I've been posting in the Newbie section for a while, and all of my questions have been answered, but since I'm a Chevy guy I thought I'd switch over here. I need your advice Chevy guys.

My rig started as a 1997 Chevy Tahoe, new to me less than a year ago. Since then I've installed a Rough Country (bad choice) 6" lift, and 35" Mud Kings. I took it to Silver Lake, and broke both times I went out. First was the Thermal Actuator (engages the shift fork for the front diff), the second time was my Gov-Lok in my 10 bolt. Both times I've upgraded. When I swapped in my 14b FF for my new axle, I pulled the spiders and welded the rear. Love the added traction and knowledge that it's always gonna spin both tires, but with as heavy as my rig is in the ass, my tire wear is noticable after 30 miles of city driving (yes I have proper air pressure, and no I'm not an ass going around corners :flipoff2: ).

One of the problems with the axle swap I did was, my stock gears are 3.42's, and the 14b has 4.10's. I was going to regear the front end for my trip up to Silver over Labor Day, but that'll be 400 dollars. I've been leaning towards doing a SAS up front with my d44 that matches the 14b... But that's just one more step to making this a complete toy, and making it that much more of a handful on the road. I'd like to have the SFA though, just because of it's known strength, I just rebuilt the damn thing so I know it'll be ok for a while, and it'll easily allow me to move my front axle forward 2-3" that I'd like to.

I don't really have a problem with doing the SAS, and know it's within my capabilities, but is it the right step? I love my Tahoe, I've always wanted a lifted Tahoe since I was 10 years old and I first saw one, so there's no "I wish I had a truck like THAT one to do all this stuff to", my dilemma is... If I keep going the way that I am, I'll eventually have a completely off-road only toy, and I'm still making payments on it (and will be for another 4 years).

Do I wait on the gears, take the Tahoe up to Silver the way it is and roll in 2wd (i've done this before, it's a cakewalk with all the weight in the ass the Tahoe has), and do the SAS over winter? Do I do the gears, go to Silver, and wait til I bust the suspension hardcore before I do the SAS? Or do I take the quad up to Silver, leave the Tahoe out of it entirely, and do the SAS over the winter?

I don't see me buying this lift as a bad option, because if/when I do the SAS my dad will be getting an early birthday/christmas present :grinpimp:

Also, if I do the SAS, my axles are Chevy's, which means a pass side drop for the front, but my T-Case is drivers... What T-Case should I swap in to fix this problem, NP-205?

I know this is borderline "What kind of truck should I buy" but I'm kinda stressing out about this (I know, it's stupid... But I always get stressed when it comes to large decisions for me), and I know that the Chevy guys will point me in the direction they see is most correct.

Thanks for reading the long post guys,
Travis

And just for comparison, stock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/RezoD/passenger.jpg
After lift/tires:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/RezoD/LiftedPassenger.jpg

where in MI are you? i'm just south of the border in Elkhart, IN. i've got a C1500 to K1500 SAS swap in progress.

in order to get your trans to work with a Chevy axle, your easiest bet is to do the same thing i'm doing. a 90-91 Burb or Blazer 241. it has the passenger side drop you need for the Chevy axle, and the electronic speedo you need to keep the rest of your truck happy.

rumor has it that www.sky-manufactiring.com has a kit available to do the SAS swap for $300, compared to $550 from www.offroaddirect.com , and $850 from www.offroadunlimited.com .

i would skip and save the money from the ifs gear swap and head right into the sas, no sence in rebuilding a part thats goin in the garbage in 6mo.

you have a few options for the sas, chevy axle with low pinion and find a 241c tcase[p-side for 88-92] or save the case you have and run a [gulp] ford axle which will give you the hp and you can swap the 8lug to the d44 if you dont find a d60.

I would get a Ford HP44, that way you won't need to swap cases. Sell or partial trade your GM 44 for one. If you can't find any, lemme know, I know where there are a couple sitting....

SAS... Find a ford d44 to keep your tcase

97... push button 4x4? or do you still have the stick on the floor.

HP Ford front axle for your SAS
it will not be a toy only if you do the SAS job right, in fact some people claim that their trucks ride better than they did as IFS

97... push button 4x4? or do you still have the stick on the floor.

Push button.

So by what you guys are saying, I should expect the HP D44 to be 6 lugs, right? Will my Chebby stuff swap on that axle? I put entirely new brakes on that axle, and then ran that axle for about 10 miles.. I'd like to re-use them if possible.

Thanks for not flaming me, and giving me great advice guys. I was leaning this way, and it's nice to have a gentle nudge sometimes. :smokin:

Travis

Edit: I'm near Grand Rapids, MI. It's about an hour west of Lansing.

[QUOTE=RezoD]Push button.
So by what you guys are saying, I should expect the HP D44 to be 6 lugs, right? Will my Chebby stuff swap on that axle? I put entirely new brakes on that axle, and then ran that axle for about 10 miles.. I'd like to re-use them if possible.



The hp44 will be eight lug and driver side diff., from a 78'-79' 3/4ton ford. If your t-cse is push button, you will need to replace it with a manual t-case. So at this point, you could reuse a driverside t-case and search for the ford axle, or use and older chevy pass. side t-cse with the vss speedo hookup and use your chevy axle. If you use the ford axle, u can swap out the knuckles and hub/brakes from your chevy axle for six lug, but if you already have a 14FF eight lug, just use the eight lug.

This is a pretty reasonable price on a hanger hit.
http://www.offroaddirect.com/products.htm

a pretty reasonable prices... i'll let you know how it REALLY is tomorrow, as mine should be here. i'm a little worried about the "35 pound" weight that FedEx has listed with the tracking information.

Sky Manufacturing has a kit on the market for $300. having used Sky products before, if the OffRoadDirect kit isnt as represented, i'll be going with Sky.

He doesn't have to do anything with his current case with a ford front axle. In 97 the pushbutton case is an NP243, its just an e-shift NP241. Trust me, I might have some personal experience:laughing:

I've been toying with the thought of linking the front and not even going with leafs. I know that leafs would be much simpler, but I'll probably end up linking it in the end anyways. As I see it, my major cost will be in shocks. I have a friend that works in a steel mill that can get scraps large enough for brackets for free, so materials would be the link material and heims. Am I getting myself into more trouble than I need at this point if I link it? Should I just go with the tried and true method of leafs?

Red Chevy: I'm not looking for 6 lugs, in fact that's one of the reasons for stepping up to the d44, it's an 8 lug, and it matches the rear 14b. If I had my druthers, I'd swap in a new case and use my D44. Is there a list, or can someone tell me, what T-Cases (other than the previously mentioned NP-241 from the 88-91 burb/blazers) would work? I don't mind if I lose my speedo... Unless that's really gonna fawk with me and my computer.

Travis:grinpimp:

In that 97', I take it you have an auto tranny. You have to have the vss in order for you tranny to shift. You could always swap in another tranny and use an NP208 or 205 and not worry about the speedo.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/ try this web sight, good reference and info and all in one place. If I was doing it, I'd put the d44 in and change to a 700r4/208 setup. You don't have a lot of torque, so you don't have to worry about trashing the 700r4, still have overdrive for fuel mileage and a low ratio to make up for small torque.

Is there a list, or can someone tell me, what T-Cases (other than the previously mentioned NP-241 from the 88-91 burb/blazers) would work?

direct bolt ins? while a 208 and a 88-89 241 will work, they have mechanical speedos, you need a 90-91 241 which came factory with electronic speedo provisions.

Even with a leaf sprung SAS you can run your truck as a daily driver. Especially if you run some 52" spring up front and properly engineer everything.

With 35s and 6-8" of lift I think you'd be ok.....As for the tire wear....Save up for a rear selectable locker if you're gonna daily drive it.

I would use the t-case you have and get a hp-44 from a ford, run leafs and enjoy wheeling your tahoe. the ford 44 would be easy to find. plus you get high pinion out of it. I have a pushbutton t-case and sas with a hp60. I run 4" springs with a 37" tire, works ok but rubs under flex. your 35's would be fine.

SolidAxlesSub - how did you retain your pushbutton t-case with a hp60? which tcase did you end up utilizing?

(I realize this is an old post) :)

You only run in to problems with electric transfer cases if they have Autotrac. Yours being a '99, I would bet money you do have Autotrac. In that case, you need either a manual shift 241 or an electric 243.

you are correct, I have the auto trac.

How strong is the 243?

I'm strongly considering the hp60 but I'd like to stay away from a floor mounted shifter b/c I'm having a custom made center console for all my gauges/equipment....and the shifter would get in the way. I'm assuming it would be pretty easy to wire the 243 into my existing push buttons...?

you are correct, I have the auto trac.

How strong is the 243?

I'm strongly considering the hp60 but I'd like to stay away from a floor mounted shifter b/c I'm having a custom made center console for all my gauges/equipment....and the shifter would get in the way. I'm assuming it would be pretty easy to wire the 243 into my existing push buttons...?

your shifter from whatever tcase you decide on is not going to get in the way...
fuck the doodad fancy center console.
if you want it setup "right" get the drivetrain the way it needs to be.

THEN and ONLY then have the custom cashmere center console or whatever youre getting made.

ok, then i'm assuming the 243 is not up to the task with your comments.

I was originally leaning towards the 205 and will have to stick with the floor shifter.

The console is going to be all metal built for rescue vehicles...but I'll put some cashmere on the front just for you. :flipoff2:

Just thinking out loud here, but what about a cable actuator for the t-case? That may be more console-friendly.

The other catch with the t-case swap is your 4L60E is probably 27-spline, so you have to match that. T-cases from behind the 4L80E and std trans are 32-spline. Input gears can be swapped, but that's more parts to source.

There's a few different Ford leaf-sprung D44 axles... Mr.N is a wealth of knowledge on the subject.

Don't forget about the computer needing the VSS signal so it will know when the truck is moving. Also without that signal it won't idle right and the fuel economy and power will be crap. You can add a VSS to the adapter between the transmission and transfercase to get that signal back and then run whatever transfercase you want. Or contact JEGGS for a VSS that goes where the speedo cable connects if you go with a 205.

Don't forget about the computer needing the VSS signal so it will know when the truck is moving. Also without that signal it won't idle right and the fuel economy and power will be crap. You can add a VSS to the adapter between the transmission and transfercase to get that signal back and then run whatever transfercase you want. Or contact JEGGS for a VSS that goes where the speedo cable connects if you go with a 205.

Or you can put a VSS in the 205 with a little work. I recommend putting it on the left side, however.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r48/K5Cruz/GMCVSS.jpg

I could get you the measurement of the location of the 205's shifters if you want them. They are pretty far on the right side of the hump.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r48/K5Cruz/GMCshiftersclose.jpg

You could find a 205 from a th350, I think they're 27 spline. But I'm not sure what you would have to use for an adapter. I'm using a 4l80e/205 and I replaced and autotrac.

is there a way to setup the linkage and install the floor shifter so the 205 looks OEM?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t117/sparg93/140.jpg

Anything is possible I suppose, I'm not familiar with the linkage setup. As long as you could get the linkage to run to the 205's rail I'd imagine it would work. I dont know how important the rigidity of the shifter being mounted to the adapter on the 205 is. I know it has a weird linkage that allows the rails to move in the right pattern.

Not crazy about my awesome razor blade "That looks close enough" carpet cutout?

Not crazy about my awesome razor blade "That looks close enough" carpet cutout?

I always hated simply copying folks work...:homer: