So i got the ctm's in last week and decided to rebuild my front end. well i got finished and with the hubs locked it will turn all the way right but will barely turn back straight and will not turn left. The left hub will not engage when turned left. what could the problem be? There is no problem when in hubs are unlocked. i did change the bearings and seals in the hubs, the only thing i can think of is that i didn't press the races in correctly on the left side. i also welded the spider gears to act like a lockrite. i just want some ideas before i pay to have someone else look at It. oh yeah the ctm's kick ass but don't even mess with the circle clips just weld the caps, believe me you will save yourself a headache

were you parked on a relatively grippy surface when trying this? even if not im willing to bet its the welded diff. thats what happens when you weld up the front diff and keep the stock steering! welded front=hydro steering.

oh shit i just remembered, what do you mean by weld on the caps? if you did what i think you did you are the biggest fucking idiot known to mankind. please explain where you welded and what exactly you welded.

Originally posted by 9-Volt
oh shit i just remembered, what do you mean by weld on the caps? if you did what i think you did you are the biggest fucking idiot known to mankind. please explain where you welded and what exactly you welded.


ditto

Tack welding the caps is very common on 297's...Even with full circlips...I'm gonna' do it on my stocker 60 uj's...Dunno' if I'd do it with a pair of CTM's though! :eek:

--D

Originally posted by RockRover
Tack welding the caps is very common on 297's...Even with full circlips...I'm gonna' do it on my stocker 60 uj's...Dunno' if I'd do it with a pair of CTM's though! :eek:

--D

The question is what and where he welded.:rasta: :rasta: :nuke:

Also, how do you weld the spiders to act like a lockrite???:question:

9volt go away you and aggro are the fucking idiots. i didn't weld it solid it has 1/2 free turn before lockup and besides it will turn right just fine. i neatley tack welded the caps. now if you have some useful input i would appreciate it i dont want your damn opinions on what i should have done i have my reasons, what i am looking for is an answer to my question

Originally posted by swamper502
9volt go away you and aggro are the fucking idiots. i didn't weld it solid it has 1/2 free turn before lockup and besides it will turn right just fine. i neatley tack welded the caps. now if you have some useful input i would appreciate it i dont want your damn opinions on what i should have done i have my reasons, what i am looking for is an answer to my question


That is even more stupid! You didnt weld it solid? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH :laughing: How is that gonna be better? THINK. That is gonna let it have momentum when the welded spiders hit each other. We shall see how long that stock carrier lives.

And you welded the caps on the CTM D60 joints. :rolleyes: You must be fawking brilliant.

Is the axle bushing/bearing INSIDE the spindle worn out or missing? It helps center the stub so the hub can easily engage…


That’s about all I can come up with
:confused:

If it makes all you people feel better...Chris Durham welds his CTM caps too! And I would say that he is a little hard on his axles...

As for not welding the front all the way..I'd say that you are asking for trouble. I don't think that the spiders were designed to take the shock load. I have no experiance with this though.

Not sure if this is an issue but where was your ground when you welded the caps? If the ground was on the opposite axle shaft you could have inadvertantly arced across the spider to the cap and spot welded one cap to the cross.

I've seen this happed on large equipment when the ground was on the front half of an articulated machine and the welder was on the rear half.

Sounds like a possibility!! Might have also arced across any of the other internal axle bearings or internal assemblies of the hubs etc. Time to take it all apart and look.

Originally posted by lt1yj
Not sure if this is an issue but where was your ground when you welded the caps? If the ground was on the opposite axle shaft you could have inadvertantly arced across the spider to the cap and spot welded one cap to the cross.

I've seen this happed on large equipment when the ground was on the front half of an articulated machine and the welder was on the rear half.

Originally posted by Scout Dude
If it makes all you people feel better...Chris Durham welds his CTM caps too! And I would say that he is a little hard on his axles...

As for not welding the front all the way..I'd say that you are asking for trouble. I don't think that the spiders were designed to take the shock load. I have no experiance with this though.

I DO!! Weld it solid. I broke several teeth over the period of a few hard trips. Sucks to have a spyder gear tooth come out the diff cover on a back road miles away from home. :(

Once I welded it solid, I have never had a problem. (Oh yeah this is rear axle I am talkin here, experience with welding the front.):D:D:D

But as for binding, I am not sure what the deal is. Sorry.

i had the axle pulled completely apart when i welded it so there was no grounding of other parts and i had the ground directly on the carrier. the welding works like this. the spider gears have an equal # of teeth so if you weld between the opposite teeth on each spider gear 2 times (total of 4 welds ) the carrier will hit both welds at the same time and try to push the carrier apart. so it works very similar to a lockrite have a look on coloradok5.com at how they did the 14 bolt thats about what i did. any way its just a temporary solution and not the cause of the problem i have narrowed it down to the d-side hub just wondering if anyone else had had a problem similar before i pay someone else to have a look.

Originally posted by swamper502
the welding works like this. the spider gears have an equal # of teeth so if you weld between the opposite teeth on each spider gear 2 times (total of 4 welds ) the carrier will hit both welds at the same time and try to push the carrier apart. so it works very similar to a lockrite have a look on coloradok5.com at how they did the 14 bolt thats about what i did.

Yeah but a 14 bolt has a 4 point cross pin and a dana has a 2 point cross pin. I would trust the 14 bolt with this method..in fact, I welded mine just like that...but I would weld the piss outta a Dana axle if I were to weld it.

I think if it was the weded diff you would move the truck around a lot steering, try jacking the tires off the ground and turn the steering, make sure something didn't drop in and block it somehow during repairs, while you are at it try spinning both wheels to make sure everything that is supposed to turn does so freely.
having said this I have to know, why the hell would you weld in your caps on a joint that expensive? I could see it if the stock caps are wobbled out and we are talking about a $20 u-joint but a ctm????

Swamper502, you are homosexual, but i think you will be fine on the account of the CTM caps. Jeeper said you just tacked em so grinding them off later would be no big deal if you had to change a broken shaft... right?? 'cause your not gonna break one of the joints, hehehe.

Jack said you can weld the caps if the circle clips would not fit easily. Besides, Jeeper111 will be carrying a grinder on the trail if you need it, hahaha!

I think your D60 is wussy and the carrier definitely won't last long, but i know you are saving for that Detroit... You can also open it back up and weld it solid if you want, as for holes in the diff cover caused by flying spider gears, they can be welded up too.

I think your real problem lies in buying cheap parts, i mean 35 spline hubs, CTM joints, 35 spl. stubs, your really brown-baggin it man!!!

If you didn't cry last week when I went to waco and you just let me take the parts, you would have never had any Problems. So my point is your a big Pussy. I hope that helped you :flipoff2:

TXSE, get yer yota crap outta here...

ohh wait...

if you weld the diff you well have to time the axles just like the U joint`s on a drive line ,,,,,,,,, think about it your axles need to bend on both ends at one ........ it well one way if the welds were in just the right spot but not the other way :flipoff2:

quit spending all you money on :beer: :smokin: and buy a good diff or at least clock your axle shafts and weld the F***ing thang solid...........


Two points for the newby :flipoff2:

Originally posted by d.d.machine
if you weld the diff you well have to time the axles just like the U joint`s on a drive line ,,,,,,,,, think about it your axles need to bend on both ends at one ........ it well one way if the welds were in just the right spot but not the other way :flipoff2:

quit spending all you money on :beer: :smokin: and buy a good diff or at least clock your axle shafts and weld the F***ing thang solid...........

Two points for the newby :flipoff2:

What in the h#ll are you talking about? :confused: :eek:

Uh, Yeah. Newbie's :smokin: . So, you're trying to tell us all that you can only turn the wheel when the axle shaft joints are in sinc???!!!
Light up another, you're gone.

Hey, MattS. Feel like you missed out on Kansas? Sounds like they all had some fun. The new pics are up on the site. By the way, how's the toy comin' along? You need to keep us up to date on your progress.(Or is it TOP SECRET?)

I might be a newbie, but I'm not stupid. How would the u-joints stay "in sinc" when you go around a turn with a open diff and the outside wheel is spinning slower than the inside? Driveshafts only have to be in sinc. to eliminate vibrations, they still turn and move.

i think the newbie may be right. if the joint is straight up or down, the knuckle can turn, but what if it's off by 45 degrees??

swamper502, oops!!!

He's not. If it's 45 off, then all 4 caps are turned partially. If it's rotating, 2 opposing caps are backing off to 90 (square), and the other 2 are going further off of 90. That's just the nature of the beast. That's what it does all day long when your turning the wheel while rolling. The acceleration is not constant (hence the need for CV joints, etc.), but it does work. There is no need to "phase" axle joints with a welded diff, locker OR spool. At least not with respect to the ability to turn in one direction or the other...

He's not. If it's 45 off, then all 4 caps are turned partially. If it's rotating, 2 opposing caps are backing off to 90 (square), and the other 2 are going further off of 90. That's just the nature of the beast. That's what it does all day long when your turning the wheel while rolling. The acceleration is not constant (hence the need for CV joints, etc.), but it does work. There is no need to "phase" axle joints with a welded diff, locker OR spool. At least not with respect to the ability to turn in one direction or the other...

duh, you're right. i'm thinking too hard again...

owww, that hurt!

yeah elfy read my sig and go back to drooling in the corner.

i don't know what the hell that newbie was talkin about being in fase and what not, damn newbie:flipoff2:

oh well i guess its about time to let this thread die seeing as how i have gotten no usefull information out of it guess its off to the "professionals"

Originally posted by swamper502

oh well i guess its about time to let this thread die seeing as how i have gotten no usefull information out of it guess its off to the "professionals"

Here's a piece of usefull information - take it apart and look. My personal guess is that the left axle is moving back and forth because you forgot to put the c-clip on under the hub. But why bother guessing, only takes 30 minutes to pull the whole damn thing apart.