I have been looking to get a scout and have found one I like.
Its got a 350 chevy crate motor /edlebrock intake and carb, used to be a diesel.....gauge says 76,600 miles, but new engine is far less. Rancho suspension, ZERO rust! coated interior w/ truckbed liner. Undercoating, new seat covers, Roll bar, bikini top, 4 6x8 speakers and cd player, trailer brake and hitch, dual exhaust, 32 inch tires, overdrive, line-lock on the brakes...a ton more. Now the bad part the T-19 is acting up and my need a rebuild or a new tranny.

My question is what’s a good rebuild gonna cost me and what’s the advantages/disadvantages to the chevy 350 vs the 345? Any advice/experience would help me sleep.
:zzz:

345 is a better built engine, but the 350 is lighter, cheaper, easier to find parts for, reliable and already there.


First I have heard of someone running a 350 and a t-19, typically there are swapped in with autos. I'd be curious how they are adapted, or if its really even a t-19.

Rebuild kits for Manuals are relatively cheap typically, $2-300. They are manuals to they are pretty strait forward, pull them apart, swap out parts, slap them together. Call a couple local tranny shops and ask them.


How much are they asking?? If its not a hack job, sounds like a good rig.

My question is what’s a good rebuild gonna cost me and what’s the advantages/disadvantages to the chevy 350 vs the 345? Any advice/experience would help me sleep.
:zzz:


i got an answer for ya... its called, gettin out your freakin yellow pages and calling around your local tranny shops and pricing shit out:flipoff2: how fawkin hard is that...

o and advantages... 350 is lighter, more horse power but lower torque at the same rpm as a 345...

hope you can sleep now!!

Yeah, I can't see why anyone would waste the time and money to adapt a T-19 behind a 350, when they could slap an SM465 behind it. :confused:

T-19's are easy to rebuild... I'd assume an SM465 is on par with it although I've never had an SM465 apart.

Rebuilding a SM465 is easier than a T19.

AA makes a kit to go from GM engine to IH trans. The adapter goes between the GM bellhousing and IH engine.

EDIT - I meant IH trans - not IH engine in case anyone noticed.
________
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Now the bad part the T-19 is acting up and might need a rebuild or a new tranny.

I sure it's a SM465 as Mechanos said. Acting up how, I drove my "acting up" 465 for years before I did anything to it. It would pop out of third gear and first gear was a noisey SOB, and had to keep a little pressure in on stick. Does it work in 4th gear? If so drive it tell it drops, but it might take a few years. I would check the oil level too:D

I have been looking to get a scout and have found one I like.
Its got a 350 chevy crate motor /edlebrock intake and carb, used to be a diesel.....gauge says 76,600 miles, but new engine is far less. Rancho suspension, ZERO rust! coated interior w/ truckbed liner. Undercoating, new seat covers, Roll bar, bikini top, 4 6x8 speakers and cd player, trailer brake and hitch, dual exhaust, 32 inch tires, overdrive, line-lock on the brakes...a ton more. Now the bad part the T-19 is acting up and my need a rebuild or a new tranny.

My question is what’s a good rebuild gonna cost me and what’s the advantages/disadvantages to the chevy 350 vs the 345? Any advice/experience would help me sleep.
:zzz:


Overdrive:confused: are you sure? Maybe you should crawl under it and look at everything closer

345 is a better built engine, but the 350 is lighter, cheaper, easier to find parts for, reliable and already there.


350 is a better built engine IMO

Could be a clutch problem such as a bad throwout bearing. That's real common and will certainly make a tranny 'act up'.

The advantage to keeping the T19 would have been if he wanted to reuse his D20 TC. He would have had to adapt the SM465 to the D20 or run an NP205 (if he had it) instead. Different paths...


I second ChiScouter's Q. Better verify the overdrive if you're paying for one. :smokin:

This is all the info I have and I have not looked at it yet. Im trying to decide if the rig is worth having to swap out the tranny or keep looking. I am going to look at it on Sat but the pics look pretty clean.

Everything is kosher and the engine runs great! Only problem is that the tranny is acting up. when I put it in reverse there is a lot of drag for some reason, meaning that it will roll backwards freely in neutral, but in reverse it requires power. What could be causing that? When I have it in neutral and let the clutch out, there is a noise and the engine slows a little, is that the throwout bearing? Unless I am mistaken, the throwout bearing requires the whole tranny to be removed, which is a pain.

prolly throwout bearing if its making noise in neutral. Wont roll back because the e brake is on:D

This is all the info I have and I have not looked at it yet. Im trying to decide if the rig is worth having to swap out the tranny or keep looking. I am going to look at it on Sat but the pics look pretty clean.

Everything is kosher and the engine runs great! Only problem is that the tranny is acting up. when I put it in reverse there is a lot of drag for some reason, meaning that it will roll backwards freely in neutral, but in reverse it requires power. What could be causing that? When I have it in neutral and let the clutch out, there is a noise and the engine slows a little, is that the throwout bearing? Unless I am mistaken, the throwout bearing requires the whole tranny to be removed, which is a pain.
No offense intended.... but c'mon dude. If removing a trans is a huge pain, this may not be the best place for you.

I thought the 5.7 diesel was a buick behousing pattern? I've got one setting infront of a TH350 2wd tranny from a chevy truck laying in a grain bin. I though I remembered it was a different bellhousing pattern than regual chevy.

That motor NEVER had a good reputation in its 18:1 diesel form. Infact, they color coded the rods in some years to get some field research on which type was most likley to break.

I had looked at converting mine, but it appeared to be a better idea to just pull a junkyard gas 350.

my .02

I thought the 5.7 diesel was a buick behousing pattern? I've got one setting infront of a TH350 2wd tranny from a chevy truck laying in a grain bin. I though I remembered it was a different bellhousing pattern than regual chevy.

That motor NEVER had a good reputation in its 18:1 diesel form. Infact, they color coded the rods in some years to get some field research on which type was most likley to break.

I had looked at converting mine, but it appeared to be a better idea to just pull a junkyard gas 350.

my .02


The SCOUT in question (not the engine) used to be a diesel (Nissan SD33 powered), and now has a Chevy 350 gasser swapped in. The diesels frequently have gassers swapped in because:

1)The SD33 family (although a good engine) is expensive to rebuild and/or replace when there's a problem and...

2)Since diesels don't have to be smogged in many states regardless of model year, they are the best candidates for an engine swap. :grinpimp:


BTW- hot rodders had some success in building hot gasser small blocks out of those 5.7 Olds/Buick diesels in the early 80's. The block and bottom end are strong (by SBC gasser standards) and will accept gasser heads with a little work.

I have an article covering this stashed away somewhere...


This is all the info I have and I have not looked at it yet. Im trying to decide if the rig is worth having to swap out the tranny or keep looking. I am going to look at it on Sat but the pics look pretty clean.

Everything is kosher and the engine runs great! Only problem is that the tranny is acting up. when I put it in reverse there is a lot of drag for some reason, meaning that it will roll backwards freely in neutral, but in reverse it requires power. What could be causing that? When I have it in neutral and let the clutch out, there is a noise and the engine slows a little, is that the throwout bearing? Unless I am mistaken, the throwout bearing requires the whole tranny to be removed, which is a pain.

I'm confused. You say you haven't looked at it yet (only seen it in pics)...then describe how it acts when you put it in neutral. Are you describing what the seller tells you is happening when he puts it in neutral?

The noise that you (or the seller) hear(s) when the clutch is let out sounds like the transmissions input bearing. No matter what, that tranny's gonna have to come out. A tranny rebuild kit for T19s (and SM465s) are $200.00 or less. Check out Novak and others (do a T19 rebuild search on Google) for kits and tech info. Hard parts (gears and such) may mean more cost. Used SM465s and close ratio T19s are pretty cheap. May be cheaper (and easier for a novice) to replace than rebuild. While you have it apart I'd suggest replacing the clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bushing/bearing, and resurfacing the pressure plate and flywheel. That'll add more $$$ but not an excessive amount. Whenever I pull an engine or tranny I always end up doing a ton of 'might as well..' stuff such as the rear main seal, frost plugs, clutch goodies... :grinpimp:


http://www.novak-adapt.com/

Click on 'Knowledge Base' and read up! :beer:

Ahahha, thought a buick to t-19 adapter would be a bit unusuall, gotcha.

Advance adapters has alot of good reading too if you get their mailed out catalog. It'll get ya thinkin.

So does it really have the OD? Cause I might be able to take it off your hands if you go 465 for $50,

LOL!

Ahahha, thought a buick to t-19 adapter would be a bit unusuall, gotcha.

Advance adapters has alot of good reading too if you get their mailed out catalog. It'll get ya thinkin.

So does it really have the OD? Cause I might be able to take it off your hands if you go 465 for $50,

LOL!

What the fawk are you talking about:shaking: :shaking: Exactly what overdrive are you talking about and what does it bolt to. You really are a dipshit.

he said in his first post that it had OD. I assumed that this would be a saturn or warn bolted onto the back of the dana 20. If he ditches the t-19 + dana 20 and goes with a sm465 and a chev t-case, I was joking that I would buy the od for 50 bucks. this is funney because these are expensive.

as far as the t-19 to buick adapter goes, I figuered an adapter to bolt an olds/buick engine to a t-19 would be rare, if it existed at all. That would be what a diesel 350 would have.



Do you have nothing better to do?

he said in his first post that it had OD. I assumed that this would be a saturn or warn bolted onto the back of the dana 20. If he ditches the t-19 + dana 20 and goes with a sm465 and a chev t-case, I was joking that I would buy the od for 50 bucks. this is funney because these are expensive.

as far as the t-19 to buick adapter goes, I figuered an adapter to bolt an olds/buick engine to a t-19 would be rare, if it existed at all. That would be what a diesel 350 would have.



Do you have nothing better to do?

Do you honestly believe this guy bolted a spicer 18, or put 18 gears in a 20 case, just to run a saturn/warn OD? Doubt it seriously. The shift knob probably says 1-2-3-od. :shaking:

I am going to scream...FUCKING SCREAM...

This is all the info I have and I have not looked at it yet. Im trying to decide if the rig is worth having to swap out the tranny or keep looking. I am going to look at it on Sat but the pics look pretty clean.

Everything is kosher and the engine runs great! Only problem is that the tranny is acting up. when I put it in reverse there is a lot of drag for some reason, meaning that it will roll backwards freely in neutral, but in reverse it requires power. What could be causing that? When I have it in neutral and let the clutch out, there is a noise and the engine slows a little, is that the throwout bearing? Unless I am mistaken, the throwout bearing requires the whole tranny to be removed, which is a pain.

It DRAGS or takes a lot of power when backing up?

The overdrive (if it really has one) is engaged. Overdrive units are typically planetary devices intended to run in one direction. They don't take well to running in reverse.

I have a Diesel Scout that I put a JT Laycock(gear vendors) overdrive in, and it won't back up if you accidentally leave the overdrive engaged after you stop.

Do you honestly believe this guy bolted a spicer 18, or put 18 gears in a 20 case, just to run a saturn/warn OD? Doubt it seriously. The shift knob probably says 1-2-3-od. :shaking:


I doubt it too. Maybe he has a T34 shift knob (1,R,2,3,4,OD)...However, I am putting D18 guts into a D20 case so I can run a Warn O/D in my SII...

Dude, before you go any further with this.

You really have to figure out what Tranny/Tcase combo you have.
And find out if it really does have an OD.

Find some numbers, do some research or post some pix.

It could be any of the following in a variety of combos:
Sm465
Sm420
N4500
T-19

EDIT: Oh how I love the kinder gentler POR.

D18 w/OD
D20
D300
NP205
NP208
NP241 (unlikely)

Anyone who puts a 350 into a scout should be shot............




That's a waste of a perfectly good 350.:eek: :flipoff2:

Anyone who puts a 350 into a scout should be shot............




That's a waste of a perfectly good 350.:eek: :flipoff2:


thats why I tried to cut all the scout away from my 350

thats why I tried to cut all the scout away from my 350

That is why I bought a Scout with Pre-wrinkled sheetmetal....More reason to eventually cut it away...:laughing:

I doubt it too. Maybe he has a T34 shift knob (1,R,2,3,4,OD)...However, I am putting D18 guts into a D20 case so I can run a Warn O/D in my SII...
???? So you're going to run an offset rearend? You do know the OD mounts where your D20 rear output was.:confused: Why not just swap in a D18?

???? So you're going to run an offset rearend? You do know the OD mounts where your D20 rear output was.:confused: Why not just swap in a D18?

Thats what I was thinking. I guess the 20 cases are a little stronger but once the 18 gears go in, they are the same.

Could have one of those old Borg/Warner OD units that replaces the Dana 20's output housing. Those you can't run in reverse without them grenading.
________
Pattaya condo for sale (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

Here's a 350 in front of an IH T-19. AA's adapter does go between the tranny and the Chebby belhousing but I had to use my IH bellhousing as it had the right-hand-drive clutch linkage on it. Originally I kept the tranny because I just upgraded the t-case to a NP 205 then to a 203/205 doubler. Since I already had the t-cases adapted I just made a 1/2 in plate with countersunk dual bolt patterns on it for the motor. Here are some pics....

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b326/slipscomb/c8d25858.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b326/slipscomb/187661bf.jpg

???? So you're going to run an offset rearend? You do know the OD mounts where your D20 rear output was.:confused: Why not just swap in a D18?

:eek: :eek: Oh crap...I hadn't thought of that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek:

:flipoff2: Thanks for saving me from my stupidity :flipoff2:


Yes, I am running an offset rear end. I'm running an offset D44 from a Quadratrac equipped Cherokee Chief (along with the matching Chief D44 front). This rig is the D/D family wheeler (lotsa highway miles) so it's not gonna be running anything bigger than 33s. My Scout 800 gets the bigger meats. The D18/20 and D44s should be fine for the D/D-family rig-33s application. If this Scout's mission ever changes then the D18/20 hybrid, the Warn OD, and the D44s will be replaced with stronger hardware.

BTW- Guys have ran D18s with centered dif rear ends for years with no problems. It's not that extreme of an offset (at least for a 100" WB). If I was running a stock WB flat fender with its tiny rear DS then It'd be mandatory to go offset. I'm going offset anyways though...

Oh, and as to why I don't just swap in a D18...you need to read my earlier post a litttle more carefully:

However, I am putting D18 guts into a D20 case so I can run a Warn O/D in my SII...

Thats what I was thinking. I guess the 20 cases are a little stronger but once the 18 gears go in, they are the same.

Dan answer's your question Jay, but with one important item left out: Transfer case index hole diameter. Putting D18 guts (gears, shafts, shift forks, front and rear bearing retainers...) into a D20 case (empty D20 housing) makes a 'Big Hole' D18 (as used by Jeep in V6/D18 Cj5s). I will no longer have a D20 (centered rear output, one shift rod for each axle). I will have a D18 with a stronger case casting and (more importantly) a 4" input index hole (as required by my T19wide tranny and its rear bearing retainer). I can't 'just swap in a D18' unless I find one of these 'Big Hole' cases. I have a crap-pile of D20s and a few 'small hole' Scout D18s (weaker casting, and a 3.125" index hole as used with T90 three speeds), so why not make my own 'Big Hole' D18???



Large Case/Large Bore Model 18
In 1966, Jeep released an alternative version of the Dana 18, called the Large Case model. This is very simply a Dana Model 20 case with Model 18 internal and external components. This version had a unique front output shaft housing.

This transfer case was available with the T86 and T14 transmissions behind the Buick V6. All of these versions of the Dana 18 had the 1-1/4" intermediate shaft.

Full Article here:

www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_18.htm

Unfortunately, there are no output shaft upgrades available for D18s (unlike D20s). Again, it should be strong enough for the intended use of this rig. At any rate it will be stronger (and much more available) than the rare Rancho/BW O/D.

Hi-Jack on...

I've go 2 D18 cases you can have Aaron.
1 is a big hole case, OK gears (1-2 small chips on a few), small weld on case, parking brake, it's kind that doesn't have the cast shifter levers on the front.
2 is standard med or small hole Jeep one, blown up gears, no rear output housing portion.

Hi-Jack Off.

Hi-Jack on...

I've go 2 D18 cases you can have Aaron.
1 is a big hole case, OK gears (1-2 small chips on a few), small weld on case, parking brake, it's kind that doesn't have the cast shifter levers on the front.
2 is standard med or small hole Jeep one, blown up gears, no rear output housing portion.

Hi-Jack Off.


Thanks Mike!!!! :beer:

I can certainly use spares.

:eek: :eek: Oh crap...I hadn't thought of that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek:

:flipoff2: Thanks for saving me from my stupidity :flipoff2:


Yes, I am running an offset rear end. I'm running an offset D44 from a Quadratrac equipped Cherokee Chief (along with the matching Chief D44 front). This rig is the D/D family wheeler (lotsa highway miles) so it's not gonna be running anything bigger than 33s. My Scout 800 gets the bigger meats. The D18/20 and D44s should be fine for the D/D-family rig-33s application. If this Scout's mission ever changes then the D18/20 hybrid, the Warn OD, and the D44s will be replaced with stronger hardware.


Well, since your putting Jeep parts it it, I'll let it slide this time. :flipoff2:

Well, since your putting Jeep parts it it, I'll let it slid this time. :flipoff2:



LOL!!! :flipoff2: :beer: