Is a 1994 XJ AW4 transmission a good choice for a 3-speed to 4-speed swap??

I know It will bolt up to the I6 but i'm conserned about the year of the tranny. and the other items I will need from the XJ to make this work.

According to AEV who is doing this swap the Tranny needs to be out of a 98 or newer XJ because the TCU has to be compatable with the TJ diagnostic computer.
I'm in the middle of getting the parts together. Hopefully this will be done next month.
Scratch

It was my understanding the the TCU from 90 and later AW-4's was integral to the Engine CPU?

I hope your not right grendal!
I was told other wise. I still need to get a wiring diagram for the 2001 XJ
Scratch

Well, I know for certain the earlier Renix injected Cherokees had an Aw-4 with it's own Tranny controller.

I believe the later MPFI ones have an integral TCU.

Just got back from the dealer. The 2001 has it's own TCU. the part number is 56041386.
Also went to the local tranny shop and got the trans wiring diagram from them. They confirmed the seperate TCU.
Scratch

good deal. How does it tie into the Main computer?

I don't have a good enough scematic of the XJ yet. I'm wondering if the cliltons manuals would be ok for this or if I need to spend the big bucks to get the FSM. I hope not.
I have a scematic from a 91 and it doesn't look that hard. I'm sure they have changed quite a bit since then.
I'm starting to get excited.
Scratch

GRendal,
I've started the conversion.
How did you get the pilot bearing out of the end of the crank shaft? Is there a bearing or something like that for the auto or is it just left empty?
Thanks
Scratch
BTw you can email me at scratch@thebassetts.us

Scratch - StealthTJ and I just finished - hours ago - swapping his manual to an auto (3-speed from a '97 TJ). The pilot bearing and the "spacer" must be removed from the crank, at least in his situation. With the spacer in place, the converter wouldn't seat against the flex plate.

We ended up using a BFAC (big ****ing air chisel) to remove the spacer (had to be cut in two places). Others had suggested using a torch to heat the spacer until it was cherry red, then letting it cool, or making a couple spot welds and letting it cool - this is supposed to cause it to shrink a little. Personally, I didn't feel comfortable putting that much heat on the crank.

Here are links to a pic with the spacer in place, and a couple after it was removed....so you can see what you're dealing with:;)

http://community.webshots.com/photo/13956804/45014385fZYjiB

http://community.webshots.com/photo/13956804/45903650wKslDT

http://community.webshots.com/photo/13956804/45904401SslqWh

(If the links don't work, go to the last three photos of the "Miscellaneous" album here: http://community.webshots.com/user/mdanbrooks ).

Good luck.:p

I've been collecting parts for my swap. Based on the schematic for the computer I have, the only place I have to link the 2 computers looks like on the Throttle Position Sensor, and looks like the Crank position sensor may also need to be added in.

Do all (XJ/YJ/TJ's) 4.0's have the same voltage supplied to these sensors?
Thanks.

Hybrid
different years use different voltages. Some of the older ones used 5 volts.
I think the newer ones are 12 volts. Including some of the trans computers.
Dan thanks for the photos and the info.
BTW I'm having a blast and documanting everything for a future web page.
Scratch

Hey dan is the spacer around where the bearing used to be?
Any pictures after the spacer was out of the crank?
I had no idea there was a spacer there. I think my torque converter will fit in there with the bearing gone but with the spacer still there. I'll have to see.
Great something else
Hybrid, what year are you putting the trans into? If it is a TJ you might want to stick with a 98 or newer AW4 and controller. When I was doing my research, this is what I was told a few times.
Thanks
Scratch;)

I don't have a pic of the crank after the spacer was removed. The pilot bearing actually fit into the spacer, which fit into the crank...don't ask me why Chrysler decided to do it this way - I've never seen anything like this in Fords or Chevys.:confused:

The first pic is of the crankshaft/spacer after the bearing was removed, but with the spacer in place. It's kinda hard to tell from the pic, but the spacer is recessed about 1/4" into the crank. Unfortunately, this is about 1/4"-1/2" less than the converter pilot needs to allow the converter to fit propertly against the flex plate.

Look at the diameter of the pilot on the converter - if it's small (like the outside diameter of the pilot bearing, which can be removed with a inside two-jaw puller) then you should be fine. If it's larger, then you will likely have to remove the spacer.

I wish I had taken more pics with my camera so I could show it better. Hopefully the description will help a little....

Again, this all applies to the TF-999 trans swap. I would guess that the AW4 would be the same, but without looking at the converter I can't say for sure.

Dan, how long was the whole conversion process? How many hours do you think you've got into it?
Are you guys happy with the results?
Hybrid,
I think there are a few more places you need to tie into the PCU.
If you want I could send you my TCU connector pin out and all my notes on where to connect to.
Scratch

We probably have about 30 hours in the swap. If we had known about the spacer ahead of time and the couple parts we were lacking we could have had it easily done within a weekend. (But remember - we swapped the 3-speed auto, so there was little wiring that had to be dealt with. All we had to do was wire in a switch for the converter lock-up, and swap plugs for the back-up light switch. By the sound of it, the AW4 will be much more involved.)

So far everything seems to be working great. We do need to mess with the TC linkage a little because it's binding, but that may be as simple as a different bellcrank or linkage rod being used between the manual and auto. The trans has stayed right around 160*, and other than the switch on the dash for the converter you can't tell it didn't come with the auto. We may end up swapping transfer cases because he has the 4:1, and the auto really wants to overpower the brakes in 1st gear/4-low.

Why was the switch nessary? Do you have to hit the switch everytime the rans shifts?
What I'm finding is that the the tj is wired for both an auto and a manual. There are jumpers and by passes for either the auto or manual.
You've made me curious to look at the manual and see if I can figure it out.
Please explain how the switch works.
I was thinking of using a die grinder for the spacer. Do you think that will work?
Scratch

The switch is to "lock" the converter, which is normally controlled by the computer. The TJ did have the plug on the harness for the converter lockup, but - my understanding anyway - the computer itself is different. Fred will just flip the switch once he hits "cruise" speed. According to the people Fred spoke with before we did the swap, not locking the converter at freeway speeds will damage the transmission pretty quickly (I'm guessing it generates more heat, but hey, that's just a guess....).

Basically, the switch is wired to activate the solenoid in the valve body - we ran one wire from the plug to ground, one to the switch, and tapped into a 12-volt ignition hot wire.

The die grinder will work....eventually. If you don't have access to an air chisel, you might try drilling two holes in the spacer opposite each other, and then tapping them. Put a couple long bolts in the holes and use a steering wheel-type puller to remove it. That actually might even be better than the air chisel....

I used a dremal and the air chisel to get it out. What a pain.! Even after it was broke twice it didn't want to come out.
Dan, What year is the jeep you guys did the swap in?
It seems that the tail shaft on the AW4 isn't slpined as high up the shaft as the AX15. The TC is held of the Trans by about 5/8 of an inch. I might have to trim the input shaft of the 231 to fit the trans. This would leave only about 1.5 inches of engaged spline. I could also get the orginal TC that was attached to this trans but it would still have about the same amount slined.
It seems there is a difference the the 231 between the TJ and the XJ or 97 to 2001.
Anyone have a solution?
Scratch

We did the swap in a '98 TJ.

Can't help on the input shaft problem - sounds different than what we encountered. All we had to do was install a seal extension from Tera Flex and it went together fine. If you can get the TC that was originally bolted to the AW4 it should be fine.

Might want to call Advance Adapters or AEV and see if they can give you some ideas - they seem to know about all the problems that can pop up with this stuff.

writeup---------writeup---------please someone out there do a writeup for this, I also have a 1998 TJ and want the AW4

contact Stu Olsen and he will put it on his web site

ok here is the one problem I've found.
There are 2 sizes of input shafts for the 231. I need to have the input shaft machined off about 7/8 of an inch. Right now the TC is bottoming out on the splines of the AW4.
I can get the TC that came off the AW4 originally or have my input shaft cut down. I'm leaning toward cutting mine down. It would be alot cheaper.
Other than that everything is going very easy.
Scratch

I worked several hours yesterday on her and her sex change is complete. He no longer has a stick, so I quess it’s a she now. She is now sporting an AW4 from a 2001 XJ. Maybe I should call here XTJ.

I finished around 7:00 last night, so after a quick dip in the pool (it was 104) we took her out for a drive. We had a hard time getting around the corner. The sucker wouldn’t shift up or down on its own. Then it hit me! I left the trans computer on the work bench. A quick u turn and 5 minutes later we were on our way to get ice cream.

It has very good acceleration and shifts great. I’ll play with it a little more after work today. The drive shaft is real close to complete compression. I’ve only got about an inch, so I ‘m kind of babying her. I’m hoping that the LA lift I’ll start to install next week will make up for that. If not it is off to the driveline shop.

I took lots of pictures. Eventually I put up a web page showing just how it was done for anyone interested.

And yes, yes I do put my foot on the clutch( that is no longer there) every time I stop.

Scratch

BTW I posted this to both the threads for those following one or the other.