View Full Version : Class C motorhome?
Dhorn33
06-12-2006, 01:40 PM
My wife and I have been kicking around the idea of getting an older Class C motorhome for going on wheeling trips with the family - and I am getting mixed info on them so I thought I would ask the experts here. We have been checking out mid 80's rigs most of which have the Ford E350 chassis and a 460 gas engine. I was told to watch for rear frame extensions or try to find one with a longer wheelbase for towing- but I have yet to see anything that has a tow rating higher than 5000 pounds? Although I haven't weighed it - I believe that my 16 foot DCT steel car trailer weighs around 1500-1600 pounds and the 97 TJ must weigh around 4000-4500 pounds at least making the towed weight around 6000 pounds. Is there such a thing as an older class C that can tow this legally - and is anyone doing it on here?
Hottrod81
06-12-2006, 05:39 PM
I currently have a 1996 29' Class C on a E350 chassis 460ci and tow a 1300lb 16' car trailer and tow a 3,800 lb. toy on the back. My is equipped with a banks kit and 4 speed auto. I also have the frame extensions and have not had a problem. If you are worried about them, you might try beefing them up a bit. If I was you, make sure it has fuel injection and at least 4.10's in the rear. I recently pulled mine up the four lane to Shaver Lake (if you are familiar with that area) and never went below 45mph. Just my $.02/:D
2Dogs
06-12-2006, 05:42 PM
Holiday Rambler were some of the best Class C's in that vinatge. They have better than the average frame rail extensions.
ANY Class C that you would do well with some bracing and the best hitch you can afford.
96zjlimited
06-12-2006, 06:27 PM
I think a WD hitch would make a huge difference in this case
Travis Waldher
06-12-2006, 09:39 PM
You won't find a Class C wit a rating higher than 5,000lbs. MOST have a rating of at most 3,500lbs and I wouldn't trust any Class C over that, regardless of what the manufacturer said.
The RV industry is largely unregulated and doesn't necessarily sell a "safe" product.
If I were to use a Class C, I would get a good receiver then reinforce the frame from in front of the rear axle all the way to the back. And yes, go with a WD setup.
Dhorn33
06-13-2006, 09:21 AM
Doesn't anyone on here use a class C as a tow rig/camper? Any real world experience or pics of the beefed up rear frame extensions for towing? Keep it coming guys - thanks!
Azrckcrawler
06-13-2006, 09:48 AM
Doesn't anyone on here use a class C as a tow rig/camper? Any real world experience or pics of the beefed up rear frame extensions for towing? Keep it coming guys - thanks!
I just bought one but you are asking about older models. I steered clear of the older stuff for a couple of reasons, one being the 3.5k hitches they all had. Every 04+ model we looked at had a 5k hitch. I would also reccomend loading your coach and trailer smarter before trying a WD hitch on a class C. Think about the leverage you will put on the frame extension and even if you do build a beefy enough frame extension you are just adding a lot of weight behind the rear axle compounding the problem.
I plan on shifting my rig back on my trailer to minimize tongue weight (500lbs max according to my hitch) and I load heavy camping gear as far forward as possible in the coach (for example, spare water/drinks go in the storage compartments right behind the cab). The rear basement storage is only used for bulky lightweight items like tarps, camp chairs and spare sleeping bags.
I had to do the same routine for my old Toyhauler, once I found the sweet spot for all my usual cargo the trailer towed real nice at any speed.
Hottrod81
06-13-2006, 11:13 AM
I just bought one but you are asking about older models. I steered clear of the older stuff for a couple of reasons, one being the 3.5k hitches they all had. Every 04+ model we looked at had a 5k hitch. I would also reccomend loading your coach and trailer smarter before trying a WD hitch on a class C. Think about the leverage you will put on the frame extension and even if you do build a beefy enough frame extension you are just adding a lot of weight behind the rear axle compounding the problem.
I plan on shifting my rig back on my trailer to minimize tongue weight (500lbs max according to my hitch) and I load heavy camping gear as far forward as possible in the coach (for example, spare water/drinks go in the storage compartments right behind the cab). The rear basement storage is only used for bulky lightweight items like tarps, camp chairs and spare sleeping bags.
I had to do the same routine for my old Toyhauler, once I found the sweet spot for all my usual cargo the trailer towed real nice at any speed.
X2. I also put my rig farther back on the trailer centering it over the tandem axles and it pulls great. I also thinks it is how you distribute the weight.:smokin:
2Dogs
06-13-2006, 11:33 AM
Start looking at frames. Start looking for a local fab guy that will help you reinforce the frame (safest to just do it).
My old HR did not have the tag axle but had the strongest frame I have ever seen on a Class C. If you search you can find one with a tag axle like this:
http://www.johnsonrvsales.com/assets/inventoryImages/med/1987holiday01.jpg
Sorry for the bad pic
JHarsany
06-13-2006, 02:50 PM
My parents had an '88 EMC class c w/ the 460/c6 until last year (bought new). My dad and I towed my YJ on a trailer all over the place with it and never had any problems. I never really looked under it to check out the frame, but it had a pretty beefy hitch that was installed aftermarket. My parents even towed a full size bronco on a trailer a few times and never had any problems.
Dhorn33
06-13-2006, 03:17 PM
Thanks guys. I think we will be looking at a 1990 Mallard Sprinter 26' with a 460 this weekend. It has 52k miles and the price is $8500. I will let you know how it goes.
Hottrod81
06-13-2006, 03:21 PM
Good luck:D
SWOhioJeepDude
06-29-2006, 07:56 AM
Sorry for the newbie question but what is a WD setup?
SanDiegoCJ
06-29-2006, 08:24 AM
Sorry for the newbie question but what is a WD setup?
When you're discussing hitches "WD" = Weight Distribution hitches.
Examples: http://www.hitchesonline.com/wd_main.htm
SWOhioJeepDude
06-29-2006, 08:36 AM
That's interesting, I've never seen that before.
I am also considering a Class C RV. I would be pulling a CJ-7 and Trailer. Would it be more preferable to go Chevy V8 or Ford V10? I've heard that in the RV's there isn't a big difference between the gas and deisel, any comments about that?
ZukIzzy
06-29-2006, 09:02 AM
That's interesting, I've never seen that before.
I am also considering a Class C RV. I would be pulling a CJ-7 and Trailer. Would it be more preferable to go Chevy V8 or Ford V10? I've heard that in the RV's there isn't a big difference between the gas and deisel, any comments about that?
Well you heard wrong. the new gas rigs are better than ever but they just build them heavier and you get the same result. If you are looking for a rig under $100k then go gas and don't look too hard at the fuel bill. also keep in the right lane while towing. If you are looking for a great all around motorhome then Diesel pushers are the thing to get. better coach work more room omre power easier to drive. I have a 34foot ford chassi with a v10 and it does OK but I have to pay at the pump and when towwing and I do tow 2 tigs on a 26 foot trailer. my next one will be a pusher around 40 feet and atl least a c7 or cummins big block.
For starter motor homes a good quality c class will suite you fine and tow mostly what you need. Make sure it is FI and the newer the better. be careful the RV industry was not regulated to switch from Carbs to FI so some of coaches had carbs long after auto ind had gone FI.
Wayne
tsrcj7
01-06-2008, 08:14 AM
I have a 2001 Bandit Class C motorhome built on the Dodge chassis. It's powered by the 5.9 diesel and 4 speed auto. It was a little underpowered in stock form, but I beefed it up with the Banks Power Pack and a billet torque converter and valve body mods to keep the tranny alive. My motorhome is fairly heavy, 14000 empty, and I tow an 18ft trailer with my 81 cj7 on it. The jeep weighs 4300 pounds. I have a class 5 hitch that was factory installed along with airbags for the rear suspension. All loaded up I have an over the road weight of nearly 21000 pounds and it tows great!! No problem with stopping or keeping up with traffic at 65-70mph. The rear frame extensions on mine are beefy and are among the largest I've seen on a class c. I have about 28000 total in my motorhome including purchase and mods. Keep looking for the right motorhome, there are class c's out there that will ge tthe job done and not break the bank!!!
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