So I got me an old Army Truck. 3/4 Ton M37. Presently in as many pieces as possible. ARB's making a special run on lockers for the beast. I've had the springs done. I've got a 318 for it and presently deciding if I should go with an NV4500 I have, rebuild an older NP540 or try to get an original NP420 for it. I've also got a bead on an original Braden LU-4 12K lb. PTO winch. The basic idea is to have it look like an original OD Army Truck but with bullet proof drivetrain so I can attempt Fordyce and Rubicon.

Anyone here even know what kind of beast I have?

I'm decently familiar with them since it is the truck my M715 replaced. Good truck to build. Parts are decently available for the M37s due to VPW and other suppliers. The Braden LU-4 is only rated at 8000lbs, but that is most likely a conservative estimate. To avoid problems with the winch, make sure you use the original sheer pins in the PTO shaft or you will risk doing some serious internal damage to the LU-4.

I'm familiar with the 715 - and all the VPW / Midwest Mil guy's. Parts are easily had for the M37. Do you think a PTO winch is the way to go or would you look at electric. The truck comes in about 7K with the winch. I've added disc brakes in the front and am considering lockers front and rear as ARB has agreed to do a limited production run for the M37. It's also geared with 5:83's so I either have to run some large 37" tires, which may be the way to go if I'm going to attempt Fordyce, or gear it down to 4:89's. Also considering a 4BT deisel for the torque. Don't really need high end speed but stock these things pretty much topped out at 45-50. Other nice to haves would be power steering.

There is a guy on here that has one.. I think his name is "Nolan"
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d183/fenderbmxer86/PDR_0202.jpg

Ill find out tonight if that is his pirate name, he owns one and knows a bit about them.

I personally prefer PTO winches. Electrics are ok, but they have a lot of heat related issues. As long as the engine is running you have a winch, and if the engine ain't running, I'm going to need a tow home anyway, lol. I have a set of 11.00 x 16.00 Michelin XLs to run on my 715 to keep the gearing workable. They are 38" tall, so your thoughts on 37s are pretty similar. 4BT would be cool, but heavy. A nice V8 would be just as good and probably cheaper in the long run and a more modern inline 6 cyl would provide plenty of torque. With the gearing the old MVs have, you don't really need much HP. I am running a stock Dodge 318 in my M715 and I expect it will be plenty for my uses. Not sure what you are paying for the gears and ARBs for the M37, but I know a lot of guys swap to CUCV axles for taller gears and more modern stuff too. Just a few thoughts...

PTO winches don't work when your upside down.

Lol, good point GRB, nice to see you again. I think Tom (Spicergear) surprised a few guys at the TTC a while back about PTO winches. Seems he had the fastest winch or something to that effect. But yeah, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. I guess if I had all the cash in the world I would have a rig with multiple Hydraulic winches driven by a PTO pump, with either an electric auxiliary pump or just an electric backup winch if the electric pump idea couldn't be made efficient enough to be feasible. that's just dreaming of course but I know I read of some guys down under doing it.

Nice FJ80, by the way. Not running MVs on the trail anymore? Digging the creature comforts eh? Lol...

That is a good point on the PTO when upside down.:mad3: You can't plan for all contingencies......One thing I was wondering - With the Electric winches, you get remote controls - Not so with these old Braden's. I was wondering if I might be able to rig a mechanical setup to operate from the cab. Seems like most winching is fording or up and over something where you still need a driver attached to the wheel and accelerator.

I've got a line a good used LU4 for about $1K that comes with the bumperettes PTO and drive shaft and new cable. Depending on shipping from Colorado, I might pick it up.:)

I've also already got a 318 that was mated to an NP540. I've got a rebuilt NV4500 and noticing your a Mopar Parts Advisor, what would it take to swap the output shaft to the Chevy version so I can get the shorter tail housing to fit in between the NP200. Dont' really want to move the cross members around and with the Chevy tail, the whole package fit's pretty nicely. Thoughts? Do I rebuild the NP540 or go with the NV4500 swap? If Nv4500 do I get a rebuilt Chevy 2WD version or swap out the output and tail? Also, I fI provide the bar code numbers, can you tell me if this has had the work done to prevent premature failure on the 5th (I think) gear problem the earlier versions had? I also need to determine if this one has the really low 1st gear.

PTO winches must be operated from the cab. You engage it with the clutch, so you will always be near the controls.

On the NV4500, I'm not familiar with the GM version, but I would assume it would need the mainshaft and tail housing from the GM version. Since we only deal with the Dodge version here, I can't comment on if the parts will swap for sure. I would assume so, and if it is possible, I'm sure someone has done it. Advance Adaptors might be able to help you with this. Unfortunately I can't do much with the bar coded production numbers either. I can run a part number and get some info from that, but the other numbers are normally production numbers for the supplier or numbers Mopar uses on the assembly line. Without know the cutoff dates or production numbers for the changes, I wouldn't have anything to go off of. About the only thing I can think of is to open it up and check internally. With all that said, if you feel that the 4500 you have isn't what you need, it may be better to sell the one you have and get a GM one and swap the input shaft. Just my .02

Appreciate the input. I understand it's easier to change the input to fit a 318 from a Chevy NV than chaning the mainshaft to get the shorter tail on a dodge NV. I'll have to rig up some serious skid plates to protect all the drivetrain as well once I'm at that point. I'd hate to leave part of it on a trail somwhere. :)