Skip this part if you must:
Hi, I'm new here. I joined this site on the advice of a fellow member. For the past several years I have been big into the world of lowered trucks but am now looking for a 4x4 and I have lots of questions. This is the first of what I'm sure will be many. I tried looking but there is no search button. I'm sorry if this question has been asked before.

My Main Question:
For anyone here who knows anything about late 80's Ford F250's Or Ford 4x4 suspensions in general for that matter I am looking for some help. I'm trying to find some information on their "Twin Traction Beam" (TTB) front axle system. I'm looking to buy an off road toy and have been looking at 88-95 Chevys for the longest time but just now started looking at Fords as well. I am wondering if these "TTB" systems are any good. I know a solid front axle is the best way to go in off roading but if these are any good for mild mudding then I may be ok with this. I'm looking to learn any and everything I can. I have been and am continuing to search for information online but any insite or direction I can get from anyone here would be great too. Thanks.

-Bryan

for searching, read the sticky thread at the top of every forum.

As for ford TTB, it is a fair system, pretty strong for what it is and if you have the cash, it can be built to be very strong. It defenitely outperforms chevy IFS and I have run some pretty large tires on an open ford TTB D44 and had it survive with absolutely no breakage in 3 years of trails and muddy michigan wheeling. I imagine it has it's own set of troubles when used in the rocks, but what D44 doesn't?

Later,
Jason

Why bother? Get a 77 to 79 and that way you will already have a solid axle.

Why bother? Get a 77 to 79 and that way you will already have a solid axle.
My main reason is that I want something "somewhat" late model. Like 1980's.

they are ok and will work for mud and trails. if you get into it though that ttb will end up in a heap in front of the shop.:D

The Ford TTBs are far more durable than many give them credit for (they are a HP Dana44 after all, which is the same axle that's often raved about in the '77-'79 Fords). It'll hold to 35" tires no problem if you exercise some judgement on when to use the stupid pedal, and has standard servicable wheelbearings identical to the earlier D44s.

You don't need tons of $$$ to build one, you just need to know what works, and what doesn't. The biggest thing is wading through all the outdated liftkit junk out there. Many screw the steering all to shit and have flimsy brackets.
The Skyjacker Class II kits seem to be the most durable of any I've looked at.


I would avoid the F-250s though if you're building it for offroad use. They use leafs, which suck on a TTB (the leaf wants to move straight up/down, whereas the axle swings in an arc, which binds with more than just a few inches of flex). I'd look at an F-150 (or a fullsize Bronco) if you want to build a TTB truck, or move up to a F-350, which comes with a leaf-sprung straightaxle D60 ('86up). The 60 is much stronger than any D44 stuff as well.

Thanks! You guys are being a really big help.

they are the same as a solid 44 but with 1 more u-joint when it comes to strength. Most common issues are trashing teh wheel bearings or breaking teh small slip shaft. With a little trick that can be made reapairable in 5 mins on teh trail.

I thrash mine with 35's and a ls up front only have broken one shaft and trashed some wheel bearings. Just don't floor it and turn like any axle

The TIB/TTB setup is pretty strong, i've run a few rides off-road, and have few problems with it. Like 85f150 says, go easy, don't drop the clutch, and squirm like there's no tomorrow, because you will break something. if you have the money & are lucky enough, try to find a 3/4 or full 1-ton truck. They have the solid axle :)

-Jeff

If you decide to go with a TTB truck make sure you get one of those lifetime alignment deals from your local tire shop because thats one thing about TTB that sucks.

i own a 1993 F-250 that is now my tow rig, but before that it had alot of time getting wheeled. The only problem that I have with mt ttb is the front leaf sping shackle, I have wasted at least 5 of these things. Luckily they are only 25-30 dollars from the dealer. I have had no luck finding any aftermarket shackles for these things. Other than that it has been a rock solid front end for what I did with it. I live by pismo beach so alot of the wheeling has been in the sand, that is where I keep wasting shackles, But have done quite a bit of trail wheeling with it also. Because of the forward shackle on the f-250 the ride can be a bit harsh.

I your dead set on going with a late model truck the ford TTB is alot better than the Chevy IFS...Lifts are a 3rd of the price...The suspension actually functions..They are alot easier to work on...Basically what I'm getting at is they have potential...With a Chevy IFS your just polishing a turd!! And I'm not just saying that 'cause I'm a Ford guy....

ttb really is a reliable system......if you learn how to work on it. shop repairs on these can add up quickly. get a hub socket, a dentist pick, and a BFH and you can do about anything on it fairly easily. one thing that you will get out if it is you will be a pro at packing wheel bearings. i posted a thread a while back that details how to take the thing apart when i tore into mine for the first time. has some good info you should check out to see how they are assembled.

I had the 6" Skyjacker class II lift on mine. I believe it is one of the strongest kits on the market. I had very little trouble with the TTB D44, but I had a TREMENDOUS amount of trouble with alignment. Anything above a small to medium size hit on the front tire, and it was out. After almost every offroad trip I had to align my front tires after pulling off the trail before I could drive it home. I use to carry a tape measure and two poles, then I got slack and just started doing it by sight and feel. The stock tie rod and drag link are very weak.

DK

i got an 1983 full size bronco. the TTB can be picky so do as listed get a lifetime alignment or learn it and do your self or mix the two.
if you are going too lift it then use good parts. cheap lifts have cheap parts. i broken 2 rough and tuff country TTB drop mounts. I finall got smart and got a skyjacker class II lift.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/239231/fullsize/dropsinstalled.jpg (http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=239231&original=1)
i on the other end too as i got 40X17 tires and so far no broken parts but i been carefull.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/324731/fullsize/newlightsfront.jpg (http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=324731&original=1)
mike

another problem i've heard of and seen on trucks is camber issues. make sure whoever installs your lift knows how to adjust the camber on that truck. if not you will wear the sidewalls off

Well, you have quite a few options here. If you are really into having things "your way" and like standing out, a solid axle swap(if done economically) wont cost much more than a good sized lift for a TTB truck, and is a heck of a lot more solid. Since you will already have a fullsize truck, you dont really have to worry about cutting down axles or finding one that will fit, and thats half the battle. If you plan on nothing bigger than 35" tires with an agressive right foot, the rear axle should be just fine. If you want to do some moderate wheeling with 35" or so tires, and lockers might be in your future-a solid axle swap will more than pay for itself in the years to come.