I knew this day would happen sooner or later. '92 tranny. After a manual upshift from 3rd, I hear an uncharacteristic clunk, with a loss of drive in 4th. Turns out that 2nd and reverse are also gone. Fluid temp at the time about 230, eng RPM about 3K. A search shows the Haynes as a good reference, but am wondering if there's anything specific to look for( don't do it- it's jungle in there...). This'll be fun. Thanks.

Originally posted by LT's TOY
but am wondering if there's anything specific to look for. Thanks.

Look for a good tranny shop or get one from Jet. It is a jungle in there, and if you have never had one apart, don't even attempt it unless you have someone you trust watching over your shoulder. I've seen competent shade tree mechanics with racks of tools and years of experience get lost in one of those.


My $0.02

It is not that hard. I have had a friend showing me for the last 3 I did and there are just some little things that he showed me but the book said the same things. Just take your time and don't get mad if you can't get something the first time some times things just need to go just right. You can get all the parts (master kit,shift kit,band,servo,and tq) for about 300 bucks let me know if you need any thing. There are some tools that you NEED. See if you can barow them if you had to buy them all it would be about 150-250. The big problem with trans shops is they just fix whats broke and put it back together most of the time. Just do it.

For the cost of a kit, tools you will need, and the time in labor, I would pull out the tranny and drop it off at a tranny shop.
Auto trannies aren't too difficult, if you know what your doing, and have the right equipment.
But, if you like a challenge, go for it. If you want to drive your truck soon, farm out the work. This way you will get a gaurantee, and if it fawks up, they will be tearing it apart again, not you. If you have ever rebuilt a auto tranny, you will know what I mean........ :skull:

I have read that if the sun gear shell breaks, that you will lose 2nd, 4th and reverse. I'm look at a heavy duty one for 56 bucks. So a rebuild and that doesn't seem that much if you did it yourself.

Bryan

I would say the same thing. The only common thread I see between reverse, 2nd and 4th is the input reaction shell. You can get a tougher one from http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm

Since this seems like a a basic mechanical failure, it shouldn't be too hard to find the problem once you have it opened up.

If you take it to a shop, make sure you know exactly what they are putting in and what they are not. You can save hundreds of dollars if you want to remove and reinstall the transmission yourself, but you will have to repeat that then if there is warranty work.

The Haynes manual is good. If you do it yourself, make sure to lay everything out very neatly in the order you remove it and make sure you put it back together exactly the same. It's a little bit harder if you do a shift kit, too. You can also do a stock rebuild and once you're sure it works right, then do a shift kit. Brake parts cleaner is great for cleaning everything.

It's hard to know for sure which tools you will definately need until you are underway. Sometimes you can improvise or fabricate a tool, but sometimes not. You may be able to take certain sub-assemblies to a local shop and have them do a few things that require special tools.

Don't even consider reusing the torque converter.
Overall, it's about as complicated as changing spark plug....in the space shuttle!

incredible post, BBJ. Thanks. I don't think this'll be too difficult(damn, anyone see where that spring landed...?).

Hey guys,
I got a jet and love the thing, just make sure you install it right and you will get used to the beyond solid shifts. It is really rough in drive but if you keep it in overdrive it is smooth sailing.
Good luck,
Dave

From what I've seen, (I've watched and assisted my buddy on a few rebuilds) you have to be really careful with all the parts. We had one that wouldn't shift from 1-2 for anything. It turned out that one of the small balls had a small flat spot on it. It had either been dropped, or made that way and was hanging up. Other than that, just follow the directions and double check everything and you should be fine.

just to let everyone know, the Haynes book is excellent, and Performance Automotive & Transmission Center was a good source for better than stock replacement parts. The problem was a failed sun reaction shell. Rebuilding wasn't that difficult, and it shifts better than ever. Thanks again Big Blue Jimmy.

"truckin" magazine has an article this month I think! about the
700r-4 and the importance of making sure your torque converter
is built/re-built right to avoid alot of problems. Might help;)

HEY LT
What T case is behind your 700R4?
I am running a 4.3 in my Toy and am planning to swap in the 700R4, but want to use a GM tcase rather than buy adapters for the Toy Tcase.....I want something that is tough enough to handle my 38's.


TIA....4.3runner

Well behind my 7000r4 is an np241 tcase. with the drop on the drivers side if you need a passenger side drop you will probably go with a 208. From what i hear the 241 one of the strongest tcases 88 and up
-Dave

I'm running the Toyota case with a set of 4.70 gears(Marlin), with 35's, no problems. I wouldn't hesitate running 37's with this setup, but don't plan on going that big being a daily driver.

I have been running 35's since '89 when the runner had 300 miles on the odo.....I still have a nice set to use for street driving, but I just bought a set of 38 TSL on black wagon wheels for trail use.....I have been building up a D44 with 4.88 and locker to swap in....I have friend that is giving me a 700R4 that was recently rebuilt and is supposed to have a lower than stock 1st gear.....I just need to find out what Tcase to look for...it is a daily driver, but with two sets of wheels/tires, it is no big deal....
the 4.3CPI make splenty of power and doesn't have a problem turning the 38's.
I am simply upgrading to an auto(tired of shifting) and want a good Tcase to go with it....

funny you should say that...I picked up a manual valve body for this 700R. I know the failure initiated during a 1-2 auto shift in low range under considerable power, so it'll be nice to be able to select 2nd or 3rd in the first place.