So,
I was checking out Vansant Entr. and I'm going to pick up one of their T-100 notchers. I've been using a jig i made for my drill press and milwaukee hole saws to notch tuging to fit my johnny joints. It worked well except that it wears out the saws really quick and that once they get "dull" they grab and kick. Needless to say the last grab and kick bent the shaft in my press :mad:.
So, Im going to buy a t-100 but looking at the recommended hole saws (Sioux) they don't come in a 2.5" size (the size of my JJ's).

Question 1:
What hole saws are you guys using (assuming you are using them)?

Question 2:
If I was using cutting fluid and low rpm's in the press was I doing something wrong? It is the speed I normally use for drilling and have no problems...

Thanks,
Dave
aka Shogunator

PS I'm sick so if my message doesn't make sense just 'forget about it'

:rolleyes: silly, you're not 'sposed to use hole saws meant for cutting wood (:flipoff2: )
hmmmm. *maybe* Summit tools in (BBY?) might have something like that, i don't know....
i just picked up a 12"+ diamond hole saw for a concrete wall we were coring through. fawker musta weighed 30lbs:D

Im using a whole saw with my drill press.. Im using cutting oil and about med speed on the drill press...

Starrett bi-metal. Low RPM and oil is good, steady and even pressure.

pro-tools notcher with milwaukee hole saw works great.

I just use a sawsall. Cut at 45% both sides, dress up with a grinder, bodda bing, fish mouth.

I like to use "rotabroaches" or Jancy cutters. But then I don't pay for 'em, just use the ones at work!:flipoff2:

Slow rpms and cutting fluid is the way to go, remember, the larger the hole saw the slower the rpm, especially with something like a 2.5" dia.

i use an angle grinder. primitive, yes, but it
works.:cool:

thanks guys,
The info helped but I'm still not really sure how come my set up is burning up the saws though. I use a really light pressure (almost none) and cutting oil. What size / kind of material are you guys cutting? The jig basically is a tubing notcher minus the bearinged shaft (hence the Drill press). Who knows...

Anybody else got anything? What's TB and FK doing?
thanks,

Dave

PS UZI, I'm too sick to know the difference... :D

Originally posted by Scout Dude
I use the Cheap azz HF hole saw notcher with a 1/2" hand drill. Bi-Metal blades, NO oil, med speed. Probably make about 100 cuts on one blade. THe notcher is a piece of crap, in fact I bent the main flat part once. however, I have since plated it on the back side and it works great now.
The hole saw brand that I use is from Home Cheapo..blue Mol I think.

That sounds like the same exact setup as I'm using. I picked up the HF notcher for $50 and got a bi-metal Mol(something) blade from Home Depot for about $8. It seems to work well so far for as often as I will be using it.

Ask "fatkid" it seems to me he does alot of tube work , he would probly know best?

Funny you should ask, this week TB and I bent over a 1000' of steel and made some where around 500 notches!:eek:

This is we use and don't use...

We like the "Lenox" bi-metal hole saws (there white and they have a pic of a wolf on it.) with one new hole saw we manage to get about 300 notches out of it with out losing any teeth.

As for cutting fluid we use "Tapimatic" Natural LPS, and we like to cut in the 400-600 rpm range. The saw says to cut around 200 rpm but we don't have all day.

As for our notcher I think it's a Pro Tools, bought for M-Tech Supply. Majority of the notching is done in with the Notcher, however we do have some dedicated fixtures that we use for making the same cut over and over. The reason we don't use our drill press is because the head of the press has too much deflection and makes the hole saw walk, that always seems to breaks teeth.

Hope this helps.:)