Ok I ground the shiznat out of the wagoneer caliper brackets I had and dry fitted them to the axle tube.

Since I dont know of anyone doing this around here I am running into some problems or maybe its just positive re-enforcment that I need.

In the searchs I have done on here it shows a guy named Jim Weed did the exact swap I am doing.

But, the page is gone off of Off-road.com, or at least it was last night and today so I cant go off of it either. If anyone has it saved that would be cool.

Heres is my delema, I am using scout rotors with the studs and mounting them on the back side of the rear scout axle flange.

I got this part down, what I am having problems with is, the actual riding depth of the caliper, or to make it simple, how close to the rotor do the caliper bolts need to be? I am getting awfully close to the holes in the modified caliper brackets.

Also do I need to drill out the caliper bracket holes and put the bolts through them, or do I just weld the caliper pretty much butting up against the bolt heads? And also with the rotor being mounted on the back side is there issuses with the axle bearing reatainer bolts getting in the way?

And then the caliper issues, I am using big caddy calipers with the crummy ebrake so should I mount them upside down to keep the cable and crap put of the way? This would entail me bleeding them off the jeep I know, but is it worth doing?

I swear to gawd I am getting this thing done this weekend, then you guys wont keep hearing about my brake issuses, so please help if you can.

Take care.

Can't comment on most of that since my rotors are on the outside, but FWIW my TSM kit put the caliper bolts as close to the rotor as possible. Too close in fact, once the rotor gets hot it expands and rubs the studs :mad: After a trip or two they self-clearanced so now all is well :rolleyes: I'd have much rather seen them have about an 1/8" of clearance. The pads even rubbed the "hat" portion of the rotor because they're too close. You lost me on the rest of it though. Well, except for the Caddy calipers and I intentionally avoided them. Too expensive and for the most part the e-brake feature is unimpressive. I opted for the cheapie Monte Carlo calipers and plan on adding a t-case disk e-brake. Good luck!

I'm using full chevy backing plates on my back axle, but I believe that the sliding pins are about 1/4" off the rotor in a stock configuration.

Don't mount the calipers upside down unless you want to take them off to bleed them.

Eric,

They are now spaced off the rotors. At least my set is :)

Steve, did they use studs on your brackets too? I saw some new ones for a different application (Chrysler 9.25") which had studs. Mine has tubes welded on (and ground for clearance) for spacers and I use bolts to attach it. Curious how much they've changed since I got these last year. Good to hear they fixed the clearance issue, I haven't gotten around to calling them about it. Been considering turning down the OD on the rotors to get some clearance.

Originally posted by Eric Ruhl
Can't comment on most of that since my rotors are on the outside, but FWIW my TSM kit put the caliper bolts as close to the rotor as possible.

Did you order the kit or just the brackets and if just the brackets, how much were they?

Eric,

Mine are just small spacers with the brackets tapped on one side for the pins to thread into.

Heres a picture

http://wheelingpiazzas.com/pictures/brakes/DCP00477.JPG

http://wheelingpiazzas.com/pictures/brakes/DCP00481.JPG

My whole kit was 225, I think the brackets were only 75 bucks or something.

Are those 7/8 or 1 1/8 rotors in that pic?

I forget what they are, but there off a 92 ifs chevy light duty 1/2 ton truck.

Steve, those look like mine except mine are black and, as mentioned, the pins are too close to the rotor. Can't quite tell from the pic, but the spacers are welded to the bracket on mine. Then there are small sleeves that get inserted into the axle flange and backing plate holes since the holes are so much larger than the bolts. Thanks for the pics!

Brian, I got the whole kit (rotors and brackets). Was just gonna get the rotors but they're most of the cost so figured what the heck, get the brackets too so it's all bolt on. I'm using Monte Carlo front calipers btw. Much cheaper to put the rotor on the inside of the axle flange, but I didn't want to have to deal with that on spare shafts. Now if I still had the Dutchmans.... :D

Just for fun......I did a search.......I know this is a 'fossil' of a thread, but did you work out any e-brake solutions?????

Where can you order just the brackets from?

Holy crap bringing up a old post!

Theres tons of places on the net and ebay that sell the brackets.

Although I found it easyier to just buy a set of wago brackets and weld them on.


LOL! And I dont even have a 44 anymore, its been replaced with a 14bolt

Originally posted by UT91XJ96ZJ
Just for fun......I did a search.......I know this is a 'fossil' of a thread, but did you work out any e-brake solutions?????

I got the same kit pictured above, no e-brake, I just carry 2 bricks in the back to throw under the tire incase I HAVE to park on a hill. I plan on installing a line lock to have for trail use only.

Originally posted by mudpup


I got the same kit pictured above, no e-brake, I just carry 2 bricks in the back to throw under the tire incase I HAVE to park on a hill. I plan on installing a line lock to have for trail use only.


Ahhhh,,,,, I've just ripped a brakeline off lately and realized how much I like having a 'manual' way to apply some brakes. Just curious and thanks for the 'fossil' follow-up.