: Saginaw PS ?-one step forward, two steps back?


65SWB45
07-14-2006, 11:05 PM
I have had Saginaw power steering on my FJ40 since 1992. I consider it to be one of the best improvements you can do, dollar for dollar, on an FJ40. That said, the guy that did my conversion for me was at a loss for a hole saw, and BURNED A HOLE thru my crossmember with AN ARC WELDER to install the box! Eeek! He did the job for free, and I got what I paid for!

As is the case for many, my 40 developed a crack in the underside of the crossmember, running from front to back from the hole. It is now about 1" long. I have seen posts on Pirate about guys welding tubes into the crossmember to reinforce it and 'compensate' for the metal that was removed. This sounded like a good idea until I got a truck in the shop recently that had the sleeve welded in and HAS AN EVEN BIGGER CRACK IN IT! I have no reason to suspect that the conversion on this truck is older than mine or to think that the sleeve was not installed when the conversion was done. The fact is that it obviously was not effective at performing the function for which it was intended.

My further concern is this. About 10 years ago I was running trail in Big Bear with a bunch of friends, including Harold Hudson, who was driving a 68FJ40 with a Saginaw manual conversion. Word came back on the CB that Harold's steering shaft had separated from the steering box during a hill climb. Luckily, no one was hurt. He and a couple of his buddies that were close by were able to loosen the column at the firewall, move the lower joint assembly back into place, slide it onto the steering box and tighten down the set screw.

On this rig [the one in my shop] I have to access the lower joint assembly to replace a worn yoke but cannot release the yoke without pulling the steering box out of the truck. So my question is, why bother sleeving the frame if it may not help AND makes it harder to service the joint assembly and make sure that the set screws stay tight? It almost seems like, for safety's sake, you are better off NOT having the sleeve, as I would think having access to the set screw is MORE IMPORTANT than the frame, which can be reinforced other ways. The old adage 'out of sight, out of mind' seems appropriate.

Comments?

Rockzar
07-14-2006, 11:23 PM
I have that same crack in my crossmember. I need to address this soon. I should have done it before Rubithon. I will be drilling a hole at the end of the crack, digging it out with a grinder, and then welding. I am thinking of adding a plate to the backside/ enginebay side of the crossmember to help reinforce it. Regardless, its going to twist, even with the very stout bumper I have on my rig. I am actually wondering if the crack started before I put that bumper on, but will never know. I dont know about sleeving the cross member. I cant do it with my set up. But I do think that having a stout bumper on the front helps alot with flex/ twist. I have caps on the front of the frame, and the bumper bolts to them. Note that I also have the frame plated on the outside and inside with 1/2" plate- which is a Butch Lewis PS kit... This is one way to help, but may not prevent, the crack. Certainly wont fix it.


-Dustin

Kelly O'Connor
07-15-2006, 01:17 PM
Hey Mark, don't mean to hijack ya, but I just wanted to tell you I really enjoyed your write up in the "Toyota Trails". I think I had a grin from start to finish. Reminded me of my big road trip out of high school covering 8 states and many, many miles in an old el camino. Great write up.

peesalot
07-15-2006, 04:45 PM
Does the plate on the out side of frame horn go back far enough.
Are your spring bushings tight.

cruzila
07-15-2006, 05:06 PM
I have welded many of these. I am hopeful a plate on the outside of the frame helps with this. Mine has cracked several times. At one time I though the frame would fall off from there to right in front of the shock tower the cracks were so bad. It is currently cracked again. I am also thinking a hood hoop hooked to tube fenders would help too.

All else fails, I'll just keep wheeling it like I have been for the last 6-8 years or so. Heck I even welded an 1/8 plate on there and it is cracked through that.

peesalot
07-15-2006, 05:37 PM
Hell , we've all got cracks....

Killerpee
07-16-2006, 06:30 AM
Well...If you look in the center of the crossmember, ther is a big hole there too...from the factory. That is where mine cracked. I just drilled and welded the crack and then added a piece of 14 gauge steel in diamond shpe around it. Hopefully it won't cause a bunch of other cracks around it.

cruzila
07-16-2006, 07:41 AM
Hell , we've all got cracks....

My momma always told me Just say no to crack:p

65SWB45
07-16-2006, 10:38 PM
So, we've got a total of 5 guys running Saginaw ps on their LCs. :shaking:

woooody
07-17-2006, 05:40 AM
No cracks. Maybe having quality fabricators, and proper parts makes a difference? Mine has Butch Lewis' plates and Butch's front bumper. PS was installed by Mudrak.

fj40charles
07-17-2006, 06:14 AM
I ran a saginaw PS box for several years and never got a crack. I run full hydro now.

65SWB45
07-17-2006, 06:48 AM
Thanks for the additional imput.:)

Opinions on the sleeve?

cruiseroutfit
07-17-2006, 09:59 AM
Thanks for the additional imput.:)

Opinions on the sleeve?

I'm a fan of the sleeves. Its been 3-4 years since I have seen Tolmans, but his crack may have been instigated by the steering box (when the bolts sheered on the Con). I've had mine sleeved for 5 years now, and my truck sees alot of wheeling and abuse, no cracks as of this morning ;).

I know of at least 100 rigs out there with sleeves, can't say I've heard of any of them developing the crack thats common to other Sag conversions. I'm sure some have (such as Tolmans), but you have to realize some put alot of stress on their steering (hard trails, lockers, and 37's). I'm running a hydraulic assist ram, and it seems to have taken ALOT of pressure off of my box and frame. I added the assist after grenading a sag box on the Con a couple years back.

orangefj45
07-17-2006, 05:27 PM
I have had Saginaw power steering on my FJ40 since 1992. the guy that did my conversion for me was at a loss for a hole saw, and BURNED A HOLE thru my crossmember with AN ARC WELDER to install the box! Eeek! He did the job for free, and I got what I paid for!

so let me get this straight; you got somebody to install your ps for free 15 years ago and now, after countless miles and who-knows-how-many wheeling trips, you've developed a crack on the bottom of the cross member. and you'ree complaining about this?!:rolleyes:

how about posting some pics of the ps plate, box, frame and x-member so people on here know exactly what we're talking about.

orangefj45
07-17-2006, 05:31 PM
woody made a good point. having the proper plates installed by an experienced fabricator should help avoid "the crack". welding the front bumper to the end of the frame rails also takes a lot of load off the front x-member and should minimize the chances of it cracking.

orangefj45
07-17-2006, 05:36 PM
another option: build a stronger x-member.

my best friend, bib-block-bob, who's not on the board, did this with his cruiser after finding a crack in his x-member. given that he's a great fabricator, experienced mechanic and he runs a very healthy BBC in his cruiser with one tons and 40" boggers, it was almost a necessity to do so. turned out really well, he used a piece of .250 wall square tube. i don't have pics of it but next time i see him i can sanp a few.

fj40forlife
07-17-2006, 05:53 PM
so let me get this straight; you got somebody to install your ps for free 15 years ago and now, after countless miles and who-knows-how-many wheeling trips, you've developed a crack on the bottom of the cross member. and you'ree complaining about this?!:rolleyes:

how about posting some pics of the ps plate, box, frame and x-member so people on here know exactly what we're talking about.
x2 I want to see pics of the crack

warpdriv
07-17-2006, 06:36 PM
I have not saw any cracks but I did see A LOT of flex after I did mine. I ran a 6" wide 1/4" thick plate from one frame rail to the other right under the crossmember.

If I had to do it all over again, I would try FJ60 box.

cruiserbrett
07-21-2006, 11:05 PM
Like georg said, youre complaining? you got exactly what you paid for. nothing.

Bet money that the sleeve was just sch 40 seamed pipe, meant for fluid transfer, not structural use. Again, you get waht you pay for.

FJ40 frames crack all over the place regardless of PS or not.

Lastly, put a real slip joint in your steering shaft. makes service easier, and reduces the stress on the box, shaft, column and frame when the frame twists.

Rat70FJ
07-22-2006, 05:56 AM
Damn Brett, where've you been??!!


Hijack over, Mark.

peesalot
07-22-2006, 08:08 AM
would that be Brett with the 2 man kayak straped to the 40 ?