On its maiden voyage to test my ARB comrpessor install everything kicked ass on the trail. The locker (rear) locked, unlocked, and performed with no problems till about halfway through. With the system totally off, I clicked my compressor switch on and then my locker switch on and the comp just kept cycling without locking. I heard a leak near the comp under the hood but when went I checked my fittings/line I discovered that the soleniod was just venting continuously.

The compressor is a brand new ARB mini. Would an obstruction in the diff hardline/seals be causing the comp to cycle? Bad diff seal? I also went through some unavoidible water/mud crossings. Would that cause any of the symptons if the comp drank water(relocation of intake filter in future)? When I click on the compressor switch it will charge for a few seconds and then stop, which if I remember correctly is what it is suppose to do, but as soon as I engage the locker switch it will start cycling continuously. If I turn the locker engagement switch off it will stop cycling.

Im thinking that it might need a new seal in the diff. What do you guys think? I appreciate any input.

I think you have a bad solenoid, or maybe got some junk in it that is holding it open, maybe during your water crossing. Try cycling it and if that doesn't work, replace it and see what happens. Typically if you have bad ARB O-rings inside the diff, it will show up as a blown axle seal or venting from the diff vent.

Thanks for the response. How would I know if it was venting from the diff vent? I know where it is and that it runs straight up, I just dont know where it vents to if that doesnt sound too retarded. Ill start looking for a new soleniod I think I saw a cheap-o-sole write-up on Quadratec with some part#s.

Thanks again for your input.....if anyone else has an idea hit it up

If it is venting through the diff vent, you'll know...there'll be a significant audible air release noise coming from the vent whenever the lock is engaged.

. Mac Valves, Inc. of Wixom, MI sells a similar assembly that will work just as well, and they go for only $17 each!(made in USA) The part number is 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA. Mac Valves' southwest distributor; Fiero Fluid Power, Inc. of Arvada, CO. Their toll-free number is 1-800-638-0920. In addition to removing the "air in" and "air out" fittings from your ARB solenoid, you will also have to cut off the wiring harness connector and solder it to the Mac Valve wires (it doesn't matter which wire goes to which). You can purchase ($1) a little muffler for the release port to protect it from dirt.

. Mac Valves, Inc. of Wixom, MI sells a similar assembly that will work just as well, and they go for only $17 each!(made in USA) The part number is 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA. Mac Valves' southwest distributor; Fiero Fluid Power, Inc. of Arvada, CO. Their toll-free number is 1-800-638-0920. In addition to removing the "air in" and "air out" fittings from your ARB solenoid, you will also have to cut off the wiring harness connector and solder it to the Mac Valve wires (it doesn't matter which wire goes to which). You can purchase ($1) a little muffler for the release port to protect it from dirt.

X2, running teh mac valves here with no issues. Teh only noticeable difference is mine do not do the "pshhhhhh" sound when the air is released, which is not a biggie. Works very well!!

I know this sounds stupid but make sure the solenoid is on the right direction. I had one leak for a while and when i called arb they told me to check that. I checked it, and it was on the right direction, but for some reason it stoped leaking without me doing anything. If you think something is wrong with the solenoid give arb a call, they are awesome with waranties:D .