so my motor was seriously draggin ass on the way home this weekend. i mean like 2nd gear up some of the hills! so i did a compression check after replacing the points and etc ignition stuff and it still ran shitty...heres what i got...your gonna laugh...im fucked!

cyl# / compression
1/48
2/100
3/30
4/110
5/100
6/110

--- so it looks like my season is shot....any ideas on how to limp thru the summer...???:(
--- i mean...what if i flat towed it to the trail...it still crawls ok...just no h.p. i got a 420...so i creep and shit....but driving it to the trail is well...not looking forthcoming...i would do my usual rasta smily...but im too depressed allready....its gonna take 4eva to do a motor swap:mad:

do a leak down test. it could just need a head job. you can also shoot some oil into the cylinders & if the commpression goes up its the rings. does it burn oil? those 2 low #'s indicate somethings really screwed up, & that thing could really grenade on you if you keep running it.

i did the oil wet test and all the numbers only went up like 5psi at most. it does burn oil and has MAJOR blowby! it saturates my air filter with oil thru the crankase vent hose.

Hey Dustin- I think I saw you drive by a couple weeks ago- I was at my friend's house working on the 55, and watched a nice yellow cruiser go by- I went looking for it half an hour later, but I couldn't find it.
About the struggling engine... It's a sad, sinking feeling when you realize what just happened, and the implications that it brings. Could it just be a head gasket gone south? Or are you thinking that the whole thing is on it's last leg. Last summer I compared the costs of a full F-engine rebuild, and a chevy conversion... And let's see- I have the chevy now. :) :fj:

it was me and my buddy doing a joyride in his nice yellow jeep. its a cj5 w/ a 302....but yeah...he lives right there on francis street i think its called.

--- im very sure my 2f is on its last leg...but i was talkin with some people and i may do some investigating and try to get it thru the summer. like...it may be vaccuum leaks and oil blowby and carburator leakage and possible failure...i swear...you name it and this motor has/does it....i just still wanna get thru this summer...my cruiser needs some action....

Originally posted by DCruiser138
i did the oil wet test and all the numbers only went up like 5psi at most. it does burn oil and has MAJOR blowby! it saturates my air filter with oil thru the crankase vent hose.

ouch, that sounds like you could have busted rings or some scuffs. try a leak down & see if you get air thru the valves or the crank case. no matter what, you have to pull the head to see whats up (about 1.5 hours). maybe you could just re-ring it if you still have good oil pressure.

I know exactly how you feel :( :mad: :crybaby2:

your other option is to look for a good used 2f & do a quick swap, but since you've got the 420 already I think its good used 350 time :smokin:

see...this is my deal....
any money i waste on this 2f...i.e: rebuild wise or piston ring swap....is just that=WASTED. im stumped....i dunno what to do

waste time and $$$ just to limp thru this season...or bust ass and try to swap a 350 in.:confused: :rasta:

I would say bust your ass for the 350 swap. If you can find a complete one for cheap (shouldn't be that hard) it should only take a few long days to swap that thing in if you don't have to move the tranny mounts/ driveshafts.(you might have to though to clear the dist.) then you can wheel your heart out in style :smokin: that is if you have any money left!! LOL :D

youv'e already got most of it done w/ the 420 & saginaw steering.

Have you checked the valve clearance?

I have a nice 3FE for sale. :D

Seriously, ask around about a 2F as you might be able to find one to drop in for cheap, and enjoy the summer wheeling and not paying off rebuild bills!

Tom :usa:

If you did a wet test doesn't that eliminate rings as the prblem? Somebody?

I don't know if you are labeling your "blowby" correctly, i understand what you mean, And you showed it to me and it all made sense but blowby refers to air/oil pasing the rings usually oil passing going into the combustion chamber causing you to burn oil, not get oil to the air filter through the intake, and it also refers to air leaking into the crankcase wich the fuel in that air causes extremely black oil. I don't know if your soaked air cleaner and oily carb is linked to this problem.

You said you had black oil, but the wet test seamed to pass and i don't remember your exhaust seaming really blue, so once again that leads me to the cylender head. But do more investigating then we can search for a cure. whatever it may be.
Keep in mind that a 350 swap takes quite a bit of pocket change here and there, and it may not seem expensive once you get a line on a motor, but remember, your radiator may have to be changed, and also all of the belts, hoses, hardware, steel for fabing stuff, and accesoreis that may need work like carbuerator, distributor(you want hei) water pump, fuel pump, and Paint, haha.
Try and limp through this season, and save up parts and then when september comes round get it awn with the swaping and don't look back to that POS 6.

Ian-

Ian-

ok...well i have a line on something original! a buik 225 v-6. my buddy took it out of his jeep. he had it mated to a sm420...so i know itll work. hes gonna give it to me. ill rebuild it and use my existing alt. and p/s pump. i am still open for ideas...but this doesnt sound like a bad idea.....i know everyone will say..."350 is easier cause its common" or "why not add an extra 2 cylinders" but a buik v6 is original. and his buddy has a buik 225 like it that will smoke up some 35" boggers. so they can have power too. i dunno...im just mind boggled!:rasta:

but a buik v6 is original

What? In a heep...IIRC. Why go through all the work to swap to a 30+ year old motor that was not that great to begin with? I'd still throw a 2F back in it or just roll the bank and go for the 350. Used 2F's are out there for CHEAP and a swap from one 2F to another should take about a day if all goes reasonably well. Plan on 2 times what you orignally think for any swap interms of time and money. The little sh*t ads up REAL quickly... I just went through the 2F to TPI 305 and can't believe how I just nickeled and dimed it to death.

Dig around and you'll come up with a 2F for cheap and throw that in if you want to be budget... If I had 2 cents left after the swap that would be mine...

P.S. I think "blow by" is air/fuel leaking past the rings during compression that tends to overpressurize the crankcase slightly, leading to an oily air mist going through the breather tube to the air cleaner... A stuck PCV can also cause similar symptoms(NOT THE COMPRESSION DEAL, just the oil air cleanre and carb)

With the symtoms you describe, and the results of your wet testing, you more than likely have problems with your cylinder head. If you squirted oil into the low cylinders nad the compression only went up 5psi, you have a minimal ammount of blowby, so I doubt its your rings.
Probably not a head gasket either, normally you will have two cylinders side by side that are low.
Only place left is the head, either it has bad seats, or worn guides.
The a last vavle job I got done on a straight 6, ran around $250, that was for seats, guides, grind, and re-surface.:skull:

Originally posted by DCruiser138
ok...well i have a line on something original! a buik 225 v-6. my buddy took it out of his jeep. he had it mated to a sm420...so i know itll work. hes gonna give it to me. ill rebuild it and use my existing alt. and p/s pump. i am still open for ideas...but this doesnt sound like a bad idea.....i know everyone will say..."350 is easier cause its common" or "why not add an extra 2 cylinders" but a buik v6 is original. and his buddy has a buik 225 like it that will smoke up some 35" boggers. so they can have power too. i dunno...im just mind boggled!:rasta:

Your thinking that is for shure. The buick 225 is a cool motor, especially if you can find a turbo for it, they came stock on some care i can't remember, but they are rare. that i how you get power out of them. The only thing i like about the v-6 is the weight, i am a big fan of the light weight bugy thing and your cruiser may be heavy and some think weight =traction, than tell me why all the light weight rigs like Randy Ellises and Mike Shaffers samurys, and Campbles tube lite weight creations are always in the top ten arca standings. I know they are all good drivers but the rigs say something.
The 225 will not be any cheaper than a 350, and may cause a little more headache cause there are more rare. The small shit like re using your altinator will not get you far. And don;t you already have a chevy PS pump that will go to a 350.
If you plan to re build it yourself it will still cost you near the price of a rebuilt 350 if you do it correctly. I would not do the cheap thing and just hone it and put new bearings and heads on. My brother and dad tried that, and luckily before they finished they found a microscopic whole in a cylyder wall. I told them in the begining to have it magnafluxed by a macnine shop and correctly gone over but they did not want to spend the money. Not to mention the hastle.
Unless the 225 turs out to be a cheap easy rebuild i would find a used cylender head(which is where i think your major problem is) to get you through the season, then go for a 350 which is completly rebuilt, and maybe find a throtle body injection in a junk yard. Do it right no matter what so your Bitchen blue beast with orange shit on it is dope and reliable with the throtle response to get it and break more drivelines.

Take time to figure this out. You can't drive for a month anyway.

Ian-

I laugh, dump a can of Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase and haul ass!

Jeff

Originally posted by dog walker
I laugh, dump a can of Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase and haul ass!

Jeff bingo, i ran my turd all sumemr long with teh monster rod knock and exhaust leak and it did ok, double up ont eh marvel crap and slam the gas. jiMMy

putting up hi-way 50 in 1st gear is not cool. in fact....it fuks the whole trip up! thats just bull crap! i need to get a fix:rasta:

Originally posted by The Jerk
bingo, i ran my turd all sumemr long with teh monster rod knock and exhaust leak and it did ok, double up ont eh marvel crap and slam the gas. jiMMy

BAHAHA A summer?? I am on year two with the "Mystery oil" loving it!! hahaha :laughing: Don't know what the fawk that stuff does.....but it does it well!:D

its not just a rod nok, or exaust leak, its just NO POWER AT ALL. i can barely accelerate from a stop w/o reving to 2500rpm. w/ a redline @ 4000 thats bad. it soaks my air filter with oil, it leaks oil all over itself. it burns oil. it turns the oil black instantly after an iol change...and has no compression. it fries ignition points...but

where can i get this marvel crap? its worth a try:rasta:

Originally posted by DCruiser138
its not just a rod nok, or exaust leak, its just NO POWER AT ALL. i can barely accelerate from a stop w/o reving to 2500rpm. w/ a redline @ 4000 thats bad. it soaks my air filter with oil, it leaks oil all over itself. it burns oil. it turns the oil black instantly after an iol change...and has no compression. it fries ignition points...but

where can i get this marvel crap? its worth a try:rasta: napa