Is there a flat pitman arm available for a YJ - 0 drop same length?
I just moved the front axle forward 1.2" and now the pitman/TRE just barley collides w the tie rod when I fully compress the drivers side springs.:mad:
Sanity check: I think if I remove the sway bar (hasn't been hooked up for years anyway), a flat pitman arm will be up high enough that it would be out of the way before bump stops prevent it from hitting. My steering is prety flat now using high steer arms so I think it would work but
:question:

I've been dealing with the same problem. I ended up ordering a set of those high steer arms that put the tie rod behind the axle. While I was looking for a solution I found a Ford pitman arm that was the same length but almost flat. Not sure what it came out of, I got it from the local 4X4 shop after they did a lift on somebody's Ford.

Do you still need a flat pitman with your new arms? Did you have to modify the Ford arm at all? What was the pucker factor $$ on the behind the pumpkin steering arms? Any regrets?

I took another look at the Ford arm today - I think it's clocked wrong for a Jeep, but I wouldn't know until I pull the YJ arm off.
My set up right now - stock YJ arm drilled 5/8" with a heim joint in it. Drag link going to a high steer arm on the passenger side with a TRE. Tie rod in the stock location.
Soon to come - YJ arm reamed for a big taper (mid 80's Blazer) TRE. High steer arms (Eric Ruhl's design) that puts the tie rod behind the axle. Clearance problem solved.
Cost - figure about $150 per arm,$$60 for the hardware, $80 for all the tie rod ends $?? for the tie rod and drag link.

A waggy pitman arm is flat, but is about 1/2" longer. It is clocked wrong, but just file the keys and put it where you want.

A waggy pitman arm is flat, but is about 1/2" longer. It is clocked wrong, but just file the keys and put it where you want.

How do you mean clocked wrong?

I just cut off my track-bar mount and mine works perfect. The only reason it hit the track bar mount was because of it's long length

Now if you are speaking about a YJ with a track bar I could easily be wrong, I haven't seen one of those in a few years:D

Originally posted by harsanyj
A waggy pitman arm is flat, but is about 1/2" longer. It is clocked wrong, but just file the keys and put it where you want.
This will increase steering effort unless you also get longer high steer arms. This will also compund your clearance problem by moving the pitman arm further over your tie rod, possibly causing binding issues with your drag link and tie rod.

Yea, the binding is my issue now. I went dipster divin' at a 4x4 shop and found a CJ arm, about 3/4" drop- and maybe a little shorter. Don't think that will work too well. I also found a Frod arm- WAY long and flat as they come. I'm think I will use it -shorten, redrill / taper so I can use my TRE and save a few$$. Just bought a pitman puller so I'll see if it'll even fit the box before I go to a lot more work.

Or have one custom made. The price isnt bad either.

Chev Camaro pitman arm,
flat as a pancake and plenty of beef at the taper to take it up to ES2027 size if need be.....

Yea, now it's time to find a reamer. Tried Car-quest, no dice. Read a whyle back snap on had them and prety rea$onablly priced. Never bought anything from them before. Will check their web site next.

Speedway motors has them. About $70.

I couldn't get their web page to open. Ended up ordering from afco racing. I like the price of snap's on but I'm tired of tools that fail on me:mad3: , and what I've read a lot of people have been dissapointed w/ snapon's reamer. What I've been told is the snap on reamer is designed for cleaning up a tierod taper and not making one. I may weld the pitman end up a little thicker too. After brousing Afco's page, thay are definatly into race intended fabrication so I'm counting on high quality.

Originally posted by CRO
Chev Camaro pitman arm,
flat as a pancake and plenty of beef at the taper to take it up to ES2027 size if need be.....

what year camaro :question:

Originally posted by WheelingPiazza
Or have one custom made. The price isnt bad either.

Where?????

Just finished building my own arm, tooo easy.
The AFCO RACING, part #80770 ($119.50) reamer is made by Gammons. If you try to buy it direct from Gammons it's ~$190.

Here is the cool part- If you go to Gammons web site "http://www.gammons.com/Htmlstuff/SchedulV1.html" check the 3/8" reamer.
.375 small end
.7500 large end
3" Flute length
4 Flutes
5/8 shank
5" overall Length
it'll work for all tre's that are up to 3/4"!!!!
Price is about $50 to your door and note the shank is 5/8" so you'll need a healthy size chuck.
mike