSB 05-3-6

Steering Wheel Shimmy After Riding Over Bumps/Ruts:
Some 05 and 06 F-Series trucks may exhibit an oscillation/shimmy in the steering wheel after hitting bumps or ruts in the road. Typical steering wheel movement is 5 degrees and usually smooths out after about 5 oscillations. This condition is more prevalent on 4X4 trucks with steering wheels that have radio and climate controls. The truck will need to be inspected: tire pressure checked; steering damper inspected; all suspension and steering fasteners torqued; steering checked for binding; steering gear adjustment checked/adjusted. The caster may need to be reduced by 0.5-0.75 degrees. After this, trucks build prior to 10-8-04 should have the steering wheel replaced.
King Ranch tan/pebble: 5C7Z-3600-ABE
Charcoal black: 5C7Z-3600-CBA
TSB 05 22-1

2003/04 Lack of Power, Runs Rough, Check Engine Light on With EGR Codes:
Some trucks may exhibit exhibit the above symptoms, as well as have excessive white or black smoke, and may have the following EGR valve code(s): P0401, P0402, P0403, P0404, P0405, P0406. Diagnostics for the EGR valve have been updated, as has the EGR valve--P/N 4C3Z-9F452-A. Broadcast Message 3614, SSM 18362.

03 F-Series/Excursion Rear Pinion Seal Leak:
When repairing rear pinion seals leaks on single rear wheel trucks built between 1-1-03 and 6-30-03, a new pinion flange (P/N 2C3Z-4851-AA) should also be installed with the seal (E8TZ-4676-B). The original flange may have irregularities which are causing the leak. SSM 17486

Ratcheting noise from front axle; Hub locks not disengaging--99/03 F-series/Excursion 4X4
This will usually occur after hitting a bump while driving in 4X2 mode. This may be due to a worn or damaged axle shaft support needle bearing allowing the axle to wobble or vibrate in the within the hub. The entire hub assembly should be removed and the bearing and seals inspected for damage. If the truck is equipped with manual shift transfer case, ensure the vacuum fitting is capped to prevent contamination. The axle needle bearing P/N is C6TZ-3123-A. SSM #13697/8.
If the axle shaft is damaged, the outboard end of the shaft is available separately (P/N 3C3Z-3B387-AA). SSM #17066

Temperature Gauge Reads Hot, 05 F-Series:
Some trucks built before 12-10-04 may have a temp gauge reading at the top of the green normal band or into the red hot band, with normal coolant temperatures. If no overheat condition is present, the instrument cluster should be replaced. If there is a code in the engine computer for ECT over 240 degrees, or if coolant is being expelled from the degas bottle, do not replace the cluster. Diagnose the overheat condition.
TSB 05-1-2

04 F-Series/Excursion Power Steering Noise:
Some trucks may exhibit a moan or grunt noise from the power steering when turning the steering wheel, usually more pronounced on left turns. The noise may sound like it's coming from the steering gear or column. Replace the hydraulic pressure line running from the brake hydroboost to the steering gear, and the return line running from the gear to the cooler. Take care to prevent any debris from entering the hydraulic system.
Pressure line: 4C3Z-3A719-C
Return line: 4C3Z-3A713-A
TSB 04-23-08

05 F-Series Steering Gear Noise:
Some trucks built before 11-24-04 may exhibit a noise when turning the steering wheel, especially left turns. The noise may sound like it's coming from the steering gear or column. To repair, replace the steering gear with part number 5C3Z-3504-AA. Broadcast Message 3509.

05 F- and E-Series Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Rough at Idle:
Some trucks built before 11-1-04 may exhibit a crank no start with a low ICP reading, a hard start with slow building ICP, or a rough idle with a high ICP. If these symptoms are confirmed, remove and inspect the IPR valve. If the IPR screen is deformed, sucked into the valve, has a hole in it, or has metal debris covering more than half its surface, replace the HP oil pump (5C4Z-9A543-AA) and IPR valve (5C3Z-9C968-CA). If a rough idle is still present, the metal debris may have contaminated one or more fuel injectors. Perform normal injector diagnosis.
If the IPR screen is not damaged or contaminated, perform normal diagnosis as per the symptom.
TSB 04-25-18

Bump or Clunk when Starting from a Stop, 4X2 Vehicles:
This may be due the slip yoke on the driveshaft not slipping smoothly. Separate the slip yoke from the driveshaft (index for reassembly) and lube the splines with Motorcraft P/N XG-8 PTFE (Teflon) grease.
TSB 04-26-6
(4X4 vehicle can be fixed in the same manner, although not covered by this TSB)

99-05 F-SuperDuty Rear Suspension Lean:
This applies to rear suspension lean only. The truck needs to be parked on a level surface with no load (or at least loaded evenly) and all tires inflated evenly. Inspect for spring damage or shackle bushing wear. Measure vertically from the lowest point of the wheel rim (not from the ground) to the wheel lip. If the measurment is within 3/5" from side to side, no action is required. If the measurement is greater than 3/4", measure the gap from the top of the axle to the rebound bumper bracket. If this measurment is within 3/4", inspect the body mounts and have the frame checked. If the measurement is between 3/4-1", install shim 3C3Z-5A300-AA on the low side, between the spring spacer and spring seat. If the measurement is between 1-1.75", install shim 5C3Z-5742-AA on the low side. If the measurement is greater than 2", replace the spring. Install longer U-bolts if necessary.
TSB 04-23-6

2005 F-SuperDuty Rancho Shock Boot Change:
Starting 10-30-04, the red plastic dust boot on the rear Rancho shocks was replaced by a white metal dust shield. The front shocks still have the red boot. Broadcast Message 3414

Oil Filter Lid Leaks:
To prevent leaks from the oil filter cover, be sure to replace the sealing o-ring when performing oil changes. Torque the cover to 18 ft/lbs. If leaks continue to occur, check the housing for burrs and the lid for damage. If using an aftermarket filter, try a factory one. Broadcast Message 3403.

03-05 F-SuperDuty Manual Transfer Case Code P1729:
This can be due to the transfer case not fully shifting into low range. To ensure full engagement, shifting to low range should be done with the transmission in neutral and the vehicle rolling below 3 MPH. Broadcast Message 3402.

Recall on 2004 TorqShifts:
Certain trucks built from 3-8-04 through 6-24-04 may experience a failure of the low/reverse planetary assembly. Specifically one or more of the planet gear pinion shafts may walk out of the carrier. If this occurs metallic contamination of the fluid will occur and will cause harsh or slipping shifts and/or harsh or delayed engagements in forward or reverse. Trucks affected by this recall will have the low reverse planetary replaced if no damage has occured, or will have the transmission overhauled and repaired as needed, along with replacement of the transmission cooler, if damage has occured. This recall has been extended until 3-31-06
Customer Statisfaction Program 04B24.

Related to:
Harsh or Delayed Forward or Reverse Engagement:
This could be caused by a sticking line pressure control (PC-A) solenoid. Typically the line pressure will be fluctuatiing wildly (up to 500 PSI!). To service, first remove and insdpect the external cooler line filter. If it contains fine gray metalic debris. If metal is found, the source is most likely a defective revese planetary pinion shaft that is coming out of the carrier and contacting the case or adjacent components. The transmission will need to be disassembled and repaired as needed or replaced. Broadcast Message 3250
If little or no debris is found replace the line pressure control solenoid with P/N 4C3Z-7G383-AA. Broadcast Message 1586/SSM 17874/18051
This repair will require removing the solenoid harness, so a new harness sealing o-ring (P/N 3C3Z-7Z276-AA) will need to be installed. In some cases the solenoid body will need to be removed from the trans to remove the harness and solenoid. In this case the solenoid body gasket (basic P/N 7C155, trans tag number needed) will be needed as well. Note: Do not loosen the 10mm head bolts on the solenoid body. Only loosen the 8mm head bolts.
If the solenoid has been replaced and the condition it still pressent, suspect a contamination issue of the solenoid or a sticking pressure relief valve.

2004 F-Series/Excursion Barometric Pressure Sensor Application:
Be advised that the barometric pressure (BARO) sensor was changed for the 2004 model year. Trucks built before 9-29-03 use the same BARO sensor as previous models--F8UZ-12A644-AA. Trucks built on or after 9-29-04 (2004.25) use part number 4C2Z-12A644-AA. Using the incorrect part for applicate will cause driveability symptoms. Broadcast Message 3162.

2005 F-Series/Excursion Cup Hold Not Closing Flush:
Before replacaing the cup holder for this problem, remove the cpholder and utility hook, and inspect for any wiring that may be interfering with the closing of the cup holder (cigar lighter or trailer brake controller harnesses; radio antenna cable). Relocate any problem wires. If nothing is interfering, replace the cupholder. Broadcast message 3166.

2004/05 F-Series/Excursion Check Engine Light On, Codes P2614/P2617, Multiple Driveabilty Problems, Wait to Start or Water in Fuel Lights Flicker:
Trucks built between 9-29-03 and 9-15-04 may exhibit the above conditions as well as misfire, hesitation/stumble, rough idle, and/or lack of power symptoms. These may be caused by the injector harness chafing and shorting to ground under the fuel injection control module, along the intake manifold or on heater hose clamps. If the conditions are intermittent, attempt to duplicate them by wiggling the harness as the engine is running. If a chafed injector wiring harness is confirmed, replace it with a revised harnes, 4C3Z-9C891-AB. Broadcast Message 3285.

2005 F-Series Super Duty Factory Trailer Brake Controller Tips: Diagnosis procedures for the Towcommand system is in the workshop manual, section 206-10, Auxiliary Brake System. All voltage tests sould be made with the controller at the maximum gain setting of 10.0. Brake controller output voltage increases with vehicle speed. In park with the controller fully applied manualy, the output voltage on trucks built before 3-23-05 should be greater than 1-3 volts; after 3-23-05 greater than 10-12 volts. Controller output with the brake pedal is the same for either build dates. Full voltage is only available above 15 MPH. The Towcommand system works in both forward and reverse. Broadcast Message 3286, 4312, 4940.
When installing an aftermarket controller on trucks equiped with a factory installed controller, the factory one must be left intact and the aftermarket controller installed separately. The vehicle harness connector for an aftermarket cointroller is now a 4-pin connector, and is mounted to the back of the storage bin to the right of the steering column. The radio may need to be removed to access it. Broadcast Message 3332, 4080, 4926.
The Towcommand system is ment to only work with electric trailer brakes and not surge or electric over hydraulic brake systems. Broadcast Message 3179, 4924.
A message center display of "Trailer Fault" is not a problem with the the TowCommand controller. If this message only displays with a trailer attached, the problem is with the trailer wiring. If it displays with no trailer, the fault lies in the vehicle harness between the TowCommand and the trailer connector. Broadcast Message 4927.

2005 F-Series Super Duty Aftermarket Brake Controller Installation:
The vehicle harness connector for the brake controller is located on a support brace behind the dash below the radio. If provided, the adapter harness for connecting to the brake controller will be in the glove box. When installing an aftermarket controller on trucks equiped with a factory installed controller, the factory one must be left intact and the aftermarket controller installed separately. Broadcast Message 3332.

Econoline Front Coil Spring Recall:
Some 2004 Economline Vans built from 1-21-04 through 5-26-04 at the Lorain Assembly Plant were built with light springs than indicated by the vehicle certification label. Ford will replace the springs on affected vehicles at no charge until 9-30-05. CSP Recall 04B19.

Econoline EGR Code P0401:
Some 2004/05 Econolines built before 9-2-04 may have a P0401 trouble code stored in the computer with or without the check engine light being illuminated. The computer should be reprogrammed with the latest calibration to correct this concern. if the P0401 returns after reprogramming, diagnose the EGR valve and EBP sensor. TSB 04-20-4

Econoline ABS Module Recalls:
2003 Econoline vans built between 4-23-02 through 9-19-03 and 2004 vans built from 5-6-03 through 11-19-03 may have a defective antilock brake (ABS) module. These modules may short internally, causing the ABS light to illuminate and, in some cases, can overheat and cause a fire. Under safety recall 04S22, Ford will install a heat shield and a lower amperage ABS module fuse to prevent damage from the module overheating. If an ABS module fails, extended coverage programm 04N03 extends the warranty period of the module on these vans to 150,000 miles or ten years from date of purchase, whichever occurs first. If a van has already reached 150,000 miles, the coverage will only extend until 9-30-05.

TorqShift and PTO Operation--PTO Line Pressure Insufficient/Possible Transmission Damage:
Some trucks built before 9-22-04 will exhibit insufficient line pressure--less than 150 PSI--during PTO operation. This can result in no torque converter lock-up during PTO operation and can cause PTO or transmission damage. Assuming the PTO was correctly installed (a mission PTO line pressure orifice can cause the same problem), reprogram the powertrain computer to the latest calibration included in WDS release B33.6 or higher. Check for any transmission damage and repair as necessary. TSB 04-20-10

TorqShift Transmission or PTO failure, and/or Cooling System Contamination:
Trucks with PTO may exhibit a low or oscillating line pressure condition, or low/no PTO torque due to incomplete PTO wiring. Installers must provide a battery voltage signal wire from PTO circuit 322 (blunt-cut light blue/yellow wire at left side of dash) to the ECM, regardless of type of idle speed controller. This will command the engine speed to 1200 RPM, lock the torque converter and set line pressure to 150 PSI. Installers should referance the information at www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas. Broadcast Message 1730.

2005 F/E-Series Stationary Elevated Idle Control (Idle Kicker):
The stationary eleveated idle control system has changed for the 2005 model year. An APCM "idle kicker" control will not work on 2005 trucks. Information on how to raise the idle available at www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas. Select "bulletins", then select "Q-108", titled New Stationary Elevated Idle Control for 2005 from the QVMP bulletin index. Broadcast Message 3164; 4987

2005 F-Series Headlamp Switch Service:
The headlamp switch no longer pops out of the dash panel on 2005 F-Series trucks. The switch must be serviced by accessing the rear of the dash trim panel. Do not attempt to pry the swiutch out of the panel as damage will occur. Broadcast Message 1513.

2005 Block Heater Option:
All 2005 F-Series and Excursions with the 6.0 PowerStroke have a block heater installed on the engine. However, the cord for the block heater must be ordered as an option (code 41H). The cord is installed on vehicles originally sold in the following states: Alaska, Colorado, Iowa, Maine, Minnesota, Missori, North and South Dakota, and Wyoming. Broadcast Message 1512, 3090.

2005 Optional Auxiliary "Upfitter" Switches:
2005 F-Series trucks may be ordered with four optional auxiliary switches mounted below the climate control panel. These switches control installed fused relays (two 10 amp and two 30 amp) that can be wired to power accessories. The leads from the relays can be found behind the fuse box under the dash, and are labeled to identify with which switch each is associated. Broadcast Message 3093

Wire Chafing Issues:
A variety of driveability issues can arise from chafing/shorting wiring, such as crank/no-start, stall, running rough, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. The most common location for this is the valve cover/cover bolts near the FICM or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose. The harness should be rerouted and any chafe points insulated with rubber vacuum caps. Other chafe problems can occur where the sensor harnesses route around the valve covers, thermostat housing, idler pulleys, glow plug relay bracket, and near the accelerator pedal assembly (adjustable pedals), and also near the PCM by the battery and near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment. On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines. Broadcast Messages 1407 and 3077.

Hard or No Start, Glow Plug Module Connector:
In cases of a hard or no start caused by an inoperative or intermittent glow plug system, inspect the module connectors for damage, loose or displaced terminals, spread terminals or corrosion. There is a harness connector service kit available to repair 2003 and 2004 engines, P/N 4C3Z-12B568-AA. TSB #04-17-13

2004/05 Econoline Poor Charging Performance, Modified Vehicles with Single Alternator:
If you are purchasing an Econoline with the intent of installing high-load electrical devices on it, it is recommended to order the vehicle with the dual alternator option. If this is not possible, or your van is equiped with a single alternator and you find you need additional charging capcity, a 140 amp alternator, P/N 4C3Z-10346-BA, is available for purchase. Broacast Message 3055.

Diagnostic Scan Tool Tips: When performing retests or multiple self tests on the 6.0 with any scan tool, false codes can be generated if the ignition is not cycled between tests. The ignition must be cycled to off then on before requesting each KOEO or injector buzz test. Broadcast Message 1816.
On scan tools capable of performing power balance tests a bad cylinder may cause a low reading in adjacent or companion cylinders. Additionally,the FICM can compensate for a low cylinder and make pinpointing the faulty cylinder difficult. The FICM compensation can be neutralized by using the datalogger injection test active command. Start testing by selecting the power balance function (in park or neutral only). Without closing the power balance screen, switch to datalogger, select an injector to monitor and highlight it without actually turning it off. The FICM will revert to base fuel control and will not compensate for the low cylinder for one minute. Switch back to the power balance screen andlook for the low cylinder. An injector should not be replaced based on the results of the power balance test. Back up the results with relative compression, code retrieval and buzz testing, and crankcase and compression testing. TSB #04-15-13

F350 DANA 80 Dually Rear Axle Chatter on Turns:
Ford now recommends using 75W-90 gear lubricant along with 8 ounces of friction modifier to correct and prevent a chatter condition on turns. If chatter is slight, this can be a normal operating condition. If chatter is still severe after replacing the fluid, disassemble the differential assembly and replace the clutch pack, P/N 3C3Z-4880-AA. Prelube the clutch friction plates with friction modifier before assembly.
TSB #04-16-04

Intermittent Unsuccessful Remote Start and/or Stall After Remote Start:
Some trucks may exhibit a no start condition when using a remote start system. Or, the the engine may start and run for up to five seconds then stall. The start/stall condition may repeat itself up to four times without operator input. The technician should contact the Ford Remote Start Technical Hotline for diagnostic assistance. A tach signal booster, P/N 102818-2, may be needed. Broadcast Message 1722.

Safety Recall 04S15: Loose Grounding Stud at Engine Block.
Some trucks built between 12-1-02 and 3-31-03 may have a loose grounding stud at the lower right front corner of the engine block. The grounding stud should be replaced and any dirt cleaned from the block and/or battery cable end. If the stud is found to be loose, the radio noise supression strap at the right rear of the engine and any components adjacent to it should be inspected for damage and replaced or repaired as necessary.
Grounding Stud: W704983-S309A
Radio Suppression Strap: F81Z-19A095-AA.

Overhead Trip Computer Distance to Empty Reading Incorrect:
Trucks built after 11-18-02 may have an incorrect DTE reading displayed on the OTC. The OTC will need to be reprogrammed using As-Built data matching the specific tank sizes listed in TSB #04-15-10.

No Temperature Control on MAX A/C Setting, Vehicles with Manual Climate Control:
When MAX A/C is selected, there is no coolant flow through the heater core. This is a normal function of the heater control valve when operating in the MAX setting. Switching from MAX will allow coolant to flow to the heater core and the air temperature from the registers can then be adjusted for comfort. Broadcast Message 1781.

Serpentine Belt Noise:
Trucks built before 6-1-04 may exhibit belt squeaks or squealing. To correct, use the following belts per application:
F-Series, Single Alternator: 3C3Z-8620-DB
F-Series, Dual Alternator: 3C3Z-8620-BC and -HB (both required)
Excursion: 3C3Z-8620-AC.
TSB #04-14-12

Low RPM, Buck/Jerk, Miss, Stumble:
Some trucks built between 9-29-03 to 4-28-04 may exhibit these symptoms after decelerating down a long grade with the cruise control engaged. To service, the computer will need to be reprogrammed with the latest level calibration release, available with WDS release B31.11.
TSB 04-13-8

No Start or Constant Engine Misfire:
There are several things that can cause this symptom, including a failed FICM (fuel injector control module). In cases where the FICM is at fault the condition should be present at all engine temperatures, and codes P0611 or U0105 may be set. If codes P2614 or P2617 are stored the cause is more likely to be a wiring chaffing issue. The harness will need to be pushed and pulled to determine if the harness is shorting out. WDS should be used to verify the injectors can be commanded on (injector buzz test) and that the FICM is powering up (datalogger PIDS FICM_VPWR: ignition power; FICM_LPWR: FICM logic power from relay; FICM_MPWR: FICM output power to injectors--47-50 volts). If an injector does not click during the buzz test, a test light can be installed between the injector connector terminals 1 and 2 and checked for illumination when re-running the test.
TSB 04-18-6

Exhaust Leak/Hiss Noise:
Some trucks may exhibit an exhaust leak at the driver side turbo inlet Y pipe. This usually occurs at the flex bellows portion of the pipe, and may be due to misalignent of the pipes. Replace the inlet Y pipe, following the new service procedure (also found in droan noise above). Broadcast Message 1419.
Failed factory Y pipes should be returned to International for inspection. Failed replacement Y pipes, or replacement pipes that will not line up properly should be returned to Ford's North American Diesel Team (contact HOTLINE for details) for inspection.

Shorted Fuel Injection Control Module: Some trucks may continue to run at idle after the ignition is shut off, and the instrument cluster may stay on. This may be caused by an internally shorted FICM. To shut off the cluster and engine remove the FICM relay in small auxiliary relay box near the brake master cylinder. To prevent battery drain disconnect the batteries. Replace the FICM to correct this condition. SSM #16749.

Radio Interference with Head- or Parking Lights On:
To diagnose this condition, try operating the power mirrors. Disconnect whichever mirror causes interference and try actuating the switch again to confirm the noise is gone. Replace the mirro cover to correct the condition (base part number 17D742 or 17D743). Broadcast Message 1304

Manual Transmission Fluid Leak:
This may be mistaken for a rear main seal leak. To diagnose, add florescent dye to the transmission and test drive the truck. Inspect the transmission for leaks with a UV lamp. Broadcast Message 1490.

High Pressure Oil Standpipe Service:
On engine built before 9-29-03, if the standpipe running up through the head(s) to the high pressure oil tube is remove, it will need to be replaced. On engines built on or after 9-29-03 the o-ring on the standpipe xcan be replaced and the pipe reused. Broadcast Message 1426.

Clunk or Pop from TorqShift at 2-3 MPH:
A clunk or pop may be heard or felt on drive away after starting the engine, backing up and shifting to drive, usually around 2-3 MPH. This condition may be intermittent. It is the result of normal backlash (movement) between the splines on the low/reverse one-way clutch. Broadcast Message 1335

Oil Level Check Tip:
When checking the oil level on the 6.0, the vehicle must be on a level surface and the dipstick must be fully seated into the tube to ensure an accuarte reading. Do not add oil if the level is above the "MIN" line on the dipstick. Broadcast Message 1512, 1574.

ESOF Transfer Case Concerns:
On some trucks with the electronic shift-on-fly transfer case there may be engagement/shift concernes. Check the ESOF motor relays on the driver side fender. If the relays or relay box have become dislodged, corrosion may form on the relay terminals or inside the relays. Broadcast Message 1511

Lack of A/C Cooling at Highway Speeds/Rapid Compressor Clutch Cycling:
This may be due to low suction pressures causing the A/C compressor clutch to cycle too rapidly. On vehicles built before 7-18-04, recover the refrigerant from the system and recharge with 45 OZ on single A/C and 68 OZ on dual A/C vehicles. These capacities are different than shown on the A/C specification lable. Trucks built after 7-18-04 are factory filled with the above capacities even though the label has not been updated. Broadcast Message 3233; 4399.

Dual Mass Flywheel Applications:
F250/350 trucks with the 6 speed manual transmission built before 12-1-03 are equipped with a dual mass flywheel. All F-Series trucks built after that date with the 6 speed have single mass flywheels. Some F-450/550's built before the above date may have dual mass flywheels, too. When replacing, use only the same type parts that were originally installed on the truck. Broadcast Message 1472.

TorqShift Harsh/Slipping Engagements, Upshifts, and/or Downshifts:
If these symptoms are experienced after the batteries have been disconnected, then it is due to the transmission adaptive strategy being cleared from the computer. This may occur when the vehicle is delivered new from the factory as well. Warm the engine and transmission to operating temperature. Perform three series of upshifts at light, medium and heavy throttle. Perform three sets of gear engagements (N-R, N-D, D-R, R-D) with the brake pedal firmly depressed and waiting three seconds between each engagement. Peform these steps once in normal mode and once in tow/haul. Broadcast Message 1196

2003-2006 Fuel Economy:
Ford vehicles equiped with the 6.0 PowerStroke diesel are not rated for fuel economy by the EPA. If economy is in question, a boost test should be performed. If boost reaches 22-25 PSI in third gear, wide open throttle under load, then th engine s operating normally and no economy related repairs need to be performed. If not in specs, then the engine will need to be diagnosed--check sensor reading, VGT and EGR operation, fuel pressure and quality, crankcase pressure, intake or exhaust restriction, exhaust or CAC leaks.
Fuel economy will be affected by many factors, including: excessive idle time (one hour equals approxmately 33 miles of driving), fuel quality and blend, ambient temperature, driving habits, vehicle use, towing, loads, add-on accessories. Broadcast Message 1271; 4450

Oil Leaks from Lower Engine Area:
Some 6.0 engine may exhibit an oil leak that appears to be coming from the lower crankcase (bedplate), upper or lower oil pan, rear main seal, or front or rear covers. First inspect the cam and crank position sensors to ensure the leak is not the o-ring on one of these sensors. If the sensor(s) is wet, remove it and replace the o-rings. Cam sensor (driver side): 3C3Z-9N693-HA and -JA; crank sensor (passenger side): 3C3Z-9C064-DA.
An oil leak may occur at front or rear covers if they were removed without cutting the sealing joints behind them. Broadcast Message 1268

Vacuum Pump Inop or Ventilation System Deverts to, or Only Blows Through, Defrost Vents:
If the vents devert to the defrost mode, this is usually due to a leak in the vacuum system. Typically if the problem is in the automatic hub system, this will only occur when 4X4 is selected. If it occurs on in a specifc ventilation mode, the vacuum servos associated with that selection would be suspect. If the ventilation system stays on defrost at all times, a leak in the system at the vacuum pump, or the vacuum pump itself may be at fault. For vacuum pumps that are inoperative or continuously running, replace with P/N 4C3Z-2A451-AB. Broadcast Message 1244, 1575, 3278; TSB #04-16-08

Oil Leaks from Front and/or Rear Crank Seals:
If an oil leak has been verified as coming from either the front or rear crankshaft seals, the crankshaft end play must be checked to ensure it is 0.020" or less. If within specs, replace the seal using the correct tools and procedures. Broadcast Message 1240

2004 F-Series/Excursion Lack of A/C Cooling:
Trucks built between 12-1-03 to 1-26-04 may have strands of insulation trapped between the compressor and refrigerant line manifold. The system will need to be recovered and the the insulation removed from the joint. The tube and manifold assembly (4C3Z-19D850-CA) may be reused if it is undamaged, but the o-rings (1F1Z-19E889-AB) should be replaced. Broadcast Message 1118.

2004 Econoline Cut-Away Cab Driveability Concerns:
Some vehicles built before 2-27-04 may experience low engine RPM and/or other driveability concerns after a long deceleration in manual second or third gear. To correct, reprogram the computer to the lastest availabe calibration. Broadcast Message 1124.

03/04 F-Series/Excursion Cam and Crank Sensor codes:
Some trucks may exhibit a variety of driveability concerns with camshaft (CMP) and crankshaft (CKP) position codes P2614 and P2617 stored in the computer. If both of these codes are stored along with other codes, those other codes should be diagnosed first. f these two codes are stored with no other codes they should be disregarded and the concern should be diagnosed by symptom. For example, a chaffed FICM harness or no fuel pressure can cause both of these codes to be set together. Broadcast Message 1150, 1301.

03/04 TorqShift Solenoid Body/Solenoid Harness Application:
If the TorqShift solenoid body needs to be replaced, the new body may come with a missing pressure sensor. If the harness needs to be replaced it may come missing a connector for a pressure sensor. The input from the sensor in question was deleted from the TorqShift programming and is no longer used. The replacement parts an not incorrect and may be used. Broadcast Message 1151.

03-05 F-Series Overheating with Snow Plow Installed:
If a snow plow is installed on a truck with the 6.0, it may disrupt the air....


it wont let me copy anymore, but refer to the link above the exerpt for more :flipoff2:

Here are just a few for you wonderful GM UN-Duramax

Description Issue Date
Buy! 06-08-42-002 SUNSHADE (VISOR) VANITY MIRROR BULB INOPERATIVE 2006-02-01
Buy! 06-07-30-006 DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION FOR FRONT WHEEL DRIVE TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION FINAL DRIVE AND/OR FRONT BEARING HUM AND/OR GRIND NOISE 2006-02-01
Buy! 05068A RECALL: FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 04-08-46-003B UNABLE TO CONNECT TO ONSTAR OR ONSTAR PERSONAL CALLING INOPERATIVE - ALASKA ONLY - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 03-07-30-044B INFORMATION ON ALLISON TRANSMISSION SERVICE REPAIRS - FULL SERVICE OF INTERNAL COMPONENTS - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 03-07-30-031E TRANSMISSION LEAKS, SLIPS, VEHICLE WILL NOT MOVE - 4WD WITH ALLISON 1000 SERIES A/T - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 02-07-30-052C AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER FLUSH AND FLOW TEST ESSENTIAL TOOL J 45096 TRANSFLOW - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 02-06-05-004B MISFIRE DTC P0300/P1380/P1381 AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER DAMAGE DUE TO INSTALLATION OF ALARM SYSTEMS - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 01-07-30-036F DIAGNOSTIC TIPS FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DTC P0756, SECOND, THIRD, FOURTH GEAR START - 4L60-E, 4L65-E, OR 4L70-E - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 00-02-35-003J CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL AND/OR STEERING COLUMN - REVISED 2006-02-01
Buy! 06-06-01-003 INFORMATION ON LONGER MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS REQUIRED FOR CERTAIN 2001-2006 LB7, LLY, LBZ DURAMAX DIESEL ENGINES 2006-01-01
Buy! 00-02-35-003I CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL AND/OR STEERING COLUMN - REVISED 2006-01-01
Buy! 04-07-30-028A 4T65-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK FROM REVERSE SERVO COVER - REVISED 2006-01-01

you're a fucking dumbass. Only two of those pertain to the Duramax. Ill go down the list if you need me to.

sunshade visor- retarded, im not even gonna answer that

diagnostic info for front wheel drive- that obviously pertains to the duramax, again, im not even gonna answer

front wheel speed sensor- thats for tahoes, dumbass

onstar problem- retarded, im not even gonna answer that

information on Allison service- you're a fucking retard, thats information regarding updates to the service manuals, thats not a fucking TSB.

transmission leaks, slips, does not go into drive- that simply is just a service manual on how to rebuild the tranny if the customer complains of that, do a google search fucktard, its an addenum to the service manual. TSB's dont mean "this is a common problem and this is how to fix it". It means technical service bulliten. It means "we ahvent told you about this possible problem, so this is how to fix it if the customer comes in complaining about it". That was issued a while ago, when the dealers didnt even know what an Allison LCT1000 was.

the rest of those dont pertain to the duramax either.

except the clunking intermediate shaft. yeah, thats a problem on every single GMT-800 vehicle. Its an annoyance, nothing more. It only has to get fixed if it bothers you. Yeah mine clunked ok, if thats the most problems my truck ever has, i think im doing pretty well.

so basically, you're just stupid. Tell me how old you are. You are probably just a 15 year old kid who needs to make his dick feel bigger by sounding all high and mighty on an internet forum.

holy shit the Powerstroke has a lot of TSB's.

wow that VT365 must not be a very good engine huh??

I think I saw a recall on 2004 TorqShifts in there, something about a failing planetary or something major inside.

I THINK I saw that, I wasnt positive, my eyes could have been deceiving me...can someone check me on that? CJHeap was there really a recall on the 2004 TorqShifts? That cant possibly be, its such a good transmission..and the VT365 is such a good engine, are there really crankshaft oil leaks on it???







:flipoff2:

holy shit the Powerstroke has a lot of TSB's.

wow that VT365 must not be a very good engine huh??

yeah, mines bigger than his!:laughing: :laughing:

yeah, mines bigger than his!:laughing: :laughing:

No, that was actually for the 2500 silverado HD. I thought you claimed that GM made a superior truck? BTW, That was just an abreviated list of over 300 tsb's .Why do you keep changing the subject and pointing at the other trucks when the Chebbys are proven to have problems? Guess you are just a punk that thinks his truck is better than everyone elses. :laughing:

why don't you adress the fact that The Ford Torqshift trans is rated up to 33,000 GCWR. The Allison only 26,000 GCWR. 7,000 more lbs is a lot more weight you can tow. Could it be that GM is afraid the allison can not handle the load that Ford can?:D


Now you all get mommy to give you cookies and milk so you can get up and go to summer school in the morning:flipoff2:

No, that was actually for the 2500 silverado HD.

NO ITS NOT. YOU'RE THE FUCKING SMART ASS, YOU TELL ME WHAT KIND OF TRANSMISSION A 4T65-E GOES IN. T. T!!! T MEANS FUCKING TRANSVERSE MOUNTED. WHAT THE FUCK KIND OF PICKUP TRUCK HAS A TRANSVERSELY MOUNTED TRANS!?!!?

or sorry, as you put it, CHECK AND MATE, NUMBNUTS.

BTW, That was just an abreviated list of over 300 tsb's

then why didnt you post more. How about this time you post some that actually pertain to the 2500HD's.



why don't you adress the fact that The Ford Torqshift trans is rated up to 33,000 GCWR. The Allison only 26,000 GCWR. 7,000 more lbs is a lot more weight you can tow. Could it be that GM is afraid the allison can not handle the load that Ford can?

Ford is misleading with the GCWR. The 33,000 pounds is how much the transmission is rated to pull in a medium duty application. That is not at full hp rating. Also, the TorqShift has a lower GVWR rating. 22,000 pounds to the Allison's 26,000 pounds. The TorqShift is rated for less input hp and torque. The TorqShift weighs about 100 pounds less and physically looks half the size. The Ally input shaft is bigger than a 3 D-battery MagLite. Do you wonder why no one makes upgrade hard parts for Allison's in racing applications/bulletproof trans builds? The TorqShift's and 48RE's both need billet input shafts to hold up. The Allison has much better ratios for getting a load moving from a stop and, holy shit, where the hell did Ford get the brilliant idea of a thing called GRADE BRAKING? The TorqShift had two years of Allison history to copy before it was released. The TorqShift is little more than a revised 4R100, which was by no means a brilliant trans.

The Ally trans cooler flows way more too and holds A LOT more fluid. Also, Ive compared both Allison and TorqShift parking pawl's in person...there is NO WAY IN HELL that TorqShift park pawl will hold 30,000 pounds on a grade. The Allison parking pawl is rated for 26,000 pounds on a 30% grade in the HD's. The TorqShift is rated for 20,000 pounds holding capacity on a 30% grade in the Super Duty's.

So when Allison says you get a tranny that will hold 26,000 pounds, they arent bullshitting you. That trans will hold 26,000 pounds no matter what.

Ford beats around the bush and boasts a bigger "main" number that everyone sees, while the real numbers that matter are hidden behind the scenes. Did it ever occur to you that since the Allison is a medium duty trans to begin with, they maybe rate it a bit more conservatively and realistically?

in the real (medium duty and up) truck world, ask someone to name an auto transmission manufacturer. 10 out of 10 times they will say Allison. 0 out of 10 times they will say FORD TORQSHIFT.

You still didnt answer me how old you are, and btw nice grammar. What pilot ratings do you hold? I hold single, multi, and IFR ratings. See. Im younger than you and I have the balls to admit shit.

thats what the TURBOCHARGER is for, dumbass.

EGT will raise above the stoichiometric cumbustion point, but only so much, then it will actually cool down because there is "so much" fuel that its not even burned, and it actually will cool the cylinder temp down.

Do yourself a favor and learn about a turbodiesel. Intake dont do shit. Thats what a bigger turbo is for. I should know about high EGT because I burned up my stock turbo. 52 psi of boost and 1992* peak EGT for about a month was what it took. Turbo blew sky high and will never work again.
Thats enough for anybody to understand you are a complete DUMBFUCK

[B]
in the real (medium duty and up) truck world, ask someone to name an auto transmission manufacturer. 10 out of 10 times they will say Allison. 0 out of 10 times they will say FORD TORQSHIFT.

You still didnt answer me how old you are, and btw nice grammar. What pilot ratings do you hold? I hold single, multi, and IFR ratings. See. Im younger than you and I have the balls to admit shit.

As for the tsb's , sorry if Gm does not know how to file them since those are directly from their database as submitted.

Since we are not talking about the medium and up trannys, it does not matter. We have also established that you know nothing about the real truck world since you did not even know that one of the most widely used engines was a Cummins. We are talking about the lite duty GM tranny with an allison tag on it. And if GM was confident in their product, they could match Fords rating that they warranty.

As for my ratings, If you were a pilot, you would know what a ATP rating entails.

I see that mommy and daddy spoiled you well since there is no way that you could afford the training required for those three ratings and a 40 k truck on your autozone salary. You still live at home too?:flipoff2:

I see that mommy and daddy spoiled you well since there is no way that you could afford the training required for those three ratings and a 40 k truck on your autozone salary. You still live at home too?:flipoff2:

you still suck your dad's dick for payments on your offroad rigs?

I own my own buisness and have been working since I was in 6th grade. I pay for everything myself.

As for my ratings, If you were a pilot, you would know what a ATP rating entails.

go back to your remote control piece of shit. you couldnt even fly a paper airplane.

what A ATP rating entails. Nice grammer you illiterate fuck. I guess you learned that in flight school and when you got your double majors.

go back to your remote control piece of shit. you couldnt even fly a paper airplane.

what A ATP rating entails. Nice grammer you illiterate fuck. I guess you learned that in flight school and when you got your double majors.

Guess I am getting to the Troll, he is now complaining about grammar rules on the Internet. :laughing:


How did you even have the time to go to school while you were running your own business since the age of 6? You must have been very successful to afford such expensive hobbies. You also have a lot of time on your hands to be an entrepreneur of such greatness yet you only "tune diesels as hobby" . So what is you line of work that affords you such free time and expensive toys?



So how many hours in each type of aircraft do you have, BTW

You aren't too swift with "english" yourself :laughing:

:shaking:
Dumbass.

pfft who has twin I beams? :laughing:

Apparently cars do.:rolleyes:

And they say the powerstroke isnt a piece of shit huh????? :shaking:

At the time I bought my CTD, the Powerstroke had only been out ~2 years and had not proven itself in the real world. The CTD being an inline 6 cylinder is a hell of a lot easier to work on in the event of a problem.

Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian4wd
With your vast tuning knowledge why aren't you working as a consultant for a large company making bank? What type of testing are you doing to validate your table tweaking? Quick ET's are great but they don't make for a reliable tow rig/DD and are only a small part of a very large equation.

For somebody that claims to know so much about diesels I find very difficult to believe you knowingly ran at ~1900F EGTs and 52psi boost for any amount of time.

Brian


Yeah, I have that run on video if you would like me to prove it... Just barely reading the thread so I might be somewhat behind...

WTF?

Brian

:shaking:
Dumbass.

:flipoff: .

Everyone takes this too serious. It should just be good smack talk :D . What should we debate next? :laughing:

:flipoff: .

Everyone takes this too serious. It should just be good smack talk :D . What should we debate next? :laughing:

pepsi vs. coke:D

ready? begin!

pepsi vs. coke:D

ready? begin!


Blondes or Brunettes? ....or Redheads!? :grinpimp:

Wow Ben, you sure know how to piss 'em off :D

Anybody who is saying that the torqshift is better than the LCT is smoking their lunch.. Ford copied it to the tee and still screwed it up.

Yeah the LCT might limp here and there, but at least it will get you home. The torqshift will eat itself and then it's all over.

And as far as the Duramax goes what's the problems? A few injector troubles here and there and that's it..

As for the Sicks.Slow, you drive it home, then drive right back to the dealer because the intercooler boots blew off, or the VNT turbo and EBP sensor is going haywire causing 50psi of boost stock.. Then the head gaskets blow, then FORD denies your warranty because you have an intake on it and you're stuck with a $50,000 harley edition Arkansas yard ornament. True story :D Seriously

Wow Ben, you sure know how to piss 'em off :D..........



Coming across as an arrogant douchebag will do that for some reason

Coming across as an arrogant douchebag will do that for some reason

Yep, the big pussy was complaining about being picked on in the other thread:laughing:

He still has not answered the question of how he could afford such expensive hobbies with his job at Autozone.

He still has not answered the question of how he could afford such expensive hobbies with his job at Autozone.

Funny,considering he has a Tractor dealership.

Fuckin love these diesel threads, lets start another