: copying the superlift z link on a dodge
philadelphia 08-05-2006, 12:12 PM Not really happy with my current front end im thinking of running coils and a link sytle suspension..I did the rcc front lift and actually feel i have less flex than before...
I have seen some pics of the z link but never in person...Im thinking that the upper links woiuld go to my current front leaf mounts then to the top of the axle at the perch on each side...Building a bracket for the rearward links and run them to backside of the axle so they dont hang too low..With a panhard bar i think this would work well on the mild rock crawling that i want to do..
Never building a 4wd setup id like to know how to figure out the length of the links to help keep the caster the same..Id like to keep the bars made from 1.5" .250 wall tubing and keep them straight if possible..
Right now the truck has 62" long late chevy procomp leafs out back and 14" travel procomp shocks..Basically the ore monster rear suspension but i reused the stock brackets.U bolt flip.the front end has the rcc lift wich reuses the stock front springs and lowers the front brackets and runs longer shackles..I lower the front shocks 2.5" down and ran 4" lift shocks from a wrangler..With the front swaybar diconnected it will barely flex..It never did flex much before.Other than that the truck has the transfer case lowered 2" stock 44 up front a 9 1/4 in the rear..
arizona-v10 08-07-2006, 01:43 AM I'm missing something , What model dodge do you have? and How did you want to change it? Z-link i need a pic thanks
American 08-07-2006, 02:09 AM Well it sounds like the front isn't flexing because the rear is doing all of the flexing for it. If it's not a balanced suspension, then one end will do a ton of flexing while the other sits still.
Raise that t-case up pronto, Tonto!
But I too am confused on Z-link. I thought Z-link was a steering setup like this:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p8ebaf9d8528b50b1b561862f335c16f2/eeffa1a6.jpg
Z link WAS a bolt on link conversion for '99-'04 Super Dutys. They dropped it though. From what some people said who ran it was it had no flex what so ever.
You would be better off copying late model Dodges.
philadelphia 08-08-2006, 10:58 AM Im still trying to get input...I may very well be a 3 mlink with two lowers up front..I havent heard anything good about the superlift setup so far so i think that idea is out..Swapping in the newer dodge truck stuff seems like a lot of work for oem performance...
hey american why would i be raising my t case? BDS lowers it and a few others should be as well..Measuiring again ive got a total of 7" llift out back so i dont think that my u joints would survive longer than a pull outta the driveway if it wasnt lower..
Pavemen 08-08-2006, 11:12 AM Im still trying to get input...I may very well be a 3 mlink with two lowers up front..I havent heard anything good about the superlift setup so far so i think that idea is out..Swapping in the newer dodge truck stuff seems like a lot of work for oem performance...
hey american why would i be raising my t case? BDS lowers it and a few others should be as well..Measuiring again ive got a total of 7" llift out back so i dont think that my u joints would survive longer than a pull outta the driveway if it wasnt lower..
i dont think he was saying to use oem stuff,but go to a 5-link setup like the late model oems.
American 08-08-2006, 08:02 PM Lowering your t-case is the wrong way to save your U-joints.
I would say to either to with a 4-link plus panhard, or a 3-link plus panhard. If you go 3-link, then you need to put the upper somewhat near the center of the axle. Maybe hug the oil pan with it.
philadelphia 08-10-2006, 11:51 AM saving u joints is very true.Right now im thinking the 3 link and panhard bar.. after the rear lift i needed to drive the truck so dropping the case was my only way...It got the driveline angles back where they needed to be..
American 08-10-2006, 07:02 PM How exactly did you go about "dropping" the case?
philadelphia 08-11-2006, 11:13 AM I used 2" solid ar steel square stock.
American 08-11-2006, 12:44 PM And did what with it? :rolleyes: Just made a new crossmember, and let the motor and tranny lean down? That's stupid, if it's the case.
Doesn't sound like you clocked the t-case, which is the only right way to lower a t-case. Sounds like you have done a total hack job to your truck.
philadelphia 08-11-2006, 04:03 PM You know it would be a nice time to get cocky but why....Anyways the tranny and engine are lowed an equal amount...Ive been building drag cars and doing engine swaps for many years so i know what im doing...As for clocking and what you see as the only way keep in mind there is always more than one way to perform a task..
its surprising how you could attemp to make a sly post trying to underline me and ridicule me...Yet you havent compltetely answered my posts questions asking for your opinion and technical help...
Suspension is balanced and there is no binding at all...Whne i look back at it i see that you tried to help but my mind is made up on a 4 link the 3 link wouldnt give me the amount of adjustment for instant center that i would like nor the ability to maintain a solid caster angle.When i look back you didnt know what suspension setup that i was referring to so i can completely understand your caracter.
American 08-11-2006, 05:10 PM What is the point in lifting your truck, if you are going to lower all of the components and take away all of the clearance that you gained by lifting it? I know alot of people in the motorsports business that have no clue what they are doing.
How exactly would three link not give you the same amount of adjustment for instant center, and solid caster? I am not sure we are even on the same page. We aren't talking triangulated, are we? If we were, then I'm sorry for the confusion.
Yes, that is right. I didn't know what Z-link was. But I did some research, and now I do. Did you ever attempt to explain what it was? I, at no point, was attempting to underline you. Nor was I trying to bold you. Or even italic you for that matter.
I was trying to get you to explain things a bit more, so that we could get a better picture of what you have to work with. I was also going to tell you a few things that might have been done wrong on your truck. I know when I first started out with this kind of stuff, I wanted advise. Any I could get. Still the same way now. How was I supposed to know that you were the god of drag cars and engine swaps? ... wait ... drag cars ... engine swaps ... Do I hear suspensions or offroad vehicles? Nope. Sounds like you ARE still starting out with this kind of stuff.
When I hear of drop hangers and dropping the t-case, I think of low IQ's and wasted efforts. What are you trying to do with this truck?
PS - Even if I was trying underMINE you and ridicule you, so what? This is the fawkin Pirate bulletin board. We all had to take it. Think of it like pink bellies on the football team in high school. Hazing, but on the net. Not as much pain. Quit taking shit so personal. Read and figure out how this place works, and you won't get your feelings hurt as much.
philadelphia 08-11-2006, 07:01 PM yes we are talking triangulated,Im not a fan of panhard bars and would build a watts link 1st and formost in that situation..and trust me dude i never get my feelings hurt...As for begging for acceptance from some group on the net it has never been on my mind to lick up to anybody...
Good for you for researching after posting a few times...At least you finally know what the original post was about..
We could discuss and compare the 4 link and link and what it does to akerman angles instant center and stresses at the link ends during travel if you like..
American 08-11-2006, 09:13 PM I did the research to understand the Z-link as soon as I found out it was the superpoopy suspension that they did away with. Found it easily. But before that, I kept finding steering shit.
At no point did you even mention that you were speaking of triangulated suspension. Neither did anybody else. There is no need for a discussion between whether triangulated 3-link or tri'd 4-link is better. That's a beaten dead horse already on here. Unless you plan on running hydraulic steering, you are going to have some serious bump steer issues with a triangulated front suspension.
I was going to ask what a watts link was, as I am actually humble enough to ask a question when I don't know the answer. But then I realized that you were just like an elementary school girl with the "I know something you don't know" kind of attitude. So I found it on my own. :rainbow:
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