now don't whip me with the "search" answer so quickly....:D :D

waterproofing the:
distributor:(
electric connectors
plugs & plug wires
computer:(
coil

can all this be done with dielectric grease/poladyne or other similar products?

how about a breather for the distributor(one tube to the
snorkel airflow & another to a high dry spot inside thw cabin)?

any useful advice for the tank trap???:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Originally posted by Daniel
also run the axle breathers above your head with 1/2 inch tube... and maybe some small filters..that will help...

did that already with the axles and also with the engine, the tranny and the t-case.

what i'm concerned about most, are the electric components.

Originally posted by the frog
now don't whip me with the "search" answer so quickly....:D :D

waterproofing the:
distributor:(
electric connectors
plugs & plug wires
computer:(
coil

can all this be done with dielectric grease/poladyne or other similar products?

how about a breather for the distributor(one tube to the
snorkel airflow & another to a high dry spot inside thw cabin)?

any useful advice for the tank trap???:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Yes Dielectric Grease will do your connectors, plugs. For plug wires use heat shrink marine grade that has glue inside.

The ECU can be protected with a Tupperware container. Run wires thru the side of the container and use watertight bulkhead fittings or silicone to seal up the hole. When you need to be water tight snap on the Tupperware cover and get wet. Use of the cover in dry times can lead to heat build up.

You can expect the water levels at the top truck to cover your hood, 4-5 foot range. I know the tank trap as well as the mud bog, normally the mug bog is 4-5 feet from level ground and is still deep, during TTC the level is 2 feet from the top.

I've got couple of pics at home from the mug bog with a Sammy in it, and it was low. I'll post them tonight.

Joe

You mentioned running a vent into your snorkel. I don't know for sure but you might want to test this. It could cause a venturi and suck through that vent into your snorkel. Should be ok with the distributor but diffs could cause trouble. It might not even happen but check it out first. Wouldn't want to see empty diffs and a full airbox. my old Jeep there was a plugged hole in the top of the distributor. I just glued a fitting into that hole and ran an air line under and up the windhshield pillar. You could just run the vent tube up your snorkel

You could put a second tube on your snorkel and have it route through the tupperware ECU box for cooling. Might get water in there if not careful though. You could snorkel/vent the box with some pvc pipe and put some small fans in there to pull/push air through the box. Sounds easier to just stick the lid on it though. Stick it in a garbage bag and tie it up as a last resort.

Originally posted by FreakAccident
You mentioned running a vent into your snorkel. I don't know for sure but you might want to test this. It could cause a venturi and suck through that vent into your snorkel.

this method is well tested and found sucsseful - the dist. has two
ventilation holes in the bottom. you connect a small flexible tube to one of them, going to a dry high place in the cabin. the second goes from the second hole to a small connecting metal tube, welded onto the snorkel mount on the intake manifold.

when the air filter suck air, it sucks whatever humidity there is in the dist. through the first tube mounted in the cabin, thus keeping the dist dry at all times. also provides a better dist ventilation.

i think anyone wheeling through mud & water should have
such a setup.

Cool. I will have to set mine up like that then.

My favorite overall waterproofing tips are at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/fullsize/ifsjawaterproof.htm

a lot of good over-all stuff, just a sanity check.

Originally posted by bluesman2a
My favorite overall waterproofing tips are at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/fullsize/ifsjawaterproof.htm

a lot of good over-all stuff, just a sanity check.

thanks man. nice and simple stuff - just the right one:) :)

Put your computer in something like a tupperware container with an air tight seal and drill a couple of holes in the side for your wiring and seal the holes with silicon. Another good one for wire connections is to use a hot glue gun. I've found this to work better than silicon. A vented distributor is a good idea.

http://www.suzuki-4wd-club.rockcrawler.com/members/images/snorkel.jpg

I have a petrol engine with basic waterproofing, diff, gearbox tranny breathers, waterproof grease on the sparkplugs and leads, vented dissy, and splash guard in front of te dissy, snorkel. The water got deeper about halfway up the windscreen and it had no problems.

These articles have great tips on waterproofing, water crossings.

part 1 (http://www.rockcrawler.com/departments/landcruiser/whatley/jan0198/jan0198.htm)
part 2 (http://www.rockcrawler.com/departments/landcruiser/whatley/feb0198/index.htm)
part 3 (http://www.rockcrawler.com/departments/landcruiser/whatley/march0198/index.htm)

Morgan

hollister mud pit 1

THESE ARE NOT MINE
pit 2

http://dkg.elmo-the-dog.com/pictures/medium/1019797669.64.12.101.159.jpg

http://dkg.elmo-the-dog.com/pictures/medium/1019797752.64.12.101.159.jpg

Could it be posibul to crack your block by jumping into cold water

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
Could it be posibul to crack your block by jumping into cold water

yeah if the engine is hot but isnt running:flipoff2:

My diffs, tranny, and both tcase breathers all go the the snorkle intake, into a recessed drop to keep it out of the direct airflow, so as not to create a suction effect. The snorkle also has a drop out for removal of any larger particles that may get by and into the cleaner. It's all made out of PVC 6", and the top routes into the cab.

The spark plug wires are shrink tubed over the boots and dielectric grease at the plugs and on the ignition. I have no distibutor, but a trigger wheel for the direct ignition, and it's housing is also plumbed into the snorkle. The ignition coils are waterproof.

My ECM is in a military Ammo box with 2 12v fans and a heat sink to keep it from overheating. The box is also plumbed to the air intake, and the electricals are sealed with silicon. All my power access is on the dash including the fuse blocks (2x6 circuits each) connected to waterproof 60 amp reset-able breaker box to disconnect the entire system.

All electrical components are soldered and shrink tubed. The shrink tubing I use has the glue inside, so it seals nicely. All of the connectors are GM weatherpak's, which have a seal plug in the end. All the connectors have dielectric grease in them as well.

I haven't had any issues with my electrical, but I do have to rebuild my front wheel hubs about 3-4 times per season. They are always a mess. We have a lot of mud and water where I wheel.

Tim.

As tall as your truck is...I can assure you that the water won't be over your hood!

My diffs, tranny, and both tcase breathers all go the the snorkle intake, into a recessed drop to keep it out of the direct airflow, so as not to create a suction effect. The snorkle also has a drop out for removal of any larger particles that may get by and into the cleaner. It's all made out of PVC 6", and the top routes into the cab.

The spark plug wires are shrink tubed over the boots and dielectric grease at the plugs and on the ignition. I have no distibutor, but a trigger wheel for the direct ignition, and it's housing is also plumbed into the snorkle. The ignition coils are waterproof.

My ECM is in a military Ammo box with 2 12v fans and a heat sink to keep it from overheating. The box is also plumbed to the air intake, and the electricals are sealed with silicon. All my power access is on the dash including the fuse blocks (2x6 circuits each) connected to waterproof 60 amp reset-able breaker box to disconnect the entire system.

All electrical components are soldered and shrink tubed. The shrink tubing I use has the glue inside, so it seals nicely. All of the connectors are GM weatherpak's, which have a seal plug in the end. All the connectors have dielectric grease in them as well.

I haven't had any issues with my electrical, but I do have to rebuild my front wheel hubs about 3-4 times per season. They are always a mess. We have a lot of mud and water where I wheel.

Tim.

I'm not trying to play favorites but with the amount of work you've put into waterproofing I hope you excel in the moist :D areas

(you too frog)

Hey Wolf, any chances of getting some pics of your ECM and dash/fuse setup? I'm a sucker for good electrical. It sounds like you got it going on, I'd like to see how you've got it set up.

Originally posted by Old Scout


For plug wires use heat shrink marine grade that has glue inside.



i'd like to buy too sets of 8 each and have'm sent
immediately via UPS/FEDEX/DHL.

who sells them??? summit maybe?

please, need an urgent answer.

Originally posted by the frog


i'd like to buy too sets of 8 each and have'm sent
immediately via UPS/FEDEX/DHL.



that should have been TWO sets, ofcourse.....:emb: :emb:

Most hardware stores should have the self sealing shrink tube.I use this all the time for work.(Wireing in wet locations)This stuff works great.Blazin:rasta:

Originally posted by blazin
Most hardware stores should have the self sealing shrink tube.I use this all the time for work.(Wireing in wet locations)This stuff works great.Blazin:rasta:

that is sweet of you...:D
but, if you look at my LOCATION, you see there Tel-Aviv, ISRAEL.....

have'nt seen that product here, so i'll have to order it UPS
from a dealer who sells outside U.S.

know who and where?????

Originally posted by the frog


i'd like to buy too sets of 8 each and have'm sent
immediately via UPS/FEDEX/DHL.

who sells them??? summit maybe?

please, need an urgent answer.

You make your own. I buy my heat shrink with adhesive from North West Power Products. Here is a plug end before:

After. Look at all the glue oze ! That is what seals out the water!

Where is your computer? I had enough wire in my loom to route mine inside. It's in the glovebox. :D If water get's that high I will have shut it down and bailed out by then. :)

Frog.
I believe your taking the right approch by doing your home work for tank trap. I want to tell you one thing no one else has mentioned yet, If you do get water intrusion into the distributor your engine will begin to miss, run rough and finally stall. when this happens, you need to be positive your submerged exaust system wont allow water to fill up your cylenders. (as happened to Kevin Kaylin and I in TTC 2000). The US government insures this by installing exaust fording kits on hum-vee's. I made one of these for Ferris (pink Hot Rod) from TTC 01. It worked well. I myself took this idea a step further and got a 12volt smog pump from a LT-1 engine and plumbed it in so when my exaust system was compleatly submerged, I had positive air pressure blowing into each manafold producing enough backpressure to keep water out. I ran a hose from my snorkle to the smog pump inlet.
This worked very well.
Also get yourself a marine altanator with a spark arrestor, this provides a tight mesh screen which will eliminate small sticks and grit from getting in the altanator.
This can be the diffrence between wining and loosing. I know. I've spent many wet hours in the trap.:usa: