i am putting a 87 xcab ranger back together. i have a efi327w that is pretty built. a d60 rear with 4.11's and a d44 with 4.11's. im going to running 35" bfg's. now i am at my trans choice. i will be using a bw1356 tcase. should i run the np435 or should i put my c6 from a 86 bronco.

it really comes down to whether you need the gearing of the 435, and whether you enjoy shifting or not. I love manuals, but, I have found that off road a auto will improve your drivability a bunch. I just didn't like thinking about what gear I should be in or shifting while trying for a big hill or through mud. My buddy runs a sm420 in his willys and loves it, but it just wasn't for me. I went back to autos. Both tran's are really tough, so like I said, it all comes down to preference and whether or not you need that granny low...

Later,
Jason

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html use it love it....... i am planning on ditching the 435 in my 79 and swapping out to a manual valve C6 and im pretty sure ill love it...... i think you could go without the super low gearing in the 435 and switch ot the C6...... since your goin with 4.10s and 35s you should be good...... while i have more motor/torque, im gonna be running 4.10s with 38s and 1 ton shit......

I have heard there is a greater HP loss with an auto vs a manual. How much? Not sure.

theres a 15% loss with manuals and about 30% for autos but i have a stroker in a lil ranger. im in socal and want to be able to have an all around capable rig. something i can beat on and not worry about ruining my drivetrain

There is usually a 10%-13% loss on Manuals and 15%-18% loss in autos. Mechanical condition will rob some power also. Different tranmissions will rob more or less power, C6, C4, 435, T5, ect. Different transfer cases can also take away different amounts of power .

Most times it's not really noticable unless your on a dyno or running down the strip. It doesn't really sound like you plan on doing both of those. Go with what makes you comfortable. Are you comfortable with the heel tow? Are you going to do a lot of mud running? The most important question, which of the two is easier and cheaper for you to build?

I prefer manuals when I know I'm going to be miles away from nowhere. If I have to I could always get somebody to run me to my tow rig so that I can get a clutch and if I explode one gear I can always jam it into another higher gear just to get me out. I've been stuck with an auto that over heated and left me stranded more than once and I've experienced others that have had the same problem trying to run the rest of the trail in reverse.

i have both trans sitting next to the truck. i had a prerunner with a 4speed before so i have the bell housing and everything needed for that. no real mudding unless it gets in the middle of the trial. looks like im going to run the 435 if anyone wants the c6 pm me. thanks

i love my 435, everyone sayd to swap in a C6 but i never will, the low gear is worth it alone and ill be running 38's with my 4:10 ratio.

I just didn't like thinking about what gear I should be in

unless your doing high speed hill climbs there is only 2 gears you SHOULD need with the 435 off road, that 1st (low gear) and 2nd, how hard is that to figure out? :flipoff2:
and its only a 4 speed tranny, how lost could you get with gears

Yeah.. I dunno.. I'm a KISS kinda guy.. I've had too many auto trannies fail on me. My np435 whines and grinds away cause it's failing.. but it does so slowly and gives you time to do something about it. Also a lot cheaper to replace/fix. As for function well.. in low range with a high-torque motor I find it works very well on trails. Low range brings all the gears closer together.

same here. i was a big chebby guy till i ate up 6 th350's and 2 12bolts. then i was given a 79 f150 longbed that my friends brother rolled at cow mountain. i beat the hell out of that truck and never once did it give me any problems. so i keep everything that was underneath it and am now putting it in my ranger minus the 400. thanks for everyone's $.02

grab the 435. even with 4.10's and a beefy motor. having that low first is always nice. more reliable and cheaper.

Run the 435 and the best clutch you can afford.The 435 is to damn beefy to flop in and out all the time imo.

All of the above is why I ripped my C6 out and replaced it with an NP-435. Autos are nice, but despite a large auxillary cooler and its own fan, and a deep aluminum pan, mine was always a bitch keeping it cool. Especially when I was yarding out stuck trucks and really working it, that bitch would always boil over if I didn't ease up on it. Rebuilt a np-435, new flywheel drilled out for a larger clutch, and no more problems. I freakin love it, I never miss it wheeling...coming down buttpucker hill is alot nicer when you have it in compound low :smokin: The only time I miss it is for mud drags for obvious reasons.

I've wheeled autos, and found they offer no control offroad. That, and they take the fun out of it, and, I simply don't trust any auto in my rigs.

Plus the auto soaks up alot more power.
THe only real down side to a stick is you break more parts, because you eliminate the sponge between the motor and T-case..

Run the 435 and the best clutch you can afford.The 435 is to damn beefy to flop in and out all the time imo.



it aint that bad, i just drop my t-case and slide the tranny back onto the t-case x-member, thats the easiest way toi do it, and the np205 is only like 145#

All of the above is why I ripped my C6 out and replaced it with an NP-435. Autos are nice, but despite a large auxillary cooler and its own fan, and a deep aluminum pan, mine was always a bitch keeping it cool. Especially when I was yarding out stuck trucks and really working it, that bitch would always boil over if I didn't ease up on it. Rebuilt a np-435, new flywheel drilled out for a larger clutch, and no more problems. I freakin love it, I never miss it wheeling...coming down buttpucker hill is alot nicer when you have it in compound low :smokin: The only time I miss it is for mud drags for obvious reasons.

Not a dig, by any means. If you were having a hard time keeping it cool, I would question the torque converter. I have run c6's in a variety of equipment and with a good stack cooler they do great.

I had one I couldn't keep cool under a load....(Really working it) A cousin of mine is a transmission guy as well, (He used to build c6's for pulling trucks) and we put our heads together and came up with a torque converter issue. We swapped a new one in sized for what I wanted stall wise and the heat issues went away.

A torque converter can make or break the combination. (Don't buy the stock ones loosened up...get a smaller diameter one more designed for what you are doing) Or run a stock one with stock stall.

Again, not ripping you, but just throwing my experience in there.

No, thats a good point. In general, if heat is a problem the tc is a good place to look. In my case, I had a new tc but other variables contributed to my troubles keeping cool under load. A manual valve body, actual stall of almost 3k and over 600hp/600tq being put out equals alot of freaking heat when your under serious load (yarding out a stuck truck). My buddy put in a high dollar C6 with all the goodies, a $ custom converter, dedicated cooler/fan, deep alum pan, etc. and he too would boil the fluid when yarding somebody out. And he didn't even have a high stall or a manual valve body. Obviously you can keep c6's cool, I'm just saying when you've got a big ass truck with a big ass motor moving 44's, the np-435 holds up to the abuse better.

My Np435 whines like a bitch but still works fine. Its got 250K on it and will get flogged again this weekend for the mud drags:smokin:

My Np435 whines like a bitch but still works fine. Its got 250K on it and will get flogged again this weekend for the mud drags:smokin:


mine has prolly a lil more then 350k and it doesnt whine yet, the other owners were all slow drivers tho and never put it thru hell

I've wheeled autos, and found they offer no control offroad.


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

You are on DRUGS !!!


c-6 only in my rigs............435's snap off like pretzels, When ya WHEEL 'em properly anyway.:D


:jester:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

You are on DRUGS !!!


c-6 only in my rigs............435's snap off like pretzels, When ya WHEEL 'em properly anyway.:D


:jester:


Think what you want, but I've found it very difficult to control. I like knowing that X rpm, will make the truck go X mph... and not having to use the brakes offroad, just let it idle up, and down stuff when needed.


And what breaks in the 435's you have seen? I've only seen one break.. In a 78' snow fighter.. with 235/85 tires on it.. all it took was one good 4000rpm clutch dump in third gear.. and it snapped the input off it..

In very rare instances, I've known the input shaft to shear; but this was in cases where the truck was jumped or comparatively abused. Thats it. The C-6 is a tough as nails auto, but I've never ran a transmission overall tougher than the np-435. You can abuse the hell out of it and still get 200k out of the sucker. The only way you can get the "control" out of a c-6 as compared to an np-435 is with a manual valve body; and even then you pay the price with major heat.

My 435 was ran through the 14 levels of hell known as west texas since 1977, until the 351M in front of it dropped a rod. I bought the truck in 2004 and IMHO, I think its safe to say that NO maintenance was performed on the truck between 1980 and when I bought it in 2004. After changing the gear grease, every bearing in the tranny (and trans case too, but nobody ever questions the brute strength of a 205) quieted back down, and I haven't had a single problem out of it. Between the ruggedness of tranny and the grunt of both the granny gear and reverse, I wouldn't give that tranny up for ANYTHING! Run the 435, and never look back. You'll be glad you did

auto's are for 1 legged people or sissies. :flipoff2:

auto's are for 1 legged people or sissies. :flipoff2:


best way put

I guess you folks don't beat on your junk like I do...........I drive like it's the last time:D

BTW- I'll post pics of "2" broken 435's I have:laughing:

PRO- You Can't honestly say you have never been beat by a auto tranny can you ????? no way u can shift that fast:girly:

this one is totally preference, and either way this guy was picking from strong trannies..... the C6 can be done right to work for trail rigs, and the 435 has its strong point like the ultra low gearing and the ability to idle along the trail........ the idling along the trail wont work out to well for me b/c of the trails im going to be running so im swapping over to a C6 b/c i was able to build it with a teacher at school to my likings (firm shift kit, racing clutches ect.....) and i know that im going to need to run a large cooler along the frame rail...... as buzz mentioned the abilty to shift so quick can save your ass in the mud like what weve got round here....... either way this guy used stout parts...

PRO- You Can't honestly say you have never been beat by a auto tranny can you ????? no way u can shift that fast:girly:

Nope, I can't. Buts thats why I mentioned in my first post in this thread that I miss my C-6 at the mud drags ;)

For the thrill of driving nothing beats a manual but then an auto is well, it auto. I dunno, I am swapping out my 435 for a C6 but this will be my first auto so we shall see how it goes..

I have rigs with both kind of trannies in them. My driving style is pretty wild. I could not imagine having to worry about shifting in my "built" rig. I would take a built c6 with a ratchet shifter anyday of the week over a 435. I would not swap out the 435 in my other rig, however.

Basically If I had under 450 hp I would take a 435, over 450hp c6 all the way.

thhe way I see it, the c6 housing is not as strong as the 435's. crack the autos pan or blow a tranny line then your done. I like the simplicity of the 435, that and if I do break one I can just go to the junk yard for $75 and have a replacement. Try that with your big buck auto.

thhe way I see it, the c6 housing is not as strong as the 435's. crack the autos pan or blow a tranny line then your done. I like the simplicity of the 435, that and if I do break one I can just go to the junk yard for $75 and have a replacement. Try that with your big buck auto.
Thats what I like about em too. Bought mine for $50 and its been nothing but good to me, and I dont tender foot either. Ive ran mine off the trail before with no oil in it. With an auto+ no oil= no movy. PLus I like to rev it to 6k stand on the brakes and dump the clutch:laughing:

Nope, I can't. Buts thats why I mentioned in my first post in this thread that I miss my C-6 at the mud drags ;)
I tore my buddy with a lifted chevy auot and 35's a new asshole with mine. PLus mine sounded SOOOOOOOOO much cooler:cool2:

just got the tranny in the truck getting. im notching the frame today to get the bw1356 to fit between the frame rails. the efi and wiring is done getting me dl's made this week and ill be ready to link the front by friday. thanks for the help from all of you. those speaking of built trannies and custom tc's and valve bodies and crap.... well im building a truck and not spending more than $400. so far i have spent nothing on the whole build. and its looking great.