Rover runs great on the road, but just dies after a long run on the highway. Hit the clutch and it peters out. According to the dealership (I know) everyting checks out perfectly fine. They can't figureout WTF is going on with it.

Symptoms, Hard to start sometimes, after runing on the freeway, it dies when you hit the clutch.

I was thinking fuel delivery, but that checks out allright, new fuel filter, premium fuel, Nothing is throwing any codes..

There is a slight whistle at idle, which makes me thing vacuum leak, but I cannot find the leak to save my life..

:confused:

Edit, 94 D90

Could be the coolant temp sensor or teh fuel temp sensor.

Leaky injector? Smell the exhaust when cranking.

There is a slight whistle at idle, which makes me thing vacuum leak, but I cannot find the leak to save my life..

:confused:

Edit, 94 D90

Base idle.

PT

Base idle.

PT
The is one of the things that the rover techs checked out at the stealership (not that the dealership is flawless but)..

And it only does it occasionally. It is an intermitant issue.

No codes were thrown on this.. He has had troubles in the past with connections being bad between the sensors and the wiring...

The whistling you can't find is likely coming from the intake.At certain throttle butterfly settings, the damned things will make this horrible whistling noise. Of course, this usually happens on Shopgrrl's truck and at the point where ti runs best!

If the base idle isn't spot on and the IAC valve working spot on, when you put the clutch in, they can stall.

You say it's hard to start when hot. Do you have to mash the throttle down while cranking to get it to start? '94, eh? It'll have the amp on the distributor-might be a bad ground on the amp, poor coolant temp sender less likely TPS.

Lucas trucks only have so many things that can cause it. Might be time for some brute force troubleshooting. Age of plugs/wires/cap? Ignition timing? Fuel pressure?

PT

What PT said,plus clean out the throttle body on both sides of the butterfly with carb cleaner(Will help correct base Idle)

Ignition module? Is yours remote mounted yet?

Just spent $150 on a set of plugs from the dealer :rolleyes: Replaced the Bosch platinum plugs my father installed. Cap, rotor, wires all brand new.

The fuel press is spot on.

Dad did put a K&N on it (stock filter case) to see if that helped. I wonder if some of the oil is screwing with the MAF.

It is also hard to start when cold sometimes.. It just ypically only dies when you chop the throttle when it is warm..

I need a weekend with the truck again. This last one was spent installing an ARB.

BTW, Thanks Slade. I can't wait to see how quickly it can snap a rear shaft :D

Ditch the K&N, they are notorious for fouling the hot wire in the MAF.

Also, check the rotor. There have been a bad batch of 'genuine' Lucas rotors. There is an interesting tech article on the British Pacific website about it here:

Crap, I can't find it. I'll look and see if I can't find it.

Anyway, it's something to check. Sorry I'm not much more help. Hows the ARB doing? :D

Seems perfect, has not been used yet. I am still having a discussion with a guy to get the air tank. Seems he likes having my money and me not having the part I paid for about 3 months ago..
But everyone says he is a great guy so I must be wrong..

:D

(kinda frustrated if you can't tell )

Stop buying parts from the dealer. Foreign car parts joints will carry decent after market stuff. If you need copper, Blue Streak makes better stuff than Lucas.

Mail order aftermarket stuff from DAP, Inc. in Vermont.
Usually the cheapest.

$150 for LR plugs? Send me the Bosch. Are you nuts? Your karma should cause your Rover to stall now...

Seriously, the "Genuine Parts" scam is ridiculous. The stuff is the same as aftermarket. Every time I've compared stuff (except for the Distributor cap) it is esactly the same. The dealer is rip-off.

For instance, the 3.9 (and probably the rest) uses the same lifters as old buick V-8s. They are really cheap. Genuines are 7-10x more expensive.

I have never had a problem with a K&N. Just follow tghe directions.

Stop buying parts from the dealer. Foreign car parts joints will carry decent after market stuff. If you need copper, Blue Streak makes better stuff than Lucas.

Mail order aftermarket stuff from DAP, Inc. in Vermont.
Usually the cheapest.

$150 for LR plugs? Send me the Bosch. Are you nuts? Your karma should cause your Rover to stall now...

Seriously, the "Genuine Parts" scam is ridiculous. The stuff is the same as aftermarket. Every time I've compared stuff (except for the Distributor cap) it is esactly the same. The dealer is rip-off.

For instance, the 3.9 (and probably the rest) uses the same lifters as old buick V-8s. They are really cheap. Genuines are 7-10x more expensive.

I have never had a problem with a K&N. Just follow tghe directions.
Do you really think that I am that stupid?

Karma? You must be kidding me.

Yeah, the bosch 4 prong platinum plugs are the absolute "best plugs on the market.." Got any splitfire plugs to make the truck run better??? :rolleyes:


I could care less about genuine parts. It went to the dealership because I did not have enough time with the rover in my hands to diagnose the problem.. Simple as that. I paid for convience..
Unfortunately, this time it did not pay off so I am going to have to drive from Las Vegas to Bakersfield to help my father out with his rig.. Something that I do not have the time to do. But because he is my father has helped me out with my landcruiser addiction for years when I was younger I will do it.

K&N filters suck ass. They only filter extremely well when absolutely clogged, if they are clean the red dirt in Moab goes right through.. And, if they are over oiled they have a tendency to coat the MAF element causing false readings. In New York that might not be an issue but out here in the west, they are not the greatest thing in the world..
BTW, exactly what directions are needed to install an air filter?????
:confused: