Has anyone else had this problem. I put some 33 x 12.5 BFG AT's on craiger rims with a 4" back spacing (yes, I know it is a little much) on my 79' Traveler. The tie rod end comes very close to the tire on the drivers side, But there is plenty of room on the passenger side. Looks like I may have something bent. Comments.....
Drivers side
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/tdogamadog/MVC-008S.jpg
Close
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/tdogamadog/MVC-010S.jpg
Passenger side
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/tdogamadog/MVC-014S.jpg

Tie rod ends on my 79 Traveler are about 3/4 in. from the rims on both sides with 31 10.50's on wagon wheels. Your drivers side tie rod end looks closer than mine. It may just be the angle the picture is taken from but your tie rod end on the drivers side doesn't look like it's centered properly. Any chance it may be a worn end?

If it doesn't interfere with the wheel weights then I wouldn't sweat it. It may grind through the rubber boot and let your rod end dry out prematurely though, keep it greased.

I had this problem after going to high steer knuckles. I ended up using a 1/4" wheel spacer ...

It wore the boot right of the tie rod end, but only on one side.

You can adjust the stop bolts on the back side of the knuckle to reduce the turning radius till they no longer hit! if it only does it at full lock.
If it rubs all the time then I would go along with the spacers if your studs are long enough.

You can adjust the stop bolts on the back side of the knuckle to reduce the turning radius till they no longer hit! if it only does it at full lock.
If it rubs all the time then I would go along with the spacers if your studs are long enough.
Um Bill.... the TR and DL end are fixed to the knuckle... there for the stops would have no effect on the clearance issues he's having. I think you need one of those 'naps' I heard about.... :D


Spacers or a rim with less back spacing are your ticket. If you air those tires down they will rub.

Thanks I realize that.
My suggestion was if the TRE ball is not actually centered in the cup. So it has more material sticking out in one position.
EDIT...But I should have been clear if it rubbed going straight to use the spacers!!
I knew when i posted it, it would draw attention!!:D

I ran the late model dodge rims with 35's and all the offset was on the inside.
I ended up with 3/8" spacers just to keet them off the tie rods!!

Yea I figured a spacer was the way I would go, and as for the tie rod, it is brand new and has very over sized boot (which didnt help).

[If you air those tires down they will rub.]
I dont know. Ill bet they would a little worse. They have a lip that overlaps the rim to protect it from getting dammaged on rocks and stuff.

Here is what interested me... Why do I have about 5/8 " to 3/4" on the passenger side and only 1/8" to 1/4" on the drivers side. Youd think it would be the same.

Just had another thought.......

What if you used a spindle shim for adjusting camber with the thickest part forward to increase the the gap between the tierod and the tire.Then reset the toe when done!!
That would give you the clearance you need with out the need for spacers.

with 4 inch BS on 10inch rims my clearance was tight also, but it was the same on both sides. Id start taking stuff apart and measuring to find out what is bent or not assembeled properly. My clearance was about 3/8 of an inch IIRC. It might be easier to start off by moving the wheels from side to side, maybe its your wheel BS that is fawked up.

Not a bad idea Bill.


I could think of a few reasons why one side is closer than the other.. but all involve someone (previous) swapping parts that were "close" but not the same.


Personally, I think it might be a good idea to really start looking at things and see what. Could be a bent steering arm, who knows. I'd find out why and fix that before it (someday) comes back to bit you (BTDT).

Is it almost hitting the rim of the tire?? The picture really doesn't show.

Could be shot wheel bearings. :D

One side might have a camber shim. You could probably stack two shims together to cancel each other out and get the needed spacing.

Just had another thought.......

What if you used a spindle shim for adjusting camber with the thickest part forward to increase the the gap between the tierod and the tire.Then reset the toe when done!!
That would give you the clearance you need with out the need for spacers.
You know what, That may be the ticket right there. When I bought the rig, the guy I bought if from and realy screwed up a bunch of stuff. Had all kinds of things just half ass put together. For all I know. It could have a spindle shim in wrong right now. Ill check that this week. Thanks for the Idea:beer: