Drive shaft on Spring over

[nooblet]

Hey guys, I am springing over my 79 SII in the near future and I was wondering if I am going to need to extend/shorten the Drive shafts? The scout is a 345/t18c?/d20/D44's. I have done some reading on this subject here and on BB and so far what I have read has not covered this part of the spring over. Also I was wondering if anyone knows where you can buy a spring perch that will fit on the passenger side housing on the front axle once you grind it down? Or is that a fab only perch? Thanks in advance for the info and flaming!

[Bill usn-1]

Hey guys, I am springing over my 79 SII in the near future and I was wondering if I am going to need to extend/shorten the Drive shafts? The scout is a 345/t18c?/d20/D44's. I have done some reading on this subject here and on BB and so far what I have read has not covered this part of the spring over. Also I was wondering if anyone knows where you can buy a spring perch that will fit on the passenger side housing on the front axle once you grind it down? Or is that a fab only perch? Thanks in advance for the info and flaming!


I would recommend a little more searching and reading if those questions weren't answered during your first search!! You did not find the right threads.

[ih4ever]

longer drivelines... your lifting your truck up so the axles are futher down arnt they??

grind the perch flat enough (which you should) it should be the same as the other side right??? so answer this... what perch do you plan on running on the other side??

ans: should be the same for both sides... scout 2in wide perches...

[uglyscout]

longer drivelines... your lifting your truck up so the axles are futher down arnt they??




I say Yes and No to longer driveshafts.

I needed a longer rear shaft - as do about 95% of people that do a rear SOA.

On the front I needed a Shoter driveshaft as I rotated my pinion angle up for a CV shaft but retained the stock non-CV shaft. With the pinion up it decreased the overall distance that the driveshaft needed to cover. If I had not shortened the front I am pretty sure on full compression I could have split op the front output or trashed the shaft or both.


Perches -- SEARCH :shaking:

[Ben W]

Anything over 4" pudding on a steak.

[larboc@hotmail.com]

the driveshafts from a 72-77 chevy 4x4 blazer will work great for your 100" application. The rear shaft will bolt in. the front will require a different yoke to adapt to the cv style output yoke of the chevy to the dana 20. both are the correct length stock.

Disclaimer- I am in the process of doing this but have not done it yet. I have done alot of footwork and measuring and so far see no reason for it not to work. by this weekend I will have the chev rear shaft in so I'll confirm this works then.

but yea, BB has alot of information on this. so far I have only seen people using bronco shafts though, nobody has written up the use of chev shafts so far that I have seen.

[larboc@hotmail.com]

OK, just bolted up rear shaft, works Grrrreat! perfect swap. waiting on bronco output yoke to see about front though. I'll get some pics up sometime.

[RustoleumWhite]

I usually do the work, then take measurements have have a shaft built to the specs of MY rig.


But hey, were's the fun in that. Good recent tech about the Chevy Blazer shaft though. My rear shaft is actually a Chevy Short-Box unit that I picked up at a swap meet and had shortend to the length I needs. Larger Diamete, and hence stronger than the stock unit, and its much cheaper to have a shaft shortend than lengthed.

My front shaft was made in my garage :D


as for the perch. Like was said. Search. You can make it, grind it in, or buy one and modify it to what you need. I prefer GM housings for this exact reason. The perch is already there, just needs to be shimed to you specific needs. Buy or build stout perches though. The cheap ones *can* bend/fold when things get ugly :D:D

[nooblet]

Thanks for the info on the blazer shafts, I'll have to hunt those down for sure. I've just decided to buy some rear perches and make the front perches. I'm going to get the axles sprung over and bolt them back up to the scout, then find out what I need from there. Thanks for the info guys.

P.S. Bill, I keep hearing about this great thread you made on SOAing a scout, but I can't find it, anyone have a link? Thanks.

[Bill usn-1]

Go to www.justih.org and do an advanced search for SOA and my user name.
You could probably do it on the BB also. I'm sure there is a link to it there.

Or if you look at the FAQ at the top here for any of my other links on the justih board, I have internal links on my threads there!

And it's just 1 way of many to do a SOA....on a budget!!!!!

[uglyscout]

My front shaft was made in my garage :D



Ditto. I am currently running a cut down Scout II rear shaft as my front shaft. Home brewed with - just a touch of wabble - in my garage. I've got a manual so clearance was not an issue with the bigger tube.

[Rock Tractor]

I'm running a square tube front with a CV now. But I used to just find the cherokees at PNP, they have a CV front that is longer and I'd just cut them down, reweld it, and use them. When you cut it down, do it at the CV.

[justscoutin]

what year of cherokee do you get?

[Rock Tractor]

90's

[nooblet]

Thanks Bill, I found the build up thread on justih. I searched on that forum before I made this post and didn't find that thread (I suck at search engines). I love the z-link you made out of the draglink on that build up, I'm going to have to try that!

[Mechanos]

I'll second the square tube front shaft. A ton of slip length and hella-strong. 1/4" wall inside of 1/4" wall. I've had the entire weight of the front end of my SII supported by shaft.... no dents, no twisted driveline as a result of dents or dings... it's one tough son of bitch. I'm just using std yokes at both ends even though I have the front pinion rotated up. I've got another CV sitting around here that I may swap on there (and the yoke for the t-case output) but I doubt I'll do it. When the 1-ton axles go under it, I'm planning on upgrading the d-shafts to 1350 series.

[Bill usn-1]

Thanks Bill, I found the build up thread on justih. I searched on that forum before I made this post and didn't find that thread (I suck at search engines). I love the z-link you made out of the draglink on that build up, I'm going to have to try that!

Be very careful using the "Z-link" word on this board!!!:)

Your better off just telling everyone you have highsteer.:cool2:
Trust me.

[RustoleumWhite]

Square tube and CV?!?! :wtf:


I'm sure it works, but why the CV?? The CV it to cancel out the vibrations you get with the "non equal but opposite" u-joint angles you get when you point the pinion at the t-case... but with a square shafts I see vibration city :eek:

Seems a standard joint on both ends would have been cheaper (well, JY shaft the cost it irrelevant) and net you more angularity.



Personally I see square-tube shafts as getto... but lots of folks run them and like them.... who knows, you might even see me with one some day when I'm in a hurry :D. Sounds like something good to make for a spare (can be made to fit front or back, and compact)

[Mechanos]

Maybe a little ghetto.... but it's proven to be f'ing bombproof so far. For me, it's fuctional.

[tsm1mt]

If you do a straight SOA with stock springs and no shackle reversal and no extra lift and no shifting of the axles.. you'll need to length the front and rear shafts approx 1".

If you're running a slushbox, you can use a 4spd rear driveshaft.

For the front, get the shaft from a Dana 30 SII with the same trans.

OR if you run a stick, use a slushbox 'shaft up front. But in that case, you're stuck lengthening the rear driveshaft (or shortening something else).

[ih4ever]

But in that case, you're stuck lengthening the rear driveshaft (or shortening something else).

let me let you in on a little secret... usually more times then not... 98-100% it is CHEAPER to shorten a drive line then to legthen one... b/c to legthen means new tubing, to shorten it means to use the existin tube...
so what i did was i grabbed a t-all's rear driveline which is bigger (in diameter) than a scouts driveline, and shortened that to fit for the rear. then i took my original rear driveline and shorten that to fit in place of the original front driveline. bigger and stronger drivelines...

[larboc@hotmail.com]

update on front shaft from blazer. It will bolt up but must be shortend, at least for my application. A cut and turn results in the yokes being closer together. I got a bronco output from jeffs bronco graveyard. Everything bolts right in with shaft shortend and 727 pan ground for clearence. Rear still works fine as stock chev.

[lewd]

I'm running a square tube front with a CV now. But I used to just find the cherokees at PNP, they have a CV front that is longer and I'd just cut them down, reweld it, and use them. When you cut it down, do it at the CV.

Do you recall how much longer the 90's cherokee shafts are than stock Scout II (w/ manual)?

I just moved my axle 4" forward, ready for a new shaft treatment.

[binderbound]

Do you recall how much longer the 90's cherokee shafts are than stock Scout II (w/ manual)?

I just moved my axle 4" forward, ready for a new shaft treatment.
Your throwing money into that thing like its going out of style,and you want to junkyard a shaft?!spend the $350 and have an all new shaft with new spicer parts made up.axle and drive shafts are one of the things I like to buy new.I have bitten by used crap too many times.

Rig looks good BTW.

[fj40forlife]

You well need to get driveshaft. and as for the spring perch just cut it to size its not that hard

[Rock Tractor]

Do you recall how much longer the 90's cherokee shafts are than stock Scout II (w/ manual)?

I just moved my axle 4" forward, ready for a new shaft treatment.
I'll measure the one thats on my Cherokee today for ya.

[lewd]

Your throwing money into that thing like its going out of style,and you want to junkyard a shaft?!spend the $350 and have an all new shaft with new spicer parts made up.axle and drive shafts are one of the things I like to buy new.I have bitten by used crap too many times.

Rig looks good BTW.

yes - I know you are right, but I have taken a big hit with these past two mods - I'm only tempted if I can get lucky with a direct bolt on for now.
27" - 30" centerline caps.