i have a 97 dodge ram 2500 with a 360 and auto trans, 4x4. i want to drop a cummins in it. :smokin: how hard is that? what all would have to be done? exhaust and what not, would the cummins match up with the tranny housing and stuff? would i have to do anything with the computer? I dont care how much work it really is it just sounds like it'd be a sweet project. Thanks.

Go buy a diesel truck, and save your mental health. Try http://www.turbodieselregister.com/ for all the info. But everything is diffrent. A short list on whats diffrent: axles, springs, wiring harnesses, dash, computers, tranmission, t-case, core support just to name a few off the top of my head. Have you looked into how much just a engine, transmission, and t-case are? The swap is doable, but you need alot of money and skill.

you don't have to change axles sine you've already got a 2500. I'm not positive if the tranny and all that has to be changed either because I have seen on a few gasoline to deisel swaps (not dodge) where the bellhousing was the only thing that had to be changed. You will probably have to swap to the deisel tranny though. Also, i'm positive you will have to do front suspension work because that motor is alot heavier than a 5.9 gasser. If you really want to do this swap though I NEED to see it because I have wanted to do this on my 5.2 for a while.

sell your truck and buy one thats diesel, a desecnt used CTD is goign to run you atleast $3500, and at the bare minimum you will need to buy a inter cooler, bellhouseing, wirring harness, computer, lift pump, theres more but i think i have made the piont its not worth the ass ache

I agree with JarvisJeep. Way too involved unless you have a lot of time and money. If your 2500 has the D44 front, you will need to swap to the D60. If you are serious about this swap, I'd find a wrecked diesel Ram to swap everything out of. There are huge differences in suspension, drivetrain, fuel system and electronics. Otherwise, trade it for a diesel powered Ram and be done with it.

So much is diffrent on the transmission. The valve body is set up different, the governor, the pump, etc... Try looking in a tranmission book if you want to know all the diffrences. Before we all go arguing about EXACTLY what needs to be changed, lets answer the biggest question:

spawnos9, how much do you want to spend swapping this over? And how much time are you willing to spend?

I think there is no point bashing this point over and over for somone who doesnt want to spend at least 5-6k on the swap. But I am up for arguing anyway:D.

jarvisjeep, I planned on swapping a diesel into my truck because it is a short bed single cab and they didn't offer those in diesel in the united states, but I wouldn't have had a problem spending that kind of money to swap a motor into my truck. That estimate is actually cheaper than I thought it would be so there are people out there that would do it even with the price of it.

Well, I don't really care how much it would cost total. I love the way my truck looks and I had always wished it were a cummins. I just wanted to know how much work it , I suppose. It seems like a lot. But, I personally think it would be a fun job. I guess it's really not worth doing, since it would cost so much. Are the cummins motors easy to pull out and rebuild?

I'm not really a diesel man...but I want to be...so what is "high miles" for a cummins or any diesel motor?

Spawn, go drive a Bombed cummins and youll go out and buy one. Honestly, it is SOOO much work and money from what I can gather, BUT I have never done a factory swap so take it with a grain of salt. As far as how much it is going to cost, I am guessing. My limousine is getting a 94 CTD with a 2x4 tranny. I am buying a roll over truck with less than 100k on it. I plan on having 3k on the swap, 2k in performance parts, and another 2-3k when the tranny blows to swap an Allison behind it. I also dont know how much all the gauges are going to cost, all the sensors, all the other "extras" i am going to need.

But unlike the dodge truck swap, noththing I am doing is factory so I can get away with producing parts, not ordering them from parts jobbers or the dealer. That can get expensive fast.

Its not out of the question to do the swap into the dodge, but just expensive and time consuming. I think you would be better off buying another truck and not swap a CTD in it. Then you have all the extra time to Bomb it:smokin:! That turns into a VERY expensive addiction fast trust me.

Check out the Turbo Diesel Regestery. Probly been 10 ppl who have done the swap and have a post up about it.

Well when compared to lots of swaps, it's not that bad. The frames from 1500-3500 are all the exact same. You will need a 94-97 12v CTD, and 47re or NV4500 (I'd also swap in the 241 t-case). You can just get a wrecked CTD equipped truck, and switch everything, or get a running CTD and switch everything back and forth. But unless you have a ton of sweat, tears, and $$ into the current rig, it's real stupid.

On the other hand, I think swapping a 12v CTD in place of a Powerstroke or D-max is retarded too. That would be like swapping a 350 in place of a 351 or 360 if you ask me.

Just took a look at my 06' and it has an adapter plate between the engine and tranny, about 2" thick. Could it be possible to just reuse the tranny on the 360 with the correct adapter?

I would get a wrecked dodge cummins truck to make it easier.

I have done diesel conversions and build ups before.

I might do a different project in place of the RR powered by a OM617 T project...

It is down to two rigs.

1. A XJ or ZJ with a good long arm kit and the merc OM617 T.

2. Reg cab short box 2nd gen dodge with a B series 5.9 cummins from a rusted out 1st gen or even a bus.... It will get axle and suspension upgrades. Lets just say the donor axles have oe manual lockers in their original app.

IMHO the most bang for the buck and dependability is the 12valve with the inline bosch pump. The later rotory bosch pump is'nt as tough.

Just took a look at my 06' and it has an adapter plate between the engine and tranny, about 2" thick. Could it be possible to just reuse the tranny on the 360 with the correct adapter?


The adapter is probably to go from the normal SAE round bellhousing common to industrial engines, to the automotive bellhousing pattern that Chrysler uses. The transmission is not just a 360 tranny. The diesel automatic trannies are set up much different from the gas engine trannies. The valve bodies have to be tuned for shifts at lower rpms.

Yep...

A 727 or 929 trans would go to pieces under a cummins..

IMHO the new 48RE auto or the HD 5 and 6 speeds that dodge put behind the cummins are the only options. FWIW I would run a NVG5600

I totally disagree on what year Dodge to get the 12v from though. A 94-97 is a direct swap over, and will work with all of the guages, sensors, etc from the current truck's setup.
You can get a built 47re instead of a stocker, and it will also be direct swap. He doesn't care much about $$ it seems, so that would be the ideal set-up. I wouldn't imagine a built 47re would cost any more than trying to make a 48re or NV5600 work in that truck. Although, it's my understanding that the NV5600 isn't a hard swap in those trucks either, so maybe that's the better idea?

I would definitely not leave the 231 in that truck. They can't even handle a little shitty Dodge v8, let alone a big awesome CTD.

Just took a look at my 06' and it has an adapter plate between the engine and tranny, about 2" thick. Could it be possible to just reuse the tranny on the 360 with the correct adapter?
totally different creature

I totally disagree on what year Dodge to get the 12v from though. A 94-97 is a direct swap over, and will work with all of the guages, sensors, etc from the current truck's setup.
You can get a built 47re instead of a stocker, and it will also be direct swap. He doesn't care much about $$ it seems, so that would be the ideal set-up. I wouldn't imagine a built 47re would cost any more than trying to make a 48re or NV5600 work in that truck. Although, it's my understanding that the NV5600 isn't a hard swap in those trucks either, so maybe that's the better idea?

I would definitely not leave the 231 in that truck. They can't even handle a little shitty Dodge v8, let alone a big awesome CTD.

I doubt there are many differences between the 12vs and if any exist they are easy to change. The inline pump has been grafted on newer trucks before as well. He will need a 2g diesel dash cluster no matter which route is taken.

The cummins with the P1700 pump is the sh7zzle. Look at TDR and dodge cummins forums. The P1700 is alot more reliable. Search for injection pump failures for the bosch VE pump vs the P1700 inline....

Out of all the shop trucks these had the least engine issues.

My two favorite engines are the ISB's and the I5 mercedes engines.

Off topic but
Dodge sprinters get 27-30mpg with the I5. Alot heavier with alot more frontal area than a jeep.

A plain XJ with manual everything (need air) would be WELL over 30mpg with correct gearing.

jarvisjeep, where in the hell did you find a rolled over CTD? i've looked high and low and no luck. also tell me what you know about puttign a allison behind a dodge CTD all teh research i did made it seem like it wasn't worth, way expensive, compilcations with sensors and computers, getting correct bellhousing...

A 727 or 929 trans would go to pieces under a cummins..

Well so does the 46rh, 46re, 47re. Its all in how you build them. My 518(727 with a 4th gear tailhousing) is built to take all the power I can throw at it. You can buy warrentyd 518's to 400hp for diesels. After 30 years of racing, I am sure you can build a 727 to handle some torque:flipoff2:. But in stock form they do really suck! Not to mention the non-lockup convertor. But if I had a 48re ill swap in a second...
where in the hell did you find a rolled over CTD?
After searching for a while with no luck and not wanting to goto the auto auctions, I found a shady body shop guy with one out back. It is not a rollover per say, but more a car hit the bed and it went on its side. Keep in mind it is a 2wd, a 4x4 is IMPOSSIBLE to find unless youve got ALOT of green to flash around here. Everyone has the buy-a-cummins-and-swap-it mentalty so it kinds sucks to find parts. The same with d60's here too. But thats another long story...
The cummins with the P1700 pump is the sh7zzle
x2
also tell me what you know about puttign a allison behind a dodge CTD
A mechanical allison bolts right up. What do you think is behind all the medium duty chassis that have a Cummins? Try looking under one of the tool dealers trucks. Mine all have the 545 series. Search the TDR website for more info. Its still some guessing for me, but the collective over there on TDR have done it tons of times.

jarvisjeep, I planned on swapping a diesel into my truck because it is a short bed single cab and they didn't offer those in diesel in the united states, but I wouldn't have had a problem spending that kind of money to swap a motor into my truck. That estimate is actually cheaper than I thought it would be so there are people out there that would do it even with the price of it.
Personally, I think it would be easier to buy a standard cab diesel and then shorten the wheelbase and install a short bed.
Travis..

[QUOTE=
After searching for a while with no luck and not wanting to goto the auto auctions, I found a shady body shop guy with one out back. It is not a rollover per say, but more a car hit the bed and it went on its side. Keep in mind it is a 2wd, a 4x4 is IMPOSSIBLE to find unless youve got ALOT of green to flash around here. Everyone has the buy-a-cummins-and-swap-it mentalty so it kinds sucks to find parts. The same with d60's here too. But thats another long story...
QUOTE]

so thats where i'm going wrong, looking for a 4x4, part that sucks about a 2wd is still having to go out and find a decent frotn axle and suspension along with the tranny tail shaft

also from what im hearing you guys say the 12v mechanical CTD is better than the newer common rail as far as reliblity, how do they compare in power potential?

If I need a 4x4 tranny for it I would go buy it seperatly unless I found a deal on a 4x4. I dont plan on finding a deal on one untill I have 4k burning a hole in my pocket for a truck. Go get a auction license, and goto the auto auctions. thats where the guy found mine I bought and where I would go buy my next totalled truck.

I dont want to open up a can of worms, but the 94-98.5 engines are the most desirable IMO. The 97-98.5 have the best, 215hp pumps. The 98.5-02? fuel pumps are not very reliable compared to the 94-98.5 due to the desgin. TRD website has hundred of hours of info in it and actual Bosch emails describing where their pump fails. To make them more reliable it takes an extra pump, and some other stuff. To much work for me. Its also easier, IMO, to Bomb the 94-98.5 to my desired HP level. They are also cheaper. FYI, All of the really crazy HP trucks, the dragsters, and most everyone have the mecahnical pump(94-98.5). You can make Stoopid(pun inteded for you Peirs guys) power from the inline pump with the rigth stuff. The same pump is factory on some on the 8.3 liter Cummins engine. Go figure.

Check out SuperHawk2002's thread on my site

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=85784

he did that swap, plus a lot of other stuff. i am sure that he will be willing to talk to you about what it took to stuff a cummins in his 1500

Yea he's one of the nices guys around. But I think he's out of the country at the moment... Should be back in the next week or two?

I looked into swapping a CTD into my '00. I was going to swap in a '98.0/47re/241 ... but then I decided a 408 or a V10 would be better...

Yea he's one of the nices guys around. But I think he's out of the country at the moment... Should be back in the next week or two?

I looked into swapping a CTD into my '00. I was going to swap in a '98.0/47re/241 ... but then I decided a 408 or a V10 would be better...

better or easier? i know a guy who has a 2500 with a v10 uses it to pull his bobcats, said he gets like 8mpg in the city, when not towing, and im pretty sure he still doen't have near the low end of a CTD

i have a 97 dodge ram 2500 with a 360 and auto trans, 4x4. i want to drop a cummins in it. :smokin: how hard is that? what all would have to be done? exhaust and what not, would the cummins match up with the tranny housing and stuff? would i have to do anything with the computer? I dont care how much work it really is it just sounds like it'd be a sweet project. Thanks.

I've been researching my arse off for the past year in regards to my 4bt swap. First off, I've gathered if you use the trans adapter off a 89-93 6bt you can use a small block bellhousing transmission (like the 46re you've got now). 94-post uses the same big-block bellhousing. The problem I've found is, that the 94+ diesels have 8 bolt cranks, and the 89-93's have 6 bolt cranks. I'm not to sure what trick there is to overcoming this, but I have checked the 89-93 flexplate sizes (confirmed there 6 bolt as well) and was able to tell it's the same size as the flexplate behind my 318 (with the 44re). So the dimensions are exact, I'm just not to sure what options you have with the crank bolts. The 46re "could" handle a 6bt, given it's built to take that much torque at that low of RPM, but it's kind of like driving a time bomb. I've rescently decided to shoot for a 48re to end all my woe's, but a 47re should work just fine for you. As far as what all would have to be done? Depends on whether your shooting for a mechanical or electric diesel? For my mechanical 4bt I've assumed:

Mounting the 4bt
Mounting new trans
Dropping fuel tank and taking fuel pump out, replace with straw
Run 12v trigger to fuel sollenoid
Run trigger to starter
Wire in charging system
Other obvious installments such as intercooler etc.

If I think of more I'll put'm in there.

I've been researching my arse off for the past year in regards to my 4bt swap. First off, I've gathered if you use the trans adapter off a 89-93 6bt you can use a small block bellhousing transmission (like the 46re you've got now). 94-post uses the same big-block bellhousing. The problem I've found is, that the 94+ diesels have 8 bolt cranks, and the 89-93's have 6 bolt cranks. I'm not to sure what trick there is to overcoming this, but I have checked the 89-93 flexplate sizes (confirmed there 6 bolt as well) and was able to tell it's the same size as the flexplate behind my 318 (with the 44re). So the dimensions are exact, I'm just not to sure what options you have with the crank bolts. The 46re "could" handle a 6bt, given it's built to take that much torque at that low of RPM, but it's kind of like driving a time bomb. I've rescently decided to shoot for a 48re to end all my woe's, but a 47re should work just fine for you. As far as what all would have to be done? Depends on whether your shooting for a mechanical or electric diesel? For my mechanical 4bt I've assumed:

Mounting the 4bt
Mounting new trans
Dropping fuel tank and taking fuel pump out, replace with straw
Run 12v trigger to fuel sollenoid
Run trigger to starter
Wire in charging system
Other obvious installments such as intercooler etc.

If I think of more I'll put'm in there.

I don't know where you heard that a small block bell will bolt to an 89-93 adaptor, but that bell is an oddball all to it's self. All of these engines should have the same number of crank bolts as a common mod on 1st gens is to use a 94up flexplate because it is heavier duty.
Travis..

I don't know where you heard that a small block bell will bolt to an 89-93 adaptor, but that bell is an oddball all to it's self. All of these engines should have the same number of crank bolts as a common mod on 1st gens is to use a 94up flexplate because it is heavier duty.
Travis..

If you look at the flywheel on a 89-93 6bt it's 6 bolt w/143 tooth count, and 94- is 8 bolt w/152 tooth count. I can't confirm from first hand experience about the bellhousing comparisons though. I lost interest in what I was told after I decided to go 47/48re anyways..

also if you end up buying a diesel motor make sure it is not a #53 block. Off topic but don't want you buying a junk motor.

also if you end up buying a diesel motor make sure it is not a #53 block. Off topic but don't want you buying a junk motor.
Havent heard this before. Explain if you would. thanks!

727's will stand up behind a cummins. I drive one everday, and so do lots of people. ever automaitic dodge with a cummins in it from the factory came with one from 89 to 91.5. I wouldnt eventhink of trying to use your current tranny. a cummins will eat up and spit out any automatic in a hurry especially if the motor is bombed and the tranny stock.

Same goes for the axles. All 2500 are not created equal all auto trucks from 94 to 02 came with 60 fronts and 70 rears and all stick shift truck with 60 fronts and 80 rears. some even have 70 fronts I believe.

As far as a good tranny that will hold up you need a stick shift or a realy expensive auto. Good one run anywere from $3000 to $6000.

727's will stand up behind a cummins. I drive one everday, and so do lots of people. ever automaitic dodge with a cummins in it from the factory came with one from 89 to 91.5. I wouldnt eventhink of trying to use your current tranny. a cummins will eat up and spit out any automatic in a hurry especially if the motor is bombed and the tranny stock.

Same goes for the axles. All 2500 are not created equal all auto trucks from 94 to 02 came with 60 fronts and 70 rears and all stick shift truck with 60 fronts and 80 rears. some even have 70 fronts I believe.

As far as a good tranny that will hold up you need a stick shift or a realy expensive auto. Good one run anywere from $3000 to $6000.

isn't 2500 suspension under a gasser not as strong as taht under a CTD? i have often heard the 2500 CTD suspension is the same as a 3500

Havent heard this before. Explain if you would. thanks!

Mondo Info
http://www.stamey.nu/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

better or easier? i know a guy who has a 2500 with a v10 uses it to pull his bobcats, said he gets like 8mpg in the city, when not towing, and im pretty sure he still doen't have near the low end of a CTD
Better. I wheel my truck...:flipoff2:

For towing though, a CTD is definitely better. A V10 swap wouldn't be any easier than a 12v CTD swap would be. In fact, it would be harder. A 408 on the other hand would be real easy...

I've been researching my arse off for the past year in regards to my 4bt swap. First off, I've gathered if you use the trans adapter off a 89-93 6bt you can use a small block bellhousing transmission (like the 46re you've got now). 94-post uses the same big-block bellhousing. The problem I've found is, that the 94+ diesels have 8 bolt cranks, and the 89-93's have 6 bolt cranks. I'm not to sure what trick there is to overcoming this, but I have checked the 89-93 flexplate sizes (confirmed there 6 bolt as well) and was able to tell it's the same size as the flexplate behind my 318 (with the 44re). So the dimensions are exact, I'm just not to sure what options you have with the crank bolts. The 46re "could" handle a 6bt, given it's built to take that much torque at that low of RPM, but it's kind of like driving a time bomb. I've rescently decided to shoot for a 48re to end all my woe's, but a 47re should work just fine for you. As far as what all would have to be done? Depends on whether your shooting for a mechanical or electric diesel? For my mechanical 4bt I've assumed:

Mounting the 4bt
Mounting new trans
Dropping fuel tank and taking fuel pump out, replace with straw
Run 12v trigger to fuel sollenoid
Run trigger to starter
Wire in charging system
Other obvious installments such as intercooler etc.

If I think of more I'll put'm in there.WHen are you going to show us your damn truck?:flipoff2:

Havent heard this before. Explain if you would. thanks!

someone posted a link for a bunch of info on it, but basically what I have heard from everyone is that all the blocks stamped with a #53 were crap. Lots and lots of problems and ALOT of people ended up getting new motors from dodge because of their warranty. You can see the number on the bottom of the block if you climb under with a flashlight. I may be mistaken but I believe dodge stopped the 53's in 01'

(edit, I just checked out the link and the 53's were in SOME 98's to 01's)

The link I put up is the best single site to find info.

WHen are you going to show us your damn truck?:flipoff2:


My hooptie (scroll near bottom for rockwell buildup) (http://v8samurai.bravehost.com/FirebirdMC.html)

isn't 2500 suspension under a gasser not as strong as taht under a CTD? i have often heard the 2500 CTD suspension is the same as a 3500
well the front springs are stiffer, but that's the only difference. I'm 95% sure.

The frames are exactly the same.

My hooptie (scroll near bottom for rockwell buildup) (http://v8samurai.bravehost.com/FirebirdMC.html)
Damn. Those tires are gigantic! What kind of wheling do you do?

someone posted a link for a bunch of info on it, but basically what I have heard from everyone is that all the blocks stamped with a #53 were crap. Lots and lots of problems and ALOT of people ended up getting new motors from dodge because of their warranty. You can see the number on the bottom of the block if you climb under with a flashlight. I may be mistaken but I believe dodge stopped the 53's in 01'

(edit, I just checked out the link and the 53's were in SOME 98's to 01's)
Sounds like all the 98.5 and up IDI 24v are the blocks to look at. And a few very very late 12v's. I dont plan on buying a IDI for a long time, if ever. So no worrys! Thanks for the info. Isnt learning great?

Sounds like all the 98.5 and up IDI 24v are the blocks to look at. And a few very very late 12v's. I dont plan on buying a IDI for a long time, if ever. So no worrys! Thanks for the info. Isnt learning great?
B series Cummins are not IDI, they are direct.
Travis..

So I did this swap..

I would not even look into it without a complete donor truck. You will need several small pieces/parts that only a complete truck will have. It will also have the bigger brakes, suspension, and other components as mentioned in previous posts.

As far as the tranny goes -- put a NV4500 behind it, put a bigger input shaft into it, get yourself a decent clutch, and finally make sure you are running the 241 transfer case. It will run you around 2500 if you do it yourself, but will be worth it and in my opinion better than any auto.

I only did this because I got a complete running 4X4 94 CTD with 120,000 miles on it for 2 grand. I swapped a manual into it as well. Hell -- it basically became free cause I sold my entire 1500 drivetrain as well as the auto tranny and parts off the donor truck I never used.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask. I think it was worth it now, but it took lots of time and lots of research and lots of asking questions. Good luck...

Damn. Those tires are gigantic! What kind of wheling do you do?

Local Florida trails and swamps, what I'm limited to. :D

isn't 2500 suspension under a gasser not as strong as taht under a CTD? i have often heard the 2500 CTD suspension is the same as a 3500


Your right I ment to say that all ctd with auto and stick are set up that way as apposed to the gassers with the smaller axles.

wtf are you talking about? a 2500 will have a D60 front either way. The rear axles are either D60, D70, or D80 depending on the engine/tranny. The 360 powered 2500's have 360/46r/231-OR-360/nv3500/231, but the V10's and CTD's have 4500/241 or 47r/241. The rear springs are the same from 2500-3500... the front is exactly the same with the exception of the coils. They are either stiffer for the CTD, or softer for the V10. Not STRONGER, but STIFFER.

If you are going to post tech, make sure it is right. You guys are throwing garbage all over a good thread. STFU.

so your telling me that the dana 80 in the rear of my truck is not any "stronger" then the smaller ones in the gasser trucks. Then why would they put them in???????????

Well, I don't really care how much it would cost total. I love the way my truck looks and I had always wished it were a cummins.

The Dodges with the Cummins look just like the ones without. Since you have so much $$$, sell your truck and buy one with the Cummins. I have a buddy with one with over 240,000 miles and it runs like new.

The Dodges with the Cummins look just like the ones without. Since you have so much $$$, sell your truck and buy one with the Cummins. I have a buddy with one with over 240,000 miles and it runs like new.


I kinda agree with this even though I did this swap.. I found a good parts truck DIRT CHEAP. I would have just fixed the steering and started driving it, but there was no title and no way to get the title without a ton of paperwork. Again -- I basically got a complete running 4X4 diesel with 120,000 miles for free after I sold the extra parts and the drivetrain out of my 1500. I never would have done it if I didnt come across the deals I got... I had lots of free time and no need for the truck while it was taken apart.

I have lots of money in my truck now, but its not the average truck anymore...

so your telling me that the dana 80 in the rear of my truck is not any "stronger" then the smaller ones in the gasser trucks. Then why would they put them in???????????
Did your question mark key get stuck?

There is a difference between SUSPENSION and AXLES. You do realize that, do you not?

I also stated the difference in axles between them. Read more. Shit from your mouth less.

Yes the question mark key stuck on my keyboard. If you read my post slowly and understand it. Im saying the same thing you are about these trucks. Your just going off trying to make me feel stupid or something when the real meaning of this tread is being lost.

So with that said Yes there are differences in them, basicly being that the cummins and v10 models come with heavy duty suspesion componets and if you swith the motor in your truck too a cummins you should also change the rest of the drive train, unless your really lucky.

... you are still calling axles part of the suspension, which is going to confuse the other stupid folk. There is a reason for me being so literal, and it is not to undermine you. If I do so in the process, then so be it. But that is not my intention.

That being said, I do agree with you. The SUSPENSION, and the AXLES both need to be changed. The rear SUSPENSION does not need to be touched, but the front COILS from the SUSPENSION need to be swapped out for diesel coils of the same height. The axles need to be beefed accordingly aswell, but I think that is a whole other subject in itself.