COMPLAINE
04-23-2002, 07:24 PM
It's kinda long but stick with me.
Here is my problem my pinion flange nut is stamped so it can not loosen on its own but some how the pinion flage gets vertical slop(which also ads to rotational slop, but there is suposed to be a little of that), and i am sure it is the whole pinion and flange assembly that moves, it is not wable between the flange and the pinion on the splines. If i tighten the nut it goes away, but it keeps coming back.:mad:
This is an stock LC diff from a 70 ish land cruiser, and the diff is welded. In these difs there are no crush sleves.
Between me and a buddy we have wrecked two diffs from this. His got loose and retightened about 5 times then one day on the freeway his ring gear spun the bolts on the carier. On my old diff this hapened and i tightend it with an impact gun to make sure that it would not happen again like my friends, but that was a mistake because i overtightened it and seized the pinion bearing, end of diff. oops. All of these diffs were old LC stuff and were welded.
Also when i tighten the nut to the stock torque spec of like 175(i can't remember exactly off hand) it makes the pinion spin jerky, like the gears are not meshing correctly.
So here are my questions,
When you tighten the pinion nut does that change the mesh patern, causing the gears to eat themselves like my friends diff did???
Should i just keep retightening it and see what happens, or should i leave it and see what hapens?
I am almost shure this is caused by pinion bearing wear, but the diff does not howl or anything. This only has to last me one season, so i do not want to spend any money, and i am running out of diffs in the parts pile, and all of them seem to do the same thing, this one after one run.
Thanks
Ian-
Here is my problem my pinion flange nut is stamped so it can not loosen on its own but some how the pinion flage gets vertical slop(which also ads to rotational slop, but there is suposed to be a little of that), and i am sure it is the whole pinion and flange assembly that moves, it is not wable between the flange and the pinion on the splines. If i tighten the nut it goes away, but it keeps coming back.:mad:
This is an stock LC diff from a 70 ish land cruiser, and the diff is welded. In these difs there are no crush sleves.
Between me and a buddy we have wrecked two diffs from this. His got loose and retightened about 5 times then one day on the freeway his ring gear spun the bolts on the carier. On my old diff this hapened and i tightend it with an impact gun to make sure that it would not happen again like my friends, but that was a mistake because i overtightened it and seized the pinion bearing, end of diff. oops. All of these diffs were old LC stuff and were welded.
Also when i tighten the nut to the stock torque spec of like 175(i can't remember exactly off hand) it makes the pinion spin jerky, like the gears are not meshing correctly.
So here are my questions,
When you tighten the pinion nut does that change the mesh patern, causing the gears to eat themselves like my friends diff did???
Should i just keep retightening it and see what happens, or should i leave it and see what hapens?
I am almost shure this is caused by pinion bearing wear, but the diff does not howl or anything. This only has to last me one season, so i do not want to spend any money, and i am running out of diffs in the parts pile, and all of them seem to do the same thing, this one after one run.
Thanks
Ian-