I HAVE A 95 JEEP WRANGLER. RUBICON EXPRESS OFFERS 2 SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR KITS. ONE REQUIRES YOU TO CUT THE OUTPUT SHAFT ON THE T-CASE. THE OTHER HAS A NEW SHAFT YOU INSTALL IN THE T-CASE. WHICH IS THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE?
I HAVE 456 GEARS WITH 33 TIRES, SUPER 35 KIT, AND A HOT ROD 4 BANGER:eek:

I think with the 4 banger the hack and tap eliminator will be fine. If that is what you are talking about. It will be more cost effective because it's only about $100. Arizona Drivelines also has the kit for $100 and it's $350 with the CV shaft. If you plan a V-8 swap or you are prone to breaking things, you may want to go with a "real" SYE. I guess it's a personal decision. It did however get a good write up. Here's the link.

http://www.ilovejeeps.com/reviews/article.cfm?ID=42




oh and p.s.
turn the caps off newbie :flipoff2:

I would have to say the same things. With the 33 and the smaller motor I would say that you are going to be fine. You have 33 with 4:56 gears. You are pretty low should be much trouble. But what do I know!

What they said.

Oh-- and YOUR FAWKIN CAPS LOCK KEY IS STUCK YA FAWKIN' NEWBIE! :flipoff2:

Au contrare mon freres. The YJ version of the kit includes a seal that the TJ version doesn't need. The TJ version is <$100 but the YJ version is ~$189. I paid $230 for my new AA SYE. Shop around and get the best price on an HD version if you have a YJ. If you had a TJ with a 4 then the Hack and Tap is the way to go. JMHO

Use the fu(king search button

And I disagree....regardless of angles, etc, I think EVERY jeep should get the kit. Even stock ones. If its gonna be wheeled, get the SYE.

i have these 535.00 for driveline and kit- Jess:D

here's a pic-

Damn Jesse....thats a good deal :)

I've got a four banger TJ t-case with the RE Hack-n-Tap already installed. $350 and it's yours. I'll even deliver it. :D

Paul

there's a better one- Jess:D

Unless RE has lowered thier prices, the YJ hack and tap is 200 bucks. I got Jesse's SYE for 70 bucks more, and I KNOW Im not breaking that. Heck, I thought I got a great deal, and I paid a bit more than 535 for the whole kit. Don't go cheap.
Scott

Got a friend that broke his hack and tap first time out. Stock 4 banger, 4.88's and 35 inch MTR's

DO NOT GO CHEAP.

and pic's of the broken hck and wack shafts - there weak boy's be careful- Jess

dont fuck around with the stupid ass hack and tap...hell dont mess around with the regular sye's get a fawking heavy duty and do it right the first time.....i have twisted the ends off my mainshaft 3 times.....if i had the 150 laying around i woulda upgraded to HD this last time but i wont have the extra money till i break it again...yeah i said again cuz i know it wont hold up much longer than the others did...but TOM WOODS keeps replacing it for free....next time i will buy a HD first time around despite the "you will be fine with that for now" line....bullshit...bye a fucking hd...oki think i got mypoint across without repeating my self 40 times:flipoff2: :flipoff2: oh and did i mention that you should buy a HD style sye?:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :smokin:

Originally posted by onetoncv
and pic's of the broken hck and wack shafts - there weak boy's be careful- Jess

Yes but..... this picture doesn't show a broken mainshaft, but rather a bad yoke on the CV driveshaft. I've never seen first hand a broken RE hack job (ran it myself and installed a half dozen more) but I've seen plenty of problems with the driveshafts RE uses.

Paul

Originally posted by onetoncv
and pic's of the broken hck and wack shafts - there weak boy's be careful- Jess

Dude thats gotta be the wrong pic, the hack and tap ain't broke there.

I just bought a Tom Woods SYE and CV drive shaft.
It was $600 OTD but he will give me $200 back when I send him my old main shaft and tailhouseing. Tom Woods is pretty good but I ordered my parts tuesday after noon and they wern't shipped untill friday night. I guess I will get them some day.:mad:
I did the UPS tracking thing and it said they should be here friday.
Wish me luck! untill it gets here I will just sit around and drink:beer:

Originally posted by nasvik


I've never seen first hand a broken RE hack job (ran it myself and installed a half dozen more) but I've seen plenty of problems with the driveshafts RE uses.

Paul

I don't need to hear this *holding ears* :flipoff2:

I got Jess' kit for 535 and love it, the customer service can't be beat.

the hack and wack is not the problem its the crappy driveline that your left with to bolt to there flange they provide that suck bad- the part on the driveline is from a bronco ll and are weak- Jess

Originally posted by onetoncv
the hack and wack is not the problem its the crappy driveline that your left with to bolt to there flange they provide that suck bad- the part on the driveline is from a bronco ll and are weak- Jess

That yoke in the pic looks like a stock application Spicer 2-2-1049. It's not used with a CV assembly driveshaft. It's used with a standard driveshaft.

Are you saying the CV centering assemblies (Spicer 2-2-1129X) that are used in the custom shafts that mate up to the RE flange are just as weak?

Originally posted by nasvik
I've got a four banger TJ t-case with the RE Hack-n-Tap already installed. $350 and it's yours. I'll even deliver it. :D

Paul

Paul
he didn't take you up on it but I will if you deliver :)

Originally posted by bluebellyday

Paul
he didn't take you up on it but I will if you deliver :)

Hmm....... No. "Plus shipping" if you're East of the Rubicon for delivery. :D:flipoff2:

Paul :beer:

Currie Enterprises bought my old NP231 mainshaft for $100 after I installed the AA SYE and Tom Woods HD DS. It knocked my total price down to ~$450. It's been close to 2 years since I did the SYE, but Currie may still buy main shafts. Give them a call. It definitely helps put a "real" SYE more in reach cost wise.

RR3

Currie doesn't buy shafts anymore. They will do it if you buy the kit from them though. Their kit is not heavy duty though.

I have the Currie kit on mine, I've had it for over 5 years now. I bought it from Tom Woods when he was at Six States. In Disney, OK last month I broke my CV flange just like in the picture that Jess posted above. I'd like to eliminate this possibility in the future, even though the part only cost $35 to repair it.

Jess-My driveshaft is 16" long from the center of the front U-joint in the CV to the U-joint at the pinion yoke. What do you have that would prevent this from happening again?

What good is a V-8 and dana 60's if you can't use it--right?

Let me make sure this is clear. You have a V8, 60s, big tires and the hack and tap variety SYE on your 231? (Difference being Currie does the hacking on a lathe.) And after 5 years the piece that let go is the driveshaft yoke?

Just checking.

Paul

My sentiments exactly. Blue, you need a heavy duty conversion with a yoked instead of a flanged output. Your existing driveshaft can be adapted and your Currie kit can probably be salvaged (sold used) for about $100 defraying the cost of the HD upgrade. You can have a HD T-case for less than $250 net.
Also, a 16" shaft is 3.5" shorter than my shaft. Maybe you should think about selling your t-case and putting the money toward a shorter case like a D300 or Atlas. That will give you a much longer driveshaft and might cure your ds ills. With 38's you must be pretty high.

Yeah, I know I'm on borrowed time with the Currie kit. When I bought it there were only two kits available, and Tom Woods told me I probably didn't need the JB kit. Of course I didn't have a V-8 and 60's. I'm looking at an atlas but I don't know if I want to keep the 700R or get an NV4500. I don't want to buy two, so I need to decide on which tranny I want to use first. I don't like the tranny deciding when to shift.

Yes, that's all I've broken in the past 5 years as far as driveshaft wise. Went through 6 dana 44 yokes before I cured the axle wrap thing.

The Jeep is big, but not too tall. You can see pictures at our club website:Central Iowa 4 Wheelers, Inc. (http://www.ci4wi.org/Galleries/gallery18/P1010032_2.jpg)