I'm building a rear 1/4 eliptic and I want to angle both of my upper and lower links. The problem I'm having is that one of the upper links is going to interfere with the rear drum brake on my offset t-case, so I was wondering what if I only used one upper link? I know it will all more stress to the other 3, but if they are stout enough why would this not work?

couldnt you use triangulated uppers, but not make them perfectly straight? like kinda a J shape so the uppers would like

" LJ " but both would rounded

are you saying have them mount to the inside or outside of the frame?
the problem is the upper passenger side frame mount

NERoktoy has a good idea
just make the upper link you want to get rid of, a "J" instead of straight. It can run parallel to the frame rail for a foot or so, then bend in to meet the pumpkin. I would NOT suggest running a missing link setup this way, you will lose a lot of lateral control over the axle with that design.

Dude, you need a panhard. That axles gonna be floppin all over without one. There is not enough trianglation with just one upper. However, the links in your picture look good location wise. Do you have side view???:fj:

Nope, it wont work.

The diff will move sidways as the pinion angle rotates up and down. If you think of the top link as going straight from the centre of the diff to the centre of the cross member you should be able to see that the diff can move sidways. Having the top link on an abgle just means that the diff will rotate to move sidways.

When you have multiple single links with heim joints at each end then you need a minimum of four links to stop the diff from moving. You carnt do it with three.

Sam

If you wanted to you could triangulate the upper arm and attach it off center, but if you did that you would have to flip the lower triangle so that the links converged on the axle. If this also causes a clearance problem you will need to run a three link suspension with a panhard bar. If you don't like that idea either you could always run a non symetrical rear suspension, but it would have non symetrical motion.

or maybe this

excuse my bad photo edit...

http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/qe3y.jpg

move the upper link to the lower link so it stays pointed at all times. Add a rear panhard link.

There was a threrad last week on this type of design with some really good pics by others.

FWIW:
I'm doing somthing ~similer using conventional leaf springs mounted high/forward and they should give me enough lateral (or ill be adding a link) Ill be getting mine off jack stands tomarrow and see.

my suspension side view (http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/r-suspension.jpg)

keep us posted...
-yag

Other suspension thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46272)


these topics seem to always spring up in other threads and are hard to search on....


-yag

Originally posted by zukipuke
or maybe this

excuse my bad photo edit...

http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/qe3y.jpg

move the upper link to the lower link so it stays pointed at all times. Add a rear panhard link.

There was a threrad last week on this type of design with some really good pics by others.

FWIW:
I'm doing somthing ~similer using conventional leaf springs mounted high/forward and they should give me enough lateral (or ill be adding a link) Ill be getting mine off jack stands tomarrow and see.

my suspension side view (http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/r-suspension.jpg)

keep us posted...
-yag

Now with that new drawing, if there are clearance problems with the lower links triangulating them less would not be a problem. Say maybe underneath the frame rails???

Just leave the uppers streight on either the inside or outside the frame rails.Theres no need to triangulate the uppers.

ericfilar@fatcity


P.S. panards are for rookies

I agree, leave the uppers straight and run them along the outsides of the framerails. It appears that you're trying to make it too complicated. The lower links will keep it centered, the uppers just have to keep it inline. Example: all the 3 link suspensions that have the "V" for the upper link, you just have yours in a different spot. Wanna see a picture of this, check out that Gossamer Jeep that was on the cover of JP several months ago that had the Avalanche $$$TITAN$$$ axles under it. It works.

Originally posted by FatCity
Just leave the uppers streight on either the inside or outside the frame rails.Theres no need to triangulate the uppers.

ericfilar@fatcity


P.S. panards are for rookies

I agree also.

Are the lower links a wishbone or two seperate links? This should work either way if the driveshaft will clear the lower links.

Originally posted by Mieser
Are the lower links a wishbone or two seperate links? This should work either way if the driveshaft will clear the lower links.

bind!
one locating link would fight other locating link

That should work if both the upper and lower are a wishbone link. there shouldn't be any bind.

later :jeep: