Questions on Lockrights

[Sarcastro]

I just got my 1st locker in the mail for the rear of my samurai. this a lockright 1510. w/o sidecoplers.. my question to all of you gurus, is that if I dont have the couplers this locker could be used in the front or rear diff.. right, because the only difference is the splines and axle size from front to back.. right? right?!! so if I have the sidegears from the front, they shoul,. in theory match up with the lockright, right?

:D

[tipover]

your right!

[okcrawler]

If you get a chance, snap a shot of the lockright apart.. I'm curious how they reuse the existing side gears....

[slider]

yea...me too...

So your gonna go rear first..not front first?

[spencurai]

PUT IT IN THE REAR!!! DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE TRYING TO TELL YOU OTHERWISE!!!

[Root Moose]

Originally posted by spencurai
PUT IT IN THE REAR!!! DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE TRYING TO TELL YOU OTHERWISE!!!

Ditto.

I think this whole "front locker first" stuff came from weenies that were afraid of rear locker handling quirks on road. The same weenies that prefer IFS.

Weight transfers to the rear on acceleration - that's where you make the most traction. If you are going to install only one locker put it in the rear.

$0.02

r@m

[Root Moose]

I know this is not "optimal" but I have a 1510 sitting in a box and a Sam with TracKick aluminum housing in the rear axle.

Will the 1510 fit in this setup? I'm thinking so but...

I will eventually change out to an steel Sam housing for the rear but I am running out of time/money to get ready for the Calabogie run at the end of May.

The run is 20 minutes from my house so if I frag the rear diff no major drama...

r@m

[tipover]

locker wont work in the side kick front housing!

[Root Moose]

Originally posted by tipover
locker wont work in the side kick front housing!

Not at all eh?

Oh well, no biggie - just time consuming.

Thanks.

r@m

[Sarcastro]

yeah I dont buy that locker in the front BS:flipoff2:

My Lockers going in the back pig!!! I'll try to snap some pics if you like.. Nother Question, any locker install tips?:D

[Bill4rest]

Originally posted by kestrel
yeah I dont buy that locker in the front BS:flipoff2:

My Lockers going in the back pig!!! I'll try to snap some pics if you like.. Nother Question, any locker install tips?:D

Yep, mind your torque specs use locktight.

[Zukinstein]

Just my .02
I switched a locker from rear to front as an experiment. Just to see which worked better. For me it worked better in the front than the rear. I went over the same trail better with it in the front than in the rear. Same day even, just to keep variables down. Also tried it in the mud, seemed to work better there also. With this in mind I decided to install front and rear to see what would happen. Did even better in the mud and snow. Really showed that I need to gear this thing for everything else. I did use Lock-Rites with 32 swampers, weber and header. They're in my wifes tin-top right now, as she likes the mud bogs. Mine is still on jack stands (4.3, wag 44's, etc.)
Also just for grins, we pulled the 32's and put 33/14 boggers on the back when the locker was there, it still did better with the locker in the front versus the rear.

[Dychen]

from what i understand, putting a locker in the front is just asking to blow up stock b-fields anyhow. is this true. also, what is this madness i'm hearing about not being able to put lockers in the front if you us a kicktrac diff

[tipover]

you not even in the ball game without 2 yes I said two lockers!

[Zukinstein]

Broke 2 birf's and one rear axle and one rear side gear. One thing that I have learned though, the front is easier/quicker to change. Since the disk can be removed from the hub and I don't reinstall the clip on the outer axle (behind the lockout hub) I don't have to mess with the wheel bearings. Just two caliper bolts and four spinde bolts to mess with. Also run lockers in my Suburban (d44) and other club members have them in their d60's. They are breaking axles too. If you have lockers something has to give, usually an axle or its corresponding "joint". Carry spares and upgrade from "stock" components. Still gonna break something! You're not truly having fun if you don't. Don't know about kicktrac stuff though. Upgrading to toy stuff anyhow. Will probably break birfs or axles there too.

[fatkid]

The Toy Birfs can take it.

[rockzooki]

put the locker in the front and weld the rear. :flipoff2:

[Root Moose]

Originally posted by dychen
also, what is this madness i'm hearing about not being able to put lockers in the front if you us a kicktrac diff

The 1510 and 1530 Lockrights don't work in the Sideflip diff. You need to change the diff (whether installed in the front or rear of your SAm) - effectively transplant your Trackick R&P set to a steel Samurai carrier.

It really is the best way to go anyway, using the aluminum TracKick carrier/diff housing is asking for problems with a locker in the long run.

In my case I was just hoping to limp by until when I had more time to devote to the transplant.

I suppose you could buy the TracKick part number lockright but I don't think that is a good idea because the TracKick setup is weak.

r@m

[jims4x4]

I am running toy stuff,I had the detroit in the rear at first but something about the weight of a sami versus toy,the detroit would not lock up all the time in reverse.so i put it in the front and put a welded 5.29 in the rear now she pulls like a tractor with the 35" TSL's ,plenty O' traction

[Sarcastro]

really, thats interesting, did you goto a flatbed or something?

[billj]

I´m currently running welded in the rear. It´s only been two weeks, tho. At first, I didn´t like it at all on the street, being constantly worried about axle wind-up and eventual breakage. However, I´m staaaarting to get used to it. Really haven´t made up my mind yet.

In any event, if you gotta choose for one, locked in the rear is much better than in the front. The weight´s in the back when you´re climbing and that´s when you´re most likely to need the extra traction.

I´m ARBed in the front, so for me there´s no issue...


Bill
--------------

1998 Samurai, custom coil suspension, Dana 30 ARB front and Dana 30 welded rear, GRS 2, 4,88 diffs, 35 x 15,5 TSl/SX

[Zukinstein]

I did climb hills in my testing described above. It still climbed the hills better with the locker in the front than in the back. Even did the hill in reverse, also. That is where the locker in the front really shined (versus the rear). But I don't think that the Zuk's transfer that much of the 100 pound engine to the rear to really make a difference, hence the better climbing with it in the front. But, in my Suburban, 52% of the weight is on the rear axle to start with. So with only one locker, it was better to have it in the rear. This testing was done on dirt hills, not rocks. If that makes a difference, I don't know. Just my opinions, but for the money on a looow budget, and if I only had one locker, in the Zuk it would have to go in the front.

[Rocky Road]

Actually, you can put a Samurai locker into a Sidekick 3rd member, you just have to use a Samurai carrier to do so. Bolt the ring gear to a Samurai carrier, double check your tooth pattern, and you're good to go.

Of course the aluminum sidekick housing is junk anyway. Don't know why you'd want to stay with it over the steel Samurai one

[Sarcastro]

Glenn, do you ever check the backlash when setting up a lockright?

[Rocky Road]

I always double check preload and backlash after setting up a locker.

[jp008]

Ya what they said. Put the locker in the rear. I traveled 75% of behind the rocks from end to start in 2lo and locked in the back. I have done more in 2lo/locked than 4lo/open.

It's not my $.02 I had to borrow it.