Background: 95 D-1 with arbs frt and rear, gbr 4:11s w 33" bfg muds, HD shafts (thanks Keith) rte 3" lift w/ arms and links, and new gbr drive shafts front and rear.

I drive it to work occasionally but mostly a trail rig. The engine has 122k and runs smooth but is gutless. Leaks of course. Compression is good and the same across the board. I feel good about the rest of the rig as most of its new and updated, but the motor has not been touched other than routine maint. should I not worry and drive the shit out of it till it explodes, do a complete rebuild, find a 4.6, a tdi, or pull the heads of redo them and put a new cam in. not after big HP want reliable but strong engine. I plan on keeping this rig for a long time.

Is the 4.6 worth it? or the TDI? Or do you guys think staying close to stock is better. I have a mechanical back ground and was a journeyman mechanic way back in the day, but it was for Porsche/BMW.

Thanks in advance. I know this is elementry for you guys. I'm working up to hardcore.:flipoff2:

If you're a journeyman mechanic for BMW, then find the 6 cyl diesel motor that was offered in Europe. It'll bolt right up to your ZF transmission.

Voila, instant reliability.

Was, not anymore. Been out of the business for about 12 years. Still have connections at the shop. I never thought of the BMW motor though:smokin:

check the ignition system and make sure the advance is working.

Good idea. I'll check it. Thinking my cam is probably toast.

do a complete rebuild - What does that cost... only asking because I am going to sell my girl due to a blow-by issue if a rebuild is too expensive

"not after big HP want reliable but strong engine. I plan on keeping this rig for a long time." - I want the same thing

Good idea. I'll check it. Thinking my cam is probably toast.

Could be, I'm sure mine is, but I'm still driving and wheeling it. At 216K no less!

What's the compression like?

If you still have good compression, or even consistent poor compression, a new cam might be a really good investment. Cams for engines with distributors are pretty cheap.

PT

Unless you can get an awesome deal on the 4.6, I don't think they are worth it. I've got a 4.6 in my truck, but I just build a 4.0 with Mike Noe for a D2. The 4.0 will be makeing just as much power as my 4.6.

Unless your looking to go big HP, it's not really worht the extra costs the 4.6's are bringing. I'd just get a good 4.0 block, hone it, add bearings all the way around, cam, remaned heads, and throw it back together. You'll have less than 2k in it.

Unless you can get an awesome deal on the 4.6, I don't think they are worth it. I've got a 4.6 in my truck, but I just build a 4.0 with Mike Noe for a D2. The 4.0 will be makeing just as much power as my 4.6.

Unless your looking to go big HP, it's not really worht the extra costs the 4.6's are bringing. I'd just get a good 4.0 block, hone it, add bearings all the way around, cam, remaned heads, and throw it back together. You'll have less than 2k in it.

Dammit Dan! It must be Discoweb. I seem to agree with your posts here:flipoff2:

Other than the BMW engine, what else would bolt on to the ZF tranny? Maybe a Mercedes diesel?

Could be, I'm sure mine is, but I'm still driving and wheeling it. At 216K no less!

What's the compression like?

If you still have good compression, or even consistent poor compression, a new cam might be a really good investment. Cams for engines with distributors are pretty cheap.

PT

PT, compression, if I remember right it was 150 with a couple at 145. That was with a good snap on gauge.

I'm starting to think maybe cam and reman the heads call it good for another 120-200 k

Dan thanks for the honesty on the 4.6.

should I not worry and drive the shit out of it till it explodes, do a complete rebuild, find a 4.6, a tdi, or pull the heads of redo them and put a new cam in. not after big HP want reliable but strong engine. I plan on keeping this rig for a long time.Drive it till it drops is always a good option, if it isn't really causing hardship for you now.
If it's highway where it's gutless, in all likelyhood a diesel in it will be gutless as well (that, of course, depends on what gutless means to you).
A rebuild or larger displacement Rover engine will be cheaper up front. A diesel conversion will be better financially the longer you keep it. Personally I prefer diesel off-road, one reason being as long as it's getting air, you can't drown it. Plus I just love the smell of diesel in the morning.

PT, compression, if I remember right it was 150 with a couple at 145. That was with a good snap on gauge.

I'm starting to think maybe cam and reman the heads call it good for another 120-200 k

Dan thanks for the honesty on the 4.6.

Do a leakdown test and then decide if you need to do the heads. If you haven't overheated it, you don't need to do the heads and it probably wouldn't gain you enough to justify the time and expense. The cam OTOH is well worth both the time and expense if the experiences I've had with replacing them on clients trucks is any indication. If well prepared, you could swap the cam in a weekend for less than $500.

As I understand it these engines go through cams. But from what I hear they can be hard on rockers and rocker shafts? I'm hoping I'll be able to just do a cam and lifters and call it good.

As I understand it these engines go through cams. But from what I hear they can be hard on rockers and rocker shafts? I'm hoping I'll be able to just do a cam and lifters and call it good.

The rocker issue was mainly limited to a coupla years, '96 & '97 IIRC. If oil has been changed regularly, rocker shaft wear can be minimized, I've only found a few that needed new shafts, but they all need cams after few miles.

When you pull it apart, inspect the rocker shafts by pulling the arms into the center of the gap between the two rockers and take a look at the grooving on the shaft where the rocker rode. If you don't have upper end knocking, you're probably alright with respect to the rockers. On Discochef's truck, the cam wear was most likely due to the valves that had seized.

PT