sami-e brake pic

[onetoncv]

all the options are on the general board- i'm still working out the blue print for mass buy on the rotors and such- but here's my employee's hard work ( bitchen job erik!) Jess :D

[scwafish]

Cool!

[Rudezuk]

Nice Jess!!! I bought one of those last year from Spidertrax....
Hooks into the stock ebrake cable, and works pretty damn well!

Oh by the way, Dlines turned out perfect on the SAS 4 runner!!!

[okcrawler]

Wait a minute...... :eek:

What is that yoke! That looks like a 1310 or larger joint, and directly onto the splines of a Sami case? Have you made the disc mount into/on the yoke?

What's the story there? :confused: :confused:

[dangerber]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48386

:D

[onetoncv]

its a late modl flange i used to addapt it - direct bolt on no addapters- :D

[UZI 9mm]

i wonder if the caliper HAS to be located on the bottom? is there enough clearance at the lowest part, for belly armour to tuck up as high as it can, and not lose too much ground clearance?
i like the idea of a swiss cheesed rotor:D less rotating mass for something that will be constantly spinning and eating up gerbil power.

[Joe_W]

Help a newbie to Sammi's out and explain a few things for me. Whats the advantage over the regukar e-brake (apart from mine not working and they sound like a bitch to adjust). What type of price range are we talking about? And will it work with the older model (87) Sammi's?

[Rudezuk]

I cant speak for Jess's but the way mine works is that it is mouted on to the side, not on the bottom...And it is a manual adjustment with a screw.

The reason for this is if you swap your axles from the crappy stock ones, this is a very good solution for an ebrake!

Im guessing 2-300 range for the price??

[okcrawler]

Maybe it's the picture or my MS blurred eyes, but I just don't see a flange yoke there. It still looks like a splined yoke....

It's also the first I've seen of a U-bolt flange on Samurai.

But, if you say so... Looks cool. :)

Personally, I can't take the ground clearance loss. I raised my t-case 1/2", built a new skid and it was a night and day difference!

However, let me throw out a suggestion.... How about somone run the input shaft run out the back of the case. Then put a disc there. With 5:1 or 6:1 gear reduction, the disk could be itty-bitty and still have plenty of holding power!!!! NO ground clearance loss. Hummmm.......

[UZI 9mm]

Originally posted by Mitsuzu
Help a newbie to Sammi's out and explain a few things for me. Whats the advantage over the regukar e-brake (apart from mine not working and they sound like a bitch to adjust). What type of price range are we talking about? And will it work with the older model (87) Sammi's?

when most guys do the rear disc brake conversion, they are left without any e-brake, because usually the conversion just uses stock front calipers, with homemade brackets or bought brackets.
this has no provision for the legally required (if daily driver) or possible safety requirement (competition/serious trail rig) of an E-brake.

price range i dunno.

yes, providing the flanges are of the "larger" type.

[UZI 9mm]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by okcrawler
[B]Maybe it's the picture or my MS blurred eyes, but I just don't see a flange yoke there. It still looks like a splined yoke....

It's also the first I've seen of a U-bolt flange on Samurai.

"all the options are on the general board"
if you go to the Sammi E-brake post on the general board, Jesse explains the yoke stuff in the first few sentences.

"...the combinations are in this pic"
:)

ps- it's on "page two" now.

[dangerber]

Originally posted by UZI 9mm
[QUOTE]Originally posted by okcrawler
[B]Maybe it's the picture or my MS blurred eyes, but I just don't see a flange yoke there. It still looks like a splined yoke....

It's also the first I've seen of a U-bolt flange on Samurai.

"all the options are on the general board"
if you go to the Sammi E-brake post on the general board, Jesse explains the yoke stuff in the first few sentences.

"...the combinations are in this pic"
:)

ps- it's on "page two" now.

Just click the link I posted above, it takes you to the post on the gen4x4 board. :D

[okcrawler]

Originally posted by dangerber
Just click the link I posted above, it takes you to the post on the gen4x4 board. :D

Been there - done that 9 post's ago....
Answered one question, was not worth editing my post..

1310 c/v or non- 34 degree's capable - or toyota c/v and non c/v 32 degree c/v- and non c/v's.....

It's not a big deal anyway. I just saw a different yoke solution, and was curious... Some day I may want to go 1310 on both ends (the Neapco flange yoke is kinda expensive)... :p A spline yoke would be a nicer option for carrying a spare shaft. Cap u-bolts are quicker and easier to remove than a flange, and flangless means one less item needed on the spare shaft. :)

It's got me curious enought that I'm gonna check spline dimmensions tonight and see if there is a penion yoke that might fit.... The rear output does not need a seal surface, Hummmm, I see possibilities here..... :rasta:


- I beleive UZI 9mm saw what I'm talking about..... -

[TNToy]

I've always liked how t-case brakes get multiplied by the R&P for holding power. Plus it seems like it would be a little more 'directly' connected to the front tires than the rear brakes are when you're in 4WD.

I bet he put the caliper on the bottom both because that was the easiest place to make room for it, and if someone doesn't have a big enough skidplate, it becomes one, I guess...

About adjustment, it shouldn't be too bad. It's not like the pads will wear at all, really. Since you only use this to HOLD postion, not stop your rig.

[onetoncv]

its a flange its a flange - really a flange take my word for it- the neapco flange shown in the pic is just an idea of using the 1310 c/v on rigs with angle problems on the rear shaft- the rotor attaches from the back side- i'll see if i can get a side view:D Jess- the splines you see are the output shaft splines there's no nut on it hehe-

[UZI 9mm]

those Ok. boys are a suspicious lot, ain't they?
hard sell, Jess:flipoff2:



ps- BTW: oh great, thanks a lot. now you've got me grubbing around under my rig getting dried mud and crap in my eyes as i scrape off the back surface of my transfer case, looking lustfully at the new mounting place for a D/S E-brake. bastards.:flipoff2:

[okcrawler]

Originally posted by onetoncv
its a flange its a flange - really a flange take my word for it- the neapco flange shown in the pic is just an idea of using the 1310 c/v on rigs with angle problems on the rear shaft- the rotor attaches from the back side- i'll see if i can get a side view:D Jess- the splines you see are the output shaft splines there's no nut on it hehe-

Well Ok... If you promise you are not holding out on us.... :D :D :D

I still like the idea of a splined yoke, but I think we are out of luck finding an off the shelf cross. The T-case outs are 26 spline (just like the rear axles, sidegears, pinion, etc..), but the only US common Diffs with 26 spline pinions are Dana (30,35,44). I checked a 44 last night and the dia is different. Probably some Jap metric spline DIA on the Sami.... Oh well.... :( I'll poke around at a friend's shop this weekend and see if I stumble into something else.....

Now are you sure...... :D :D Just kidding... :p

[onetoncv]

hehe- the dana 44 end yoke is close but not fitty- Jess:D